A FEW DAYS IN WEST KERRY

 Sunday December 3rd;

I had a few days holidays left for the year so I decided that I would head to Port Magee between Cahersiveen and Valentia for a few days. It is a fairly long drive to reach there so I decided to do a hike near Killarney and drive back afterwards. I opted to do a quick up and down of Mangerton which would give me a taste of the wilds and wouldn't take up the whole day. It was quite foggy while I was driving back and the temperature was down to just one degree. I was hopeful that I would be able to enjoy some views above the fog and that is what transpired.

Stoompa, Crohane and The Paps stretch to the east

Torc, Purple Mt and The Reeks and more

I left the busy trailhead at Tooreencormick at 10.15 and set off up the track. The hard frosts of the previous few nights had done their work and the boggy and mucky sections were pretty frozen. It made for easy going. I was delighted to find that before long I was starting to see blue sky through the blanket of fog and soon I was adrift above the sea of mist and the glory of the mountains stood proud all about me. It was a simple joy to be out. I continued to the top, all the while enraptured by the scene. Once up on the summit rim I decided that the day was too nice to be cut short so I decided to stay high and complete the circuit of the Horses Glen, so I headed for Stoompa. It was wonderful easy going on the frozen ground and after just a few kilometres the gradual pull to the summit began. As I was nearing the top I spotted another climber enjoying a bite to eat and when I reached him I was delighted to discover it was my friend Connie Looney. We enjoyed a fine old time as we completed the round together and all too soon we reached our cars. 

After the hike I drove the remaining 80 kilometres to my accommodation near Portmagee. I checked into my B&B and relaxed for a bit, before setting off to Knightstown, where I hoped to do some fishing. It came as a shock to discover that the wind had risen significantly, and, while I did fish for nearly two hours, it was very uncomfortable in the freezing wind and frequent splashes from the waves. I called it a night early and retreated back to my room. Not everything is perfect I guess.

Monday December 4th;

The weather was beautiful and sunny this morning but a cold wind still blew. I wanted to do some fishing tonight and I hoped that the wind would ease. Before that I wanted to get another hike in. The nearby Bray Head would be too short so I decided to leave my car where it was and explore the hills that rose behind my accommodation. There was a broad boggy ridge that reached just about 400 metres but it stretched all the way to the cliffs that looked out towards The Skelligs and I reckoned what it lacked in height it would more than make up for in views. So decision made, I put on my gear and set off.

The first thing I had to figure out was how to access the open hillside, as underneath there was a patchwork of farms. Off to the left there was some forestry planted and I reckoned that once I accessed that then I would be able to reach the hillside from there. There was a lane that stretched in towards it so I headed for there. After an initial kilometre on the main road I was soon on the lane. A waymarked trail runs along this lane so I followed it until I reached the woods. Unfortunately the way into the forestry was completely overgrown with gorse and brambles, so I returned to a patch of scrubby pasture where some cattle grazed, and tried to reach the mountain from there. I succeeded after some prickly encounters with gorse and before long I was slogging up through the wet ground. It was just a 250mtr pull to reach the crest of the ridge but it was energy sapping stuff, as, in the long grass and sticky bog, each step was hard won. On the plus side, the views were as wonderful as I had hoped. Across to Valentia was lovely but it was the view to the west where the mountains rose up from the bay, that was a true delight. The odd squall of rain came and went and these only added to the beauty and drama of the landscape. Once on the broad crest I could see down to Ballinskelligs Bay, and I could follow the line of mountains from where they rose from the sea all the way to the Reeks. It was heady stuff but the cold wind didn't allow for too much time to linger and I set off towards the highest point of the day Knocknaskereighta at 395mtrs.

Looking towards Bray Head

What a view...Looking back 

Always a delight to see The Skelligs

Thankfully the going was now easier as there was a faint track near an old fence line. I soon reached the featureless top and stopped to admire the view. And what a view it was. It always is a delight to see The Skelligs and this was a new angle for me to view them. I was once again under their spell and in great spirits as I headed to the next top where a collection of communication masts lay. Now these are not the prettiest things in the world, but there was so much else to please the eye that I didn't mind them at all. After the masts a road stretches all to way to the top of Coumanaspic. Here I paused to look at a poster that gives dubious information about the cycle that crosses over the pass. I felt that they had no need to exaggerate the route, as I know all too well just how steep and tough a cycle it is. Short it may be but when you get gradients reaching over 15% then I struggle big time. After the pass a short pull reaches the final top of the day. A broad dome that offers stunning views in all directions, but most especially out to the Skelligs. Now I turned right and soon reached the spectacular cliffs that drop over 200 metres to the sea. More wonderful views follow, and after climbing to the top of an outcrop, I turned and descended the steep bog to reach the road that stretches down to Portmagee. After a few kilometres I was I the village and I once again joined the main road and walked the final couple of kilometres back to my room.

It had been a delightful walk. Some of the ground I would guess doesn't see too many visitors and it was mostly all new to me. A total of 17 kilometres, just 650 metres ascent in 4 hours.

Tuesday December 5th;

The fishing had been very good the previous evening and thankfully the wind had eased a bit so it hadn't felt so cold. It had still been quite windy though, so it came as a surprise to emerge from my room to a still and frosty morning. I still hadn't made up my mind what to do today. All I knew was I was heading home. I had considered going to The Reeks and climbing Carrauntoohil but with the top few hundred metres iced up I reckoned that I might need crampons so I discounted that. As I drove towards Cahersiveene, Knocknadobar looked lovely, so once again I chose there.

Frosty fields by the shores...yesterdays walk on the hills just right of centre.

It was a gorgeous morning. No wind and frozen turf made it a delight to be on the hillside. I followed the trail until it crossed the fence and then I turned and headed directly towards the crest of the ridge that descends south-westerly from the summit. This gave a stiff near 300 metre pull that cleared any lingering cobwebs and the reward of the stunning views to be enjoyed made the extra effort well worth it. This ridge offers one of my favourite viewpoints in Kerry and I relaxed for a minute or two and took it in. 

Looking east

Now the going is easier as height is gradually gained and before too long I was on the broad summit. The view to the distant Reeks was lovely and they looked nice and wintery. It looked like I made the right decision to avoid them today. I decided to include the nearby east top in the hike and from there I contoured across to the north top. Now I turned and began the easy descent towards Coonanna Harbour. The view as you descend is delightful and it is a pleasure to pause often and look around. Soon I was down on the shoreline and a short walk on the quiet little road saw me reach the car. It had been a short but very satisfying outing and I had a smile on my face as I set off on the drive home. Kerry delivered yet again.