A good deal on a hotel room and a really great (for November) weather forecast saw me head up to Leenaun for a hillwalking adventure. I have been to the area many times and it is without doubt one of the most beautiful areas in the country. I was looking forward to it.
Sunday November 1st;
Coming off nights and facing into a long drive isn't the ideal situation but I felt surprisingly fine after an hour and a half in bed. I gathered all my bits and I was on the road by 10.30. The drive went well and I even got through Galway without too much delay which meant I was getting out of the car between Maum Cross and Maum and ready to walk at 13.25. I had decided to have a short walk on the Maumturks and I would then reach the hotel before dark. The weather was as promised and clear skies and just a light breeze meant conditions were ideal. A few steps from the car and I was walking across the bog that rose gently for a few hundred metres until the steep 500 metre plus climb that rises to the 610metre summit of Corcogemore is reached. Even though the weather had been dry for a while the ground was surprisingly wet, (maybe there had been more rain up here than at home) but things become drier as you get higher. The ground is steep and several bands of wet rock cross the slope and these can offer some nice little scrambles but they can be awkward when descending. I wasn't exactly flying along and my fitness is not as it should be but eventually I reached the point where the ground lays back a bit and after cresting a few rises the true summit is finally reached.
 |
| From the summit-- the glories of Connemara and south Mayo |
 |
| Looking towards Roundstone Bog |
 |
| Towards Lough Corrib |
Starting at lunchtime and it being in November I was acutely aware of the limited light available so I wasn't sure it I would continue to the next peak (Mullagh Glas 621 metres) or return to the car now. It had taken me just over an hour to reach the summit and there was a substantial drop and climb to reach the next one. While I was enjoying the wonderful views I decided that I would try and make the outing worthwhile and I set myself a time limit of 1 hour 40 minutes out and I would turn back once I reached that time no matter where I was. Decision made I wasted no time in setting off along the north-westerly ridge before dropping to the remote feeling gap. Now I was down at 380 metres so I had a steep 240 metre climb to reach the summit. I set off up and made good progress. It felt great to be out and I was enjoying myself immensely. My self imposed time limit arrived and as I wasn't too far from the top I continued up. Once I reached the broad top I wasted no time in setting off on the return. It being an out and back outing it meant I had to re-climb Corcogemore. The 230 metre climb isn't as steep as the one to Mullagh Glas but I set a stiff pace for myself and kept an eye on the time. On the descent back to the car I took care and tried to find the least steep sections and before long I was crossing the easy ground back to the car. I merely put on my normal footwear and drove the 20 kilometres to the hotel in the gathering gloom. It felt great to have managed to squeeze in a good outing on the first day.
 |
| Shadows and light make magic |
Just 8.5 kilometres covered but with a substantial 1000 metres ascent in 3 hours 25 minutes.
Monday 2nd November;
After a big breakfast I emerged from the hotel into a glorious crisp morning. Clear skies and little breeze promised a perfect hillwalking day. I was really looking forward to today. I planned to do a big circuit of Mweelrea and Ben Lugmore from the Delphi Lodge. This offers one of the most spectacular outings in the whole country. I left the car at the resort and after a short walk through the woods I entered the open bog and headed for the first objective of the day Teevnabinnea at 379 metres. Don't let the modest height fool you. It makes for a tough start to the day. Wet mossy bog sucks at your feet and each step seems to take more energy than it should. Any rocky strand is gratefully followed and things get gradually steeper as you gain height. I was cursing my lack of fitness but eventually I reached the broad summit and now new wonderful views can be enjoyed. The blue waters of Killary harbour was lovely and beyond, the Maumturks and the Twelve Bens was a true delight. Thankfully the next couple of kilometres are easy as you gradually drop all the way down to 160 metres under the southeast spur of Mweelrea. Now the views towards Renville and the mouth of the harbour are a delight and a distraction from the steep climb ahead.
 |
| From Teevnabinnea towards Mweelrea |
 |
Towards the Sheefry Hills and Ben Gorm
|
 |
| Looking over Killary to the Inagh Valley. The Maumturks on left The 12 Bens on right |
 |
| Just 400 metres left to go. Up and around the spectacular coum. |
Being down so low I was now faced with a 350 metre climb. An initial steep 100 meters gives way to a more laid back 100 metre stretch across boggy ground before the final steep section eventually saw me on top. A 75 metre drop follows and now I had the long 400 metre slog to reach the highest point in Connaught. The nature of the outing now changes and the wide boggy ground becomes more ridge like and cliffs and big drops give a more high mountain feel. The light breeze now became a wind and occasional wispy cloud skudded across. I was loving it. Unfortunately by the time I finally reached the summit the clouds filled in and obscured the views. I walked on and eventually reached the broad pass before Ben Bury 795metres. The 150 metre climb is gradual enough and I eventually reached the broad stoney top. To my delight the cloud was now breaking and stunning views down towards Doo Lough with Ben Gorm and the Sheefry Hills soaring beyond were thrilling to behold. And that wasn't all. The continuation of the route towards Ben Lugmore that stretches around the giant coum with it's giant cliffs emerged from the cloud beaconed me on. Almost all the climbing was now done for the day and the few short pulls to reach the final spectacular tops passed easily. I was at times grinning like a Cheshire cat as I turned every which way and tried to soak it all in. Once I reached the final top at 790 metres I turned and descended the southeastern spur towards the expanse of bog that stretched towards Delphi and my car. The descend went well until I reached the unavoidable horrid section at the base of the spur that is a mix of long tussocky grass, super wet and boggy holes and long heather. It was exhausting. Thankfully "normal" bog is eventually reached and I returned to my car.
 |
| In cloud and sunshine magic happens |
 |
| Looking to Ben Lugmore |
 |
| Looking down towards Doo Lough |
 |
| Almost back at the car. What a day |
It had been a wonderful outing of 16 kilometres, 1550 metres ascent in 6 hours.
Tuesday 3rd November;
Once again the forecast was great for today and it was calm and a little foggy when I left the hotel. I had decided that I would venture somewhere new today and do a circuit on Maumtrasna. As you drive towards Westport there is a steep wall of mountains on the right. This steep ground rises to a large plateau, the highest point of which is Maumtrasna at 682 metres. I drove until I reached the Glennacally river where I packed and set off into the valley on the northern bank. The going is pretty easy and things were quite atmospheric as I went through the fog. Soon the sunshine was reached and I could enjoy expanding views above the blanket of mist. It was lovely. Where a river came down to reach the main one I turned left and faced into the steep 400 metre climb to reach the plateau above. I could certainly feel the effects of yesterdays effort but I managed slow but steady progress. Eventually the wide easier ground is reached and I could look at the mountains of north Mayo stretching far into the distance. Closer, the Sheefry Hills and Ben Gorm held the eye and across the glen that held the river the plateau continued. Easy ground rose slowly until eventually I had gone around the glen and I could see the summit cairn. Some clouds had built up and a couple of times they swept across plateau and obscured any views. I was glad that they were fleeting as navigating here would require good concentration.
 |
| Above the fog |
 |
| Up to the left and around the high ground beyond |
After the summit the ground dropped gradually until I reached Glannagleragh mountain 617mtrs. Now I could see west over Lough Nafooey and Joyce country. Another drop and Knocklaur at just 518mtrs is reached. The view down into the coum I had just walked around was lovely. It would have been possible to descend from here but I opted to continue and headed for Binn Garbh (or the devils mother) and descend via the spur that stretches north from there. First up came a steep drop to reach the lowest point of the circuit at just 360mtrs. Thankfully the near 300 metres climbing on the other side was less steep and I managed it OK. The two kilometres along the spur was mainly easy walking and any fatigue was compensated by the stunning views down towards Killary harbour and the mountains of yesterdays route. The first 150mtrs of the descent is easy enough but the last 300 mtrs plus is quite steep and a little care is needed. That said it passes quickly enough and soon I reached a track that led easily back to the road about 500mtrs from the car.
I was tired but pleased that I had managed to do another substantial outing. 18 kilometres with over 1200 metres ascent in just over 6 hours. I slept well that night.
Wednesday 4th November;
I was tired this morning. The two big walks of the previous two days meant that my legs ached so I decided that a smaller outing would suffice. One of my favourite walks in the area is to follow the Western Way as far as the foot of Letterbrecaun before climbing that and following the crest of the tops all the way back to Leenane. That would make for a seven hour plus day and would be a step too far today so I decided on an abridged version. I would follow the Way for 4.5 kilometres before turning and climbing Búcán 550mtrs and then continuing to Leenane Hill and return to the village.
There was more cloud about this morning but it was still a lovely morning for a walk. When I started off from the hotel I felt like I had suffered a groin strain and I wondered if I would be able to do anything at all. I hoped things would loosen out once I was moving for a while and thankfully, by the time I was a kilometre into the outing I was feeling good and enjoying my wild and wonderful surroundings. And wonderful they certainly are. After leaving the road the trail rises gently until you can see Killary and the Bencoona mountains and of course the delights of Mweelrea and others draw the eye. Before too long I reached the patch of forestry and here I turned and followed the wire fence up the spur of Búcán. A stiff steady 450 metre climb follows and I was pleased to find that I managed very well. I entered the cloud at around the 500 metre contour and remained in the mist until my final descent. A sudden heavy spit of rain made me hastily don my hard shell and this stayed on for the remainder as well even though it stayed dry.
 |
| Towards Delphi and the Sheefry Hills |
 |
| Towards the open sea and Mweelrea |
 |
| The Bencoonaghs and Twelve Bens |
When I reached the broad summit I didn't delay in continuing towards the Leenaun Hill northwest top. This meant a 50 metre drop and a 60 metre rise, all the while following a fence. The biggest issue was trying to avoid the boggy morasses on the way. Another short drop and a 60 metre pull and I reached Meall Cheo at 578 metres. A short drop and a long drag up boggy ground and I finally reached Leenane Hill at 618mtrs. The cloud had stayed stubbornly down and I had to rely on memory for views so once again I just started the final descent immediately. The route follows the north spur and while steep in places it is generally easy and the ground isn't tboggy. Soon enough I was down by the sheep fold and after crossing the river (could be tricky after rain) I followed the track to the road and then through the village to reach the hotel. It had been just the ticket to loosen the legs and I walked into the hotel at lunchtime after covering 13 kilometres, climbed over 700 metres in a little less than four hours. A leisurely drive and wander around the bustling town of Westport rounded off the afternoon.
 |
| Emerging from the cloud and looking down to Leenane |
Thursday 5th November;
I was heading home today. Wanting to get a decent walk in today as well, I was packed up and on the move after 9am. Unfortunately there was even more cloud around this morning and I could see some showers on the hills as I drove into the stunning Inagh Valley. I wanted to do something on the 12 Bens but most of the horseshoe outings big days and I wasn't sure I'd be up to it so I decided that an up and back of Benbaun (729mtrs) would fit the bill. I parked alongside a derelict cottage and climbed the steep 400 metres to reach Ben Charrach on the northwest spur of Benbaun. The wind was fairly strong and cold but thankfully the rain was staying away. Another plus was that I was feeling quite strong and considering extending the outing and doing the Glencorbet Horseshoe. The view across the valley towards Ben Corr and Ben Dubh was great as the cloud just touched the tops and looking into the pass at Maimean these rugged wild mountains looked great.
 |
| Ben Corr and Ben Dubh |
 |
| Looking into the Inagh Vallet. The Maumturks on the left |
 |
| Up on the spur Benbaun in the cloud. Wild and wonderful |
Unfortunately just when I began to hope that the day would clear up the cloud dropped down to just 500mtrs and some rain arrived. I completed the steep 250mtrs climb to the summit and contemplated what to do next. I was feeling very good but with the weather deteriorating I reluctantly retreated back down the way I came up. When I got back below the clouds at the start of the spur I decided to drop into Glencorbet and follow the track in the bottom back to the road and my car. This was a nice little diversion and added a few easy kilometres to the trip. I arrived back at the car just 4 hours 5 mins after setting off and just 13 kilometres with 800 metres ascent. I felt content, especially as just when I finished changing and got into the car, serious rain arrived and the miserable weather lasted until I reached Galway.
 |
| Cloud and a little rain arrive |
 |
| Down in Glencorbet |
It had been a great trip. Comfortable accommodation, generally great weather and 5 decent hikes was a real bonus this time of year. Connemara and south Mayo is truly hillwalking heaven.
