Winter Grade 2 Climb: The Grey Area Carrauntoohil

February 13th,
Today I went with Denis and his sometime climbing companion Bridie for another climb on Carrauntoohil. It had been cold-ish over the past few days and there was some snow lying on The Reeks. I wasn't over hopeful of good conditions but we decided to to bring back crampons and axe and see what the day brought. I thought that "The Grey Area" would be a good option and so it proved. This area is the wide steep area of mixed ground that sits between Curve Gully and The Lick. It offers a great variety of climbing where you can pick and choose the type of ascent you want to make with most of it going at around the Grade 2 or 3 mark (if you pick the spiciest bits). It can offer excellent mixed climbing with a mixture of frozen turf and icy rocks and the enjoyment only ends when you arrive at the cross. The forecast was for rain to arrive around midday so I wasn't expecting great things (bad weather usually arrives earlier than expected hereabouts) so it was a delight to be well into our descent before the rain arrived.

They wouldn't wait for me...

The north spur of Cuillin

Ready for the good stuff

Lots of options

The snow wasn't to be found in any great quantity until we reached the third level and here it was soft and there was nothing in the way of ice to be seen. Anyway we climbed up as far as the shallow middle section of  Curve Gully and here we crossed and made our way up steeply to the first of the steep steps that lay ahead. Here we donned crampons and roped up and I led off. Greasy snow covered rocks and unfrozen turf was the order of the day and it is fair to say that things weren't in good condition which actually made for more tenuous progress as there was precious little in the way of good axe placements to be found. It was still great fun however and as usual when I was in the middle of the climb my I found myself enjoying it immensely. After about 25 meters I brought Bridie and Denis up and then set off up again. The first sixty meters were actually the most difficult in the way of climbing and were touching on Grade 111 and it was a real eye-opener at the belay to look back and appreciate the grave consequences of a fall from here. Conditions started to improve from here (a bit) and easier ground was interrupted by short steep sections. We mostly moved together up here with me giving body belays to the guys on the steeper bits. Up and up and things got better and better and we were delighted to be in this winter wonderland. Bridie and Denis had just returned from a Scottish mountaineering trip and they both professed that today was as delightful (if not more so) than any day the had had there.

I think they were enjoying it.

Conditions getting better

For the final seventy or eighty meters we climbed lovely iced up rocky ground and a nice little ridge until we suddenly found ourselves almost level with the summit cross. There wasn't a puff of breeze and we were almost entirely cloud free. It was proving to be a pet day and we walked to the cross and enjoyed a well deserved rest and bite to eat and reveled in the glow that comes when you finish a lovely climb. In the still air it felt quite mild and there is no doubt that the temperature was above freezing. We contemplated going across the Benkeeragh ridge but when we reached the top of O'Sheas gully the rocks on the ridge were completely snow and ice free so we turned and headed down from here. The rain stayed away until we reached the first level but it wasn't too heavy. We arrived back in Cronins Yard and enjoyed excellent refreshments and were very happy bunnies. If only we could get some proper frosty nights then the Grey Area would offer truly excellent sport. I look forward to returning there soon.

Actually a bit steeper than it looks

Lovely mixed ground

And there's more

I'm not sure Bridie knew the danger :o)

The Hags Tooth--Beenkeragh to The Bone

The ridge to Beenkeragh from the Hags Tooth

Yesterday I went with Denis O'Brien for a climb on The Reeks. The weather has been utter rubbish this winter with storm after storm bringing wind and rain with only the occasional short cold snap bringing any snow which quickly disappears in the face of the next sweep of mild weather. So it is proving to be again this week but the forecast for yesterday wasn't too bad and with chilly temperatures in the offing as well we took the chance to gulp in some mountain air.

Approaching the Hags Tooth

Denis "Hot Hands" O'Brien

Denis is heading to Scotland next weekend for a winter mountaineering course so he was anxious to get a top up to his fitness and I have been carrying a knee injury since before Christmas which has prevented me running so I was looking to get a good days hiking in as well. We left Cronins Yard and set off in the chill breeze and we were pleased to see the dusting of snow down to around the 350 meter mark. Not what you would call winter conditions but this year we would accept it gratefully. We decided to head up the back of the Hags Tooth (or Stumpa an sTiamh in Irish) and follow the entertaining ridge to Beenkeragh summit and take things from there. Amazingly I have only been up behind the tooth once before and it was nice to see a slightly different perspective as we followed the stream up. We crossed the stream and climbed steep ground and reached the tiny little summit of the tooth. The wind wasn't too bad and we were able to stand in safety and enjoy our surroundings. On the remainder of the ridge we climbed or turned (whichever felt right in the snowy conditions) the various pinnacles up towards Beenkeragh. Denis took the opportunity to get in some "dry tooling" practice with the ice axes prior to Scotland. As we rose we were sometimes assaulted by hailstones and at times soft snow drifted around us. It made for a lovely ascent.

Nice and airy to the summit

In better weather the direct route on the ridge gives a great scramble

Carrauntoohil

Getting in some practice

Some steep scrambling

Looking back towards the East Reeks

From the top of Beenkerach we crossed the ridge to Carrauntoohil where we enjoyed our lunch. Once again we marveled at the ability of the wind to "find you" once you have settled down to eat. Our calm oasis was suddenly blasted by wind and snow and it made for a chilly change of clothes for Denis. We were in good spirits and we decided to continue along the range as far as The Bone. The pull up to Cnoc na Toinne is always a bit of a pain but once on the flat ridge it makes for a joyous passage. Here we were blasted by spindrift  but the views more than made up for that. Down again and the long pull to the top of Cnoc na Cuillin was dispatched and most of the climbing for the day was now behind us. We could see another squall heading our was along the Brida Valley and it wasn't long in reaching us. We headed along the ridge to our final top Maolan Bui or The Bone and descended easily back to our car. It had been a fine outing and gave another little taste of winter. Hopefully we will get a decent spell of cold weather soon.

Looking out the Hags Glen

West towards the Brida Valley

The Reeks January 9th

Regal Carrauntoohil

Beautiful ridge on Eastern Reeks

After driving 40miles on treacherous roads to walk with Killarney Mountaineering club I was disappointed to discover that the planned day out had changed due to the icy roads and they were settling for a quick up and down Purple mountain. Having overindulged in just about every way over Christmas I felt I needed a more substantial outing so I headed to the Reeks instead. The day was sunny and almost windless. Snow was lying to about 300mtrs and the prospect of a walk along the Reeks ridge was very appealing so I decided to head up Cnoc na Peiste and head across to Carrauntoohil. I put on the full winter gear and headed off from the car at about 11am. Once I started climbing I soon had to lose a layer but it felt good to be out and about again. There was not any great depth to the snow and the ground beneath was frozen so progress was reasonably rapid. The interminable slog up to the lake in Coum na Peista eventually passed and I reached more interesting ground above the lake at the rocky ridge up to the summit.There was no real ice on the rocks and the snow was soft so there was no need to don crampons. All too soon the rocky section was over and I reached the summit.

Mixed ground on Cnoc na Peiste ridge

A little wispy cloud was clinging to the top but this only added to the atmospheric feel of the place. There was some evidence of cornicing and a little drifting but these were easily avoided and I progressed rapidly along the ridge. On a day such as this there are few finer places to be. The cloud lifted and the views in all directions were lovely. The biting breeze and the alpine scenery ensured that interest was constant. I also had the whole place to myself.  Eventually hunger made itself known and I had a quick lunch on the summit of Cnoc na Toinne. This is a lovely eerie slap bang in the middle of the Reeks ridge. Being A little lower than the rest the view back to Cnoc na Peiste, Maolan Bui and Cnoc an Chuillinn and accross the Hags Glen towards Carrauntoohil and Beenkearach is magnificent and impressive.



View back from Cnoc na Toinne

View across to Beenkearach

 Rested and with hunger sated I headed down to the top of the Devils Ladder and started up the soul destroying 1000ft slog to the summit of Ireland. Just keeping the head down and keeping putting one foot in front of the other the top is eventually reached. The views are great but the presence of noisy others ensure I don't linger too long and I make my way down and head for Beenkearach. The ridge connecting the two mountains provides a lovely little scramble and is quite narrow and exposed in the early sections. These difficulties are easily bypassed along an exposed track on the eastern side. This, in the snowy conditions still kept me fully alert until all difficulties are past and I gambolled along the airy crest and wearily up to the summit of Ireland's second highest peak, at 1009mtrs a mere hundred feet lower than Carrauntoohil. The weather was changing so I headed down in the direction of Knockbrinnea straight away. The initial 400ft of descent was a pain as it was over boulders covered in snow. Progress was cautious to say the least yet I still managed to have a couple of semi controlled tumbles. Thereafter I made good time and eventually arrived back at Lisliebane and the car. All and all a good winters day out.

Carrauntoohil and the ridge.

Gap of Dunloe and Purple mountain Dec 23rd

Leaving Kate Kearneys

All frozen and An Tarbh looking great

As we were in the middle of an historic freeze with a thaw due on the 26th I headed for Kerry for a chance to experience some winter climbing. I had intended doing the Coomloughra horseshoe in the Reeks but mindful of reports of deep unconsolidated powder I opted instead for a more leisurely walk through the Gap of Dunloe and an accent of Purple mountain. I arrived at the car park at 9.35 and incredibly I was the only person there. The morning was sunny with little breeze and I set off from the car in a bracing -10 frosty wonderland. There was surprisingly little snow underfoot(barely 3inchs) so the walk along the deserted road was easy. On any given day the scenery here is wonderful, today it was sublime. Everywhere was a winter wonderland of frozen lakes and snowy rocky mountains.

View back from the head of the gap

Sparkling highway

Considerable ice on an Tarbh



Temperature inversion in the Black Valley

Glas lough with Purple beyond

Towards Molls Gap

The walk through the Gap was over all too quickly and I turned left and made my way up the side of Purple through the powdery snow towards Glas lough. Progress was easy and the occasional deepish drift of snow was easily avoided. I soon arrived at the lough and the views back into the black valley and the Reeks was superb. The lake was of course well frozen and there were even some possibilities for some ice climbing on the far side. Past the lake the route turns sharply to the right and climbs steeply to the shoulder before the the relentless slog to the summit. I allowed myself the occasional stop for breath and photo opportunities and the top soon arrived. At the summit there was a stiff wind into the face. This ensured that I didn't tarry and headed quickly for Tomies. The two kilometer ridge was a joy and despite the bitter cold I was enjoying myself immensely. The views to the north showed the beautiful Dingle peninsula. To the east lay Mangerton, Crohane and the Paps and Lough Leane a steely blue before a smokey Killarney. To the left the view down into the frozen Gap always drew the eye. Again when I arrived at Tomies the biting wind forced me onwards to Tomies Rock and I chose to descend the north spur and thus back to Kates. So ended fourteen kilometers of winter walking where the only thing I saw on the whole outing was a grumbling Grouse.

The view east

The Reeks

Ice climbing in Kerry

A fantastic view towards the eastern Reeks



Keith and Niall

Having to sit indoors at work and look out at the wintry weather extend it's grip over Ireland I was determined not to miss the opportunity to climb the Lick on Carrauntoohil on Saturday. I arranged to climb with a Dubliner called Niall Currid and a local guy called Keith Wharton. A thaw arrived on Thursday and was still ongoing when we left the car at 9am. Most of the little snow that we got in the southwest had disappeared and a low cloud base increased the the sense that we were too late for the route to still be in condition. As we progressed  towards the first level we rose above the the cloud and emerged into brilliant sunshine. There was evidence of plenty of ice still clinging to the north face. When we arrived at the second level there was some frozen snow about and the turf was well frozen so we continued with more hope. We rounded the rock buttress and got our first view of the route.   

The Lick rises steeply towards the summit.



Belay on second last pitch

We suited and booted and I led up the first pitch. The ice was a little thin and as is normal on this route, protection was scarce. One sling and an ice screw was all I had before a good spike belay presented itself after about 45mtrs. The two boys followed on and thereafter leads alternated  between Niall and myself. Long run outs were the order of the day and only seven pitches were required to complete the route. Due to having the extra man on the rope and trying to root out decent belays we were quite slow and we didn't summit until after sunset. Still the stunning sunset over the temperature inversion and the surrounding snow covered mountains gave the scene an alpine feel. The exit from the route onto the summit ridge was particularly beautiful. We enjoyed a relaxed bite to eat in the gathering dark and a night descent back to the car. All in all a memorable day out.