Mount Brandon and a Cycle over the Conor Pass

 GETTING BACK IN THE GROOVE

The June bank holiday weekend I went back to Cloghane for a few days. The weather forecast was great and I was looking forward to seeing this wonderful place at its best. Another plus was since I had been diagnosed with asthma some weeks back, I was now able to get out running again if I use my inhalers. Progress.

I was working the early shift on Friday but I was still able to set off west at lunchtime. It was a beautiful weather day and the sea looked an amazing deep blue as I drove back along the Dingle Peninsula. I arrived in O'Connors campsite after 2pm and after checking in I decided that I would go for a run. I opted to go in the quiet dead end road that runs in the valley floor to the base of the spectacular coums that sit under Ballysittera. This was a great choice as there was no traffic (1 car passed during the run) and I was able to relax and enjoy the ever improving scenery. I took my time and it felt great not to have any problems with my breathing. Not that my legs were having a great time. They felt leaden and ached a bit but that was okay. At least now I was able to run. The road is far from flat though. I was starting at sea level and I turned at 130 metres and by the time I was finished I had climbed 230 metres in total over the 12 kilometres. I was tired but delighted when I got back to the campsite. It felt great to be back.

On Saturday I decided that I would go for a cycle. The obvious choice was to head over the Conor Pass and head back to Camp via Annascaul and return to base on the north road of the peninsula. I must confess to having reservations. The Conor Pass is always a stiff proposition for me and I wasn't at all sure I would be able to manage it. How would the breathing hold up?. I thought about just doing an out and back to Camp on the north road but I guess if I didn't try I would never know. I was feeling good as I left the site and the weather was once again fabulous. The climbing started almost straight away as I turned outside the village and headed towards the pass. This two kilometre stretch gets the heart and legs pumping and once that is done the real climbing begins. I won't say the next 5 kilometres were easy but I managed to keep going. I didn't have many gears to spare but I wasn't in the lowest one...not quite. Another cyclist passed me out about half way. I managed to stick with him for about a kilometre but he gradually eased away. Still, he was just a couple of hundred metres ahead at the top. Oh yes, I did reach the top. Suitable knackered but I got there. Now I could relax and freewheel all the way to Dingle.

The breeze had behind me so far but now as I turned and headed out of town It was into me. It wasn't too strong but it made the next nearly 30 kilometres tougher than I had hoped. If I thought all the climbing was over after doing the pass then I was mistaken. There was nothing too big or too steep but there was a climb out of Dingle, a climb out of Lois Póil, a climb out of Annascaul and a climb to the pass before descending into Camp. It is fair to say I didn't set any speed records. Once I reached Camp things got easier and it was  fairly flat for the remaining 20 kilometres. I arrived back into the campsite pretty whacked but happy. It had been my toughest ride this year but once again it was a body problem rather than a breathing one. That can be worked on. I had started my ride at 09.20 so it was 12.30 when I got back. It was wonderful to relax and while away the long afternoon in glorious weather and glorious surroundings.

Leaving the village and looking to Brandon Peak

On a sunny Sunday morning I decided to go for a good hike. One of the delights of Cloghane is that you can head up Mount Brandon without using the car. After an initial delightful section out of the village there is a kilometre on the quiet lane before you reach the carpark by the grotto. If you are doing an up and back climb then it makes sense to start here but I wanted to continue along the ridge for a bit so starting from the village made sense for me. It was a stunning morning. Sunny, blue skies and just a gentle breeze, made it a perfect day for hiking. I followed the trail until I was near the crest of the Faha Ridge and here I decided to follow the crest and cross the the delightful Faha Ridge itself. It had been a few years since I had done this route and I was really looking forward to it. In order to reach the interesting section I had to slog up the broad spur until I reached the Benagh at 822 metres. Now the fun begins. 

I took my time and savoured every step. The track drops steeply and twists from one side to the other of the ever narrowing ridge. The drops on either side become greater and the views become ever more spectacular. Eventually you reach a steep impassable drop and the only way to progress is to drop steeply to the right. There are two sections to this and each requires care. Big hand holds help but a slip here would be serious. A steep wall is passed on the right, and suddenly all the difficulties are over (if you want them to be) and a steep 120 metre climb awaits. It is really quite steep and hands may be required in places. I always prefer to venture towards the impressive rock steps that lead to the top. The most difficult pieces are at the bottom and these I avoided but about one third of the way up I joined the crest and this gave further great fun to the top. I was so engrossed in the ridge that I had completely forgotten bout the awesome views that await when you top out. It was another wow moment and I took a breather and gazed about in joy and wonder. What a day. I continued to the top and after a stop for a drink I continued on towards Brandon Peak. I was feeling quite good. It felt great not to feel any tightness in the chest. It was just ordinary muscle fatigue that  I felt. That I could deal with.

After Brandon peak I went across the short ridge to Gerhane and then I descended the steep but easy ridge that drops due west from the top. The views into the coum on the left are wonderful and further afield was a constant pleasure to behold. Eventually I reached the lake shore and joined the farm track that leads easily to the road that I ran a couple of days earlier. It was an easy walk along the road for four kilometres and back to the car. I relaxed a while and then packed up and headed towards home. 10 kilometres and over 1400 metres of ascent in just over 5 hours made it a worthy outing. What a relief to be back doing what I enjoy in one of my favourite places. More to come.

Wonderful Winter on Carrauntoohil

Sunday March 3rd;

 In the last couple of months I have experienced Carrauntoohil in very different guises. In the middle of January I climbed Curve Gully when it was at its very best for ice climbing. A little while after that I went back and climbed up O'Sheas Gully on a wet cloudy day, when things could best be described as atmospheric. We had a good dump of snow on the mountains the previous few days and I decided to head back once again and see what was on offer. I was hopeful of climbing The Step or having a rummage around in The Grey Area but it was not to be.

As I drove back I was a little disappointed to see that the temperature was up at 8 degrees and heading higher. Since there hadn't been any meaningful frost overnight I suspected that the snow that had fallen would be slushy and soft. Indeed it came as a surprise to see that only the tops above 600 metres held and traces of snow at all. That is when I could see any tops, as the cloud and frequent heavy rain showers obscured my view most of the drive back. The forecast promised a fine weather day so I was hopeful that things would improve. It was a relief to see that by the time I was heading out of Killarney the skies were clearing and now I could also see that there was still a lot of snow on the mountains above 600 metres. When I left the car it was a really pleasant morning, 8 degrees, with only a slight breeze and mostly clear skies. 

Cloud clings to Carrauntoohil

The East Reeks in the clear

Entering the Hags Glen is always special. Modest in height by international standards these mountains may be but the punch above their weight and always look impressive and they form a formidable barrier as they loom in front of you. Today with snow covering the upper half they looked even better. As often seems to happen, the East Reeks tops were clear of cloud but Carrauntoohil was shrouded and some rain/snow was falling in Coumeenoughter. As is usual on a Sunday there were lots of people about. Thankfully most of those I saw were suitable dressed and equipped. I followed the trail as it rose into the ever more impressive mountain scenery ahead. The cloud was lifting and I could see the impressive north and east face of the mountain. The Grey area looked steep and intimidating in its alpine sugar coating but the ridges were clear of snow. This indicated that the thaw was well underway and I had little optimism that the snow would be firm or that any useful ice could be found. The snow line started at the first level but it was soft and slushy. It didn't improve as I rose up to the second level. Indeed the only difference was that there was more of it. When I could see The Step it looked great, but I knew it was an illusion and to climb it would have meant a torturous procession up deep slush and black rock. I decided to turn instead to Curve Gully and climb that until I reached the second half of it from where I could perhaps access the Grey Area if conditions up there proved better.

A spectacular place to be

More snow on the second level

The gully well banked out. Glad to see the steps

To be honest I was expecting the gully to be a torturous wallow. It was banked out with snow and presented a much easier proposition than the last time I was there when some delicate Grade 2 ice climbing was to be had. I could see that a pair of climbers were after starting up as I approached so I knew that I would have some steps in the snow. I debated whether to put on my crampons or not when I reached the gully as the snow was not exactly icy, but I reckoned that if things got better higher up then it would be easier and save time to have them on now. I was delighted to find that the steps in the gully were reasonably solid and not too deep. Clearly they had been made before today. Progress was therefore easy and rapid. When I got up near the upper section of the gully I did a brief detour to see what the conditions were like on the open ground to the left. What looked like promising snow-ice was soft and cruddy and slid off the rocks in sheets. I stuck to the gully. Winter conditions make Curve a spectacular place to be. It was a simple joy to climb up through the deep upper section and feel secure in the good conditions. I saw a bit of video of rivers of Graupel flowing down the gully the previous week and I was grateful for the conditions today. 

Looking up in the upper section.

Looking down.

I topped out to a calm snow covered summit that was trying hard to break through the wispy cloud. With no views and it still being too early for lunch I decided to head down straight away. The track down towards the Devils Ladder was, as expected, well trodden and the going was rapid and easy. I decided to descend via the Heavenly Gates and this went very well. This route can be quite intimidating when it is banked out with heavy snow as the path is covered and the ground is steep. I remember once doing it with full snow cover and with the added spice of blizzard conditions. I was very relieved to reach the KMR hut that day. Today however was a different story and it was a pleasure to cross the spectacular ground. The views down to Lough Gouragh and Lough Callee were almost aerial and of course the East Reeks were spectacular beyond. I kept the crampons on until below the Heavenly Gates and thereafter it was easy going back to the car. It had been a very enjoyable outing. I was perhaps a little disappointed not to have done the Step but Curve delivered once again. Maybe winter will provide another chance before it ends.

Ice Climbing on Carrauntoohil...Curve Gully

 

After a stellar period of dry frosty weather, I guess it would have been remiss not to visit Carrauntoohil and have a look and see if ice had formed. On Thursday morning I arranged to meet with Connie Looney and we headed back to have a look at Curve Gully. The temperature was reading -6 as I drove back to meet him and promised to remain close to freezing through the day. We brought our axes and crampons and set off into the Hags Glen on a beautiful, calm, cold weather morning.

It was great to be out with Connie again and the chat flowed as we walked. I was surprised that there wasn't more people about as I thought the great weather might have tempted more people to get out. Still I guess ice wasn't quite as big a draw as snow. There had been a very slight dusting of the white stuff on the mountains that made the scene look even better as we entered the glen. Before long we crossed the stream and began the stiff pull up into the spectacular levels of Coumeenoughter. Once we reached the first level we were joined by another climber called Dave who was also heading for Curve. The waterfall between level 1 and 2 was completely frozen and would have offered good, if a little sketchy climbing. We weren't really tempted and continued up. Before we reached the bottom of the gully we passed the excellent ice climb called The Lick. It looked to be in good condition but, as today it consisted entirely of water ice, it would have been quite a tough outing and definitely have required gear.

Heading in.

What I think is the crux. Sporty with 1 axe.

Above the crux..easier ground

Right from the start Curve was fat with ice and offered great climbing. I took one axe off the bag, and after putting on the crampons we set off up. After the initial step over a rock the narrow steep section just beyond is I think the hardest section of the climb. The ice was a little sparse but good enough and it soon passed. Easy going follows up through more open ground until, a little below  where the gully deepens and cuts straight up towards the summit. Here some nice sections up through some slabby rock keep things interesting. From there all the way to the top, some great little sections of bulging fat toffy ice was a joy to climb. Things are never very steep but water ice deserves respect and a little care is required. I would say that the route offers a very very nice grade 2 climb in icy conditions. When banked out with snow it gives a grade 1 climb. It is a long climb and by the time we reached the summit we had been on ice for 300 metres. It was a joy to reach the top and enter a calm sunny wonderland. We enjoyed a bite to eat and descended the Heavenly Gates and back to the car. 

Dave cruising it..Entering the upper section

Fat with ice

What a day to be on the summit.

It had been a fabulous outing in wonderful company. Thank you Connie.