Friday 4 March 2016

The Horses Glen and Mangerton in a Wintry Blow


This morning I went back to Mangerton again for what will probably be my final blow-out before my trip to Scotland. The physio therapy has been quite effective and I wanted to do a bit more than just a straight up and down like I did with Ruby last week so I decided to head in the Horses Glen and climb Mangerton North and then cross to Mangerton itself. It may be Spring but Winter isn't finished with us yet and there had been a fair bit of snow last night and it was only two degrees as I drove back. There was a stiff breeze blowing as well so the more sheltered Horses Glen would offer some respite for a lot of the route.
A new spring arrival

Heading into the wild Horses Glen

The cliffs on Mangertons north face always an impressive sight

Hopefully Frank will come with me to climb this ridge this year.

I had forgotten to bring my waterproof pants and as I walked through the long heather as I crossed the rough ground that led to the glen I was quickly soaked through. I didn't mind as my knee was feeling good and the wildness of the place I was in more than made up for any discomfort. I plodded on and was eventually in the back of the glen where I turned and climbed steeply to the top Of Mangerton north. When I reached the crest of the mountain the wind was quite strong and with the ground covered with snow I was immersed in a proper winter landscape. Unfortunately the cloud had come down to around the 600 mtr contour so there were no views to enjoy. Perhaps it was just as well as in the conditions it was easier to just keep the head down and plod on. Down and across the arret and up an icy slope saw me reach the summit plateau of Mangerton where I turned right and contoured around the steep ground above the Devils Punchbowl. Wow but the wind was strong. It had perhaps doubled in strength and I really struggled (at times unsuccessfully) to walk along the coum edge. Spin drift was also a problem and I had to don my snow goggles. I had been debating wheather to carry my lightweight hard shell coat to Scotland but today I was glad to be wearing my heavy duty one so I think that decision is now made.  Things gradually eased as I lost height and by the time I was back at the exit of the lake I could walk with relative ease again. Down under the cloud and I could again enjoy the wonderful views over Killarney and back to The Black Valley. It was nice to get back to the car and change my clothes and enjoy a nice bite to eat. Roll on Scotland.
Towards The Black Valley

Over Lough Leane and Killarney

Torc with Purple mountain beyond. Blue skies on the way.

Tuesday 1 March 2016

WINTER CLIMBING ON CARRAUNTOOHIL. "THE STEP" PLUS

Stunning view leaving Cronins Yard
A good dump of snow and a promise of a frosty night meant that Bridie, Denis and myself went back once again to Carrauntoohil in search of a quality winter climb. Having enjoyed a wonderful outing on the Grey Area in recent times, this time I thought the Grade 2 outing "The Step" would make a worthy outing. We reached the second level and arrived at the base of the climb. The bottom of the step is the most difficult section, and in proper cold conditions can offer an icy start with good axe placements, but today I wallowed and waded up through deep powder, and I had to climb the steep slabby left side of the gully. Its fair to say, that finding anything decent in the way of placements was tough and trusting the front-points in soft turf meant that at times things felt much tougher than Grade 2. I got over the difficulties and brought the guys up to join me. I looked up at the continuation of the route and lets just say the prospect of wading up through more deep powder for the rest of the way didn't appeal and I decided to go right to the base of the steeper mixed ground that formed the left side and overlooked "The Lick".
 
The green line is The Step (above the initial section) and the red line is the continuation we followed.


Looking up at the start of the route. A bit steeper than it looks here
Deciding to head up the rocky ground on top right instead of continuing up the snow of The Step
After crossing the deep snow on the right I arrived at a nice looking rocky section. It was steep but it looked okay so after setting up a belay I set off up. It was decidedly sketchy and exposed and I was glad to finally get over the difficulties and reach somewhat easier ground. It was just about 10 meters but the absence of any protection and having to scratch and scrape for foot and axe placements meant it was a high Grade3 section. I brought up Bridie and Denis and we continued up. The remainder was long and interesting and a mix of steep deep snow and rocky steps. We basically were able to look at "The Lick" on our right as we rose. There was some ice on that route but a lot of it was banked out and I guess it would have been pish lower down. We stuck faithfully to the ever narrowing ridge and eventually reached the end where we turned right and made our way up the final 50 meters or so to the cross. It had been a long and interesting outing covering around 300 meters of technical ground. We devoured a late lunch and descended via a well snowed up track all the way down to the bottom of the Heavenly Gates where we finally dispensed with the crampons. We arrived back at the car a full nine and a half hours after setting off, tired but very satisfied with our day. The Reeks were particularly wonderful looking. Next up hopefully more of the same for me in Scotland.
Following on after pitch three

Looking across to the East Reeks

Lovely winter conditions all the way up


People on the Benkeeragh Ridge

Looking across The Lick. Shows how steep the ground is.


Final section

Summit views across to Caher

Almost enough to make you forget the horrible winter

Thursday 25 February 2016

Carrauntoohil-Physio-Mangerton

Last Saturday I ventured back to Kerry with Denis and Bridie for another blast up Carrauntoohil. What a difference a week makes. After the beauty of the Grey Area last week we were face with strong winds and constant rain today. It was just a case of putting on all the rain gear and keeping the head down and ploughing on. We enjoyed the outing despite (or maybe because of ) the weather but it was still a relief to get back to the car and change into dry clothes and get warm. The wind on the summit was pretty severe and I was at times concerned that one of us could be whipped to one side and onto steep ground but thankfully we were fine.

Since before Christmas I have been struggling with a knee injury and it just wasn't going away. I had hoped that it would get better by it self but if anything it was getting steadily worse and in the high winds the knee got a couple of jarring twists and it was really quite painful that evening and the following day. I had been to the doctor about it and she recommended physio so I bowed to the inevitable and booked myself in for a session on Monday afternoon. I have never had physio before and lets just say it was an experience. She managed to find knots in the knots in my muscles and before she was through I was literally sweating from the pain. Her strength as an Irish rugby international was in evidence and I was sure she was having a bad day. The 45 minutes passed and I could breathe again but it definitely was a huge help. My symptoms were immediately better and the loosening of muscles and hamstrings eased the pain on the torn Medial Ligament I had.

Crohane and The Paps beyond

Looking to the impressive cliffs that overlook The Horses Glen
I went for another session (much less painful) this morning and I felt great afterwards. Walking down the town I realized just how poorly I had been walking of late and it being such a good day I decided to head for a quick up and down of Mangerton. Ruby decided she would like a hike as well so we both set off together. Light and easy was the order of the day and I really enjoyed it. The views into the Black Valley are great but it was my progress on the injury front that really buoyed my spirits. I could still feel it but it was definitely better and I can see light at the end of the tunnel. It was also delightful to have Ruby along for company and it brought home once again how badly served we are here with the access restrictions we face. I can of course understand the need to control dogs but a well trained animal which is kept under close control (not necessarily on a lead) posed no threat to anything and should be allowed. Anyway rant over. I really enjoyed the 2 hours 30 minutes in the wilds. Hopefully I will be able to get back running again soon.
Small dog in big spaces

The frosty nights had wrought their stuff

Heading down

Into the Black Valley