Curve Gully Carrauntoohil

Last week a proper cold snap arrived. A good dump of snow and temps down to minus 8 meant that for a full week we had wonderful winter weather. Alas the heavy snowfall meant that the roads were not drivable and as I was working every day I wasn't able to get to the mountains until Saturday. Indeed it felt a little surreal driving back and seeing the fields either side still under a white blanket and the roadsides high with snow where the snow plough had been. Once I turned off the main road beyond Killarney I was relieved to find that the road all the way to Cronins Yard was okay with a little care. My oh my but the mountains looked wonderful. It was also clear that there was a substantial thaw underway and the rock ridges and faces were fast becoming snow free.

The rescue were on a training exercise

 I left a fairly quiet car park and set off in the trail towards the Hags Glen. What a gorgeous morning it was. Crisp without being cold and clear skies and little or no breeze promised it would be a great day. Crossing the wet stony ground towards Coumeenoughter only confirmed the extent of the thaw and the snow was quickly turning to slush. I suspected and feared that when I reached Curve Gully I would be sinking deep into the snow. The climb between level one and two of the coum was up a snow field and there was a good set of steps to follow. These weren't too deep and provided a reasonably firm footing. Hope rose. When I finally reached the banked out base of the route I decided to see what it was like without crampons. It was fine all the way to the top. I just used the ice axe for security. I had thought that if The Step was in condition I would have gone up that route instead as it offers a nice Grade 2 outing but it was far from complete as was The Lick.

Everything disappearing fast

 I really enjoyed the climb. It was stress free on decent snow from the bottom to the top and once it was over I topped out to brilliant sunshine and wonderful views. There were a few people on the summit and each were marvelling at the benign conditions. I sat and had a bite to eat before making my way to the top of the Devils Ladder. I decided to descend here and things were initially easy as a good bank of snow was well stepped so progress was swift. Alas the bottom third of the gully had less cover and it became an exercise in trying to avoid breaking through the snow into the streams below. Torturous was how I would describe it and I was very tired and relieved to reach flatter ground near the bottom. There still was a fair old way to go but eventually I reached the car a tired but happy boy. Curve in winter offers a delightful way to the top of the mountain. 

Wonderful Winter on Carrauntoohil

Sunday March 3rd;

 In the last couple of months I have experienced Carrauntoohil in very different guises. In the middle of January I climbed Curve Gully when it was at its very best for ice climbing. A little while after that I went back and climbed up O'Sheas Gully on a wet cloudy day, when things could best be described as atmospheric. We had a good dump of snow on the mountains the previous few days and I decided to head back once again and see what was on offer. I was hopeful of climbing The Step or having a rummage around in The Grey Area but it was not to be.

As I drove back I was a little disappointed to see that the temperature was up at 8 degrees and heading higher. Since there hadn't been any meaningful frost overnight I suspected that the snow that had fallen would be slushy and soft. Indeed it came as a surprise to see that only the tops above 600 metres held and traces of snow at all. That is when I could see any tops, as the cloud and frequent heavy rain showers obscured my view most of the drive back. The forecast promised a fine weather day so I was hopeful that things would improve. It was a relief to see that by the time I was heading out of Killarney the skies were clearing and now I could also see that there was still a lot of snow on the mountains above 600 metres. When I left the car it was a really pleasant morning, 8 degrees, with only a slight breeze and mostly clear skies. 

Cloud clings to Carrauntoohil

The East Reeks in the clear

Entering the Hags Glen is always special. Modest in height by international standards these mountains may be but the punch above their weight and always look impressive and they form a formidable barrier as they loom in front of you. Today with snow covering the upper half they looked even better. As often seems to happen, the East Reeks tops were clear of cloud but Carrauntoohil was shrouded and some rain/snow was falling in Coumeenoughter. As is usual on a Sunday there were lots of people about. Thankfully most of those I saw were suitable dressed and equipped. I followed the trail as it rose into the ever more impressive mountain scenery ahead. The cloud was lifting and I could see the impressive north and east face of the mountain. The Grey area looked steep and intimidating in its alpine sugar coating but the ridges were clear of snow. This indicated that the thaw was well underway and I had little optimism that the snow would be firm or that any useful ice could be found. The snow line started at the first level but it was soft and slushy. It didn't improve as I rose up to the second level. Indeed the only difference was that there was more of it. When I could see The Step it looked great, but I knew it was an illusion and to climb it would have meant a torturous procession up deep slush and black rock. I decided to turn instead to Curve Gully and climb that until I reached the second half of it from where I could perhaps access the Grey Area if conditions up there proved better.

A spectacular place to be

More snow on the second level

The gully well banked out. Glad to see the steps

To be honest I was expecting the gully to be a torturous wallow. It was banked out with snow and presented a much easier proposition than the last time I was there when some delicate Grade 2 ice climbing was to be had. I could see that a pair of climbers were after starting up as I approached so I knew that I would have some steps in the snow. I debated whether to put on my crampons or not when I reached the gully as the snow was not exactly icy, but I reckoned that if things got better higher up then it would be easier and save time to have them on now. I was delighted to find that the steps in the gully were reasonably solid and not too deep. Clearly they had been made before today. Progress was therefore easy and rapid. When I got up near the upper section of the gully I did a brief detour to see what the conditions were like on the open ground to the left. What looked like promising snow-ice was soft and cruddy and slid off the rocks in sheets. I stuck to the gully. Winter conditions make Curve a spectacular place to be. It was a simple joy to climb up through the deep upper section and feel secure in the good conditions. I saw a bit of video of rivers of Graupel flowing down the gully the previous week and I was grateful for the conditions today. 

Looking up in the upper section.

Looking down.

I topped out to a calm snow covered summit that was trying hard to break through the wispy cloud. With no views and it still being too early for lunch I decided to head down straight away. The track down towards the Devils Ladder was, as expected, well trodden and the going was rapid and easy. I decided to descend via the Heavenly Gates and this went very well. This route can be quite intimidating when it is banked out with heavy snow as the path is covered and the ground is steep. I remember once doing it with full snow cover and with the added spice of blizzard conditions. I was very relieved to reach the KMR hut that day. Today however was a different story and it was a pleasure to cross the spectacular ground. The views down to Lough Gouragh and Lough Callee were almost aerial and of course the East Reeks were spectacular beyond. I kept the crampons on until below the Heavenly Gates and thereafter it was easy going back to the car. It had been a very enjoyable outing. I was perhaps a little disappointed not to have done the Step but Curve delivered once again. Maybe winter will provide another chance before it ends.

Ice Climbing on Carrauntoohil...Curve Gully

 

After a stellar period of dry frosty weather, I guess it would have been remiss not to visit Carrauntoohil and have a look and see if ice had formed. On Thursday morning I arranged to meet with Connie Looney and we headed back to have a look at Curve Gully. The temperature was reading -6 as I drove back to meet him and promised to remain close to freezing through the day. We brought our axes and crampons and set off into the Hags Glen on a beautiful, calm, cold weather morning.

It was great to be out with Connie again and the chat flowed as we walked. I was surprised that there wasn't more people about as I thought the great weather might have tempted more people to get out. Still I guess ice wasn't quite as big a draw as snow. There had been a very slight dusting of the white stuff on the mountains that made the scene look even better as we entered the glen. Before long we crossed the stream and began the stiff pull up into the spectacular levels of Coumeenoughter. Once we reached the first level we were joined by another climber called Dave who was also heading for Curve. The waterfall between level 1 and 2 was completely frozen and would have offered good, if a little sketchy climbing. We weren't really tempted and continued up. Before we reached the bottom of the gully we passed the excellent ice climb called The Lick. It looked to be in good condition but, as today it consisted entirely of water ice, it would have been quite a tough outing and definitely have required gear.

Heading in.

What I think is the crux. Sporty with 1 axe.

Above the crux..easier ground

Right from the start Curve was fat with ice and offered great climbing. I took one axe off the bag, and after putting on the crampons we set off up. After the initial step over a rock the narrow steep section just beyond is I think the hardest section of the climb. The ice was a little sparse but good enough and it soon passed. Easy going follows up through more open ground until, a little below  where the gully deepens and cuts straight up towards the summit. Here some nice sections up through some slabby rock keep things interesting. From there all the way to the top, some great little sections of bulging fat toffy ice was a joy to climb. Things are never very steep but water ice deserves respect and a little care is required. I would say that the route offers a very very nice grade 2 climb in icy conditions. When banked out with snow it gives a grade 1 climb. It is a long climb and by the time we reached the summit we had been on ice for 300 metres. It was a joy to reach the top and enter a calm sunny wonderland. We enjoyed a bite to eat and descended the Heavenly Gates and back to the car. 

Dave cruising it..Entering the upper section

Fat with ice

What a day to be on the summit.

It had been a fabulous outing in wonderful company. Thank you Connie.

Carrauntoohil...Easy Winter Climbing...Curve Gully and the Grey Area

A cold snap and a reasonable snow fall on the mountains was enough to tempt me to rise early and head back to The Reeks in the hope of getting some winter climbing done. I shook the dust off the ice axes and shoved the crampons into the bag and headed west. It was a lovely morning. Perhaps not as cold as I had hoped as the temperature hovering just above zero while I drove in the dark towards Killarney. Still as long as there wasn't a huge thaw wintry conditions should be found on high. It was a beautiful dawn. First the sky turned red and once I was beyond the town the first rays of sun hit the snow clad mountain tops and it was indescribably beautiful. The early start was worth the effort just to witness this sight. As I drove in towards Cronin's Yard the view into the Hags Glen over the woods and then across the plain towards the Dingle Peninsula, which glowed pink in the morning sun, was also very special.

The Slieve Mish looking rosy

I parked my car and I was on the move at 08.20. It was calm and in the still air it wasn't too long before the gloves and hat came off. It is always a joy to regard the shapely peak of Carrauntoohil as you walk into the glen but today it was especially lovely with its dusting of snow down to below 700 metres. Indeed the full horseshoe was lovely and each route offered different adventures. Today I hoped to head up The Step which would offer a nice Grade2 outing so I headed up into Coumeenoughter. As I got nearer the mountain it became clear that the amount of snow down below 750 metres was pretty sparse and nothing in the way of ice was in evidence. When I reached the second level it was clear that The Step was not in condition and neither was the bottom section of Curve Gully so I continued on to the third level. Here thankfully things felt and looked more wintry and I headed up towards the upper section of Curve. The Grey Area looked properly snowed and rimed up so I decided to include that in my day as well. Before I entered the gully I put on the crampons and got the axes out and I must say it felt great to be getting a proper taste of winter.

Inviting or what?

Not exactly plastered

The second level

The upper part of Curve

The gully was nicely snow covered but not banked out and a little ice and firm snow coupled with turf that held the axe nicely made it a delight to climb. It was pretty straightforward though so I decided after rising sixty or seventy metres to break out and up to the left and climb the remainder of the way to the summit in the Grey Area. Exiting the gully provided perhaps thirty or so metres of wonderful interesting fun Grade 2 climbing. Nice firm turf made for secure axe placements and plenty of rime and frozen snow made it a joy to climb. Once above this the going averages about 45 degrees and some nice rocky spurs gave some nice mixed climbing. All too soon the summit arrived and I relaxed awhile in the calm weather and enjoyed the wonderful views in the odd light that winter can sometimes provide. Once I stopped climbing I realized that I was actually quite tired so I decided to descend via the Devils Ladder. It must be a couple of years since I last went down this way and I enjoyed it. It was ice and snow free so the going was easy. I sat at the bottom and enjoyed my lunch and savoured the magnificence of my surroundings. Back to the car about five hours after I set off and I was well satisfied with my morning. Here's hoping for more chances to get the hardware out this winter..

Quite steep in the Grey Area

Amazing views in all directions

Desperately Seeking Winter...Another Try For Some Climbing

Snow to 600mtrs on Thursday followed by decent frosts on Friday and Saturday nights and a decidedly chilly minus 5 last night 😎 meant I was quite hopeful that the north face of Carrauntoohil would offer some proper winter climbing. Unfortunately as is so often the case hereabouts by the time I was leaving the car at 9.15 at Lisliebane it was +1 degrees and cloud covered the mountains. The severe overnight frost had worked its magic on the turf which was hard and dry but it was obvious it was going to be a race against time to beat the thaw. Not that I was in much form for racing as I had come direct from work and for some reason I had decided that it was a good idea to bring a full winter bag including helmet, harness, some gear and two axes plus of course crampons.

Not much sign of winter

Looking down the start of Curve Gully. I sometimes find this area quite tricky

The exit out of the gully. Straight up just right of centre

It was steeper that I had initially thought..Bomber turf helped 😅

The cloud was down at 600mtrs and there wasn't a smidgen of the white stuff to be seen. It was also quite breezy and this confirmed as much as anything else that a change in the weather was well underway. I made my way up into the second level of Coumeenoughter and finally reached some snow here. I had thought "The Step" might have made a worthy outing but, what I could see of it through the mist showed that it was completely bare low down so I continued on to the base of Curve Gully. Some old snow remained here from the previous snowfall so I finally got the crampons on and got the axes in hand and set off up. A little ice umbrella at the first step made it an interesting start and the next higher step was  almost completely snow free so I went up the right wall and this offered nice Grade2 climbing for a few moves with nice frozen turf for the picks to bite into. Above that the conditions were rubbish all the way to the narrow upper half of the gully. Even here it wasn't great so after a short while I broke out left towards the Grey Area. An initial twenty metre section gave very nice climbing on crusty snow but some very nice frozen turf made things a bit more secure. This was top end Grade2 but it was over all too soon and after that it was a bit of a slog upwards and leftwards to reach more entertaining ground. This was a rocky ridge where a little rime ice and crusty snow. It was easy but fun and before I knew it I arrived at the turn back sign near the summit cross. The thaw hadn't reached here yet and the strong wind made it an easy decision to head down. I descended via the Heavenly Gates again and made my back to the car in the wind and light drizzle. Wintry it had been and I enjoyed the outing but it wasn't what I had hoped to find conditions wise. Still there is still hope and time to get more climbing done this winter...❆❆❆

Final ridge