Cnoc na Péiste North Ridge and Carrauntoohil. Another touch of Winter

 

Last Thursday it was cold and wild, and snow fell right down to sea level. I thought that there would have been a serious dump of snow on The Reeks so I headed back first thing on Friday morning with real hope of a wintry outing.

When I say I headed back first thing I mean it. I got a last minute call to work in Cork overnight and I was on the road west at 06.30. A nice leisurely drive saw me arrive in Cronins Yard not long after 8am and once I was ready I set off into the Hags Glen once again. I must confess to having been disappointed once again at the amount of snow on show. I had expected the mountains to have been coated down to 500 metres at least but it was clear that this wasn't the case. Still it was enticing and beautiful and I was in good spirits as I started in. It was also clear that what snow that was there was probably soft so I left the crampons behind and took just one axe, just in case. Even from here it was clear that Curve Gully would have been, at best a slushy wallow, so I decided to head up towards the north ridge of Cnoc na Péiste and once on the main ridge I could then decide how far I wanted to go. I had brought my heavy winter boots and I must confess to being aware of the extra weight but I decided to just set a steady pace and take my time. Once I left the main track and headed up across the boggy slopes it was clear that the ground was very sodden. I eventually reached the steep ground that rises to the moody lake that nestles under the wonderful ridge that connects Cruach Mhór and Cnoc na Péiste and I went up this at an oblique angle until I reached the rocky start of the scrambly section of the ridge.

Lovely fun scrambling on the ridge

The rocks were mostly snow free and entirely ice free so it was actually a really enjoyable scramble. The "fun stuff" lasts for about 150 metres and I enjoyed every bit of it. It offers enjoyable, never too difficult, but occasionally exposed scrambling until the angle eases about 40 metres below the summit. Some cloud clung to the top but this only added to the atmosphere of the climb. I topped out and enjoyed lovely views down to the Black Valley and the lakes of Killarney. Now comes a long section of heavenly walking. Over the next four kilometres there is not too much in the way of climbing so it is easy to amble along at mostly over 3000ft and  enjoy that wonderful feeling of being in the heart of a wild and wonderful place. The early start and scant breakfast meant that lunch became brunch and I relaxed and had a bite to eat before I reached the Devils Ladder. I was feeling good and enjoying myself so I decided to climb Carrauntoohil and return and descend via the Heavenly Gates. 

The Brida Valley

The Heavenly Gates

Just beat the rain..for a change

The climb from the ladder to the summit of Carrauntoohil really doesn't have a lot to recommend it but I kept putting one foot in front of the other and after 30 minutes I reached the roof of the country. As is usual I didn't have it to myself but I was surprised to see a young guy putting away his crampons. I asked him what route he had come up and he said The Lick for a while before breaking out to The Step. I saw that he was also sporting a fine pair of climbing axes. I can only imagine he left more scratches on rock than anything else as absolutely no ice was to be found anywhere. Ah well, god loves a trier. I about faced and descended the lovely route that is The Heavenly Gates. It offers a spectacular route through the most impressive side of the mountain and always inspires. I finally reached the car a little over 5 hours after setting off. It had been a delightful outing of almost 17 kilometres and nearly 1500 metres of ascent. Well worth missing some sleep for. The less said about the fishing that evening the better.

A Wintry Magillycuddy Reeks. February 2022.

 I finished nights on Thursday morning and, being determined to make the most of the few days available to me before I start seven 12 hour days, I forwent bed and loaded up the car with my hiking and fishing gear and headed west.

The forecast for the next couple of days was mixed. Today was to be breezy, cold and dry but tomorrow was to get quite windy and rain was due in by midday. As I was going to be passing close to The Reeks while on my way west I decided that a climb of Carrauntoohil would be just the ticket to rid myself of any sleep cobwebs. One thing that struck me as I drove back was the dusting of snow on the mountaintops. Hmmm, perhaps I should have brought an ice axe or crampons?. Ah well, it was too late now. I parked in Lisliebane and set off into the glen shortly after 10am. My oh my, what a glorious morning. Mostly clear skies allowed me to admire the beautiful snow capped peaks ahead. A stiff chilly breeze cleared the sinuses but it wasn't too bad and I was looking forward to the day ahead. As I walked in the track I briefly was temped to climb up The Bone first and then turn and head for Carrauntoohil. I decided against that route as I would be heading into the wind while on top. As I reckoned it would perhaps be a war of attrition on that direction I decided to climb in an anti clockwise direction instead. As I went further into the glen my eye was drawn towards the steep ground that rises directly to Knockbrinnea and on a whim I decided to climb up that way

The view to Beenkeragh and Carrauntoohil from Knockbrinnea

If I wasn't warm by now I soon would be as I started up the unrelenting steep 550mtr climb. On the previous Sunday I went to Dungarvan to run in the 10 mile race. It didn't go well and I suffered badly for most of the run. I was feeling quite sorry for myself for a few days after so a day on the mountains was just the tonic I needed to restore my confidence. On the climb I kept up a steady pace and I was able to gain height quite quickly. The views back down into the glen became more spectacular and the East Reeks and beyond were very special. As I passed above the "Hags Fingers" I was briefly enveloped in cloud and a light snow shower. It only added to the enjoyment of the day. As I had now reached the snow line I had to be a bit more careful as I climbed up the sometimes rocky slopes. The wind was getting stronger and it really felt quite wintry by now. I was loving it. The angle eases back as you near the summit of Knockbrinnea and now the views west towards Inch and Dingle can be enjoyed on top of the nearby glories. Next up comes Beenkeragh.The 200 metre climb passed easily enough but some care was required near the top as I climbed up the icy rocks. It promised to be interesting when I crossed the ridge towards Carrauntoohil.

Carrauntoohil from Beenkeragh

Caher

West towards Coumasaharn

The frozen summit of Beenkeragh was no place to tarry in the biting wind so I wasted no time in setting off on the ridge. First up came the descent. This was straightforward enough once I took my time and made sure of each foot placement  on the icy rocks. Once down, there follows a super enjoyable walk along the good track until you reach the narrow rocky crux of the ridge. I decided to stick to the crest on this section and it worked out well. Good care is needed here but there are ample placements for foot and hand and safe progress can be made. The drop towards the top of O'Sheas Gully is probably the trickiest section of the route in the conditions. Once at the top of the gully another climb is needed to reach the top of Carrauntoohil. Again, some care is needed to surmount the icy sections but soon enough I was on the icebound top. I briefly thought I had the summit to myself (a rare thing these days) but I spotted a few people sheltering from the wind at the stony shelter. I decided to head towards the ladder and have a spot of lunch nearer there. There were a few other climbers out but all in all the mountains were quiet and I had most of the route entirely to myself. After lunch I climbed Cnoc na Toinne, which is one of my favourite places on the ridge. Here you are literally in the heart of the range, and despite being at 840 metres the mountains either side look large and imposing. This spot is also the best (or worst) place to experience the fury of spindrift. Today was no exception and as I crossed the top I had to shelter my eyes from the probing shards of snow. It was invigorating.

The East Reeks

Looking towards Kenmare Bay

As I approached Cnoc an Cuillin I was again overtaken by a wintry squall that only added to the atmosphere of the day. It soon passed and by the time I was on the top the views were again extensive and wonderful. I continued easily on the ridge as far as Maolan Bui (The Bone) and descended easily from there all the way back to the glen floor. I arrived back at the car almost five and a half hours after setting off, tired for sure but also enthused and invigorated. About 14 kilometres covered but over 1500 metres climbing had made it a substantial outing.  It had been a stunning day....and it wasn't over yet.

Into the wonderful Brida Valley

Towards Mangerton and Killarney

Next up came the drive as far as Rossbeigh beach, where after spending an hour digging for lugworm, I set up my rods and prepared for several hours of surf angling. The breeze was forecast to die as darkness arrived and so it came to pass. It made for a very enjoyable experience to relax and watch the rods into the night. It was all the more special as the bass were about and in the mood for food. First cast I brought in the first of several fish and of course no session would be complete without the inevitable losses. It proved to be great sport and before I knew it it was nearly 10pm.I returned to my car and drove the short distance to the back of the beach and  soon I had my tent up and I was settled for the night. I have to add that strictly speaking camping is forbidden here, but I reckoned that in winter and it being from late at night to early morning I would be okay. So it proved to be. It had been an excellent tiring but fun filled day. 

Stoompa to Mangerton Horseshoe.

 

The weather has been really quite good for the time of year. It was an especially good forecast for today so I decided that it would be a shame not to have a day on the mountains. With that in mind I decided that Mangerton would make a nice outing. It was therefore something of a disappointment to emerge from the house to an overcast dreary morning and a steady drizzle falling. Ah well, I wasn't going to let a little drizzle stop me and perhaps things would be better further west. The precipitation stopped as I drove back but the cloud and mist was pervasive and obscured all views.

I arrived at the start just after 10am and after suiting up I set off in along the heavily eroded trail. I decided to go across the rough ground and go to the summit via the Horses Glen. There wasn't a puff of breeze and in the low misty cloud things were quite atmospheric and calming. When I reached in by the lake I had a change of heart and decided to climb Stoompa and do a high level circuit of the glen instead. I reasoned that it was seldom so calm and it would be very pleasant up high. The vie from the end of the lake to the rugged entrance to the glen is one of my favourites and I paused awhile to admire it before heading up the (initially easy) north northwestern spur of Stoompa. Once on the ridge I was again enveloped by the mist and no views were on offer for a long time after that. There was nothing for it but to put the head down and slog up to the summit. I must say I was feeling a bit less than energetic but I managed to keep going without pause. Once on the top there follows an easy walk around the elbow of the glen, high above the triumvirate of lakes nestled below. The cloud became wispier and occasional misty views into the glen lifted the spirits. After giving a guy (whose dog was off the lead and chasing some sheep) a good bollocking, I continued to the arete between Mangerton and Mangerton North, and here I paused for a bite to eat. It was a simple thing to cross over Mangerton North and as soon as I started to descend towards the main track the clouds cleared and I enjoyed great views for the rest of the descent. Seeing three young stags added even more to the outing and I really enjoyed the rest of the descent. I arrived back at the car 3 hours 50mins after setting out, so it had been a decent effort to cover the 14.5 kilometres with over 900 metres ascent. I am getting the urge to immerse myself in the mountains once again.