The Slieve Mish Mountains on the Dingle Peninsula

Today I returned to the beautiful (and sometimes overlooked) Slieve Mish mountains near Tralee for another visit to Baurtregaum and Caherconree. I must confess to having something of an ulterior motive though...I was anxious to take the opportunity to have another dip in the sea. So after returning home after night work I left after a bite to eat and headed west. The forecast was for sunshine and showers and this proved accurate and the temperatures were more autumnal that high summer but I reckoned that the water would still be as warm as it was a few weeks ago. I reached the end of the little overgrown lane at 09.15 and I was on the move a few minutes later.
The mountains were clear right now but it was also clear that this wasn't likely to remain the case. Squalls could be seen to the north and west so the waterproofs were packed close at hand. The going is initially easy as you climb gently to reach the Dingle Way path (they are also trying to re-brand it the "Kerry Camino" which I think is bloody awful) and here I turned left and followed it for a short while until it crossed over the Derrymore River. Now I turned and made my way up through the bracken to reach the steeper slopes of the long spur that descends from Baurtregaum's North East top. I found the going tough as I struggled up the pathless mountainside through long grass, some gorse and heather. It certainly got the blood pumping and it was only when I was about 250 metres higher did the vegetation become more amenable and the going become a little easier. Not that things became easy mind as one of those squalls arrived and ensured I wouldn't confuse today with high summer any time soon.

The way up on the left...the descent on the right

Bye bye squall

Heading to Caherconree...Dingle Bay on the left

I don't want to paint a negative picture of the morning...I was loving it and in my element. Is there anywhere finer than being on a mountainside, enjoying wonderful views, getting a good physical workout and getting a good blast of fresh air forced into you???. The rain eased but the cloud engulfed me and suddenly I was cocooned in my own much smaller world. Bleak would have been a good description of the mood but soon enough the cloud gradually rose and once again my horizons stretched far. There are few things I like better than re-emerging mountain views. Things always look more dramatic when clouds scud over ridges and into glens. Eventually I reached the NE top and it is easy going to reach the stony broad summit of Baurtregaum (851 metres). The wind was strong and still had a damp chill attached to it so I continued easily towards Caherconree. Another little spit of rain threatened but never amounted to much and I had the rest of the hike dry and mostly clear. The views to the west from the ridge after Caherconree are beautiful and I reminisced about my three day hike last May and the more recent trips to Stradbally and Benoskee. The descent is pretty straightforward and before too long I was back on the Dingle Way and soon back at the car.
Just under 11 kilometres...940 metres climbing and 3 hours 20 minutes.

The stunning views to Stradbally and beyond

Autumn isn't far away

But the fun wasn't over yet. One of the main reasons I came back was to treat myself to another dip in the sea. The weather the past couple of weeks had been less than summery and strong winds had made the waters more brown than blue but I reckoned that the temperature of the water would still be okay so I decided to give it a go. I drove to the nearby Derrymore Beach and without giving myself too much time to think I put on my shorts and headed across the sands. The tide was mostly out and I know from a previous visit that to reach water of any depth would entail wading 100 metres out and this didn't appeal so I waded out to just above my knees and basically lid down. It was still wonderful. There are no breakers here and the rise and fall of the water was minimal. I waded around and found a waist deep area and enjoyed frolicking about there for a bit. I love to just do a little breast stroke and with just my head above the water enjoy the wonderful views and immerse myself in the invigorating experience. I stayed about 15 minutes and returned to the car. Once dressed in warm dry clothes I felt great and settled in for the drive home. I'm already looking forward to more salt water dunks before Autumn takes too strong a grip. 

The Coomloughra Horseshoe and Cnoc na d'Tobar (A Pilgrim Mountain)

Friday August 2nd;
After my trip to beautiful Brandon a couple of weeks ago I opted last week to head back to the Iveragh Peninsula and  on this trip to sample once again the delights of The Reeks and also to try and get a dip in the sea. The weather was fine so I decided to do the Coomloughra Horseshoe and head further west to one of my favourite campsites Mannix Point in Caherciveen that evening.

I arrived at a comfortable 10.15 at the fine carpark at the bottom of the hydro road and I was on the move a few minutes later. The mountains were cloud free and I was looking forward to this, one of the best hikes in the country. I was feeling good and set a good pace up the road and soon I reached the lake and wondered once again at the huge coum under the three highest mountains in Ireland. I opted to head up Skregmore first as this offers some nice scrambling once up at the ridge and when heading this way the descent later in the day is much easier. I had the mountains to myself until I reached the circus that is Carrauntoohil and once beyond that I was mostly alone again. I reached the summit of Caher and the descent went very well. I arrived back at the car just 4 hours 20 minutes after setting off.

Some scrambling to be had up at the ridge

Next up came the beautiful wild drive over the spectacular Bealach Oshin as far as Caherciveen. I really enjoyed the scenery all the way back and despite it being high season I met very few cars en route until I joined the busy ring of Kerry just outside the town. I drove the five or so kilometres as far as the blue flag Whitestrand beach and enjoyed a nice long soak in the sea. It is a lovely beach with very little in the way of waves so it is excellent for those that like to swim rather than splash around. Once my lust for the sea was sated I drove back into town and went to the very very busy campsite. I feared that they wouldn't have any places available but they managed to find a spot. It is in a beautiful place, right down by the waters edge and at high tide it is very easy to enjoy a swim right by the tent. I enjoyed a relaxing evening and rested up for tomorrows outing.

Saturday August 3rd;
An early start saw me arrive at the little carpark at the base of Cnoc na d'Tobar at 08.15. I was just after a short outing as I had to be at work for 7pm and I had a few bits to do at home before that. Cnoc na dTobar is one of Ireland's pilgrim mountains. Though not as well known as the likes of Croagh Patrick it does attract a few religious types throughout the year. It is mostly just tourists that climb it though and it has a good well marked track that wends its way gently up the mountain. At 690 metres and basically starting at sea level it is a worth while (if not too taxing) trek and soon I warm and moving well. I cut across some of the zig zags and once I was up two thirds of the way I made a direct line for the elegant ridge that drops southwesterly from the summit and continued up on that. The clear skies of yesterday were missing and today was more leaden and cloud flirted with the summit. A stiff breeze was blowing as well so it didn't feel particularly warm. Nevertheless the views were beautiful. The island of Valentia and all the surrounding seascapes and mountains make this a magical place. Easy it might be but it pays off big time in views. A series of crosses run the length of the route and the granddaddy of them all lords it over the summit. A crudely constructed 15 foot edifice looks over the town far below and here once a year mass is said. I wasn't in a praying mood so I turned and headed across the stony ground towards the north top and enjoyed the views across to the Dingle Peninsula and the blue sea just below. I followed the broad spur easily all the way back down to the shore just to the north of the pier and cove. Here there is a small stony beach that is hidden from view so I stripped everything off and went of another soak in the calm waters. Suitably refreshed I returned along the delightful super colourful lane as far as my car and I was heading for home not long after 11am. It was a short but delightful outing.

Wonderful views back

No spirit levels used here

The way down

Skinny dipping heaven

If you have to walk along a road it might as well be one a beautiful as this/

Mount Brandon..Stradbally...and world class beaches

Friday July 26th;

I went for a two day (well day and a half) trip to one of my favourite places the Dingle Peninsula on Friday morning to try and fit a combination of mountain, sun and sea into the trip. I packed up all my camping gear with the intention of staying at one of the campsites on the Maherees and set off early doors for the west.
It was lovely and warm at home but as often happens the cloud cover increased the further west I went and the tops of the mountains were well covered. Some rain drifted across the valleys and the temperature had dropped as well and it was down to just 17 degrees by the time I parked in the beautiful village of Cloghane. I didn't let the less than perfect weather bother me though...oh no I had other reasons to be a little pissed off. I had discovered that, even though I had loaded up the car with all the paraphernalia required for a short camping trip I had neglected to include one basic thing...my tent😡. What a complete numpty I am. So it is fair to say I was less than pleased when I set off into the beautiful wide valley between Brandon Peak and Sleivanea. My mood soon improved as I went on as it is hard not to become consumed by the beauty of this place. Soon I reached the turn for lake and once the track ended I crossed the outlet and I began my climb up the spur that rises to Gearane. Steep and unremitting for 600 metres it is a good test of the legs. I was pleased with how it went for me but once I reached the cloud it became quite chilly and coupled with the wind it was necessary to put my jacket and gloves on. With nothing in the way of views it was just a case of putting the head down and pushing on. Brandon Peak and then Brandon itself passed in the fog and rather than continuing along the ridge I dropped down into the wild coum and followed the normal route down to the grotto. Once under the cloud the views to the village at the head of the bay were as usual lovely. I hadn't met anyone while on the ridge but several groups were coming up against me as I went down. I arrived back at the car and decided what I was going to do next.

Back under the cloud..Cloghane bay below

I had resigned myself to returning home that evening but first things first, I was going for a swim. I drove the short distance to the nearby Fermoyle beach and headed for the water. The day was improving and here, away from the mountains the sun was shining. I had my usual doubts as I neared the water. Knowing that it would be cold and thinking that I wouldn't enjoy getting in made me question myself but I banished the negativity and walked into the onrushing wavelets.It wasn't too bad at all and after one or two gasps I was plunging into an oncoming breaker. It was exhilarating. Each wave surged and lifted and I was enthralled by the sensory delights of the experience. Clouds steamed off the summits of the nearby mountains. The water was blue and really pleasant and it is fair to say that the beach wasn't exactly overcrowded. When the weather is like this then there can be fewer places to come as close to the perfection of Brandon Bay. After five minutes or half an hour (who is counting) I returned to the car and changed. The body was aglow after the healing waters but now I had to make a choice as to what to do next. I went to nearby Castlegregory and while enjoying a coffee I rang a couple of B&Bs and I booked myself into one. It was actually in the village and I was soon settled. That evening I went to the stunning beach on the west side of the Maherees and walked in the waters edge for half an hour and enjoyed the sunset. It was truly beautiful and even though I had missed out on the camping experience I was a very happy man as I returned to my room. It had, after all been a really good day.
17 kilometres...1280 metres ascent and same descent...4 hours 30 minutes and a swim👍

Not a bad spot for a dip

Evening on the Maherees

Saturday July 27th;

A gargantuan breakfast of eggs,bacon,sausages and beans at 8am set me up nicely for the day ahead. I had to be at work for 7pm so a short day was the plan and a straight up and back to Stradbally mountain seemed to fit the bill. I drove the couple of kilometres to the main road and at the forestry entrance I parked up and set off . Clouds shrouded the hills again and occasional spits of rain were on the go but it felt good to be on the move again. The going is very easy for the first few kilometres as you follow the forest road up though the woods until finally, after passing a telecoms mast you emerge onto open mountain. One thing that struck me straight away was how much more complex the ground is. From below it looks like a plain slope that rises smoothly up to the main ridge but once out on the open ground then there are some gentle ridges and undulations and there was much more of an open feel than was evident from down below. The gentle going of before was now in the past and I set off up across the pathless heathery ground in a direct line for the highest point of the ridge. The cloud was down at about the 650 metre mark so views would be at a premium today as well but I was looking forward to the outing just the same. Once I crossed a stream I reached a wire fence and this I followed up to the crest of the ridge and once there it was a simple matter of sticking to it all the way to the summit. The cloud lifted with me and some sunshine broke the gloom but the views stayed absent. I decided to include Benoskee in my walk and this added some time and metres to the day. Despite the lack of views I found myself with a big grin on my face when the sun burst through. It was great to be out. I returned by the same route I went up and in typical fashion the cloud lifted as I descended but I didn't mind a bit.

Back under the clouds and things clearing nicely

The Maherees stretch away

 As I got lower my eyes were on the beauty of the blue ocean and I scanned the ground to see which section of beach I would head for once down. On the west side of the Marherees the sea was calm but on the ocean side there was plenty of breakers so that was where I opted for. I drove to Stradbally strand near the golf course and I wasted no time in heading for the water. Breakers there certainly was aplenty and at times it was akin to being in a washing machine but it was great fun all the same. At times it was wonderful to simply gaze around in wonder at the simple beauty of this stunning place. No high rise hotels to be found here, just mile after mile of near empty perfect beach and a stunning mountain backdrop. I felt fortunate indeed. A half hour later I was hurriedly putting on my clothes before setting off on the 70 mile journey home. Legs a little tired after a workout and skin aglow. It had been another good day.
13 kilometres...880 metres ascent and descent...3 hours 25 minutes 🌊

Stradbally strand