Mount Brandon..Stradbally...and world class beaches

Friday July 26th;

I went for a two day (well day and a half) trip to one of my favourite places the Dingle Peninsula on Friday morning to try and fit a combination of mountain, sun and sea into the trip. I packed up all my camping gear with the intention of staying at one of the campsites on the Maherees and set off early doors for the west.
It was lovely and warm at home but as often happens the cloud cover increased the further west I went and the tops of the mountains were well covered. Some rain drifted across the valleys and the temperature had dropped as well and it was down to just 17 degrees by the time I parked in the beautiful village of Cloghane. I didn't let the less than perfect weather bother me though...oh no I had other reasons to be a little pissed off. I had discovered that, even though I had loaded up the car with all the paraphernalia required for a short camping trip I had neglected to include one basic thing...my tent😡. What a complete numpty I am. So it is fair to say I was less than pleased when I set off into the beautiful wide valley between Brandon Peak and Sleivanea. My mood soon improved as I went on as it is hard not to become consumed by the beauty of this place. Soon I reached the turn for lake and once the track ended I crossed the outlet and I began my climb up the spur that rises to Gearane. Steep and unremitting for 600 metres it is a good test of the legs. I was pleased with how it went for me but once I reached the cloud it became quite chilly and coupled with the wind it was necessary to put my jacket and gloves on. With nothing in the way of views it was just a case of putting the head down and pushing on. Brandon Peak and then Brandon itself passed in the fog and rather than continuing along the ridge I dropped down into the wild coum and followed the normal route down to the grotto. Once under the cloud the views to the village at the head of the bay were as usual lovely. I hadn't met anyone while on the ridge but several groups were coming up against me as I went down. I arrived back at the car and decided what I was going to do next.

Back under the cloud..Cloghane bay below

I had resigned myself to returning home that evening but first things first, I was going for a swim. I drove the short distance to the nearby Fermoyle beach and headed for the water. The day was improving and here, away from the mountains the sun was shining. I had my usual doubts as I neared the water. Knowing that it would be cold and thinking that I wouldn't enjoy getting in made me question myself but I banished the negativity and walked into the onrushing wavelets.It wasn't too bad at all and after one or two gasps I was plunging into an oncoming breaker. It was exhilarating. Each wave surged and lifted and I was enthralled by the sensory delights of the experience. Clouds steamed off the summits of the nearby mountains. The water was blue and really pleasant and it is fair to say that the beach wasn't exactly overcrowded. When the weather is like this then there can be fewer places to come as close to the perfection of Brandon Bay. After five minutes or half an hour (who is counting) I returned to the car and changed. The body was aglow after the healing waters but now I had to make a choice as to what to do next. I went to nearby Castlegregory and while enjoying a coffee I rang a couple of B&Bs and I booked myself into one. It was actually in the village and I was soon settled. That evening I went to the stunning beach on the west side of the Maherees and walked in the waters edge for half an hour and enjoyed the sunset. It was truly beautiful and even though I had missed out on the camping experience I was a very happy man as I returned to my room. It had, after all been a really good day.
17 kilometres...1280 metres ascent and same descent...4 hours 30 minutes and a swim👍

Not a bad spot for a dip

Evening on the Maherees

Saturday July 27th;

A gargantuan breakfast of eggs,bacon,sausages and beans at 8am set me up nicely for the day ahead. I had to be at work for 7pm so a short day was the plan and a straight up and back to Stradbally mountain seemed to fit the bill. I drove the couple of kilometres to the main road and at the forestry entrance I parked up and set off . Clouds shrouded the hills again and occasional spits of rain were on the go but it felt good to be on the move again. The going is very easy for the first few kilometres as you follow the forest road up though the woods until finally, after passing a telecoms mast you emerge onto open mountain. One thing that struck me straight away was how much more complex the ground is. From below it looks like a plain slope that rises smoothly up to the main ridge but once out on the open ground then there are some gentle ridges and undulations and there was much more of an open feel than was evident from down below. The gentle going of before was now in the past and I set off up across the pathless heathery ground in a direct line for the highest point of the ridge. The cloud was down at about the 650 metre mark so views would be at a premium today as well but I was looking forward to the outing just the same. Once I crossed a stream I reached a wire fence and this I followed up to the crest of the ridge and once there it was a simple matter of sticking to it all the way to the summit. The cloud lifted with me and some sunshine broke the gloom but the views stayed absent. I decided to include Benoskee in my walk and this added some time and metres to the day. Despite the lack of views I found myself with a big grin on my face when the sun burst through. It was great to be out. I returned by the same route I went up and in typical fashion the cloud lifted as I descended but I didn't mind a bit.

Back under the clouds and things clearing nicely

The Maherees stretch away

 As I got lower my eyes were on the beauty of the blue ocean and I scanned the ground to see which section of beach I would head for once down. On the west side of the Marherees the sea was calm but on the ocean side there was plenty of breakers so that was where I opted for. I drove to Stradbally strand near the golf course and I wasted no time in heading for the water. Breakers there certainly was aplenty and at times it was akin to being in a washing machine but it was great fun all the same. At times it was wonderful to simply gaze around in wonder at the simple beauty of this stunning place. No high rise hotels to be found here, just mile after mile of near empty perfect beach and a stunning mountain backdrop. I felt fortunate indeed. A half hour later I was hurriedly putting on my clothes before setting off on the 70 mile journey home. Legs a little tired after a workout and skin aglow. It had been another good day.
13 kilometres...880 metres ascent and descent...3 hours 25 minutes 🌊

Stradbally strand

The Magillycuddy Reeks-Three Great Ridges and Glenbeigh Horseshoe

Sunday July 14th

It can be strange to revisit your home mountains after visiting somewhere like the Alps. After 13 wonderful days hiking in the finest of mountain scenery, I was a little apprehensive that I might go to The Reeks, and find them somehow lessened, or diminished, in my esteem. I needn't have worried. When I went back on Sunday, in a glorious weather day, I was enchanted and excited, even as I drove into Cronins Yard.

Starting up towards Cruach Mhór

Always an inspiring sight  Carrauntoohil

The way Cruach Mhór towers over the valley as you drive in, never fails to inspire. It definitely is the best way to approach these mountains. It being such a nice day, I was determined to make the most of it, so I decided to have a go at doing the "Three Ridges". This, as well as offering one of the best hiking experiences in the country, can, I guess, be classed as a mountaineering day, as in the middle of it, you climb Howling Ridge, a classic VDiff route. I parked up at the super busy Cronins Yard. Carrauntoohil has become something of a circus these days. The numbers climbing it on a fine summers day, can now be numbered, I would guess, in the thousands at the weekend. There is a booming industry surrounding the mountain, with guiding companies being kept very busy year round. Cronins Yard has been at the centre of life on this mountains for many decades...first as a place that offered access and sanctuary to the mountain rescue, whenever they went about their vital work, and also, as a place to park and meet old friends. They have been expanding their facilities over the years, until today, wonderful tearooms, toilets, changing facilities, as well as self catering and camping, can all be enjoyed. Parking costs just €2 per car, which is super value, and this is in stark contrast to parking costs in Wales and the Lake District.

I was tempted to go for a dip

From the summit across the glen

After a brief chat with John, I set off towards the Hags Glen. Once I passed the Black Stream, I was able to leave the crowds behind, and I set off up across the boggy slope, towards Cruach Mhór. It was sunny and warm, and soon the sweat was flowing. The climb up to the lake goes on and on, and the energy sapping ground, make it a challenge every time. The relief to finally stop, and enjoy a long drink of cool water from the lake, was the reward, before setting off again, on the steep climb to the summit of the first of seven 3000ft peaks. Now the fun begins. As Tom Hutton once described it, in a magazine article he wrote, ( for a British audience), "this is the best ridge you never heard of", and of course he is right. While the Beenkeragh Ridge gets more attention, as it is part of a route to or from Carrauntoohil, the Cnoc na Péiste Ridge offers a more exciting, narrower, more sustained outing, and if you opt for all the best bits, I would say it is a solid Grade 2 scramble. Warm rock made it a pure joy to cross the ridge, and I made sure to stick faithfully to the crest. Once on the summit of Cnoc na Péiste (988mtrs), it is easy going all the way to Cnoc an Chuillinn (958mtrs), and I was loving every step. I have good hill fitness, and with the walking easy, and the situation so spectacular, it is easy to have a good time. I wasn't completely alone, but the East Reeks were very far from crowded, or even busy.
This all changed of course, when after a quick lunch stop on Cnoc na Toinne, I reached the Zig Zags, which is fast becoming the descent route of choice from Carrauntoohil. As I neared the Devils Ladder the large number of hikers heading up the eroded trail to the summit could be seen. It is not a place for quiet reflection. I headed towards the Heavenly Gates, and I was once again in quietude. I always feel a sense of excitement as I near the base of Howling Ridge. It is set among a series of spectacular ridges, and there is definitely a high mountain feel to the place. As I reached the base, I could see a group higher up that were pitching the route. I hoped they would be easy to get by when I reached them. In my less than practiced state when it comes to climbing, I was feeling a bit of self doubt before I set off up, but I reminded myself to take my time..be sure of each hold, and I would be fine. This I did, and indeed, I was. Soon all that matters is the rock before you, and I was once again engrossed in, and enjoying the climb. I reached the group and climbed up past them. They were being led by two seasoned campaigners from Killarney Mountaineering Club, who I used to climb with in the past. I pushed on through, and all too soon I was up at the pinnacles, and then it was all over. The ensuing 150 metre climb to the summit was tough, but passed soon enough, and I was once again in the hoards, as I stopped on the summit for another bite to eat.

The Cnoc na Péiste Ridge

Big crowds out...people lining the track all the way to the top

A group heading up Howling Ridge

The group at "The Finger"..Spectacular place

After that I set off across the Beenkeragh Ridge, and again I stuck to the crest. The best scrambling is at the start, but it is short lived, and soon I was on the point on the ridge called The Bones. The view back to the north face of Carrauntoohil is great. I was surprised to see two guys heading down very steep ground towards O'Sheas Gully. It seemed that they had decided to take a direct line down towards the gully, shortly after passing Tripod Gully. One fella disturbed some rocks, and these crashed down into O'Sheas gully, not far from where another group were descending. It was a fraught situation. I shouted over at the guys, and after several attempts, I got there attention. I indicated that they should head to their left, and to be fair they complied straight away, and soon found a route to safer ground. My good deed done for the day, I set off for Beenkeragh, and enjoyed the rest of the route. On the descent you cross over the twin topped Knockbrinnea (854 mtrs), where the wonderful view of Carrauntoohil, offers yet more eye candy, before the long descent to the valley. This went smoothly, and before too long, I was back in Cronins Yard, enjoying delicious coffee and apple tart. It had been a wonderful day.

16 Kilometres...1780 metres climbing...6 hours 25 minutes.

Monday July 15th

I had camped overnight in the village of Glenbeigh, and my aim today, was to to the Coumasaharn Horseshoe. The amazing weather of yesterday, with the clear blue skies, was absent, and a warm, muggy, cloudy morning greeted me, when I exited my tent. I drove to near the shore of the spectacularly situated Coumasaharn Lake, and started my hike from there. Starting so far into the glen, limits the range of routes you can do, as to do an extended hike from here, would mean walking a fair old way, on the road, at the end. Today, I decided to keep it simple, and just do a circuit of this lake. Thankfully, all but the highest top was cloud free, so navigation would be simple. Straight away the climbing is steep, as I took a direct line up through the craggy ground of Knocknaman. This got the blood pumping, and I even managed to pick out a few nice scrambly bits on the way. After 400 steep metres, the gradient eases right back, and easy walking follows as you head towards Meenteog. The broad spur offers fine views across the huge and complex coum towards Drung hill. The Reeks were shrouded in cloud, and distant views were hazy at best.

After Meenteog, the route follows the ridge, as it swings west towards Coomacarrea, which at 772 metres, is the highest in the area. The views down to the lake, and the convoluted mix, of steep cliffs and gullies, is wonderful. I must venture in as far as the back of the lake sometime, to get a view of all this from below. The 170 metre pull to the high point, is really the end of the climbing, and easy walking follows, as you basically follow the rim of coum, until you can cross the narrow ridge to Teeromoyle Tooth, after which, a super easy descent of the northwest spur, sees you reach a farm road. Follow this, until you pass above the first few houses, and when you reach an old farm shed, turn right onto the road, and then easily back to the car. After the rigours of yesterday, today was a much easier outing, and that was no harm. Less than 12 kilometres...710 metres of climbing, in a leisurely 3 hours 30 minutes.

 It is a lovely place, and is definitely worth the effort to get to. Wild coums, in which nestle sparkling lakes, all surrounded by wide boggy ridges, and views, from the nearby sea, to the mighty Reeks. Whats not to like?. To finish off the outing, I went for a dip in the sea at Rossbeigh beach. It was the first time this year, and I was bracing myself for a frigid experience, but I was delighted to find, the water was not too bad at all. Dunking myself in the breakers was thrilling, and I was loving it. Now, that I know the water is good, I hope to combine more mountain days with a dip in the sea..Perfec

A traverse of the Dingle Peninsula (The Haute Route)

A good weather forecast and a few days off coincided so I headed to Tralee on the train with my fully laden rucksack and set off on a three day quest to do a full traverse of the beautiful Dingle Peninsula.

Friday May 3rd;

 I alighted from the train in a sunny Tralee at 11am and boarded the bus heading for Dingle. I went as far as the nearby village of Blennerville where I left the bus and treated myself to a coffee and the biggest slice of "Rocky Road" I have ever seen. So suitably overdosed on sugar I set off on my long walk at 11.45.

Back towards Tralee

Rough ground all the way to the ridge.

Initially I walked the kilometre or so along the busy road (this can be avoided) but then I joined the lane that rises gently up towards the open mountain beyond. The weather was glorious, with a gentle breeze and plenty of sunshine. By the time I reached the end of the road I was sweating from carrying the heavy bag and still wearing my jacket. I took off a layer and had a drink and set off into the wild. My plan was simple. To reach the crest/spine of the mountains and basically follow this, crossing over the mountain tops all the way to the furthest extreme of the peninsula. This would take me three days and should offer a proper wild mountain experience. First up though I had to reach the crest and this involved a lengthy slog up gentle but boggy ground. I was aiming to reach the crest at around the 450 metre contour and this was about a kilometre west of the communication masts. Straight away once the laneway is left behind there is a wild feel. This only increases the further up the mountain you progress and very quickly the only noise I could hear (besides my laboured breathing) was a distant Cuckoo and the trill of a Skylark. The sun had retreated behind some clouds and with arctic air flowing over the country it was suddenly decidedly chilly. Back on went the coat which was later joined by hat and gloves. Winter wasn't that long ago after all.

View towards Iveragh

The way ahead is much more serpentine than appears from below

Despite the late start I wasn't worried about time as there was a long evening ahead and sunset wasn't until after 9pm. That isn't to say I was taking it easy and I kept up a good pace on the climb to the crest. As I neared the crest the wind increased further and it was now at times buffeting. A layer of cloud clung to the highest tops but elsewhere the views were wonderful and extensive. Now I know I have been here before but it is always exciting to reach the crest of a ridge when suddenly your views are doubled and the landscape beyond is revealed. Here the delights of the Iveragh Peninsula with its wild mountains is a joy to behold as it stretches out into the Atlantic on the other side of Dingle Bay. Indeed I could see further and the mountains stretched away to the east as far as my local hill Mount Hillary some fifty miles away. Behind me the delights of Tralee bay and the myriad of sandy beaches stretched into the north Kerry landscape. I was loving it. Now I had covered about 6 kilometres and climbed nearly 500 metres and I was well and truly into the outing. Easier walking on better ground followed as I passed over the tops of Barnanageehy, Knockauncorragh and Glanbrack on the serpentine ridge. Height is gradually gained and finally I reached the 200 metre slog to the stony summit of Bartregaum (851 metres). With cloud scudding across the chilly bleak summit I didn't delay and I set off towards Caherconree. Briefly I emerged under the clouds at the col between the summits and next up came the gentle 130 metre pull to the top. Again cloud spoiled the view so I turned and headed towards the ancient promontory fort on the shoulder of the mountain. I was soon under the cloud again and the views towards Inch and west towards Benoskee were gorgeous. I had now covered 16 kilometres and my thoughts were turning towards finding somewhere to camp for the night.

Descending Caherconree

Stunning views to the last hills of the day

Back to Caherconree

Starting the final descent. Camped near the small patch of forestry on the right.

I dropped easily along the boggy path towards the little road that rises from the village of Camp and once across this I headed for the outlier of the Slieve Mish range, Moanlaur 566 metres. Though more modest in height this is still rough wild ground and the climb up through heathery ground to Knockbrack and then to the main summit added another 300 metres of climbing to the day. Fatigue was becoming more of a factor so once I had dropped down the 250 metres on the northern flanks to the flat boggy ground below I was fully focused on finding a spot for my tent. This I found a couple of kilometres further on beside a metalled bog road and soon my home for the night was up. It was now nearly 19.30 so the day had taken over seven and a half hours. I had covered 24 kilometres and climbed nearly 1300 metres. It had been a worthy start to the trip. I enjoyed a hot meal and the remaining evening light before retiring to bed in the gloom. I hadn't seen another soul once I left the road and the only sounds to be heard was the call of birdsong. I slept well.

Room with a view for night 1

My old Alpkit Delta enjoying a rare outing

Saturday May 4th;

An insomniac skylark woke me before dawn but I was soon off into lala land again nice and snug in my down sleeping bag. I emerged at 6.30 into a beautiful calm bright morning and what a joy it was to breakfast in the wild and wonderful place. I was all packed up and ready to go at 07.15 and it was just a short walk along the road to reach the main Tralee to Dingle road and once across this I was once again on open ground and I followed the gently rising ridge that headed for the hills above Annascaul. This made for a delightful gentle start to the day and the views to the sea on either side were wonderful. Things gradually get tougher as the terrain gets boggier and going up and over Knocknakilton with its myriad of peat hags and holes makes for tiring progress. The breeze was quite strong and chill so it was another coat and hat day, despite the sun. Finally I reached the col under Dromavally Mountain where I left the worst of the ground behind and started up the 250 metre pull to the 552 metre summit. Time was slipping by quite quickly and it was already after 11am so I had to stop here for a bite to eat in the shade of the large and complex bronze age cairn. As I rested I surveyed the ground ahead and decided that today I would take the tougher continuance and climb Stradbally and Benoskee instead of heading along the ridge that rises from the southern side of the wide expanse of bog that stretches west.

The locals weren't too bothered

The way ahead..towards Benoskee

The way way back

Pastoral foreground with The Reeks and Iveragh beyond

The walk above and around the back of Glanteenassig is lovely but soon I was down at the wide pass and I had to start my climb of Stradbally 798 metres. I would love to be able to say that the 350 metre climb flew by but it seemed in fact interminable but boy oh boy was the reward of the views worth the effort. It is a stunning viewpoint. Here you are basically in the very heart of the peninsula and the views back to the start are great but it is the majesty of the Brandon massif that takes the breath away. It seemed to beckon me on and reinvigorated me for the journey ahead. A short drop from the stony summit and it is an easy climb to reach the higher Benoskee (826 mtrs). Here I enjoyed my lunch and relaxed before dropping easily to the boggy plain below. Now some 500 metres lower I was faced with the energy sapping gradual ascent towards Slievanea. There is no easy way to do it as the wet ground saps the legs and seems to go on for ever. Eventually though, I reached the point where, after I had crossed the sizeable river before Slievenalecka, I had to contour around to the edge of the little lake and and then commence the very steep 250 metre climb to Slievanea. It was very tiring and when I reached the top (another amazing viewpoint) I rested awhile and once again my mind turned to finding somewhere to camp.  I contemplated going all the way to the lake under Fallaghnamara but that would take another two hours or so and I had already been on the move for nearly 9 and I was tired so I decided to pitch up at the nearest possible spot. I walked around to final top above Peddlars Lake and basically headed due south across the gently boggy slope and before too long I had found my home for the night. I had lovely views down to Dingle town and harbour and beyond to the Blasket Islands. I whiled away a very enjoyable evening in the quiet landscape and soaked in the views until the sun had set. Approx 25 kilometres covered with 1350 metres of ascent in just over 9 hours and I hadn't seen another soul all day today either.

Stradbally rising above Glanteenassig

Benoskee and the Brandon massif from Stradbally

The Maherees

The long bog slog with Slievanea on right...easier to follow the left crest

Campsite number two

Sunday May 5th;

There had been a frost overnight and I emerged into a bright clear morning with not a puff of wind. I quickly ate and packed up as it was quite cold but it was a lovely gentle start to the day as I descended to the Conner Pass. I was nice to be here before the masses arrived to enjoy the views but I must give a special mention to the total gobshite that left a few beer cans strewn in the carpark..what a despicable cretin. Anyway to better things.

A chilly start

I climbed away into the wilds again and soon my mind was more engrossed with the wonderful place I found myself in. The broad boggy summit of Ballysitteragh (623 metres) was a wonderful place to pause and enjoy the wonderful 360 degree panorama. Next comes the drop to the pass below Fallaghnamara and then more climbing as I headed towards Gearhane and Brandon Peak. The 400 metre climb is broken in the middle by the level ground beyond Fallaghnamara but it is fair to say I was warm by the time I crossed the "highest gate in Ireland" to reach Gearhane. It was just a stunning morning with warm sun and uninterrupted views in all directions. Things only get better as you head to Brandon Peak and here I stopped for a bit of sustenance.

What a morning. 

I still hadn't met another soul since I started out but I could see other hikers approaching as I headed towards Mount Brandon. Most of the climbing was done for the day except for the near 300 metre pull to the summit of one of my favourite mountains anywhere. It came as something of a shock to find myself in the midst of a group of fellow hikers after so much solitude so I didn't linger. I enjoyed some lunch and soon I was mostly on my own again as I headed along the beautiful ridge towards Masatiompán. A final push to this rounded top and then it was an easy thing to follow the Dingle Way down for a while before I crossed and followed the cliff edge. From the edge the views are predictably spectacular and I couldn't help but marvel at the place where people lived in the famine times. Living among the sloping stony paddocks, situated above the roaring seas and a full 1000 foot climb to exit the area, must have required incredible ingenuity and no small measure of desperation in order to survive. We are indeed fortunate to live when we do. Anyway a final drag saw me reach the 350 metre top at Breennaman and I then dropped to reach the trail that leads easily to the roadside. I briefly debated hitching to Dingle but instead I rang for a taxi which duly arrived and whisked me into the super busy town. Today's effort took me just 7 hours, covered over 21 kilometres and had over 1000 metres of climbing in truly spectacular scenery. I had time for a coffee and delicious cake before I caught the bus back to Tralee. It had been a delightful few days and I basked in the glow of having completed one of the finest wild walks in Ireland.  

Coastal walks to die for

What an extraordinary place to have to had to live

Puts it in context