Tuesday 29 October 2019

Crohane and the Cappagh Glen..The Quieter Side of Killarney

Bank holiday Monday and good weather made the decision to head to the mountains but I wasn't keen to brave the hosts that converge on The Reeks on such days. I had thought to head instead to the Horses Glen and Mangerton but as I drove towards Glenflesk the bulk of Crohane loomed behind and it looked wonderful in its autumn hues. It was just too nice to pass up so I turned and drove on the excellent private road that runs alongside Lough Guitane and at its end I parked up and headed into the wild.


After walking in through a couple of grass paddocks I headed into the band of woodland and climbed due east up the slopes to the shoulder of Crohane. Not that Crohane is the only show in town. The diminutive but wonderful Bennaunmore with its deep glens on either side is a joy to behold and nearby the rugged steep slopes that rise towards Stoompa also attracts the eye. The last time I was in this neck of the woods was when I went on the multi day hike from Millstreet to Knocklomena in mid September. Then I traversed  from Glenflesk over Crohane and Bennaunmore before enjoying a delightful wild camp in the Cappagh Glen. It was nice to reminisce on that trip and it took my mind off the rigours of the near 600 metre pull to the summit. Once I reached the shoulder I could see down to Glenflesk and the long pull towards The Paps and more memories returned. Crohane is one of my favourite summits. It is hard to give a really solid reason for this but despite the fact that it barely reaches 650 metres, perhaps it is the combination of how good it looks from afar, its compact and airy summit and of course the wonderful views all around. Whatever the reason the fact remains that I have always enjoyed every visit and I hope to for a long time yet.
Towards Glenflesk and The Paps



I reached the top which was being buffeted by a stiff very chill breeze which yelled that winter was just around the corner and told me not to linger. I was feeling great and made short work of the descent and the rather boggy traverse to the top of the subsidiary SW Top. A steep drop to the narrow valley that holds Loughs Nabroda and Crohane before I tackled the steep 200 metre climb to the airy top of Bennaunmore (454 mtrs). Despite its modest height this is a wonderful mountain guarded by steep rocky ground and even though you are not that far from Killarney you feel really removed from it all. I dropped down the boggy ground and entered the magical Cappagh Glen where some lunch went down a treat before the short journey back to the car. Even though I had only cover 10 kilometres and climbed 850 metres I really felt that I had had a proper mountain day out. To top it all I hadn't seen another soul all day but then again it would have been a surprise if I did..so shussshhh..don't tell anyone.



Monday 28 October 2019

4 Days in Glorious Connemara

After a very nice family trip to the Riviera and the Mercantour National Park in the south of France it was back to more familiar landscapes for me again. As I still had a week left before I had to return to work I decided to head to Connemara for a four day break just a day after returning home.
First a few words on the France trip. We flew into Nice and enjoyed the delights of this beautiful vibrant city for a couple of days before hiring a car and enjoying the delights of the wonderful mountain villages and mountain scenery of the Mercantour National Park. Our hotel in Nice was right by the airport but the new tram to the city centre makes getting around really easy. One of the highlights for me was getting up each morning and running along the wonderful Promenade des Anglais at dawn before going for a refreshing swim in the warm waters. It was a wonderful way to start each day. We drove up into the surrounding hills and saw several villages perched atop rock bluffs and exploring their myriad convoluted alleys and little shops was a delight. Personally though I found them a little too touristy and I preferred the slightly down at heel charm of Gilette, St Martin Vesubie and Sospel more. People lived in these dark alleys and it was an authentic and charming experience to explore these places. We got a terrific thunderstorm on our second night and morning in the mountains and this created some difficulty in driving as rockfall and some landslides occurred. At one point we just pulled over off the road during a particularly torrential spell of rain and while waiting some spatters of mud and water started to hit the window of the car as a new rivulet of run off started. Thankfully I was able to move the car out of the way and I feared it was just the precursor of a much bigger slip but it came to nothing and soon the weather cleared and we were back in Mediterranean weather once again. It did mean however that the following day out access to a high mountain road where the full glory of the highest in the park could be enjoyed was still blocked by a landslide. At St Martin Vesubie I went for a run up through the village and along a trail to above the town before returning into the village and back to our accommodation and it was a bit surreal to realize that some of what I had run I had walked a couple of years before as part of the Gr52A route. That time I was completely enchanted by the autumn colour in the forests and I had hoped that Margaret would get to see this for herself on this trip but I guess we were too early. Still it gives us an excuse to return.
The wonderful Promenade des Anglais in Nice

who is going to be top cat



CONNEMARA

Friday October 18th;

I must be getting old. My enthusiasm for another trip was not great as I guess i was still a little fatigued after the French trip and the weather for the weekend was, while okay, not riviera standsrds either. I prevaricated during the morning as to whether I would go or not. Then I oscillated between a hotel, hostel or camping stay until finally deciding to take my trusty Terra Nova Voyager tent and head to the wonderful Clifden Eco Beach campsite. A flurry of last minute packing meant it was nearly 12.30 by the time I finally left for the long (265 kilometre) drive into the wild west. Heavy downpours marked the first hour of the trip but as I got further beyond Limerick then it became much much better and suddenly I was really looking forward to the trip.
The long drive was uneventful and eventually I pulled in to the wild and wonderful campsite that as the name suggests is right beside a beautiful beach. Once I had  checked in and my home was sorted I wasted no time in setting off on a run but it was still almost 17.30 by the time I began. Of course sods law meant that I almost immediately got drenched by a rogue shower which, considering it was just 11 or 12 degrees anyway meant it was while before I warmed up. I ran along the quiet lane right to the end of the headland and around a lake before retracing my route to the tent. It was a little longer than I had thought (over 16 kilometres) and it was getting quite dim by the time I got back but it felt great to be out and active in this wild and wonderful place.

Saturday October 19th;

One of the major attractions of Connemara is its mountains and today I planned is doing one of the finest walks in the country. The Owenglin Horseshoe is a big round in the Twelve Bens that takes in six main summits as well as a few other subsidiary tops so it is not to be taken lightly. The forecast for today was for rain in the morning before a clear in the afternoon. It had rained quite heavily during the night and there were still lots of showers on the go as I drove to the start of the route. I put on the full raingear and was on the move by 10.15. I opted to do the route in a clockwise direction today and as I had parked near the quarry at the end of the lane I was very shortly on the sodden boggy ground. The lower flatter ground was running with water but once I reached the steeper slopes heading towards the crest of the broad ridge it became easier to find better underfoot conditions. Once I reached the ridge new vistas opened up and to the west Tully mountain and Diamond Hill looked stunning . To make things even better, the weather was showing signs of improving as well. Some showers still dotted about but I stayed predominantly dry. The tops were mostly free from cloud as well so I was  able to enjoy these wonderful mountain views throughout.



First up in the way of main tops comes Maumonght. This is up over 600 metres but has a big feel as low ground lies in all directions except east. In that direction three more mountains stood proud before the cloud capped Benbaun provided the turning point. The dropship and consequent climbs are substantial so by the time I reached the summit of Benbaun I had climbed over 1000 metres. One rather sad encounter I had was with a blind sheep on the summit of Benfree. It stood facing me as I approached before fleeing uncertainly in random, sometimes circular bursts. I could see its milky eyes and I didn't fancy its chances given the nature of the terrain and of course the approaching winter.  On a more positive note the weather continued to improve and the odd ray of sunshine added to the glory of the views. After Benbaun I descended to the low gap below Benfree not and enjoyed a bite to eat in this wonderful spot. The true rugged majesty of these mighty little mountains is fully realised here and I believe that metre for metre there is nothing to compare with The Bens in these islands.










After my repast I climbed to the rugged rocky convoluted ridge and here the full extent of that other great round on these hills the Glencoaghan Horseshoe is fully revealed. On top of all that there views south over Benlettery and beyond to Roundstone Bog and the chaotic mix of lake, sea and bog near Carna was stunning. One final big drop and climb saw me on Bengower before I dropped, turned and climbed over Bengliniskey before descending easily down to the road and back to the car. The sun had long since won the battle for supremacy and it was now after crisp beautiful autumn day. I arrived back at the car quite delighted with my day. Such a quality outing had made the long journey well worth the effort.
I returned to the campsite and despite the lateness in the year I decided to chance a dip in the sea. Despite it being a chilly 12 degrees I was hopeful that the sea still had some residual hear from the summer...I was wrong. I managed only a few paces into the chill waters before my legs started to pain so an ignominious and rapid retreat ensued. I guess the sea will still be there next July.


Sunday October 20th;

Today was supposed to be the best weather day of the weekend so I decided to go for a cycle. Mind you it was a little bit of a disappointment to emerge to less than a blue sky morning and some rain was still to be seen and there was a stiff chilly breeze. My plan was to head through Cleggan, onto Letterfrack before pedaling through the wonderful Inagh Valley and returning via Clifden. If I was feeling super good I might extend the trip by including Roundstone and Ballyconeely. I put on plenty of clothes and I set off into the wild countryside along the damp quiet lanes. After Cleggan I turned inland and after passing a lake, beyond which the mountains looked great, I joined the main road and turned towards Letterfrack. It was at times tough going when I was into the wind but I was in no hurry and I was enjoying the ever wilder scenery as I went. Beyond the chocolate box pretty Kylemore Abbey and lake I turned into the incomparable Inagh Valley which runs between the Twelve Bens and the Maumturk Mountains. I was really looking forward to this section and it was made all the sweeter as the wind was now at my back.


If you are going to go for a cycle it might as well be somewhere like this
The mountains were at times getting a good drenching from frequent showers and they looked all the more spectacular for that. I enjoyed the entire passage and eventually I reached the main road again and turned for Clifden. As the last section had been down wind I wasn't feeling too bad so I decided to head for Roundstone and so extend the trip. By the time I reached the pretty seaside village I was perhaps regretting my enthusiasm but a nice coffee and chocolate biscuit eased the hardship. I wasn't feeling too bad when I recommenced and the wild open land and sea views were delightful. At least that was until I got about half way to Ballyconneely when I once again turned into the wind and my fatigue was back in force as I struggled to make headway. I was into the wind most of the way back and it is fair to say that I was well and truly spent by the time I eventually reached the campsite. It had taken me 4 hours 40 minutes (including breaks) to complete the 62 miles and there had been some 800 metres of ascent. I was a quiet  boy for the rest of the evening and after a shower it was straight into my sleeping bag for a long sleep.

The GPS died.
Monday October 21st;

I was heading home today but before the long drive I wanted to get one more hillwalk in. A few hours on the Maumturks would fit the bill nicely. It was a gorgeous morning and the wonderful landscape was looking its splendid best as I drove to the carpark below Mauméan. The route I opted for was to climb the section between Mauméan and Maumahoge which traverses the highest in the range, the rather oddly named Binn idir an dá Log. I left the car shortly after 10 am and headed up the easy track towards the pass. In my rush to leave home I had forgotten to bring a lock for my bike so I felt it was vulnerable to being taken as it was just tied onto the rack on the back of the car. I tried to dismiss my fears but they continued to nag me throughout. Aside from that the outing was great. The long steep pull to Binn Chaonaigh (633 metres) seemed to go on and on. Just when you are sure the top is near you crest a steep bit and more is revealed. That said, when you finally reach the large flat area at the top the effort is so well worth it. The ground is now wonderfully rocky and the views aren't bad either. Across the Inagh Valley the Bens looked great but there is so much more to see. Lough Corrib stretched into the distance in the west and to the north Joyce Country and the Mayo mountains look wonderful. To the south the silvered sea stretched to infinity and Carna and Roundstone still looked great. The way ahead is rather serpentine and after a 100 metre drop the ridge rises gradually until finally you reach the wild summit of Binn idir dá Log.







I didn't delay and I took a direct line northwest to the easier ground far below and then I crossed the boggy ground until I reached the road. This I followed for the few kilometres back to the car. I had myself completely convinced that my bike would be gone so I was delighted to see everything was as I left it when I arrived. I sat in the sunshine and enjoyed my lunch before setting off on the long journey home. It had been a fitting end to the trip.
Just about 11 kilometres 860 metres ascent in 3 hours.


  

Thursday 3 October 2019

The Quiet Side Of The MacGillycuddy Reeks

Yesterday I decided to get another fix of the wonderful range that is the MacGillycuddy Reeks but this time I went to the "secret side" in search of relative peace and quiet.
I don't often venture onto the Reeks from this side for a couple of reasons...one it is a long awkward drive to reach the trailhead that adds considerable time to the trip and two, this road can be a nightmare to get through when the leeches, sorry I mean Jarveys are plying their "trade" and during the tourist season when too many cars can be met en-route. Now however things are getting quieter so I drove back and parked by the sheep pens not far from the end of the road and set off. A long tricky drive it may be but the effort is so well worth it. I suppose I should describe the drive a bit first. From Killarney go to Kate Kearneys Cottage and then drive through the beautiful Gap of Dunloe. Continue down into the Black Valley and turn right before you reach the little church. This super narrow lane requires a little care and forget about the higher gears for the next six or seven kilometres. After a kilometre or so turn left and basically follow this road to near its end. The drive is beautiful and really there is no point in trying to rush it. Take your time and savour the journey into some of the finest mountain scenery to be found in these islands. When you finally exit the car you feel very small as here, you are surrounded by the mountains which rise steeply all around.
Broaghnabinnea looms nearby

Up ro the right after the house andn then straight ahead to skyline then up to right


Once on the crest the views back are lovely

A super easy start is enjoyed as you follow the road in as far as the farmstead before following the track up as far as the broody Curraghmore Lough which darkles under the cliffs of Caher. Cross the lake outflow and climb gently to the west across the bog towards a steep shallow gully that faces you on the spur that descends from Caher. This provides a straightforward way to access the crest of the spur. Left of the gully a ramp rises up through a broken buttress and at the top of this some grassy scrambling is to be found. This was the way I opted to go this morning and it proved very enjoyable. It was a gorgeous morning with little or no breeze and clear skies. A thin layer of very high level cloud weakened the suns rays and ensured that there was a distinct chill in the air.As you gain height the views back only get better and better but it is when you crest the spur and the views in all directions are opened up that you have one of these "wow" moments. It is amazing what a slightly different perspective does for a view. Everywhere from the Beara Peninsula to the Dingle Peninsula is laid out before you and whatever direction you look mountain and sea nourish the spirit. Up here at over 800 metres there was a chill breeze but I had to linger and soak in the scenery. It is easy to follow the spur as it turns and heads for the third highest mountain in Ireland Caher (1003metres).

The Iveragh Peninsula continues on and on

Over Counloughra towards the Dingle Peninsula

Heading for Carrauntoohil The East Reeks beyond

The narrow crest of this mountain offers unrivaled views down into Coumloughra and it is very enjoyable to stick to the airy crest as you head towards Carrauntoohil. Once off Caher the slog to the summit of Carrauntoohil is a bit of a chore but soon enough I was enjoying the stunning panorama from the top. It was blessedly quiet as well and none of the hoards of high season were in evidence ( but perhaps I was just there before they arrived). I then dropped to the top of the Devils Ladder before climbing Cnoc na Toinne. The half kilometre or so walk along the flat top of this mountain is one of my favourite parts of the Reeks. Here you are below the higher tops and Caher and the east face of Carrauntoohil look superb while the coums and crest of the East Reeks invite you on. I next climbed the near 200 metres to the summit of Cnoc an Cuillin where, while enjoying my lunch, I decided to continue on the ridge as far as Cnoc na Péiste (988 metres) before retracing my steps to where I could descend towards Brassil and then my car. This added perhaps another 200 metres ascent to the day but it was worth it just to be able to stay high on the ridge for a while longer on a day such as this. The descent is easy with long stretches of grassy soft ground that eases the strain on the knees etc. As is usual it seemed to get much warmer as I went down and it felt balmy once back at the car. I wasn't in any rush to get changed once back down and I lingered in this wild and wonderful place and enjoyed the afterglow of a great outing. I must return here again soon...perhaps when snow covers the tops...winter is coming.
15 Kilometres...1550 metres ascent...5 hours 20 mins
Into the Brida Valley...nice

Across the Hags Glen
The wonderful Conc na Péiste Ridge