Thursday 12 December 2019

The Clydagh Valley Horseshoe on The Galtees

Winds from the northwest meant a forecast of snow on high ground so as a last hurrah before I returned to work I decided to head to The Galtees in the hope of a blast of winter. Setting off from home in the middle of a heavy shower of sleety rain it certainly felt wintry enough and I must say I was looking forward to it. The drive down was as much in rain as not but some clear skies meant I was hopeful that I might get some views as well. Finally as I approached Mitchelstown I could see a dusting on the mountains down to around the 600 metre level...game on 😊.

I decided to do the Clydagh Valley Horseshoe as this would give a decent outing without being too long and still crossing over Galtymór. I set off at 10.20 and decided to head for Lough Curra first as this would hopefully mean the stiff wind would be at my back. A heavy sleet shower meant I was fully suited as I set off but when it cleared I took off the hard shell and packed it away and this is where it stayed for the rest of the trip. Perhaps it was the sight of snow but I found myself really excited by the trip. I suppose it is only natural to feel a little jaded at times but today I I was really excited to be here. The walk up to the wonderful coum in which nestles Lough Curra went well and I was at the snowline by the time I reached the dark waters. I headed around the lake to the far right corner and climbed the broad easy gully that leads to the crest of the main Galty ridge. Once out of the shelter of the gully it was definitely full on winter. This was emphasized by the arrival of a squall of horizontal snow which thankfully was being blown by a following wind. I was also in the cloud but I didn't mind as it was simply invigorating to experience this wild winter weather in this wonderful landscape.
Across to Cush

The easy gully


Suddenly clearing
As I neared the summit of Galtymór I was delighted to find that the cloud was opening up and soon I was able to enjoy views as well as the weather. The summit was quite icy and when I started the descent towards Galtybeg I had to exercise some care so as to avoid a slip. Any notions that I was "hard core" by being out in this weather were dispelled when I was passed by a hill runner dressed in shorts, a very lightweight jacket and runners as he made his way to the top. I was well impressed. When I reached the col above Lough Diheen I was suddenly assaulted by another squall and by spindrift as it was blown up the slope. I had reason to regret not bringing any goggles as well as forgetting crampons. There are few things more unpleasant than a speeding bit of snow or ice hitting your eyeball...ouch. The wind seemed to be getting a little stronger and on the top of Galtybeg it was buffeting. I didn't delay before setting off down the icy slopes and heading for Cush. The clearance brought wonderful light and views and it was delightful all the way to the top and back to the car. It had taken 3 hours 25 minutes to cover the 13 kilometres and included over 1000 metres of ascent. It was a lovely outing.
Summit of Galtymór

Wonderful light



Cnoc an Chuillinn via the Northeast Spur

Monday December 9th;

With storm Atiyah having spent itself overnight and another bout of wild and wet weather due to arrive tomorrow it was an easy decision to make to head to the Reeks and get in a quality hill day during this weather window. It was a clear chilly morning with a mere breeze blowing instead of the gales of yesterday and as I parked the car at Lisliebane I could see only a few bits of cloud blowing across the tops. I had thought to just do a straight up and down Carrauntoohil but as I walked into the glen I decided to head for Coomeenmore and climb the north spur of Cnoc an Chuillinn. This is a fine route that leads directly to the summit from the spectacular coum. It is also one of the least visited places in the range. Getting to the coum is a nice walk in itself as you cross the outflow of Lough Callee before contouring gradually into the coum. The spur is fronted by an imposing buttress that could offer some serious broken scrambling but it is wet and difficult and perhaps best avoided unless using a rope. The route climbs the steep left flank of the spur and while it looks a bit intimidating it isn't too bad and only in a few places is it necessary to use your hands. Eventually you reach the top of the buttress and now it is a matter of following the crest of the spur as it rises to the top. A few little scrambly steps can be enjoyed but these can also be avoided if you wish.
Great view across Lough Callee towards Carrauntoohil

Up steeply to the top of the buttress then easier to the summit
Finally the summit arrived and in the stiff chill breeze it didn't feel very welcoming today. This is one of my favourite places in the range and the views it offers into the Black Valley and the Brida Valley are airy and wonderful. Today things were a little moodier as cloud brushed the summit and semi restricted the views but it was moody and still undeniably beautiful. It still being quite early I turned and headed towards Carrauntoohil. After passing Cnoc na Toinne I reached the Devils Ladder and then faced into the long slog to the roof of Ireland. I was actually feeling quite strong and it passed quickly enough and after about 25 minutes I found myself alone at the cloud swept top. A quick bite to eat in the rather grim summit shelter was "enjoyed" before I retraced my steps back towards the Ladder and then descending via the Heavenly Gates. This airy route passes through the most spectacular side of the mountain and is always a pleasure to use. Things went well and I found myself back at the car in just under 5 hours. Needless to say the cloud had lifted by the time I was back in the floor of the glen but I had had some lovely views and a blast of mountain air at this time of year is always a good thing.
Summit views




Monday 2 December 2019

Brandon Peak around to An t'Sais

December 1st and a stellar frosty morning were to coincide so the decision to get up early and head for Mount Brandon was an easy one. Leaving home at 7.45 I was somewhat surprised to find that there was hardly anything in the way of frost but the skies were cloud free so I was hopeful that the mountains would be crisp and clear. The temperature gauge actually dropped to zero as I drove west and when the dawn arrived the mountains looked wonderful in the clear morning sky. The drive from Tralee to Cloghane was simply wonderful and the mix of sea and mountain once again stirred the spirit.
Normally I head up the left side..today on the right
 I parked beside the church and I was on the move by 09.25. I had decided to head for Gerhane via Lough Avoonane  and to perhaps go across the ridge all the way to Masatiompán. I covered the nearly four kilometres along the narrow lane quickly and then turned onto the trail that headed into the wonderful wild. As I headed up to the lake my eye was once again drawn to the east ridge of Brandon Peak. I had never actually been on it and I suddenly resolved that today I would change that. At the lake I turned right and then crossed the fence and took a direct line for the easternmost point of the ridge, where it reached the top of the steep buttress. I know that the true route climbs a rock rib up the buttress but what I really wanted to explore today was the narrow crest that leads directly to the summit.
A steep slog was followed by some scrambling on large rocks and up through some long heather before eventually at around the 600 metre contour I reached the crest. What a joy it was. The clear summits were suddenly being brushed by cloud that rolled over the ridge higher up. While I was a little disappointed, things were still beautiful and if anything the ridge looked even more spectacular as it rose into the mist. The ridge itself is quite easy and more of a walk  really but it does offer some excellent airy positions where the drops to the right are serious. Nothing is compulsory though as the ground on the left is quite amenable for those of a nervous disposition. Soon I was enveloped by the cloud and I finished my climb to the summit. No views and a cold biting breeze made for a swift exit and I headed straight away towards Brandon.


The descent was at times a little slippy on ground and stones made slick by the mist but it was soon on a good track and there follows an easy passage all the way to the final pull to the summit of Mount Brandon. Most of the way there I was treated to misty views to the stunning coastline with its rocky headlands and bays and beyond the glory of the Blaskets could also be seen. Despite (or perhaps because of) the cloud these views seemed precious and I was really so glad I came. I reached the chill and claggy summit after three hours and here I sat in wonderful solitude and enjoyed a welcome bite to eat. Once I was beyond the summit and a couple of hundred metres lower down I was once again treated to those views. This time the rugged north and east side competed with the west and once more I was spoiled for choice. The ridge flew by and it is mostly easy walking all the way as far as the bleak col under Masatiompán. The steep 100 metre pull to the broad top dispelled any chill in the bones and then I started the descent towards Arraglen and one of the few bothies in this country. Once I was back under the cloud this was a pure and easy pleasure. Ahead lay the wonderful An t'Sáis and I decided to include a visit to this glorious viewpoint to round off the day.
Looking west to Mount Eagle and The Blaskets




The rugged east side

Heading for An t'Sáis


Once I reached the metaled road-head I turned right and walked to the crest of the hill and once through a gate I followed the fence uphill to the left. A short boggy traverse was needed to reach the edge of the coum and this I followed to its highest point, all the while enjoying the majesty of the ground as it swept 400 metres to the ocean below. It is a jewel in the coastline and a real bonus so late in the day. I passed over the nearby Faill an t'Sáis (431 metres) and then it is an easy descent to the point where the metaled road reaches the tarmac and once down here I walked the remaining 5 kilometres on quiet roads. The evening light was beautiful and the Faha Ridge at times glowed golden. Across Brandon Bay, Benoskee and more were a constant delight. I made it back to the car just before 4pm. I was soon relaxing into the long drive home and this also was a delight as the russet sky and landscape just got more and more spectacular as dusk approached. To crown it off, the sight of a black silhouette of The reeks stood proud against a deep crimson horizon, was a final treat before the light died. Brandon is always well worth the effort. It had been a great day.

The views kept coming right to the end

24 kilometres..1500 metres ascent and 6 hours 30 minutes.