Thursday 3 October 2019

The Quiet Side Of The MacGillycuddy Reeks

Yesterday I decided to get another fix of the wonderful range that is the MacGillycuddy Reeks but this time I went to the "secret side" in search of relative peace and quiet.
I don't often venture onto the Reeks from this side for a couple of reasons...one it is a long awkward drive to reach the trailhead that adds considerable time to the trip and two, this road can be a nightmare to get through when the leeches, sorry I mean Jarveys are plying their "trade" and during the tourist season when too many cars can be met en-route. Now however things are getting quieter so I drove back and parked by the sheep pens not far from the end of the road and set off. A long tricky drive it may be but the effort is so well worth it. I suppose I should describe the drive a bit first. From Killarney go to Kate Kearneys Cottage and then drive through the beautiful Gap of Dunloe. Continue down into the Black Valley and turn right before you reach the little church. This super narrow lane requires a little care and forget about the higher gears for the next six or seven kilometres. After a kilometre or so turn left and basically follow this road to near its end. The drive is beautiful and really there is no point in trying to rush it. Take your time and savour the journey into some of the finest mountain scenery to be found in these islands. When you finally exit the car you feel very small as here, you are surrounded by the mountains which rise steeply all around.
Broaghnabinnea looms nearby

Up ro the right after the house andn then straight ahead to skyline then up to right


Once on the crest the views back are lovely

A super easy start is enjoyed as you follow the road in as far as the farmstead before following the track up as far as the broody Curraghmore Lough which darkles under the cliffs of Caher. Cross the lake outflow and climb gently to the west across the bog towards a steep shallow gully that faces you on the spur that descends from Caher. This provides a straightforward way to access the crest of the spur. Left of the gully a ramp rises up through a broken buttress and at the top of this some grassy scrambling is to be found. This was the way I opted to go this morning and it proved very enjoyable. It was a gorgeous morning with little or no breeze and clear skies. A thin layer of very high level cloud weakened the suns rays and ensured that there was a distinct chill in the air.As you gain height the views back only get better and better but it is when you crest the spur and the views in all directions are opened up that you have one of these "wow" moments. It is amazing what a slightly different perspective does for a view. Everywhere from the Beara Peninsula to the Dingle Peninsula is laid out before you and whatever direction you look mountain and sea nourish the spirit. Up here at over 800 metres there was a chill breeze but I had to linger and soak in the scenery. It is easy to follow the spur as it turns and heads for the third highest mountain in Ireland Caher (1003metres).

The Iveragh Peninsula continues on and on

Over Counloughra towards the Dingle Peninsula

Heading for Carrauntoohil The East Reeks beyond

The narrow crest of this mountain offers unrivaled views down into Coumloughra and it is very enjoyable to stick to the airy crest as you head towards Carrauntoohil. Once off Caher the slog to the summit of Carrauntoohil is a bit of a chore but soon enough I was enjoying the stunning panorama from the top. It was blessedly quiet as well and none of the hoards of high season were in evidence ( but perhaps I was just there before they arrived). I then dropped to the top of the Devils Ladder before climbing Cnoc na Toinne. The half kilometre or so walk along the flat top of this mountain is one of my favourite parts of the Reeks. Here you are below the higher tops and Caher and the east face of Carrauntoohil look superb while the coums and crest of the East Reeks invite you on. I next climbed the near 200 metres to the summit of Cnoc an Cuillin where, while enjoying my lunch, I decided to continue on the ridge as far as Cnoc na Péiste (988 metres) before retracing my steps to where I could descend towards Brassil and then my car. This added perhaps another 200 metres ascent to the day but it was worth it just to be able to stay high on the ridge for a while longer on a day such as this. The descent is easy with long stretches of grassy soft ground that eases the strain on the knees etc. As is usual it seemed to get much warmer as I went down and it felt balmy once back at the car. I wasn't in any rush to get changed once back down and I lingered in this wild and wonderful place and enjoyed the afterglow of a great outing. I must return here again soon...perhaps when snow covers the tops...winter is coming.
15 Kilometres...1550 metres ascent...5 hours 20 mins
Into the Brida Valley...nice

Across the Hags Glen
The wonderful Conc na Péiste Ridge



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