Showing posts with label Climbing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Climbing. Show all posts

Friday 3 July 2020

Falling in love again..Returning to Howling Ridge on Carrauntoohil.

Yesterday was my first chance to return to the Magillycuddy Reeks since March 15th. That was just before the lockdown and snow lay down to around 600 metres. This time the mountains looked very different, with green being the predominant colour. There was some cloud on the tops but it was light and the weather didn't hold the promise of rain. With things looking quite good I decided to have a look at Howling Ridge. I haven't done any rock climbing in recent times but  mountaineering is something I am loath to give up entirely. Howling gives a proper mountaineering outing and it rises in a series of rocky steps in an ever more spectacular setting. I must confess to having been a bit nervous about soloing the route, but I know it well and I also know that it is not too difficult.
So green. 

Howling runs pretty much on the skyline. 

I reached the notch in the ridge at the Heavenly Gates, and after a deep breath I started up. The rock had a few damp patches but it was predominantly dry and very inviting. Almost straight away I was simply enjoying the act of climbing. It was a simple pleasure to concentrate on each move and become engrossed in few metres immediately ahead. Each step passed easily enough and I was pleasantly surprised to find that I was climbing well and feeling strong. As you get higher up the route the exposure becomes ever more serious but I guess I have become inured to it over the years and it really didn't bother me a bit. There is nowhere on the route that feels desperate and on the steepest sections there are hand and foot placements in abundance. After passing "The Finger" I was faced with the final section called "The Pinnacles" which offer a few interesting sections and all too soon it is over. Nearly 200 metres of a steep slog follows before the summit cross appeared out of the fog.
Hard to capture but the drops are substantial. 


Looking down towards the finger. A wonderful section. 

As is usual, the summit of Carrauntoohil is a busy place, and  I didn't linger long after having a bite to eat. I decided  to finish my day by heading across the airy Benkeeragh Ridge, which gives an enjoyable easy scramble to the summit of Ireland's second highest mountain. As I crossed the ridge I could see a pair of climbers on my favourite route on Carrauntoohil, Curve Gully Ridge. Not having a climbing partner at the moment, and being a couple of grades harder than Howling, I haven't climbed it in a couple of years. From where I was it looks super steep and exciting. I must try to climb it again soon. As I looked across I could see people spread out either side of the cross on the summit and it bizarrely reminded me of statues standing on the roof of a basilica. Perhaps it made this my cathedral.  Anyway,  the remainder of the descent went very well. I went down over Knockbrinnea and back to Lisliebane. My poor quads knew that I hadn't done much climbing of late but it was a pure pleasure to have been back on these mountains. I hadn't realised just how much I had missed them. I found myself enraptured anew by their grandeur and beauty.



Thursday 18 July 2019

The Magillycuddy Reeks-Three Great Ridges and Glenbeigh Horseshoe

Sunday July 14th

It can be strange to revisit your home mountains after visiting somewhere like the Alps. After 13 wonderful days hiking in the finest of mountain scenery, I was a little apprehensive that I might go to The Reeks, and find them somehow lessened, or diminished, in my esteem. I needn't have worried. When I went back on Sunday, in a glorious weather day, I was enchanted and excited, even as I drove into Cronins Yard.
Starting up towards Cruach Mhór

Always an inspiring sight  Carrauntoohil

The way Cruach Mhór towers over the valley as you drive in, never fails to inspire. It definitely is the best way to approach these mountains. It being such a nice day, I was determined to make the most of it, so I decided to have a go at doing the "Three Ridges". This, as well as offering one of the best hiking experiences in the country, can, I guess, be classed as a mountaineering day, as in the middle of it, you climb Howling Ridge, a classic VDiff route. I parked up at the super busy Cronins Yard. Carrauntoohil has become something of a circus these days. The numbers climbing it on a fine summers day, can now be numbered, I would guess, in the thousands at the weekend. There is a booming industry surrounding the mountain, with guiding companies being kept very busy year round. Cronins Yard has been at the centre of life on this mountains for many decades...first as a place that offered access and sanctuary to the mountain rescue, whenever they went about their vital work, and also, as a place to park and meet old friends. They have been expanding their facilities over the years, until today, wonderful tearooms, toilets, changing facilities, as well as self catering and camping, can all be enjoyed. Parking costs just €2 per car, which is super value, and this is in stark contrast to parking costs in Wales and the Lake District.
I was tempted to go for a dip

From the summit across the glen
After a brief chat with John, I set off towards the Hags Glen. Once I passed the Black Stream, I was able to leave the crowds behind, and I set off up across the boggy slope, towards Cruach Mhór. It was sunny and warm, and soon the sweat was flowing. The climb up to the lake goes on and on, and the energy sapping ground, make it a challenge every time. The relief to finally stop, and enjoy a long drink of cool water from the lake, was the reward, before setting off again, on the steep climb to the summit of the first of seven 3000ft peaks. Now the fun begins. As Tom Hutton once described it, in a magazine article he wrote, ( for a British audience), "this is the best ridge you never heard of", and of course he is right. While the Beenkeragh Ridge gets more attention, as it is part of a route to or from Carrauntoohil, the Cnoc na Péiste Ridge offers a more exciting, narrower, more sustained outing, and if you opt for all the best bits, I would say it is a solid Grade 2 scramble. Warm rock made it a pure joy to cross the ridge, and I made sure to stick faithfully to the crest. Once on the summit of Cnoc na Péiste (988mtrs), it is easy going all the way to Cnoc an Chuillinn (958mtrs), and I was loving every step. I have good hill fitness, and with the walking easy, and the situation so spectacular, it is easy to have a good time. I wasn't completely alone, but the East Reeks were very far from crowded, or even busy.
This all changed of course, when after a quick lunch stop on Cnoc na Toinne, I reached the Zig Zags, which is fast becoming the descent route of choice from Carrauntoohil. As I neared the Devils Ladder the large number of hikers heading up the eroded trail to the summit could be seen. It is not a place for quiet reflection. I headed towards the Heavenly Gates, and I was once again in quietude. I always feel a sense of excitement as I near the base of Howling Ridge. It is set among a series of spectacular ridges, and there is definitely a high mountain feel to the place. As I reached the base, I could see a group higher up that were pitching the route. I hoped they would be easy to get by when I reached them. In my less than practiced state when it comes to climbing, I was feeling a bit of self doubt before I set off up, but I reminded myself to take my time..be sure of each hold, and I would be fine. This I did, and indeed, I was. Soon all that matters is the rock before you, and I was once again engrossed in, and enjoying the climb. I reached the group and climbed up past them. They were being led by two seasoned campaigners from Killarney Mountaineering Club, who I used to climb with in the past. I pushed on through, and all too soon I was up at the pinnacles, and then it was all over. The ensuing 150 metre climb to the summit was tough, but passed soon enough, and I was once again in the hoards, as I stopped on the summit for another bite to eat.
The Cnoc na Péiste Ridge

Big crowds out...people lining the track all the way to the top

A group heading up Howling Ridge

The group at "The Finger"..Spectacular place
After that I set off across the Beenkeragh Ridge, and again I stuck to the crest. The best scrambling is at the start, but it is short lived, and soon I was on the point on the ridge called The Bones. The view back to the north face of Carrauntoohil is great. I was surprised to see two guys heading down very steep ground towards O'Sheas Gully. It seemed that they had decided to take a direct line down towards the gully, shortly after passing Tripod Gully. One fella disturbed some rocks, and these crashed down into O'Sheas gully, not far from where another group were descending. It was a fraught situation. I shouted over at the guys, and after several attempts, I got there attention. I indicated that they should head to their left, and to be fair they complied straight away, and soon found a route to safer ground. My good deed done for the day, I set off for Beenkeragh, and enjoyed the rest of the route. On the descent you cross over the twin topped Knockbrinnea (854 mtrs), where the wonderful view of Carrauntoohil, offers yet more eye candy, before the long descent to the valley. This went smoothly, and before too long, I was back in Cronins Yard, enjoying delicious coffee and apple tart. It had been a wonderful day.

16 Kilometres...1780 metres climbing...6 hours 25 minutes.

Monday July 15th

I had camped overnight in the village of Glenbeigh, and my aim today, was to to the Coumasaharn Horseshoe. The amazing weather of yesterday, with the clear blue skies, was absent, and a warm, muggy, cloudy morning greeted me, when I exited my tent. I drove to near the shore of the spectacularly situated Coumasaharn Lake, and started my hike from there. Starting so far into the glen, limits the range of routes you can do, as to do an extended hike from here, would mean walking a fair old way, on the road, at the end. Today, I decided to keep it simple, and just do a circuit of this lake. Thankfully, all but the highest top was cloud free, so navigation would be simple. Straight away the climbing is steep, as I took a direct line up through the craggy ground of Knocknaman. This got the blood pumping, and I even managed to pick out a few nice scrambly bits on the way. After 400 steep metres, the gradient eases right back, and easy walking follows as you head towards Meenteog. The broad spur offers fine views across the huge and complex coum towards Drung hill. The Reeks were shrouded in cloud, and distant views were hazy at best.
After Meenteog, the route follows the ridge, as it swings west towards Coomacarrea, which at 772 metres, is the highest in the area. The views down to the lake, and the convoluted mix, of steep cliffs and gullies, is wonderful. I must venture in as far as the back of the lake sometime, to get a view of all this from below. The 170 metre pull to the high point, is really the end of the climbing, and easy walking follows, as you basically follow the rim of coum, until you can cross the narrow ridge to Teeromoyle Tooth, after which, a super easy descent of the northwest spur, sees you reach a farm road. Follow this, until you pass above the first few houses, and when you reach an old farm shed, turn right onto the road, and then easily back to the car. After the rigours of yesterday, today was a much easier outing, and that was no harm. Less than 12 kilometres...710 metres of climbing, in a leisurely 3 hours 30 minutes.





 It is a lovely place, and is definitely worth the effort to get to. Wild coums, in which nestle sparkling lakes, all surrounded by wide boggy ridges, and views, from the nearby sea, to the mighty Reeks. Whats not to like?. To finish off the outing, I went for a dip in the sea at Rossbeigh beach. It was the first time this year, and I was bracing myself for a frigid experience, but I was delighted to find, the water was not too bad at all. Dunking myself in the breakers was thrilling, and I was loving it. Now, that I know the water is good, I hope to combine more mountain days with a dip in the sea..Perfec


Saturday 13 April 2019

Winter to Spring 😎 Snow on the Galtees to climbing Howling Ridge..What I did in March

Having returned from a very enjoyable trip to the Scottish Highlands it was nice to get back out on my own hills once again. I had enjoyed wonderful spring weather in Scotland and the mountains  there were denuded of snow. So it was somewhat ironic that for a blast of winter I had to head to The Galtees.

 The spring weather basically left as I returned home and a cold snap followed. I headed around to the northside of the range and decided to do the Clydagh Valley Horseshoe. The mountains looked amazing in the clear crisp morning and I was really looking forward to the outing. Besides the chill wind, the first thing I noticed was the joy of moving with a light backpack. I set off up towards Cush first and once I reached the open mountainside it was great to look across the valley and enjoy the sight of the steep snow clad hills that filled the landscape. The slog up to the summit of Cush is always  tough but it doesn't last long and soon enough I was enjoying this tremendous viewpoint. Well, enjoying might be stretching it a bit as it was really windy and damm cold on top. I wasted no time in setting off for my next summit Galtybeg. Down into the glen and things warmed up nicely  (relatively speaking ) and the 400 metre climb that follows ensured I stayed warm. Once on the ridge I could see some cloud starting to form which was a harbinger of the thaw that was to arrive around noon. Not that it had arrived yet and it was bracing all the way to the summit of Irelands highest inland mountain, Galtymore. The wind and the chill on Dawsons Table was vicious and it wasn't a place to linger. Thankfully once I was lower send traversing above Lough Curra things were easier and I enjoyed myself until I passed Slievecushnabinnea when I was able to decend easily to the valley floor. An enjoyable stroll back through the woods saw me reach the carjjust 3 hours 20 minutes after I started. The thaw had really kicked in and as I drove back the snow was in swift retreat. It was a lovely morning.

What a view from Cush


I returned to the Galtees on the 20th for an overnight stay. I wasn't being a complete selfish numpty as my wonderful lady wife and me had had a very pleasant away stay in the excellent Sneem Hotel Apartments where I enjoyed a few runs in this wonderful area. After returning home and with a full moon and clear skies promised I made a last minute decision to head for the wilds again. I had hoped to camp up on the main ridge near Carrignabinnea where there is a lovely flat ledge where amazing views to the north can be enjoyed as well as watching the sunset and the dawn if you have a mind. As I said it was a last minute decision and I left it too late to reach the ridge before dark. I only reached the 650 metre level before I had to finally drop the bag and erect my tent. I then had to drop down a surprising amount to reach a water source and it was fully dark before I was finally all settled. I wasn't too disappointed because the weather was not as forecast and I was engulfed in cloud and a stiff breeze was also buffeting the tent. My hopes of expansive moonlit vistas were not to be. Nevertheless I enjoyed the night and in the morning I completed the climb to the ridge where I was fleetingly above the clouds and Dawsons Table could be seen in the sunshine. I completed the walk over Galtymore and Galtybeg and returned to my car well before noon. Not the ideal outing I had hoped for but is always a pleasure to camp in the mountains.
Looking promising but the cloud increased

Briefly above the cloud.

The meeting of the waters

Not all the magic is on the tops

I'm training for a marathon which is on at the end of May so I have been doing a fair bit of running to try and build up the miles. I had entered the Mallow 10 mile race and I was looking forward to it. On the day the weather was perfect, dry and cool with very little wind. I was not sure exactly how fast to try and run but if I equalled my time of just under 73 minutes at Dunvarvan I would have been happy. As I stood in the crowd before the start I made a last minute decision to try and stick to the 70 minute pacers for a bit and just see how I felt. Well I was running well and managed to actually pass the pacers and I stayed ahead of them for the first five miles. When they passed me I thought that was it but I managed to cling on to them for another mile or so. Then they drifted ahead a couple of hundred metres but by then I had the bit between my teeth and I decided to try to break 70 minutes. Try as I might I couldn't bridge the gap and I finished at 70 minutes 12 seconds. I was more delighted than disappointed...but still...
It is just mile three..I didn't looks as relaxed further on.
Spring had well and truly sprung when on a warm sunny morning on March 28th I headed back to the Reeks for a bit of scrambly fun. I had decided to climb Howling Ridge and take advantage of the great conditions but as I walked into the Hags Glen I decided to head first to the Hags Tooth and so extend the day and add an excellent grade 2 or 3 scramble. After you climb the rock band after the stream just head towards the base of the tooth, picking the most interesting outcrops of rock en route and once you reach the overhanging section you have a choice...right or left. If you go right then you reach an impasse when you have to thread the eye of a needle through the rock to reach the northern side in order to reach the summit of the tooth. This can be fun but it is less hassle and just as nice to pass the overhangs on the right and scramble to the top. Some serious exposure is "enjoyed" neat the top but there is nothing too difficult. After the top just drop to the top of the gully that heads down to the first level of Coumeenoughter. Next comes the climb to the heavenly Gates. I like to climb directly up the rock steps that lie below the old hut as this gives a flavour of what is to come. I enjoyed a brief rest at the gates and then just set off Howling Ridge is always a joy and it felt especially good today when the rock was warmed in the sun, I just relaxed (carefully) and made steady and enjoyable progress up the varying steps. All to soon I reached the final pinnacled section and then it was over. I continued to the summit and basked in the afterglow of having climbed a great route. After my customary bite to eat I headed for the East Reeks. I had hoped to cross the Cnoc na Peiste ridge but time constraints meant I only reached the summit of Cnoc na Peiste before heading down. It had been a super day and re affirmed my liking for doing some more rock climbing.
Always inspiring

A great view of the ridge

Looking down from the top of Howling

Caher and Coumasaharn beyond

Looking up to the Hags Tooth...takes your pick of the best bits




Thursday 31 May 2018

Howling Ridge Again With Daniel

Today I went with my nephew Daniel O'Keeffe to treat him (and me) to his first visit to Carrauntoohil. Dan has a busy life in London and his day to day world is a world away from the wilds of the Kerry Mountains. It is always nice to experience the mountains through fresh eyes and it was a joy to see his reaction to the majesty of these mountains when the swirling misty clouds graced us with some views. I don't think he expected these hills to be, well as "properly" mountain like and it only heightened his anticipation as we got nearer the route.
 This being his first time on a mountain route (his previous experience was limited to indoor walls in London) I decided that a rope and harnesses and some gear would make the outing a safer and more comfortable excursion for everybody. Lack of mountain miles he might have but he doesn't lack for fitness and as I was carrying the rope and gear I struggled to keep pace 😆. Upon reaching the start of the route we donned our harnesses and sorted out the rope and gear and I set off up. To be frank I didn't place any gear. Instead when I reached a good stance above each rock step I belayed Dan up to me and we continued to the top of the route like this. Things were quite atmospheric with occasional swirling mists around and at times misty views down to the Hags Glen and Dan was enjoying the route and ambience immensely. The climbing was no bother to him and he took to it like a duck to water and by the time we finished he was thirsty for more. A nice lunch at the calm warm summit and then we set off across the Benkeeragh Ridge and descended over Knockbrinnea. The whole experience was superb for both of us and in the future when time and travel allows I'm sure we will enjoy other great days out together. Oh and did I say that I carried the gear and rope ??...Up And down 😆😆😆.
Thanks Dan.
Dan the man


Born to it


Yours truly..great bum shot