Waterville to Sneem Run on the Kerry Way and Coomnahorna to Coomcallee Hike

 I was in beautiful Sneem for a few days holiday this week and me being me I decided to "relax" in the best way I knew how..running and hiking.

After arriving on Saturday I wasted no time in going for a run along the lovely quiet little road that enters ever wilder scenery as it stretches towards the base of Knocknagantee. I wasn't interested in pace or time I just wanted to immerse myself in this beautiful place. I just did 9 kilometres, but it was enough. Saturday night into Sunday morning had seen torrential rain and strong winds arrive and go. I decided that staying on the road would offer the safest option so once again I ran in the same road as yesterday, this time to its end, which added a few kilometres to yesterdays outing. There was one torrential shower of rain during the run which was both chilling and invigorating at the same time. The river through the village was super spectacular as it thundered over the rocks below the bridge.

Any higher and those campers would have been in trouble

On Monday the weather was very nice so I decided that a long run on the Kerry Way would be just the job. The new "Local Link" bus services that are now available in west Kerry allowed me to catch the 12.20 bus and I arrived in Waterville at 13.10. It was a lovely sunny day and thankfully the strong winds of yesterday were now absent. Mind you the sea was still angry and carried a big big swell. I must confess to having doubts about my ability to do the run. Sneem suddenly seemed an awfully long way away. Still I was here now so off I set. After a delightful run alongside the shoreline I joined the main road for several hundred metres before a right turn onto a quiet lane. Now the only roar was the sound of the huge waves crashing ashore. The next two kilometres followed this lane before the trail rose gently along a delightful track all the way to Coomakista. I stopped several times to take some photos and I was determined not to push too hard and try and have something in the kitty for later on. As you gain height the views only get better and better and in the distance the magical Skelligs rise from the sea.

Wild and wonderful in Waterville

Out over Waterville bay and the Skelligs beyond

Coumakista ahead

 I walked the steeper section until I crested the pass and shortly after I reached the wedge tomb where I stopped and revelled in my glorious surroundings. Derrynane is without doubt one of the most beautiful places in Ireland and on a sunny day such as this I felt privileged to be here. I continued steeply down and after crossing the road I was once again on trails. The next several kilometres were mostly through the forest and it was a delight. Views may have been restricted but I loved the variety. Eventually I reached the little village of Caherdaniel and once across the road the trail continues towards another pass and Stague Fort. I ran and walked up the hill along the delightful "walk of the planets". This is a delightful idea where spherical sculptures are in place, each one representing a planet of our solar system, and these spaced at on scale distances from Caherdanial, which I guess represents the sun. A little information board tells about each planet. It means that over two kilometres pass before you finally reach Neptune. A delightful section of trail crosses the mountainside before another quiet lane takes you near Stague Fort. Another climb see you reach the crest above Bohacogram. I was pretty tired by now and had covered 20 kilometres but suddenly I felt that the end was attainable.

At the wedge tomb above Derrynane..very special

Leaving Caherdaniel

Leaving Bohacogram, starting the final furlong.

I ran down and passed the little cottage where we had stayed in the past and after the final climb I stood on the pass and could see Sneem in the distance and the mountains stretching afar on the left. I was really glad that the next few kilometres were down hill. I was pretty pooped. Having said that I was still able to keep trundling along. Once I passed over a footbridge and I reached the road that reaches to the village I was on the final stretch. It seemed interminable but eventually I found myself entering the busy little place. Through the north square and finally it was over. 29 kilometres covered in just less than four hours. I was delighted and strangely proud in equal measure. It somehow felt like I had achieved something. 

Wednesday February 26th;

After a relaxing day on Tuesday I decided that today would be a good day for a hike. A beautiful array of mountains frame the skyline from Sneem. Coomcallee is the westernmost and a series of tops and coums stretch across to Finnararagh. One day I hope to cross them all in one go but today I planned on going from Coomnahorna to Knocknagantee. The weather forecast was a deteriorating one. Yesterday it promised to be mostly dry but today it promised showers and blustery winds. Ah well, I would have to see how things went. Margaret dropped me off at the turn for the Lomonagh Loop a few kilometres from the village. It was sunny right now but there had already been a few showers and I could see more were coming. I walked easily up through the forestry and I followed the track until it came to a section of open ground from where I could climb the northeast spur of Coomnahorna. Once I gained the crest of the spur the wind was quite fierce and buffeting at times. I was delighted however by the wonderful views. Below lay the beautiful Slievenashaska Lough above which wild and rugged ground rose to Slievenashaska South Top. As an aside, the eastern face of that mountain looks to offer a few hundred metres of wonderful scrambling opportunities which I hope to explore on future visits. Today I followed the easy ground of this ridge and revelled in the wild experience. It got even wilder when a squally shower of hailstones arrived and it became quite the battle to continue. As the wind (and hail) would have been into my face if I tuned towards Knocknagantee from the top I decided that I would instead go to Coomcallee and return to the village from there.

The easy ridge to Coomnahorna

Looks like there are great possibilities for some scrambling

Vicious hail showers

And a few minutes later

As it happens the hail cleared as I neared the broad summit and conditions weren't too bad but I wouldn't take the risk of more vicious showers returning  so I continued as planned. I dropped easily to the pass and started the 200 metre climb to Coomcallee. This soon passed and before long I was walking across the big broad summit. I could see that the distant Reeks had a nice bit of snow on them and the views in all directions were gorgeous. I decided to descend on the south-eastern side of the mountain and so I could reach a forest track that would allow me an easy exit to the road and the Kerry Way. Any descent on this side of the mountain is no bargain. There are lots of bands of sandstone which can give some steep and awkward sections but with some care safe progress can be made. Eventually I reached the track, road and Kerry Way and this I followed until I reached the lane that goes to Sneem where Margaret saved me the final couple of kilometres. It had been a relative short outing of just four and a quarter hours but I had covered over 16 kilometres and almost 1000 metres of ascent.

The Dunkerron Mountains and the snow capped distant Reeks

To finish off the day I went fishing at Waterville beach and it was a wonderful session. Plenty of bass obliged with the biggest well over 6lbs.

Curve Gully Carrauntoohil

Last week a proper cold snap arrived. A good dump of snow and temps down to minus 8 meant that for a full week we had wonderful winter weather. Alas the heavy snowfall meant that the roads were not drivable and as I was working every day I wasn't able to get to the mountains until Saturday. Indeed it felt a little surreal driving back and seeing the fields either side still under a white blanket and the roadsides high with snow where the snow plough had been. Once I turned off the main road beyond Killarney I was relieved to find that the road all the way to Cronins Yard was okay with a little care. My oh my but the mountains looked wonderful. It was also clear that there was a substantial thaw underway and the rock ridges and faces were fast becoming snow free.

The rescue were on a training exercise

 I left a fairly quiet car park and set off in the trail towards the Hags Glen. What a gorgeous morning it was. Crisp without being cold and clear skies and little or no breeze promised it would be a great day. Crossing the wet stony ground towards Coumeenoughter only confirmed the extent of the thaw and the snow was quickly turning to slush. I suspected and feared that when I reached Curve Gully I would be sinking deep into the snow. The climb between level one and two of the coum was up a snow field and there was a good set of steps to follow. These weren't too deep and provided a reasonably firm footing. Hope rose. When I finally reached the banked out base of the route I decided to see what it was like without crampons. It was fine all the way to the top. I just used the ice axe for security. I had thought that if The Step was in condition I would have gone up that route instead as it offers a nice Grade 2 outing but it was far from complete as was The Lick.

Everything disappearing fast

 I really enjoyed the climb. It was stress free on decent snow from the bottom to the top and once it was over I topped out to brilliant sunshine and wonderful views. There were a few people on the summit and each were marvelling at the benign conditions. I sat and had a bite to eat before making my way to the top of the Devils Ladder. I decided to descend here and things were initially easy as a good bank of snow was well stepped so progress was swift. Alas the bottom third of the gully had less cover and it became an exercise in trying to avoid breaking through the snow into the streams below. Torturous was how I would describe it and I was very tired and relieved to reach flatter ground near the bottom. There still was a fair old way to go but eventually I reached the car a tired but happy boy. Curve in winter offers a delightful way to the top of the mountain. 

Quality Hillwalks In Leenane

 It is becoming something of a tradition with me now to head to Leenane on the Mayo Galway border for a few days in November. So, just a few weeks after coming home from Italy I was off to one of my favourite places again. An added bonus was the fact that the weather forecast was pretty good for the duration of the trip. Mild, no rain, light winds but cloudy skies, is a pretty good deal for this time of year in Ireland.

Monday Novenber 4th;

 I left home before 8am and set off on the long drive northwest. It was quite foggy in places but when I entered County Galway at Gort I was delighted to leave the fog behind and enjoyed brilliant sunshine all the way to the city. I was hoping that it would last all the way to Leenane. It didn't. Alas the fog returned and I feared that all possibility of views were gone, but beyond Oughterard the fog cleared but there was a blanket of cloud covering the mountains as I entered the "wild west".

The plan for today was to dig some lugworm to use as bait for some sea fishing in the evening and once that was done I would go for a run alongside Killary Harbour. As I was passing the hotel on the way to getting bait and the run I decided to chance my arm and see if I could check in early. There was no problem and I was soon back on the road for the pleasant drive to the beach where I spent over an hour digging for a pitifully few lugworm. So with bait kinda sorted I drove the short distance to the shores of Lough Muck where I parked and changed and set off on my run. 

To be honest I wasn't feeling strong so I took it very handy for the first (all) few kilometres. I wasn't trying to set any records here, just enjoy being out and about in one of the most beautiful places in the country. Across the water the Benchoonas rose steeply and made a spectacular sight. I poddled along and gradually found my rhythm and started to enjoy myself. This run is mostly on the roads except for a glorious four kilometre stretch that runs alongside Killary Harbour. Despite this it is a wild and wonderful experience and you feel cut off from the world for most of the time. This run has it all. Wild lakes nestling under wild and rugged mountains and a green road and rocky trail that stretches alongside the deep waters of Killary Fjord. Across the narrow waters the mighty Mweelrea soars. |Even though I wasn't running well I couldn't help but enjoy the experience. Previously I have done a 20 kilometre circuit when running here but today I cut it a little short and settled for 17.4 kilometres. I was pretty pooped by the time I got back to my car but after a change of clothes and a bite to eat I was ready to drive the few kilometres to Glassilaun Beach where I enjoyed a nice relaxing few hours fishing. It is always a luxury to finish and return to a hotel where the shower was put to good use.

Tuesday November 5th;

As the forecast predicted the cloud covered the mountain tops but it was a dry calm morning. After eating much too much at breakfast I decided to do one of my favourite hikes, the Mweelrea Horseshoe from Delphi. This is a fairly big outing and when the weather is clear offers one of the most spectacular outings in the country. I was wondering how much I would enjoy it when those views were gone. One thing that would be just the same, is the effort required to do it. After parking at the hotel I followed the forest trail for a kilometre before entering the open mountainside and heading for Teevnabinnea (379 metres). This may be the lowest top of the round but it is hard won. Right from the start the ground is very boggy and each step is just that little bit harder. The ground gets progressively steeper but there is also more rocky sections which balances things out a bit. Finally, the broad summit is reached and I enjoyed a wonderful respite as I enjoyed the wonderful views down to Killary Harbour and the mountains, lakes and valleys of Connemara beyond. Not that I could see the tops of anything as by now the cloud wasn't too far above me. The next three kilometres are a delight as I headed easily for the deep gap before the steep climb to Mweelrea Southeast Spur.

Looking towards the Inagh Valley

Killary

The way ahead towards the Northwest Top of Mweelrea

Looking down to Delphi from Teevnabinnea

Now all that was ahead was the 600 metre plus climb to the top. The start is quite steep but it eases back a bit until the first top is reached. Unfortunately by the time I  reached the 495 metre top  I was in the cloud and the views were gone. A seventy metre drop comes next before a long punishing 400 metre climb is needed to reach the top. As you get higher the ground becomes more spectacular as you round the massive coum to reach the summit. Even in the cloud it was a spectacular place to be and the void on the right gave it a real high mountain feel. A stiff cold breeze and no views meant I just continued past the 814 metre summit without pausing. I was using the Mapy.cz app to navigate and this made it easy to stick to the correct route as I went to Ben Bury. I was engulfed in cloud all the way from Ben Bury to the east top of Ben Lugmore. It was a little disappointing to miss out on the stunning views that are to be enjoyed on a clear day but it still felt great to be out. From the top of the final mountain I made my way easily along the southeast ridge that heads in a direct line for Delphi, still a long way below. Height is gradually lost initially but after a while the easy going changes and the ground drops steeply towards the wide expanse of bog below. I emerged under the cloud again and stopped for a bite to eat before finishing the route. It is always a joy to emerge from the cloud and though the views were still a little limited I enjoyed my food and savoured my situation. After the steep descent there follows a horrible section which crosses deep tussocky ground where progress is torturous and slow. It is a relief to reach the normal bog and then I crossed the river via a footbridge not far from the hotel. 

Always a joy to get back under the cloud

The way down

I had thoroughly enjoyed the outing. It had taken just over five and a half hours to cover the 18 kilometres with 1600 metres of climbing thrown in. On a fine day it is without doubt one of the best outings in the country and even when the cloud is down it offers an awful lot. I was well pleased.

Wednesday November 6th;

One of the things I like most about staying in the hotel is that you can start a hillwalk right from the front door. This morning I planned to do a hike I had done a couple of times before that started with a long stretch along the Western Way until I reached Letterbrecaun and then following the crest of the mountains back to  the village. I reckoned that it would be a good choice for the weather as well since most of the mountain tops were quite low so I could be under the clouds for much of the time. The forecast for today was pretty much a mirror copy of yesterday and it certainly looked the same as I left the hotel after another huge breakfast. The first time I did this hike it was windy and the cloud was right down to just a couple of hundred metres and it was an exercise in map and compass all day. The second time it was a crisp beautifully sunny day with stunning views all the way. Today would rest somewhere in between.

Looking towards the end of Killary

Across to the Delphi Valley and all its delights.

After a kilometre on the road you turn left and join the Western Way as it traverses the wild slopes of Búcán, an outlier of Leenaun Hill. I love this section as the trail offers wonderful expansive views and immediately has a nice wild feel. It undulates along for the next four kilometres until you cross a quiet road and enter the Coillte forestry and then you are on forest roads for the next 6 kilometres. This stretch of the route is the least enjoyable but a plus is that towards its end you get better and better views of the Twelve Bens. Finally the forestry is left behind and a magical couple of kilometres await as you follow the trail as it heads across the open bog directly towards the base of the beautiful Letterbrecaun. You are now in the heart of the Inagh Valley and on one side rest the Bens and ahead and to the left the Maumturks wind their serpentine way from Maum to Leenane. Even today when the tops were obscured it was a wonderful place to be. I must confess to feeling tired by the time I reached the base of the climb to Letterbrecaun and I knew that the 600 metre climb to the top would be tough. I know I had covered 12 kilometres by now but it felt a bit harder than it should. 

Trail heaven. Heading towards Letterbrecaun

Nearing the Inagh Valley

I took it steady and soon I found my rhythm and I progressed up the steep slope. Some scrambling can be enjoyed after the initial couple of hundred metres but care is required on the slippy rock. The top remained in the cloud and the final stretch to the broad rocky summit seemed interminable but I managed ok. With nothing to distract me in the way of a view I used the Mapy.cz app to navigate my way to the North East top and after that I soon emerged under the cloud and I was able to enjoy the wonderful views all the way back to the hotel. The ridge stretches a full 10 kilometres and even though the tops aren't high there are some substantial climbs to be negotiated. I enjoyed myself immensely but it felt tougher than it should and by the time I reached the near 400 metre climb to reach Leenaun Hill I was pooped. Slow and steady was the order of the day once again and before too long I was enjoying the easy final stretch to the broad top. The views down to the village below and across Killary to the mountains beyond is a joy and they can be enjoyed for the duration of the descent. The descent is thankfully straightforward and the ground is mostly quite good so before too long I was once again entering the village and walking the final kilometre to the hotel. I love finishing the walk and just climbing the stairs to my room. A long hot shower restored me and I went for a spot of fishing from the nearby pier. Fatigue won the day and I retired early.

Back under the cloud and the way ahead

Looking across towards The Bens

Towards Joyce Country

The Benchoonas and Killary

Looking down to Leenaun

Todays outing was 27 kilometres long with a hefty 1900 metres ascent and it took me 7 hours 30 minutes. I think I deserved to feel a little tired.

Thursday November 7th;

 I hadn't slept well and I was feeling pretty rough this morning. Normally I would do a hike on the day I was returning home but I just couldn't face it this morning. I decided to relax for a while before driving home. As it transpired I was at the start of a nasty chest infection and the following week was pretty rough. Maybe that's why I felt so tired yesterday as well. Stil, a run and two quality hill days in one of the most delightful places in the country wasn't bad. Hopefully I will return n the Spring.