A few weeks after coming home from my botched trip to do the GR54, I was browsing on my computer and on a whim I looked at the airline ticket prices for the following week from Dublin to Lyon. Expecting them to be very expensive I was somewhat taken aback to find that they were pretty cheap. Suddenly, out of nowhere, my thoughts began to solidify. A vague itch at the back of my head came to the fore and I actually started to think about returning to the mountains. When I told Margaret that the tickets were not expensive I got an immediate reply "book it". I pondered and hummed and hawed for a while but my heart was already made up. I had to check with work the following morning to confirm that I could get the required time off, and when I got the okay, I booked my flights straight away.
Thursday July 16th;
The flight left Dublin just after six and before long I was exiting Lyon airport and boarding my bus to Grenoble. It all felt so familiar. This time around I was heading to Monetier le Bains where I had finished last month and I had secured a ride there using Blablacar. I had a couple of hours to kill before my drive so I was able to get gas and a bite to eat before enjoying the long drive through villages I had passed through the last time. I eventually arrived in Monetier at 16.30 and shortly after that I was all set up in the nearby campsite. That evening there was some rain and after dark a couple of brief thunderstorms seemed to say welcome back.
Friday July 17th;
I awoke to a calm, bright, sunny morning and the weather forecast was great for the next week. I was feeling great as I set off on the first leg to Vallouise. This time around I had my own phone and paper maps to guide me. I also didn't have to worry about the higher passes being closed due to snow. It was warm rather than hot as I left the village and began the long climb towards Col de l'Eychauda 2425mtrs, nearly 1000 metres higher up. I was a little apprehensive as my right calf was still tight and I wondered how it would hold up to the rigors of what lay ahead. For now though I was feeling strong and enjoying the pretty gentle ascent and of course my wonderful surroundings. I had feared that most of the wildflowers would be gone in the month since I had been here but a whole new batch were decorating the meadows and butterflies and wildlife abounded.
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| Leaving Moneteir le Bains |
After rising up through the forest eventually open ground is reached at Bachas and here the ski industry intrudes on the landscape. In the Cicerone guidebook (conveniently forgotten and left at home) it says that this section of the GR is marred and spoiled by the extensive ski area to be found here. It certainly was jarring to reach it, and it certainly was a bit of an eyesore, but it was easy to turn the eye to the wider landscape and enjoy those views. Besides, the sun was shining, I was feeling good and the body was working well. It felt great to be back in the mountains. Higher up and nearer the col there were several machines working burying pipes and it made for a noisy passage, but thankfully it didn't take too long to pass them. After passing a drained reservoir I reached the col. I had expected that the pistes and lifts would also be on the other side but no. What lay in front was a beautiful landscape, where alpine meadows were surrounded by gorgeous peaks and the way ahead eventually dropped into a deep valley that would eventually lead to Vallouise.
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| Under snow I guess it would look better |
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| Leaving the ski area behind. Bivi on the right? |
I sat for a while and enjoyed the scene before me and relaxed in the knowledge that all the climbing was done for the day. Next came a gentle drop to a marshy area where there were several superb places where it would be possible to bivouac. I was thinking back to my previous visit when I had planned to stay in Monetier (even though it would only have been a four hour day). Had I known about this place, it would have made for a fuller day, and as Col de l'Alp Martin was closed at that time, it would have made the logistics of avoiding it much easier. Anyway, the trail dropped down further and passed a split in the route where a variation that came via Lac de l'Eychauda joined it. Looking up along that route, it looked to pass through wild and rugged scenery, and if back there again, I think I might prefer that way. Not long after that I reached the busy roadhead and parking area at Chambran. There was a rustic eatery here, busy serving lunch, and just beyond a tiny little chapel complete with a bell tower (which of course I rang). A walk of a kilometre or so along on a quiet lane ensued before the trail dropped into the woods again. It touches the road again a couple of times, but mostly it stayed in the woods until it reached Saint Antoine and thereafter it sticks close to the river (La Gyronde) until you arrive at Vallouise.
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| The alternative route for the GR...Looks interesting |
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| Towards Mont Pelvoux? |
It felt hot in the busy village and I was eager to get settled so I headed towards the campsite at Les Chambonnettes. Much to my disappointment they were full and they told me that the other campsite nearby was a private one for members only. Bugger! I went there anyway and there was a woman directing a couple of cars into the site and I asked her if it was possible to stay. Much to my relief she said yes and that I could put my tent anywhere. It was just gone 4pm and the office didn't open until six so I settled in to wait. Over the course of the next hour about 5 people approached and asked if I had permission to be there. I was getting a bit annoyed to be honest and when a woman came and told me that she would be in the office at six but I should move my stuff to a different place I was starting to think about abandoning the whole idea. I found a nice quiet spot near a fence and started getting the tent up and settling in. Next thing a guy arrived on a bicycle and rather gruffly told me I had to go to the office now and pay. Rather bizarrely the office was in two parts and two women took my details ( email, address and strangely my age) but they wouldn't take the money. I had to move three steps to the "other office" and pay there. I returned to my tent and chilled. At least I did when I wasn't telling the other few people that came, yes I had permission and yes I had paid.
Despite the campsite it felt like a good start to the trip. 23.5 kilometres...1000mtrs ascent...1300 descent in 7 hours 10 minutes.
Saturday July 18th;
I was somewhat apprehensive about today. It promised to be a big one and would provide a good test of my fitness. With that in mind I was on my way out of the still sleeping campsite by 7am. It was a beautiful weather morning. Calm and sunny and not too warm. The first five kilometres rises gently by river and it is possible to get a bus to cover this section. I didn't really consider this as I wanted to walk the full section. It is actually quite a pleasant walk and the majority of it is away from the road. Shortly after leaving the campsite there are a few good spots to bivi near the river and a couple of kilometres further on a busy rustic campground is situated at Pont de Places. I had considered going there the previous evening but it was pretty packed and I was glad that I didn't. Further on the trail steepens as it cuts through where the road switchbacks. Not long after that you reach the first of two car parks, and on a sunny Saturday morning, in high season, it was no surprise to find it was quite busy. Now things open out and a wide stony basin is reached. The valley splits and straight ahead a beautiful cirque of alpine peaks, rising to over 3500 metres is quite the sight. Our route crosses the basin to the south and enters a beautiful, long, initially steep sided, valley that broadens further on and eventually leads to Col de l'Aup Martin, which at 2761 metres is the highest point on the whole route.
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| Wild and wonderful |
When you reach the pastoral cabin "Caband du Jas Lacroix" at 1954 metres the valley widens out and the Col de l'Aup Martin looms ahead. Well I say looms, but it is still a few kilometres away, but it looks like a proper alpine pass. The trail continues easily until at Plle it turns south and gains a swift 100 metres. I decided to stop here for a bite to eat and enjoy the delights of being in the high mountains. The trail continues easily for another kilometre before it leaves the alpine pastures and climbs steeply up a rough spur. At around the 2500 metre contour it crosses a gully/ravine and traverses across a moonscape of shale, that becomes steeper the farther you go. Eventually you reach a rock outcrop and after passing this the trail zig zags until you finally reach the col. There was a stiff breeze blowing but what a great place to stop and take it all in. The nearby Cretes de l'Aup Martin and the Points de Rognoux looked spectacular with their fantastically corrugated and folded rock strata. I was pretty tired but pleased that I had coped with the altitude quite well.
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| Entering the valley that eventually leads to the Col |
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| Cabane du Jas Lacroix |
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| Towards Pics du Loup |
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| The Col du l'Aup Martin. A real high mountain feel. |
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| Fantastic corrugated rock |
I didn't delay too long before setting off on the short but pleasant traverse to Pas de la Cavale, which at 2735 metres, was just thirty metres lower. The path crosses the steep slope and I could easily understand why this route is closed when covered in snow. It passed easily today though and once at the pass I could see down into the Champoleon valley where Refuge du pre la Chaumette, my target for the day, rested almost 1000 metres below me. The descent was fairly straightforward. Even though it wound its way down through some steep ground, the trail was good and secure. There was a pastoral cabin in a fairly level area below but it seemed to take an age to reach it. Another drop through some woodland and I finally reached the refuge. I wasted no time in enquiring if I could use the bivouac area just behind the refuge and after a celebratory pint I went and secured a good spot. I was settled for the day. I relaxed away the long evening, napping and re-hydrating and recovering from what had been a pretty big day.
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| Le Sirac..the star of the show for the next couple of days |
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| The view from the bivouac. |
24.5 kilometres...1740mtrs ascent...1120 descent in 8 hours 30 mins. I was pleased.
Sunday 19th July;
I was a little apprehensive that the big day yesterday would would have taken a big toll, but I was delighted to find little in the way of after effects. I was feeling good and after a good sleep I was sorted and on the move at 7am. Most were still in their tents but I could see several others ahead of me on the trail. Things start easily enough as the trail rises through the open slopes that soon turn and enter the beautiful Vallon de la Pierre. This valley is circled my 3000mtr plus peaks and it has a wild and remote feel to it. Once you reach the 2100mtr contour the trail turns west and chicanes up through the steeper ground that leads to the first of three cols that are crossed today, Col de la Vallette, which lay at 2671mtrs. The going wasn't as tough as yesterday and it wasn't too long before I reached it. A steep descent down a shale slope is followed by a straightforward crossing of a grassy plateau which would offer plenty of good bivi opportunities. The next col (Col de Gouiran 2591 metres) lies just ahead and requires just a 100mtr climb to reach it. The weather was once again fantastic. There was a great sense of anticipation each time I approached a col and I looked forward to seeing what new wonders lay ahead.
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| Entering Vallon de la Pierre |
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| The back of Vallon de la Pierre..the route heads to the left out of view. |
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| Opening up higher up |
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| Heading to the col. the trail traverses the slope on the left. |
I should say a word about the stunning Le Sirac 3441mtrs. It is the most southerly major peak of the Ecrins and it looms large throughout most of today's stage. It is a large complex mountain with glaciers on its south-eastern and western sides. There are five ridges that soar to its summit and is a popular choice for mountaineers. Anyway back to today. The initial drop from Col de Gouiran isn't too bad as it heads towards Col de Vallonpierre at 2607mtrs. You traverse easily above Vallon Plat, a grassy mini plateau where good bivi spots can be found before the trail winds its way up the steep shale slope and you finally reach the col. I rested here a while and delighted in the fact that the climbing was once again done for the day. To the north the mountains stretched into the distance, dominated by Les Rouis, 3589mtrs, which seemed to have fairly large glaciers on it. The Refuge de Vallonpierre could be seen some 350mtrs lower down just behind a small lake. It didn't take long to reach it and given its beautiful situation and outlook, it was easy to understand why it was so busy. I didn't linger and just continued on my way. The trail drops steeply and eventually reaches a junction of valleys when a whole new series of mountains come into view. It is a truly inspiring landscape.
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| Looking to Col de Gouiran |
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| Towards Col de Vallonpierre |
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| Le Sirac looms above the Col |
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| Refuge de Vallonpierre sitting pretty above the valley |
The trail continues near the La Severaisse river until it reaches Le Clot (where there is another junction of valleys) and then it turns west and enters the Valley de la Severaisse. I hadn't really set a definite end point today but the village of La Chapelle seemed like a good choice. That said, the signposts now suggested that it was still a few hours away and, as I had been on the go for seven hours by now, I reckoned an earlier finish might be a better idea. The trail crossed the river and before long I came to a nice refuge situated in a shady place near the river. I saw that there were several spots for tents just behind it so I stopped and asked if I could bivi there and I got the okay. As it was only 14.30 I had the option to continue, but it felt like I had made a good effort today so I was content. After sorting out my spot, I used the excellent (and hot) free solar shower (which I shared with a hen) and enjoyed a very tasty lunch. The guardienne was lovely and let me charge everything up. All in all a place I would highly recommend.
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| New vistas on the descent |
It had been a wonderful and spectacular day. 18 kilometres...1150 metres ascent...1550 metres descent in 7 hours 25mins.
Monday July 20th;
Another wonderful weather morning arrived and I was up and at em at 7am. As starts go this is as easy as it gets. After a gentle rise the trail contours above the river and descends through the woods until after an hour it crosses to the other side at Les Bouleoux where there is a campsite. An hour later I reached the village of La Chapelle which had shops and several campsites. I didn't stop as I would going as far as another village (Villar Loubiere) where I hoped to stock up with bread, cereal and cheese, before embarking on the next few days in the mountains. Another fifty minutes and I reached the village. Bollocks to it. It was just a tiny hamlet and there wasn't a shop to be found. I had food for a couple of days, but I had four days hiking ahead. I now hoped that I could buy some stuff at the Refuge des Souffles. The refuge sits at 1968 metres which meant there was a 900 metre climb to reach it. There were several others leaving the village so I stopped and had a wee bite to eat and a drink before setting off up the slope. I normally visit these places in the off season, and one of the best things for me it the sense of solitude I normally can enjoy on my trips. Visiting in high season is a totally different experience and periods of solitude are rare as the trails are so busy. This morning was no exception and it wasn't long before a group of about 10 teenagers passed me out chattering excitedly. Of course they soon stopped for a break and muggins here plodded up to them. After passing the first few, the rest took off again so I was stuck in the middle. This happened a few times. Thankfully they took a longer break and I managed to leave them behind and I was able to enjoy relative quietude.
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| Heading down towards La Chapelle |
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| Finally in the sunshine and the views start opening up. |
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| Looking across at Col de Vaurze |
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| Refuge de Souffles sitting at the edge of the woods |
The going is straightforward as the trail winds its way up through the woods. It didn't take too long to reach the refuge which was situated on a clearing just above the forest. As it was 12.40 I decided that a spot of lunch was called for so I ordered myself an omelette and a beer. I had been on the move for 5 hours forty and, as there was also a bivi place here, I thought I might stop for the day. It was quite a busy place and lots milled about and enjoyed the wonderful views to the wall of 3000mtr mountains that backed the valley. The next col, Col de la Vaurze (2500mtrs) could be seen across the valley. I could see the trail as it left the refuge and contoured across the steep headwall and entered a basin before climbing to the col. My lunch arrived and it was underwhelming to say the least. When I asked for an omelette I expected something to accompany it, like a bit of bread, but nothing. If there were three eggs used, they were small ones. I was doubly disappointed when I enquired if I could purchase any food to take away, and I got a flat no. After "lunch" I checked out the bivi area, and it didn't appeal, so I decided to prolong my day and head towards Col le la Vaurze and hope to find a place to bivi near there.
Outside the refuge there was a viewing scope and I had taken the opportunity to scan the ground before the col. There were two possibilities for a bivi that I could see. One just below the col, and another at a spur about 250mtrs below the col. Below that there was a pretty flat basin but that was home to a large flock of sheep. So I set off along the trail and enjoyed the nice level start. At a deep rocky gully the trail climbing steeply for over a hundred metres until it was finally able to get across. Here I took the opportunity to fill all my water bottles as there didn't appear to be any source further on. I could certainly feel the drag of the extra four kilos but I was happy in the knowledge that I had plenty water for the rest of the day and tomorrow morning. I wasn't exactly flying along but eventually I reached the spur and I was delighted to find that there was space for a few tents. I had my home for the night. It was a delightful spot. Steep drops on either side and stunning views to the nearby Pic des Souffles and Cime d'Orgiers and further afield an alpine wonderland stretched into the distance. I didn't have the place to myself for long however, and over the afternoon, four other tents found a spot. Others continued to nearer the col. I must confess that I was feeling a bit fretful about the food situation. I really hoped that the village of Le Desert would have a shop, as it was the last possible place before the end. I had enquired at the refuge and asked the couples camping nearby but they didn't know, so I wasn't optimistic about my chances to stock up. I reckoned that if the worst came to be then I could perhaps get taxi to a village where I could buy food and return and start again. I cursed myself as a fool for not getting supplies in La Chapelle when I had the chance. Still it was done now and I would just have to wait and see what tomorrow would bring.
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| Not a bad spot to spend the night |
It had taken me 5 hours 40 minutes to reach the refuge and a further 1 hour 40 mins to reach the bivi. So all in all a total of 22.5 kilometres...1400 metres ascent...600mtrs descent in 7 hours 20 mins. I was well pleased.
Tuesday July 21st;
You would think that it should get a bit chilly camping up at over 2250mtrs but it was still warm enough for just a t-shirt this morning. I was on the move again by 06.40. There is something wonderful in exiting the tent high in the mountains, and just sitting and watching the dawn light on the mountains. I was the first up and I enjoyed a moments peace before packing up and setting off. Camping so high meant it was just a little over 200 climb to reach the col. Once again new sights greeted me and I paused to try and take it in. Le Desert could be seen nestling in the deep valley some 1200 metres below and even from this remove I could see it was very small. My hopes of there being a shop seemed slim. The descent is pretty steep and unrelenting. The valley floor seemed to take an age to get any nearer but eventually progress was made and I was approaching the village. The nearer I got the more hopeless it seemed, as it really was a small place. I climbed up the slope from the river and entered the ramshackle collection of small barns and stone houses. I immediately saw a little collection of signs for various enterprises and one of them was for a café/bar and restaurant advertised as open...hope soared and I made for it. It was indeed open, and when I entered, I was thrilled to see that it stocked various bars and snacks and fruit and bread. I was sorted. After purchasing all I needed I enjoyed a coffee and croissant before setting off towards Col de Cote Belle 2290mtrs.
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| Beautiful dawn |
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| From the col Le Desert looks so small |
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| Views from the col |
It had taken me two and a half hours to reach Le Desert and I had enjoyed a half hour stay there, so I was well refreshed when I started out on the long drag to the col. In the glorious sunshine I revelled in the stunning landscape and I was in great spirits as I trudged upward. The trail traverses above the Ruisseau de la Laisse torrent until it has to rise above the nose of a spur to reach the grassy slopes above. After this the trail does a long out and back traverse to reach the col. Once again the climbing was done for the day and now all I had to do was descend to the Haute Vallee de Beranger and find somewhere to stay for the night. Not long into the descent the trail goes through an area called Les Orgues which was a fantastic jumble of shards of rock that brought to mind the beautiful summit of the Glyders in Snowdonia. One thing to note is that there was no water source on the way up to the col and there was none all the way down. I was delighted when I finally crossed the torrent that had cascaded down the ravine to my left since the col and I was able to enjoy a cool drink.
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| Looking up to Col de Cote Belle |
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| Looking back to Col de Vaurze |
The chances of finding anywhere to camp seemed minimal as a huge circle of mountains formed a wall of rock that came down to a was a wide area of scree and scrub that eventually narrowed into the forested valley. Once I reached the woods I decided that I would go as far as the village of Valsenestra and see what I could find there. On the way I saw a sign for a bivouac area and knew I was sorted. I soon reached the place, that was just a flat(ish) cleared area in the woods beside the track. It was about 80 metres by forty in size and there was already several tents there. I found a spot towards the back left and settled in for the day. It was just after 2pm so I had plenty time to relax and recover. The only water source was the nearby river and I also used this to give myself a stand up wash. In the evening I walked into the absolutely charming little village that had a gite and a lovely collection of stone buildings. The bivi area got quite busy as the evening wore on and by nightfall I counted thirty plus tents in the area. Crowded to say the least but to be fair it was also quiet.
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| Looking towards Col de La Muzelle |
Today I covered 18 kilometres...1250mtrs ascent...a hefty 2150mtrs descent in 7 hours 30mins.
Wednesday July 22nd;
Wow the penultimate day had arrived already. I was on the move out of a still sleeping bivi area at 06.45 and heading for the first col of the day, Col de la Muzelle at 2613 metres. All during the descent of the day before you could see the col ahead. It looked to have a very steep exit, but I knew that when you are looking at something head on, it generally looks steeper than it actually is. The going is easy as the trail follows a forest road before it rises gradually. After passing a shepherds hut you enter the valley that leads to the col. There was a fairly large flock of sheep being herded by the their guard dogs (patou). These wonderful creatures are at first glance fearsome but once they know that you are no threat they generally they just bark and maybe follow you until you are away from the sheep. Anyway I should also add a note about the water in the river. As I said earlier the only water source for the busy bivi area was the river. I hadn't realised that there was a large flock of sheep that obviously stayed about three kilometres above the bivi. As I was taking a drink in the morning I noticed several "swimming beasties" in the water. If I was heading to that area again I would instead make the effort to get my water in the village. Also, the bivi area is obviously a busy place and that brings its own issues with hygiene etc. I would suggest that a serviced site with toilet facilities would benefit the area as a whole.
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| Rising above the valley |
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| Yesterdays descent |
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| Final slopes to Col de la Muzelle |
After the hut the trail rises up the left side of the valley and the scenery gets even more spectacular. The view to yesterdays route is lovely and across the valley the succession of 3000mtr plus peaks, crowned by Roche de la Muzelle 3458mtrs, is a delight. As the valley narrows the focus is drawn to the col ahead. Now I could see where the trail rose up through a steep cone of shale that provides access to the narrow col. When I finally reached the shale the route had a real high mountain feel about it as you become enclosed by rock and your focus is forced to the col. There were some people already there when I finally crested the col, and as I said, it was quite narrow and there wasn't much room to spread out. I didn't delay too long before heading down towards the Refuge de la Muzelle( 2134mtrs) some 500mtrs lower down. The descent was fairly straightforward except for one patch of snow that was surprisingly icy and required a little care, if a slide into the stream was to be avoided, After that the trail dropped to reach the pretty Lac de la Muzelle above which the refuge sat. It was just after noon when I arrived and I was getting quite peckish so I went and asked at the kiosk if I could have an omelette. I was disappointed to learn that food service wouldn't start until 1pm. I asked him if he had anythign to eat now and he pointed to a pie in the fridge that had potatoes, ham cheese and eggs. It sounded good to me, so I ordered some, plus a beer. When it arrived at my table I was surprised and delighted to see such a substantial wedge on the plate with a salad accompaniment. It was delicious.
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| Looking towards Refuge de la Muzelle just beyond the lake |
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| Down at the lake looking back |
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| Looking across towards La Meije |
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| Journeys end from the Col |
Initially the descent is pretty straightforward and not far below the crest I passed an area where multiple excellent spots to pitch a tent could be seen ( I later learned that this area too is known as a bivi spot). There was even an excellent water source nearby. After this the trail passes through some steep ground, and some sections require a little care, as you have to scramble down through the rock. All the while I was looking down to the beautiful lake, trying to discern where the bivi place was. I must say it didn't look altogether promising as the surrounds of the lake were either rocky or on a slope. After the steepest of the trail is over there is a sting in the tail when you have to climb almost 100 metres to get across a ravine. After this the going is easier and before long I was nearing the lake. Now I could see the bivi area and unfortunately the slope was just as it appeared from above and from what I could see most spots were on a 15% slope. I dropped the bag, and after a fair bit of searching, I settled for a spot quite near the trail that on first glance didn't seem too promising, but actually offered a flat sleeping patch just big enough. The area was quite busy with day trippers and families who had climbed up from the valley to enjoy this wonderful setting. It was just after 3pm, so I settled in the shade of a tree, and waited until 7pm before putting up the tent. Thankfully the sun had gone behind the mountains and it became cooler in the evening. More people arrived to camp in the evening (indeed some after dark) but everyone was well behaved and I enjoyed a good sleep.
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| Lac le Vauvitel |
It had been a substantial day...17 kilometres...1700mtrs ascent...1500mtrs descent in 8 hours 20 mins.
Thursday July 23rd;
My last day in the mountains had arrived and it was another perfect weather day. I was on the move early once again and I left the sleeping campsite at 7am. The plan for today was simple, get to Bourg d'Oisans. After everything I'd done the previous 6 days, today was an easy one. All downhill and only about 12 kilometres meant I should reach the town in a few hours. In a way I was a little disappointed that the day wouldn't be bigger but also I was relieved to be nearing the end. After winding it's way through the rocky ground on the northern side of the lake the trail dropped into the woods and gradually descended until it was near the torrent. At a bridge there was a sign that said the GR was closed so after a look at the map I followed the trail that headed to Les Escalons, from where I could easily rejoin the GR. It didn't take long to reach it and soon I was following the trail that ran alongside the substantial river Le Vénèon, which has its source in the glaciers in the heart of the park, near Bar d'Ecrins.
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| Beautiful near the river |
I hadn't really known what to expect from today but I found myself enjoying it greatly and in weather such as this, walking alongside a river with magnificent views all around, isn't a bad way to spend a morning. After passing a place where the river had washed away the road I soon reached a lovely small lake nestling in woodland that was a lovely spot to relax and have a late breakfast. By now there were more people about and it only got busier as I neared the town. Finally the trail gave way to tarred roads and before long I was entering the very busy town. I say town, but it is really just a village. There was a great buzz about the place and the streets were teaming with people. As the Tour de France was arriving the following day, for a two day visit, the place was particularly manic. Every conceivable place where camper vans and motor homes could fit, was full. The streets were full of cyclists who I guess were trying to fit some exercise in before seeing the real deal the following day. I, never being really comfortable in crowded places, made a bee line for the bus station and I just had time to eat a sandwich before the bus to Grenoble arrived. I was even settled into my hotel by 1pm.
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| Lake near Bourg d'Oisans |
So the final day (morning really) was just over 12 kilometres...100 metres ascent...850 metres down in a very leisurely 4 hours.
So overall, over the 7 days I covered a total of 136 kilometres and climbed 8400 metres. It felt like a solid outing, especially since the last day was so easy.
So the saga of the GR 54 had come to the end. After my abortive first attempt, I did some soul searching about my preparation and mindset, and acknowledged how much I had strayed from the basic principles, that had stood me in good stead for decades. I also had to acknowledge how much, mentally, my failings on the first trip had affected me. Now I know that things evolve over time but I used to be rather good at these "adventures " but now I was questioning myself in all sorts of ways. Now that I'm in my 65th year, should I be looking at other things to do?. Well this trip answered most of my questions and helped massively to straighten out my thinking. It also did wonders for my waning confidence. The relief that I felt when I booked the flights for the return trip, the joy I was feeling when I walked out of Monetier the first morning , seemed to prove that I had made the right decision. The way that I felt each day and how well the body recovered, was all a boost for my confidence going forward. I still have stuff to work out. Like my worry on the first trip about snow on the cols, despite carrying crampons. I think I need to get back to doing some mountaineering again soon. I found myself looking up at some of the peaks and initially thinking they looked impossible before catching myself, and reminding myself, that I had climbed plenty like them in the not too distant past. So I guess the soul searching continues but there is also a new determination and confidence.
As for the GR 54. It is glorious. Many guide books say it is the second most difficult of all the GRs but I would say that is stretching things a little. If starting in Bourg d'Oisans the first four stages are, while undeniably beautiful, reasonably tame difficulty wise. Certainly the next two are challenging but without snow they are reasonably straightforward. The climb to Col de Vallon requires care and the descent to Lac Le Vauvitel likewise. The scenery is truly wonderful and I think that the Ecrins has to be one of the most beautiful areas of the Alps. I think it is an area that I will return to again, though maybe not in high season.
