A Wintry Magillycuddy Reeks. February 2022.

 I finished nights on Thursday morning and, being determined to make the most of the few days available to me before I start seven 12 hour days, I forwent bed and loaded up the car with my hiking and fishing gear and headed west.

The forecast for the next couple of days was mixed. Today was to be breezy, cold and dry but tomorrow was to get quite windy and rain was due in by midday. As I was going to be passing close to The Reeks while on my way west I decided that a climb of Carrauntoohil would be just the ticket to rid myself of any sleep cobwebs. One thing that struck me as I drove back was the dusting of snow on the mountaintops. Hmmm, perhaps I should have brought an ice axe or crampons?. Ah well, it was too late now. I parked in Lisliebane and set off into the glen shortly after 10am. My oh my, what a glorious morning. Mostly clear skies allowed me to admire the beautiful snow capped peaks ahead. A stiff chilly breeze cleared the sinuses but it wasn't too bad and I was looking forward to the day ahead. As I walked in the track I briefly was temped to climb up The Bone first and then turn and head for Carrauntoohil. I decided against that route as I would be heading into the wind while on top. As I reckoned it would perhaps be a war of attrition on that direction I decided to climb in an anti clockwise direction instead. As I went further into the glen my eye was drawn towards the steep ground that rises directly to Knockbrinnea and on a whim I decided to climb up that way

The view to Beenkeragh and Carrauntoohil from Knockbrinnea

If I wasn't warm by now I soon would be as I started up the unrelenting steep 550mtr climb. On the previous Sunday I went to Dungarvan to run in the 10 mile race. It didn't go well and I suffered badly for most of the run. I was feeling quite sorry for myself for a few days after so a day on the mountains was just the tonic I needed to restore my confidence. On the climb I kept up a steady pace and I was able to gain height quite quickly. The views back down into the glen became more spectacular and the East Reeks and beyond were very special. As I passed above the "Hags Fingers" I was briefly enveloped in cloud and a light snow shower. It only added to the enjoyment of the day. As I had now reached the snow line I had to be a bit more careful as I climbed up the sometimes rocky slopes. The wind was getting stronger and it really felt quite wintry by now. I was loving it. The angle eases back as you near the summit of Knockbrinnea and now the views west towards Inch and Dingle can be enjoyed on top of the nearby glories. Next up comes Beenkeragh.The 200 metre climb passed easily enough but some care was required near the top as I climbed up the icy rocks. It promised to be interesting when I crossed the ridge towards Carrauntoohil.

Carrauntoohil from Beenkeragh

Caher

West towards Coumasaharn

The frozen summit of Beenkeragh was no place to tarry in the biting wind so I wasted no time in setting off on the ridge. First up came the descent. This was straightforward enough once I took my time and made sure of each foot placement  on the icy rocks. Once down, there follows a super enjoyable walk along the good track until you reach the narrow rocky crux of the ridge. I decided to stick to the crest on this section and it worked out well. Good care is needed here but there are ample placements for foot and hand and safe progress can be made. The drop towards the top of O'Sheas Gully is probably the trickiest section of the route in the conditions. Once at the top of the gully another climb is needed to reach the top of Carrauntoohil. Again, some care is needed to surmount the icy sections but soon enough I was on the icebound top. I briefly thought I had the summit to myself (a rare thing these days) but I spotted a few people sheltering from the wind at the stony shelter. I decided to head towards the ladder and have a spot of lunch nearer there. There were a few other climbers out but all in all the mountains were quiet and I had most of the route entirely to myself. After lunch I climbed Cnoc na Toinne, which is one of my favourite places on the ridge. Here you are literally in the heart of the range, and despite being at 840 metres the mountains either side look large and imposing. This spot is also the best (or worst) place to experience the fury of spindrift. Today was no exception and as I crossed the top I had to shelter my eyes from the probing shards of snow. It was invigorating.

The East Reeks

Looking towards Kenmare Bay

As I approached Cnoc an Cuillin I was again overtaken by a wintry squall that only added to the atmosphere of the day. It soon passed and by the time I was on the top the views were again extensive and wonderful. I continued easily on the ridge as far as Maolan Bui (The Bone) and descended easily from there all the way back to the glen floor. I arrived back at the car almost five and a half hours after setting off, tired for sure but also enthused and invigorated. About 14 kilometres covered but over 1500 metres climbing had made it a substantial outing.  It had been a stunning day....and it wasn't over yet.

Into the wonderful Brida Valley

Towards Mangerton and Killarney

Next up came the drive as far as Rossbeigh beach, where after spending an hour digging for lugworm, I set up my rods and prepared for several hours of surf angling. The breeze was forecast to die as darkness arrived and so it came to pass. It made for a very enjoyable experience to relax and watch the rods into the night. It was all the more special as the bass were about and in the mood for food. First cast I brought in the first of several fish and of course no session would be complete without the inevitable losses. It proved to be great sport and before I knew it it was nearly 10pm.I returned to my car and drove the short distance to the back of the beach and  soon I had my tent up and I was settled for the night. I have to add that strictly speaking camping is forbidden here, but I reckoned that in winter and it being from late at night to early morning I would be okay. So it proved to be. It had been an excellent tiring but fun filled day. 

Stoompa to Mangerton Horseshoe.

 

The weather has been really quite good for the time of year. It was an especially good forecast for today so I decided that it would be a shame not to have a day on the mountains. With that in mind I decided that Mangerton would make a nice outing. It was therefore something of a disappointment to emerge from the house to an overcast dreary morning and a steady drizzle falling. Ah well, I wasn't going to let a little drizzle stop me and perhaps things would be better further west. The precipitation stopped as I drove back but the cloud and mist was pervasive and obscured all views.

I arrived at the start just after 10am and after suiting up I set off in along the heavily eroded trail. I decided to go across the rough ground and go to the summit via the Horses Glen. There wasn't a puff of breeze and in the low misty cloud things were quite atmospheric and calming. When I reached in by the lake I had a change of heart and decided to climb Stoompa and do a high level circuit of the glen instead. I reasoned that it was seldom so calm and it would be very pleasant up high. The vie from the end of the lake to the rugged entrance to the glen is one of my favourites and I paused awhile to admire it before heading up the (initially easy) north northwestern spur of Stoompa. Once on the ridge I was again enveloped by the mist and no views were on offer for a long time after that. There was nothing for it but to put the head down and slog up to the summit. I must say I was feeling a bit less than energetic but I managed to keep going without pause. Once on the top there follows an easy walk around the elbow of the glen, high above the triumvirate of lakes nestled below. The cloud became wispier and occasional misty views into the glen lifted the spirits. After giving a guy (whose dog was off the lead and chasing some sheep) a good bollocking, I continued to the arete between Mangerton and Mangerton North, and here I paused for a bite to eat. It was a simple thing to cross over Mangerton North and as soon as I started to descend towards the main track the clouds cleared and I enjoyed great views for the rest of the descent. Seeing three young stags added even more to the outing and I really enjoyed the rest of the descent. I arrived back at the car 3 hours 50mins after setting out, so it had been a decent effort to cover the 14.5 kilometres with over 900 metres ascent. I am getting the urge to immerse myself in the mountains once again.

2022 A New Year. Carrauntoohil

 I have been neglecting the blog over the past 18 months. With Covid causing mayhem, I basically got out of the habit of updating the blog. Not that I have been idle. I have been doing more in the way of cycling, I am still running and while visiting Castletownbere in the autumn of 2020 I rediscovered my liking for sea fishing from the shore. This has without doubt eaten into my hillwalking time but I still get out and about regularly. 

Just before Christmas I went for a couple of days fishing to west Kerry and while there I went for a quick hike up Cnoc na dTobar. Something of an outlier at the western end of the Iveragh, this mountain reaches 690 metres and offers some of the best views in Ireland. A good path leads to the summit and the magic juxtaposition of islands, sea and mountains is truly wonderful. A nice little horseshoe can be done and it makes for a very satisfying few hours. (The less said about the fishing the better)

The view towards Caherciveen and Valentia from 3/4 the way up Cnoc na dTobar

On December 26th I went as far as the Galtees for a bit of a burnout, in the hope of offsetting some of the excesses of the previous days. It was a decent weather forecast and promised to be mainly dry and with the possibility of some clear skies. I decided that a circuit from Kings Yard would fit the bill nicely. I set off at 10.40 and headed for Monabrack first. This gives a nice gentle intro to the hike and I was immediately enjoying my walk up the farm road I followed it around into the valley between Monabrack and the spur that rises to Galtymore. This valley has a nice remote mountain feel to it and it offers you that lovely feel of being enveloped by the mountains. The easy going is now over and I faced into the 350 metre steep pull to the 630 metre summit of Monabrack. The weather was playing ball and what cloud there was only clung to the top of the main ridge. A drop down to the col and another 250 metre more gradual pull to the broad crest of the main ridge follows. Views were now scarce so I wasted no time trying to photograph anything and followed the wall all the way to the final slopes that rise up to "Dawsons Table". I didn't see anyone until I was under the summit slopes and even the summit itself was sparsely populated. From the top I turned south and decided to follow the spur that leads directly back to Kings Yard. I must confess to feeling the effects of festive excess on the route but I really enjoyed my outing. It is always a bonus to arrive back to the car warm and dry.

14 kilometres...950mtrs ascent...3.5 hours...cobwebs gone

 

January 5th 2022

With a couple of frosty nights promised and the possibility of snow on the Magillycuddy Reeks I was looking forward to my first hill outing of the new year. Wednesday January 5th was promised to be sunny and cold so that would be my outing. The evening before I could see from home that the Galtees were white on the top few hundred metres so I made sure to carry my axe and crampons with me. I even hoped to get in a winter climb of Curve Gully or "The Grey Area".

I rose early and was on the road west at 7.40. I arrived at a calm, frosty, blue sky Lisliebane before nine am and quickly got ready for the off. Alas, even though it was reading -4 in the car on the way back, the hoped for blanket of snow was no where to be seen so it looked like a climb was off the table. Ever hopeful I left the hardware in the bag and set off into the Hags Glen. The encompassing array of 3000ft peaks is always an inspirations sight and this morning was no exception. I was feeling good and immediately enjoying my surrounding and looking forward to the challenge ahead. I decided to head up to Commeenoughter in the rugged heart of the Carrauntoohil-Beenkeragh side of the glen and hope against hope that Curve Gully held snow. When I eventually reached "level 3" it was very clear that there was none so I continued up O'Sheas Gully. This is a long hard slog that gets steeper near the top but the rewards of the views west and the nearby Caher is ample reward for the effort and gives one a good excuse to rest a while. It was a properly fantastic day. The ground was well frozen, the sky was clear and blue and there wasn't a puff of wind. Just about as good as it gets (except maybe a covering of snow). 

Not a bad way to start the day

Looking out from "Level Two" in Commeenoughter

Looking up "O'Sheas"

Caher

The mountains near Glenbeigh

 

I was on the summit soon after and thankfully it wasn't too  crowded and I relaxed and enjoyed a bite to eat. The East Reeks looked wonderful and I decided to continue my day and traverse the ridge as far as Maoláin Buí (The Bone). A wee bit of care on the descent the top of the ladder was required but it was hard not to keep looking up at the stunning panorama all around. Once at the top of the "Ladder the pull up to Cnoc na Toinne was easy on the frozen turf. Here is one of my favourite places to wander and soak in those views. You are in the heart of the range here and the 3000 foot mountains on either side look magnificent. It is hard to believe that you are still at a higher elevation than anywhere in Connaught and only Slieve Donard is higher in Ulster. A short descent leads you to the final climb of Cnoc an Chuillinn 958 metres. This is another of my favourite view points and it is made all the sweeter when the bulk of the climbing was now over. A wonderful airy walk follows on the ridge before a final 70mtr pull to the 970 metre summit of Maoláin Buí, my final top of the day. The descent is straightforward and went very well. I arrived back at the car before 14.00. Just 4 hours 45 mins to cover 14 kilometres and 1290 metres of ascent. I was well pleased.

Carrauntoohil

One of my favourite strolls...Cnoc na Toinne

Looking back from "The Bone"

Descent.