Tuesday 1 March 2016

WINTER CLIMBING ON CARRAUNTOOHIL. "THE STEP" PLUS

Stunning view leaving Cronins Yard
A good dump of snow and a promise of a frosty night meant that Bridie, Denis and myself went back once again to Carrauntoohil in search of a quality winter climb. Having enjoyed a wonderful outing on the Grey Area in recent times, this time I thought the Grade 2 outing "The Step" would make a worthy outing. We reached the second level and arrived at the base of the climb. The bottom of the step is the most difficult section, and in proper cold conditions can offer an icy start with good axe placements, but today I wallowed and waded up through deep powder, and I had to climb the steep slabby left side of the gully. Its fair to say, that finding anything decent in the way of placements was tough and trusting the front-points in soft turf meant that at times things felt much tougher than Grade 2. I got over the difficulties and brought the guys up to join me. I looked up at the continuation of the route and lets just say the prospect of wading up through more deep powder for the rest of the way didn't appeal and I decided to go right to the base of the steeper mixed ground that formed the left side and overlooked "The Lick".
 
The green line is The Step (above the initial section) and the red line is the continuation we followed.


Looking up at the start of the route. A bit steeper than it looks here
Deciding to head up the rocky ground on top right instead of continuing up the snow of The Step
After crossing the deep snow on the right I arrived at a nice looking rocky section. It was steep but it looked okay so after setting up a belay I set off up. It was decidedly sketchy and exposed and I was glad to finally get over the difficulties and reach somewhat easier ground. It was just about 10 meters but the absence of any protection and having to scratch and scrape for foot and axe placements meant it was a high Grade3 section. I brought up Bridie and Denis and we continued up. The remainder was long and interesting and a mix of steep deep snow and rocky steps. We basically were able to look at "The Lick" on our right as we rose. There was some ice on that route but a lot of it was banked out and I guess it would have been pish lower down. We stuck faithfully to the ever narrowing ridge and eventually reached the end where we turned right and made our way up the final 50 meters or so to the cross. It had been a long and interesting outing covering around 300 meters of technical ground. We devoured a late lunch and descended via a well snowed up track all the way down to the bottom of the Heavenly Gates where we finally dispensed with the crampons. We arrived back at the car a full nine and a half hours after setting off, tired but very satisfied with our day. The Reeks were particularly wonderful looking. Next up hopefully more of the same for me in Scotland.
Following on after pitch three

Looking across to the East Reeks

Lovely winter conditions all the way up


People on the Benkeeragh Ridge

Looking across The Lick. Shows how steep the ground is.


Final section

Summit views across to Caher

Almost enough to make you forget the horrible winter

Thursday 25 February 2016

Carrauntoohil-Physio-Mangerton

Last Saturday I ventured back to Kerry with Denis and Bridie for another blast up Carrauntoohil. What a difference a week makes. After the beauty of the Grey Area last week we were face with strong winds and constant rain today. It was just a case of putting on all the rain gear and keeping the head down and ploughing on. We enjoyed the outing despite (or maybe because of ) the weather but it was still a relief to get back to the car and change into dry clothes and get warm. The wind on the summit was pretty severe and I was at times concerned that one of us could be whipped to one side and onto steep ground but thankfully we were fine.

Since before Christmas I have been struggling with a knee injury and it just wasn't going away. I had hoped that it would get better by it self but if anything it was getting steadily worse and in the high winds the knee got a couple of jarring twists and it was really quite painful that evening and the following day. I had been to the doctor about it and she recommended physio so I bowed to the inevitable and booked myself in for a session on Monday afternoon. I have never had physio before and lets just say it was an experience. She managed to find knots in the knots in my muscles and before she was through I was literally sweating from the pain. Her strength as an Irish rugby international was in evidence and I was sure she was having a bad day. The 45 minutes passed and I could breathe again but it definitely was a huge help. My symptoms were immediately better and the loosening of muscles and hamstrings eased the pain on the torn Medial Ligament I had.

Crohane and The Paps beyond

Looking to the impressive cliffs that overlook The Horses Glen
I went for another session (much less painful) this morning and I felt great afterwards. Walking down the town I realized just how poorly I had been walking of late and it being such a good day I decided to head for a quick up and down of Mangerton. Ruby decided she would like a hike as well so we both set off together. Light and easy was the order of the day and I really enjoyed it. The views into the Black Valley are great but it was my progress on the injury front that really buoyed my spirits. I could still feel it but it was definitely better and I can see light at the end of the tunnel. It was also delightful to have Ruby along for company and it brought home once again how badly served we are here with the access restrictions we face. I can of course understand the need to control dogs but a well trained animal which is kept under close control (not necessarily on a lead) posed no threat to anything and should be allowed. Anyway rant over. I really enjoyed the 2 hours 30 minutes in the wilds. Hopefully I will be able to get back running again soon.
Small dog in big spaces

The frosty nights had wrought their stuff

Heading down

Into the Black Valley

Saturday 13 February 2016

Winter Grade 2 Climb: The Grey Area Carrauntoohil


February 13th,
Today I went with Denis and his sometime climbing companion Bridie for another climb on Carrauntoohil. It had been cold-ish over the past few days and there was some snow lying on The Reeks. I wasn't over hopeful of good conditions but we decided to to bring back crampons and axe and see what the day brought. I thought that "The Grey Area" would be a good option and so it proved. This area is the wide steep area of mixed ground that sits between Curve Gully and The Lick. It offers a great variety of climbing where you can pick and choose the type of ascent you want to make with most of it going at around the Grade 2 or 3 mark (if you pick the spiciest bits). It can offer excellent mixed climbing with a mixture of frozen turf and icy rocks and the enjoyment only ends when you arrive at the cross. The forecast was for rain to arrive around midday so I wasn't expecting great things (bad weather usually arrives earlier than expected hereabouts) so it was a delight to be well into our descent before the rain arrived.

They wouldn't wait for me...

The north spur of Cuillin


Ready for the good stuff

Lots of options
The snow wasn't to be found in any great quantity until we reached the third level and here it was soft and there was nothing in the way of ice to be seen. Anyway we climbed up as far as the shallow middle section of  Curve Gully and here we crossed and made our way up steeply to the first of the steep steps that lay ahead. Here we donned crampons and roped up and I led off. Greasy snow covered rocks and unfrozen turf was the order of the day and it is fair to say that things weren't in good condition which actually made for more tenuous progress as there was precious little in the way of good axe placements to be found. It was still great fun however and as usual when I was in the middle of the climb my I found myself enjoying it immensely. After about 25 meters I brought Bridie and Denis up and then set off up again. The first sixty meters were actually the most difficult in the way of climbing and were touching on Grade 111 and it was a real eye-opener at the belay to look back and appreciate the grave consequences of a fall from here. Conditions started to improve from here (a bit) and easier ground was interrupted by short steep sections. We mostly moved together up here with me giving body belays to the guys on the steeper bits. Up and up and things got better and better and we were delighted to be in this winter wonderland. Bridie and Denis had just returned from a Scottish mountaineering trip and they both professed that today was as delightful (if not more so) than any day the had had there.


I think they were enjoying it.

Conditions getting better


For the final seventy or eighty meters we climbed lovely iced up rocky ground and a nice little ridge until we suddenly found ourselves almost level with the summit cross. There wasn't a puff of breeze and we were almost entirely cloud free. It was proving to be a pet day and we walked to the cross and enjoyed a well deserved rest and bite to eat and reveled in the glow that comes when you finish a lovely climb. In the still air it felt quite mild and there is no doubt that the temperature was above freezing. We contemplated going across the Benkeeragh ridge but when we reached the top of O'Sheas gully the rocks on the ridge were completely snow and ice free so we turned and headed down from here. The rain stayed away until we reached the first level but it wasn't too heavy. We arrived back in Cronins Yard and enjoyed excellent refreshments and were very happy bunnies. If only we could get some proper frosty nights then the Grey Area would offer truly excellent sport. I look forward to returning there soon.
Actually a bit steeper than it looks

Lovely mixed ground

And there's more

I'm not sure Bridie knew the danger :o)