Camping for a few days in Cahersiveen

 I took the plunge and booked a week off work for the third week in May and set off west to one of my favourite campsites, Mannix Point in Cahersiveen. I booked in for four nights and I must say I was looking forward to it. All I needed now was some decent weather. Well as luck would have it the forecast was rubbish and stiff winds and mostly rainy days were to be my lot.

Tuesday May 19th;

My plan was simple, pack in some cycling, running, hiking and fishing. Basically all I like to do. My first order of business was to get some bait for the fishing so I stopped in Rossbeigh and dug some lugworm and collected a good few peeler crabs, which when added to the frozen bait I already had meant I was set fair. I even managed to get my digging done in between squally showers so I was happy and relieved as I drove through the rain to Cahersiveen. Now all I had to do was get the tent up. Once again I was lucky and the rain stayed away until about five minutes after I had everything done. Result. It was now after 3pm so I didn't really have the time or the inclination to do anything other than a run. I have been nursing a knee injury to my right knee. I don't know if it is a hamstring or ligament problem but it has definitely curtailed my activities of late. I had taken a fortnight off running until a few days before I left and the few runs I had done went well, much to my relief. I didn't want to overdo it so I decided that a gentle 8 or 10 kilometres would be fine. I set off into town and crossed the bridge and headed towards White Strand. Not that I had any intention of going that far, By the time I reached the junction above the playing field I had covered four kilometres so I reckoned a kilometre further would be enough. As it turned out I went as far as the spectacular stone ringforts and turned for home from there. I was well pleased with myself to have done a reasonable 12 kilometres on day one and thankfully the knee wasn't too sore afterwards. The weather was showing some signs of improvement so I headed to the lovely beach at Reenroe to try a spot of surfcasting. It was high tide by the time I got there and the big swell was crashing right to the back of the beach so I stayed on a grassy platform near the road and fished hard for over two hours without any success. At least it stayed dry while I was at the beach but it rained heavily into the night and the wind ensured that the tent was given a stiff test. Still the forecast for tomorrow was a little better.

Wednesday May 20th;

After a windy rainy night it was a relief to wake this morning and find that at least the rain had stopped. There was more of a breeze than I would have liked and the cloud still hung low on the hills. The plan for today was to go for a cycle and the route I had planned wouldn't be too big but would be about 70 kilometres and a reasonable amount of climbing but would hopefully offer amazing views, especially in the St Finnans Bay area.

I set off through the town shortly after 10am and I must say I was regretting not wearing more clothes. I just had a t-shirt inside my rainproof jacket and a long sleeve top would have been better. I reckon it was struggling to hit 10 degrees. I hoped that the long drag to the pass at Coar would warm me up and it did to a degree but the long descent on the far side was again chilly. Once I reached the Waterville road I turned into the breeze. It was about 16 kilometres to reach the ring of Kerry road so I didn't push too hard and stayed in a gear I could easily manage. Of greater concern was the fact that there seemed to be a mist coming inland from the sea and by the time I reached Dromid it was drizzling steadily and this soon turned to rain  Now I really regretted not having that extra layer on.  Add to this the fact that the cloud was now very low so this meant my hoped for views around St Finnans Bay  wouldn't be seen so it was an easy decision to cut the outing short. Instead I cycled most of the way to Ballinskelligs and then turned towards Cahersiveen. It ended up being a 55 kilometre outing so it wasn't too bad. I arrived back at the campsite chilled and soaked but the warm shower and fresh clothes made me feel good again. A decent lunch in the excellent kitchen of the site and I was ready for the rest of the day.

The weather improved and the rain stopped and patches of blue sky appeared as I drove towards Waterville where I planned to fish the golf course beach for a few hours. Conditions looked excellent and the weather was actually quite nice but I didn't get a nibble. Disappointed, I packed up at 6pm and decided to try Reenard Pier on my way back. The wind out at the end of the pier was really strong and when you add in the return of the rain I decided to retreat back to my tent. Once again it rained and blowed into the night.

Thursday May 21st;

After a fairly wild and wet night I rose to a less windy but still wet morning. It was a day for a run. I wouldn't go up any hills as the cloud was still down to about 200 metres so I decided to do the Laharn Bog Trail, a waymarked route around Bentee that was about 15 kilometres long but as I was starting a kilometre off the trail it should be 17 kilometres.

Oh dear but I felt rough at the start of the run. My knee hurt and as it was uphill for the first kilometre I struggled badly. Thankfully things eased after a while and once I reached the trail road things levelled off and my knee started to feel okay as well. I didn't know what to expect from the route but at least it was something new to me so I was looking forward to it. After six kilometres of running on quiet country lanes the trail turned onto a green road that crossed wild boggy ground before it reached another road. After a few hundred metres this road became a forest track that was a delight for the next couple of kilometres before it ended when it reached the road I had earlier left. Now I was once again on tarmac but the going was easy as over the next four kilometres the road descended gently and traversed under the slopes of Bentee and a wide expanse of bog on the right. I knew that the trail joined the Kerry Way as it neared Cahersiveen but I managed to miss the turnoff. I stayed on the road until it reached the busy main road outside the town and followed this back to the campsite. It added a little distance to the outing but avoided a little climbing so I was just as happy. Once again I was soaking wet when I got back but well pleased to have completed an 18.5 kilometre run. The longest I had done since the start of February. In the evening I went to Reenard Pier for another attempt at fishing and once again the wind made it hard work. When heavy rain arrived after a couple of fruitless hours I called it a day.

Friday May 22nd;

Finally the forecast was for the day to be mostly dry. After the run yesterday my knee was quite tight but I was determined to get a hike in. There was a fair bit of cloud about but I could see Drung hill in the distance and it's summit was clear of cloud so I decided to head in that direction. I drove up to the place where the Kerry Way meets a country lane and I parked there. I decided that I would climb Been Hill and go from there as far as Drung Hill and return to the car on the Kerry Way. I walked along the trail for a couple of kilometres until I reached a spot where I could easily gain access to the south-westerly spur of Been Hill. This rises fairly gently to the broad top and doesn't present any difficulties. Once again the wind was strong and I had my hat and coat on the whole time. The highest tops of Terromoyle and Com Na Charria where covered by the cloud but thankfully I was able to enjoy views almost all the time. I was pleased that my knee had loosened out and it didn't present too many issues on the way up. I hoped that the descent would also be okay.

Looking back towards Cahersiveen

As luck would have it a veil of cloud swept across the summit when I arrived so I wasted no time in heading to the next top Beenmore. The gentle descent to the col went well as did the climb to the summit and as I was once again free of cloud I was able to enjoy the views down to Comnacronia lake, the first of a total of six lakes that nestle in the Glenbeigh Horseshoe. Once on top I walked the kilometre to Drung hill and then dropped steeply to the Kerry Way some 350 metres below. I followed the way for the six kilometres and finally reached my car. When I started driving back the rain once again arrived with a vengeance. It was just that sort of week. I had really enjoyed the outing. 15 kilometres, almost 1000metres ascent in just over four hours.

Towards Rossbeigh from Drung Hill

It did clear up again in the evening so I ventured to Coonana pier for a couple of hours fishing. It wasn't great but at least it was sheltered enough to fish easily and a couple of Ballan Wrasse obliged. This basically ended the adventure as I returned home the following morning. I also returned minus my tent as the wind had rent a one foot tear in the flysheet and I could see another area that was about to go as well. It was a not very expensive one from Decathlon which I had used a fair bit since Covid and had served me very well. I shall get another one. 

Purple and Tomies and the Gap of Dunloe

 

Tuesday May 11th;

I went with Jerry for a hike on Tomies and Purple above the Gap of Dunloe. This offers a wonderful outing that is packed with views and interest. It would also be Jerrys first time in the area and it is always nice to introduce someone to somewhere new. The weather forecast was good, promising a stiff breeze but dry conditions. Mind you when I collected Jerry at 9am it looked less than promising. The breeze was there but a steady drizzle was falling and it remained quite miserable until we got near Killarney when there was a dramatic improvement and the rain was left behind and mostly clear skies prevailed. We arrived in a reasonably quiet Kate Kearneys and we were on the move at 10am. We set off back the road until we reached the gate to the forestry lane that rises gently until you reach the end of the spur that rises towards Tomies North Top. This allows for a nice gentle introduction to the hike and a couple of hundred metres is easily gained and as you get higher the East Reeks start to reveal themselves above the bulk of Cnoc na Bracha. Unfortunately the gentle progress doesn't last and a steep tough pull of over 200 metres is required to reach the broad top of Tomies North Top. A brief rest here to admire the now extensive and stunning views and we set off for the climb of Tomies itself. This near 200 metre climb looks worse than it is and except for the final stretch is on a good chicaning path. We topped out to a buffeting cold northerly wind and we wasted no time taking some shelter and enjoying a bite to eat. Even in the shelter it was cold and I put on my hard shell, hat and gloves before setting off on the next leg.

Once on the move we warmed up again and the next climb of 100 metres to the Purple NE Top  passed well. The climbing was now nearly done for the day and it was just a short walk to the col before climbing the final 100 metres to the top of Purple. Oddly enough the wind wasn't as strong since the last top and we were able to relax in the open for a while and enjoy the extensive and wonderful views. It had been a while since I was here and it was also a pleasure to see Jerry's appreciation for the place. One curiosity of the summit is that when you reach the first cairn the next one just 100 metres away looks definitely higher but when you reach the main cairn and look back the first cairn looks higher. I don't know why this is but it is something I have encountered before on other mountains. Wedidn't delay too long and continued straight ahead and dropped easily down the dry slopes until we reached Glas Lough and followed the trail to the Head of The Gap. It felt much warmer down here and we enjoyed walking the 6 kilometres back to the car. We enjoyed an excellent coffee and cake in the nearby cafe before heading home.

It had been a grand old outing and a good test for Jerry who is still getting his mountain legs. 16 kilometres, 1050 metres ascent in just over 5 hours..

Hiking in the Dingle Peninsula

 

I haven't really being doing much hillwalking of late, I've been using running and cycling in the main to try and keep fit. As I have a trip upcoming to the Alps in June I reckoned it was high time to get in a few hill days. A great weather forecast coincided with a few days off work so I took the chance to head to one of my favourite places, the Dingle Peninsula.

Thursday,

After finishing a run of nights I needed some sleep so I didn't leave home until 2pm. I was going camping at the Green Acres campsite near Castlegregory and the plan for the evening was to get in a spot of fishing. There was a stiff easterly wind blowing so as it's a big old four man tent and not the easiest to set up when alone and its windy, I opted for the sheltered corner near the games room and play ground to pitch the tent. Once the tent was up I went and dug lugworm for bait and fished at Castegregory beach until 10pm. It was a very enjoyable and busy session as the bass were plentiful and on the feed. I returned to the quiet campsite and enjoyed a lovely peaceful night.

Friday,

Today the plan was to get a good hike in. I had a leisurely morning and I caught up on some sleep and relaxed a while with good coffee and breakfast before deciding to  do a fine outing that would take in Bensokee and several tops that stretch west towards Cloghane. I drove to the junction for Cloghane off the Dingle road and parked there. Up next comes a three kilometre walk along the road until, after crossing the river at a bad bend, easy access is gained to the beautiful valley between Gob an Iolair and Binn an Tuair. The morning was perfect weather wise. The stiff wind of last nght had died down to a breeze and there wasn't a cloud in the sky. I have developed yet another injury, this time the back of my right knee giving trouble and I was apprehensive as to whether it would be problematic during the hike. Once into the valley I turned and started up the steep 500 metre climb that leads to the broad boggy summit of Binn an Tuair, which although it is just 592 metres high, requires a stiff effort to reach it. I thankfully needn't have worried about my knee, as while I could feel it, it didn't hold me back. 

Looking towards Gob an Iolair

The views to the Brandon massif are wonderful

Finally on top and looking towards Benoskee

I paused a little while to enjoy the wonderful views before setting off to the top An Com Bán just a kilometre away before dropping to the col before the final 250 metre climb to the summit of Benoskee 826mtrs. What an amazing viewpoint this is. Situated right in the middle of the peninsula, there are superb views to both the massifs of Bartregaum and Brandon. The Brandon area in particular looks stunning.  I enjoyed a bite of lunch here and I sheltered from the chilly breeze before setting off down to the boggy expanse that separates the hills on the northern and southern sides of the peninsula. 500 metres is lost and the ground gets progressively wetter but there is a delicious sense of remoteness and isolation here. A stiff 150 metre climbing saw me reach the craggy Gob an Iolair. A traverse of the slopes of Sliabh na nGabhar comes next before after another descent and river crossing sees you reach the final climb of the day. 150 metres of ascent and finally I was on the sharp and delightful An Starraicìn. Now this top is just 458mtrs high but don't let the modest height fool you. It is a superb viewpoint, perched as it is atop a steep spine that drops between two valleys filled with lakes and framed by cliffs and waterfalls. It is a truly  magical place. One advantage of the modest height is that it doesn't take long to descend and before too long I was walking alongside the lake shore and soon I was back at the car. One thing to note however is that the start of the descent is quite steep and a good head on steep ground is essential. 

So just under 19 kilometres covered in just over five and a half hours with a respectable 1250 metres ascent thrown in. I was delighted.  Mind you I was less so when I returned to the campsite to discover a few families, each with several small children had arrived and pitched up near me. My quiet time was a thing of the past.

Saturday, 

The breeze of yesterday was after easing off and it was another mostly blue sky day.  The mountains however were veiled in cloud down to around 700 metres. I wasn't too bothered and decided that today I would do a round on the Brandon range. One of my favourite rounds is to start in the delightful village of Cloghane and walk in along the quiet lane that heads towards the wild ground under Ballysitteragh before turning and climbing Gerhane first. The lane is a dead end so it is very quiet and the views become ever more dramatic the further you go. After nearly four kilometres on the lane I turned onto the track/roadway that passes a couple of farmhouses before climbing gently to reach Lough Avoonane. Wow, what a spectacular place this is. The lake nestles under a series of cliffs and cascades that rise over 600 metres to the ridge above. Not that I could see the ridge as it remained hidden in cloud. I was ever hopeful it would clear but the day was calm and dry so I couldn't complain. Now I started up the long, steep and unrelenting climb of the east spur that would eventually see me crest out at the summit of Gerhane 803mtrs. I took it steady and was pleased to find I made good progress. Once in the cloud there was little to distract me and once I reached the top I simply continued on towards Brandon Peak, less than a kilometre away.

Gerhane hidden high above

While following the easy ridge I reminisced on the time I crossed it during the severe cold snap of 2010. Then the entire massif was covered in snow and the ridge had formed a pleasingly sharp snow crest that provided an airy and spectacular passage. When I reached  Brandon Peak (840mtrs) the usually spectacular views were absent so I turned without pause for Brandon itself. The next three kilometres passed easily and only the final bit provided a stiffish pull. I actually had the summit to myself but once again I simply walked on and descended the normal route towards the grotto. Once I re-emerged under the cloud I enjoyed a very pleasant passage, all the way back to my car. I hadn't had the uninterrupted views of yesterday but I had still enjoyed myself immensely.

Finally re-emerging under the cloud

17kilometres today in 5 hours 20 minutes with 1320 metres ascent.

Sunday,

I enjoyed another leisurely start and I was in no hurry to pack everything up and turn for home. It was warm calm and sunny again today but there was more in the way of loud on the mountains, which were veiled down to around 600 metres. By the time I was ready to leave it was almost noon. I decided that I would climb Caherconree from the road that rises from Camp village on the western side of the mountain. There is a marked trail that rises to the old promontory fort that is spectacularly situated at over 650 metres. It was just a short drive to reach the trailhead and I was ready to start by 12.30. Things got off to a great start when I heard my first cuckoo of the year when I got out of the car.  Straight away my eye was drawn to the elegant spur/ridge that rose directly to the fort. I decided that this would be my way up, so I walked down the road a bit until I reached a gate that gave access to the open ground. Right from the start it was steep but do-able and I made sue and steady progress. On a fine Sunday afternoon I expected to see others out on the mountain but I seemed to have the place to myself. The going gets steeper the higher you get until finally the final 100 metres rise up through crags and bluffs when hands are sometimes required.

Looking up towards the fort...steeper than it looks here

Above the fort and Dingle Bay beyond

I crested out in the middle of the fort and it was glorious. The cloud was dissipating all the while and now only the very top had a veil and the views were gorgeous. The remainder of the climb to the 835mtr summit is quite laid back and passed easily. Since I was feeling pretty good I decided to include Baurtregaum 851mtrs in m day as well. This would mean an out and back addition of nearly four kilometres and add an extra 260 metres ascent. As it had taken just 1 hour 20 mins to reach the summit it would still only be a short day. The descent to the wide stony col between the two tops is easy and at times pleasingly narrow. By no the remaining cloud was in retreat and I ambled along in warm sunshine. The pull to the broad stony summit of the fourth highest mountain in the country outside of The Reeks is easy and before long I was enjoying the views from it's top. I simply retraced my steps and I was back on the top of Caherconree an hour after leaving it. I descended back to the fort and then made my way back to the road via the marked trail. This becomes increasingly wet and boggy the lower you get and as luck would have it I managed to have a fall while jumping across a watery patch. Ah well, I had only a few minutes to endure before a welcome change of clothes.

Looking across to Baurtregaum

It had been a lovely hike. Not too demanding as it had only covered 10 kilometres but there had been a respectable 950 metres ascent. All done in just under three and a half hours. I was also pleased that I had visited the three main mountain areas of the peninsula.