Monday 2 December 2019

Brandon Peak around to An t'Sais

December 1st and a stellar frosty morning were to coincide so the decision to get up early and head for Mount Brandon was an easy one. Leaving home at 7.45 I was somewhat surprised to find that there was hardly anything in the way of frost but the skies were cloud free so I was hopeful that the mountains would be crisp and clear. The temperature gauge actually dropped to zero as I drove west and when the dawn arrived the mountains looked wonderful in the clear morning sky. The drive from Tralee to Cloghane was simply wonderful and the mix of sea and mountain once again stirred the spirit.
Normally I head up the left side..today on the right
 I parked beside the church and I was on the move by 09.25. I had decided to head for Gerhane via Lough Avoonane  and to perhaps go across the ridge all the way to Masatiompán. I covered the nearly four kilometres along the narrow lane quickly and then turned onto the trail that headed into the wonderful wild. As I headed up to the lake my eye was once again drawn to the east ridge of Brandon Peak. I had never actually been on it and I suddenly resolved that today I would change that. At the lake I turned right and then crossed the fence and took a direct line for the easternmost point of the ridge, where it reached the top of the steep buttress. I know that the true route climbs a rock rib up the buttress but what I really wanted to explore today was the narrow crest that leads directly to the summit.
A steep slog was followed by some scrambling on large rocks and up through some long heather before eventually at around the 600 metre contour I reached the crest. What a joy it was. The clear summits were suddenly being brushed by cloud that rolled over the ridge higher up. While I was a little disappointed, things were still beautiful and if anything the ridge looked even more spectacular as it rose into the mist. The ridge itself is quite easy and more of a walk  really but it does offer some excellent airy positions where the drops to the right are serious. Nothing is compulsory though as the ground on the left is quite amenable for those of a nervous disposition. Soon I was enveloped by the cloud and I finished my climb to the summit. No views and a cold biting breeze made for a swift exit and I headed straight away towards Brandon.


The descent was at times a little slippy on ground and stones made slick by the mist but it was soon on a good track and there follows an easy passage all the way to the final pull to the summit of Mount Brandon. Most of the way there I was treated to misty views to the stunning coastline with its rocky headlands and bays and beyond the glory of the Blaskets could also be seen. Despite (or perhaps because of) the cloud these views seemed precious and I was really so glad I came. I reached the chill and claggy summit after three hours and here I sat in wonderful solitude and enjoyed a welcome bite to eat. Once I was beyond the summit and a couple of hundred metres lower down I was once again treated to those views. This time the rugged north and east side competed with the west and once more I was spoiled for choice. The ridge flew by and it is mostly easy walking all the way as far as the bleak col under Masatiompán. The steep 100 metre pull to the broad top dispelled any chill in the bones and then I started the descent towards Arraglen and one of the few bothies in this country. Once I was back under the cloud this was a pure and easy pleasure. Ahead lay the wonderful An t'Sáis and I decided to include a visit to this glorious viewpoint to round off the day.
Looking west to Mount Eagle and The Blaskets




The rugged east side

Heading for An t'Sáis


Once I reached the metaled road-head I turned right and walked to the crest of the hill and once through a gate I followed the fence uphill to the left. A short boggy traverse was needed to reach the edge of the coum and this I followed to its highest point, all the while enjoying the majesty of the ground as it swept 400 metres to the ocean below. It is a jewel in the coastline and a real bonus so late in the day. I passed over the nearby Faill an t'Sáis (431 metres) and then it is an easy descent to the point where the metaled road reaches the tarmac and once down here I walked the remaining 5 kilometres on quiet roads. The evening light was beautiful and the Faha Ridge at times glowed golden. Across Brandon Bay, Benoskee and more were a constant delight. I made it back to the car just before 4pm. I was soon relaxing into the long drive home and this also was a delight as the russet sky and landscape just got more and more spectacular as dusk approached. To crown it off, the sight of a black silhouette of The reeks stood proud against a deep crimson horizon, was a final treat before the light died. Brandon is always well worth the effort. It had been a great day.

The views kept coming right to the end

24 kilometres..1500 metres ascent and 6 hours 30 minutes.

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