The Clare Burren Marathon Challenge

It was way back in 2013 that I last did a marathon. That was the "Run Clon" marathon and I had such a hard time that I swore that I would never do another one. Well...time dulls the memory and as I was back enjoying my running again I decided last January to enter the Clare Burren Marathon. I had last run this race in 2013. It is such a beautiful course, I thought that if I could enjoy any event, this would be it.
All was going well with my training until April 2nd when I managed to tear a calf muscle. I was just on the point of throwing in a few long training runs, when I was out of action for 5 weeks. I was afraid to do any long outings after that, in case I would aggravate the injury, so it is fair to say that I hadn't had the ideal preparation. As the race date neared, (May 25th), I had more or less decided that I would give it a miss, but at the last minute, I decided to head northwest, and basically, just see what happened. I drove up the evening before, and this time, instead of camping above the sea near Fanore, I went from Lisdoonvarna towards Ballyvaughan, and about half way there, I turned onto a little lane, in the hope of finding a quiet spot for my tent. Lo and behold, after a few kilometres, I happened upon a green road which was part of the marathon route, and I had found a perfect spot. I set up my tent, and set about cooking my dinner. I sat and enjoyed the open views and the sound of cuckoos calling. At least I enjoyed it for a little while, until the midges found me very much to their liking, and set about their own repast with some vigour. They were the worst I have encountered, since I was last in Scotland in the summer time. A quick retreat into my tent made for an early night. It started to rain and continued into the night.


It was still drizzling in the morning, and the cloud hung low over the hills. A stiff breeze had long since put paid to the midges, so I was able to breakfast in peace (the rain had also ceased by now). I decamped and drove the 10 kilometres to the pretty village of Ballyvaughan, where I collected my race number and loosed out and chilled, until the start time of 9 am. A nice atmosphere was building as the numbers increased, and soon it was time for the off.
Nice and easy does it, was pretty much all that was in my head, as I trundled along the first few miles. I was feeling pretty good, but I was determined to listen to my body, and not overexert myself. Next, we went off road, and very gradually, rose onto the wild rugged landscape of the Burren. This is a beautiful wild place, with its limestone crags and pavements, where Arctic and Mediterranean flora mingle. Normally the views to the sea and the Connemara mountains are also divine...but not today. Today cloud and mist dominated, but at times this is no harm, as the underfoot conditions can require come care. After mile 7 the going eases, and the next mile loses some height, before you reach a narrow lane (the one I camped by), and a gentle descent eases you to the 11 mile mark. Now comes the steepest part of the route, and most everybody walks most of the next mile, as you climb on a green road to the top of a broad hill. A long undulating stretch follows before you reach another road where you descend for over two miles into the village of Fanore at the 16 mile mark.
Now it starts to get real.
Now nearly a mile follows on the main road, before you turn off and run alongside the stunning Fanore beach on a stony little trail, that makes it difficult to maintain a good rhythm. Back up to the road (briefly), before a run and walk up a steep lane, and you once again go off road, and follow a trail that rises high into the hillside, and contours around Black Head. This is an amazing section. On a good weather day, the scenery helps to take the mind off the increasing fatigue, (and the fatigue was most definitely increasing), and it takes you all the way past mile 22. You then drop down to the road again, and follow this for the final few miles back to the finish line. In every marathon I have ever done, I have had to break into a walk, on occasions, over the final few miles, but today I somehow managed to keep running the whole way. It was certainly not easy, but it was not dreadful either. I was still exhausted well before the end arrived. I had hoped that I would break the 4 hour mark, but it wasn't to be, as I crossed in 4 hours 28 seconds. As I sat and recovered, I was nonetheless very proud to have completed another marathon. I have already started looking at possible new ones in the future.

I was as tired as this picture shows..It doesn't get any easier

A traverse of the Dingle Peninsula (The Haute Route)

A good weather forecast and a few days off coincided so I headed to Tralee on the train with my fully laden rucksack and set off on a three day quest to do a full traverse of the beautiful Dingle Peninsula.

Friday May 3rd;

 I alighted from the train in a sunny Tralee at 11am and boarded the bus heading for Dingle. I went as far as the nearby village of Blennerville where I left the bus and treated myself to a coffee and the biggest slice of "Rocky Road" I have ever seen. So suitably overdosed on sugar I set off on my long walk at 11.45.

Back towards Tralee

Rough ground all the way to the ridge.

Initially I walked the kilometre or so along the busy road (this can be avoided) but then I joined the lane that rises gently up towards the open mountain beyond. The weather was glorious, with a gentle breeze and plenty of sunshine. By the time I reached the end of the road I was sweating from carrying the heavy bag and still wearing my jacket. I took off a layer and had a drink and set off into the wild. My plan was simple. To reach the crest/spine of the mountains and basically follow this, crossing over the mountain tops all the way to the furthest extreme of the peninsula. This would take me three days and should offer a proper wild mountain experience. First up though I had to reach the crest and this involved a lengthy slog up gentle but boggy ground. I was aiming to reach the crest at around the 450 metre contour and this was about a kilometre west of the communication masts. Straight away once the laneway is left behind there is a wild feel. This only increases the further up the mountain you progress and very quickly the only noise I could hear (besides my laboured breathing) was a distant Cuckoo and the trill of a Skylark. The sun had retreated behind some clouds and with arctic air flowing over the country it was suddenly decidedly chilly. Back on went the coat which was later joined by hat and gloves. Winter wasn't that long ago after all.

View towards Iveragh

The way ahead is much more serpentine than appears from below

Despite the late start I wasn't worried about time as there was a long evening ahead and sunset wasn't until after 9pm. That isn't to say I was taking it easy and I kept up a good pace on the climb to the crest. As I neared the crest the wind increased further and it was now at times buffeting. A layer of cloud clung to the highest tops but elsewhere the views were wonderful and extensive. Now I know I have been here before but it is always exciting to reach the crest of a ridge when suddenly your views are doubled and the landscape beyond is revealed. Here the delights of the Iveragh Peninsula with its wild mountains is a joy to behold as it stretches out into the Atlantic on the other side of Dingle Bay. Indeed I could see further and the mountains stretched away to the east as far as my local hill Mount Hillary some fifty miles away. Behind me the delights of Tralee bay and the myriad of sandy beaches stretched into the north Kerry landscape. I was loving it. Now I had covered about 6 kilometres and climbed nearly 500 metres and I was well and truly into the outing. Easier walking on better ground followed as I passed over the tops of Barnanageehy, Knockauncorragh and Glanbrack on the serpentine ridge. Height is gradually gained and finally I reached the 200 metre slog to the stony summit of Bartregaum (851 metres). With cloud scudding across the chilly bleak summit I didn't delay and I set off towards Caherconree. Briefly I emerged under the clouds at the col between the summits and next up came the gentle 130 metre pull to the top. Again cloud spoiled the view so I turned and headed towards the ancient promontory fort on the shoulder of the mountain. I was soon under the cloud again and the views towards Inch and west towards Benoskee were gorgeous. I had now covered 16 kilometres and my thoughts were turning towards finding somewhere to camp for the night.

Descending Caherconree

Stunning views to the last hills of the day

Back to Caherconree

Starting the final descent. Camped near the small patch of forestry on the right.

I dropped easily along the boggy path towards the little road that rises from the village of Camp and once across this I headed for the outlier of the Slieve Mish range, Moanlaur 566 metres. Though more modest in height this is still rough wild ground and the climb up through heathery ground to Knockbrack and then to the main summit added another 300 metres of climbing to the day. Fatigue was becoming more of a factor so once I had dropped down the 250 metres on the northern flanks to the flat boggy ground below I was fully focused on finding a spot for my tent. This I found a couple of kilometres further on beside a metalled bog road and soon my home for the night was up. It was now nearly 19.30 so the day had taken over seven and a half hours. I had covered 24 kilometres and climbed nearly 1300 metres. It had been a worthy start to the trip. I enjoyed a hot meal and the remaining evening light before retiring to bed in the gloom. I hadn't seen another soul once I left the road and the only sounds to be heard was the call of birdsong. I slept well.

Room with a view for night 1

My old Alpkit Delta enjoying a rare outing

Saturday May 4th;

An insomniac skylark woke me before dawn but I was soon off into lala land again nice and snug in my down sleeping bag. I emerged at 6.30 into a beautiful calm bright morning and what a joy it was to breakfast in the wild and wonderful place. I was all packed up and ready to go at 07.15 and it was just a short walk along the road to reach the main Tralee to Dingle road and once across this I was once again on open ground and I followed the gently rising ridge that headed for the hills above Annascaul. This made for a delightful gentle start to the day and the views to the sea on either side were wonderful. Things gradually get tougher as the terrain gets boggier and going up and over Knocknakilton with its myriad of peat hags and holes makes for tiring progress. The breeze was quite strong and chill so it was another coat and hat day, despite the sun. Finally I reached the col under Dromavally Mountain where I left the worst of the ground behind and started up the 250 metre pull to the 552 metre summit. Time was slipping by quite quickly and it was already after 11am so I had to stop here for a bite to eat in the shade of the large and complex bronze age cairn. As I rested I surveyed the ground ahead and decided that today I would take the tougher continuance and climb Stradbally and Benoskee instead of heading along the ridge that rises from the southern side of the wide expanse of bog that stretches west.

The locals weren't too bothered

The way ahead..towards Benoskee

The way way back

Pastoral foreground with The Reeks and Iveragh beyond

The walk above and around the back of Glanteenassig is lovely but soon I was down at the wide pass and I had to start my climb of Stradbally 798 metres. I would love to be able to say that the 350 metre climb flew by but it seemed in fact interminable but boy oh boy was the reward of the views worth the effort. It is a stunning viewpoint. Here you are basically in the very heart of the peninsula and the views back to the start are great but it is the majesty of the Brandon massif that takes the breath away. It seemed to beckon me on and reinvigorated me for the journey ahead. A short drop from the stony summit and it is an easy climb to reach the higher Benoskee (826 mtrs). Here I enjoyed my lunch and relaxed before dropping easily to the boggy plain below. Now some 500 metres lower I was faced with the energy sapping gradual ascent towards Slievanea. There is no easy way to do it as the wet ground saps the legs and seems to go on for ever. Eventually though, I reached the point where, after I had crossed the sizeable river before Slievenalecka, I had to contour around to the edge of the little lake and and then commence the very steep 250 metre climb to Slievanea. It was very tiring and when I reached the top (another amazing viewpoint) I rested awhile and once again my mind turned to finding somewhere to camp.  I contemplated going all the way to the lake under Fallaghnamara but that would take another two hours or so and I had already been on the move for nearly 9 and I was tired so I decided to pitch up at the nearest possible spot. I walked around to final top above Peddlars Lake and basically headed due south across the gently boggy slope and before too long I had found my home for the night. I had lovely views down to Dingle town and harbour and beyond to the Blasket Islands. I whiled away a very enjoyable evening in the quiet landscape and soaked in the views until the sun had set. Approx 25 kilometres covered with 1350 metres of ascent in just over 9 hours and I hadn't seen another soul all day today either.

Stradbally rising above Glanteenassig

Benoskee and the Brandon massif from Stradbally

The Maherees

The long bog slog with Slievanea on right...easier to follow the left crest

Campsite number two

Sunday May 5th;

There had been a frost overnight and I emerged into a bright clear morning with not a puff of wind. I quickly ate and packed up as it was quite cold but it was a lovely gentle start to the day as I descended to the Conner Pass. I was nice to be here before the masses arrived to enjoy the views but I must give a special mention to the total gobshite that left a few beer cans strewn in the carpark..what a despicable cretin. Anyway to better things.

A chilly start

I climbed away into the wilds again and soon my mind was more engrossed with the wonderful place I found myself in. The broad boggy summit of Ballysitteragh (623 metres) was a wonderful place to pause and enjoy the wonderful 360 degree panorama. Next comes the drop to the pass below Fallaghnamara and then more climbing as I headed towards Gearhane and Brandon Peak. The 400 metre climb is broken in the middle by the level ground beyond Fallaghnamara but it is fair to say I was warm by the time I crossed the "highest gate in Ireland" to reach Gearhane. It was just a stunning morning with warm sun and uninterrupted views in all directions. Things only get better as you head to Brandon Peak and here I stopped for a bit of sustenance.

What a morning. 

I still hadn't met another soul since I started out but I could see other hikers approaching as I headed towards Mount Brandon. Most of the climbing was done for the day except for the near 300 metre pull to the summit of one of my favourite mountains anywhere. It came as something of a shock to find myself in the midst of a group of fellow hikers after so much solitude so I didn't linger. I enjoyed some lunch and soon I was mostly on my own again as I headed along the beautiful ridge towards Masatiompán. A final push to this rounded top and then it was an easy thing to follow the Dingle Way down for a while before I crossed and followed the cliff edge. From the edge the views are predictably spectacular and I couldn't help but marvel at the place where people lived in the famine times. Living among the sloping stony paddocks, situated above the roaring seas and a full 1000 foot climb to exit the area, must have required incredible ingenuity and no small measure of desperation in order to survive. We are indeed fortunate to live when we do. Anyway a final drag saw me reach the 350 metre top at Breennaman and I then dropped to reach the trail that leads easily to the roadside. I briefly debated hitching to Dingle but instead I rang for a taxi which duly arrived and whisked me into the super busy town. Today's effort took me just 7 hours, covered over 21 kilometres and had over 1000 metres of climbing in truly spectacular scenery. I had time for a coffee and delicious cake before I caught the bus back to Tralee. It had been a delightful few days and I basked in the glow of having completed one of the finest wild walks in Ireland.  

Coastal walks to die for

What an extraordinary place to have to had to live

Puts it in context

A return to Snowdonia

I have been doing a fair bit of running, my usual hiking and I've even tried to fit in a  few visits to Awesome Walls in Cork so I had hoped to be in better shape for a bit of rock climbing. With that in mind I answered a shout from a guy on UK Climbing for a partner on "easy stuff" in North Wales for Saturday and Sunday April 6th and 7th.

I had a long weekend off work so I decided on the easier option of travel this time and caught the afternoon ferry from Dublin to Holyhead. I had intended to camp at the excellent Platts Farm in Llanfeirfechan so it was with some disappointment I discovered en-route that it was booked out. I opted instead to stay at a cheap hotel in Bangor and it was still nearly dark when I checked in. I think the overnight ferry is probably just as easy.

Saturday April 6th;

Craig Condie met me on a beautiful sunny Saturday morning and he had decided to do Amphitheatre Buttress. I have done this a few times before and I was delighted at the choice and reasonably confident I would be able to do it. I didn't have a map and neither did Craig so our first problem was to find the right road to the car park near Llyn Eigiau. Now I know I have been there before but I have a less than perfect memory and using mobile phone maps and my dodgy recollections we went wrong and found ourselves going up from Trfriw, turning around and finally heading up the correct lane from Tal y Bont. Alas we took a left turn higher up and ended up at the small reservoir at Coedty. Oh dear it wasn't the most auspicious start but on the plus side it was a gorgeous morning and the snowy mountains looked wonderful. I had been a bit taken aback by the amount of snow that was still on the mountains and I wondered if rock climbing would be possible but I reckoned that a buttress like the one we were heading towards should be snow free and provide a good adventure.

Parking where we did added a couple of kilometres to the walk in and we made another mistake in crossing the bog to reach the correct car park rather than stay on the track we were on. Lets just say that this was energy sapping and was more akin to post-holing  through crusty snow than anything else. Finally we were on the correct route and we gladly hot footed it into the spectacular valley. Around into Cwm Eigiau and past the old disused mine and the route looms dead ahead. Snow now lay on the ground and after the steep climb to the base of the route we geared up and readied for the fray.
I started up the first pitch. Starting at the very bottom the first few moves are fingery and slabby and the wet snowy soles of my boots didn't inspire confidence but it isn't difficult and I was off. I soon reached the corner where you have to move left onto the continuing slab. I have always found this difficult and stepping off snow onto the slab I found too daunting so I asked Craig to have a look instead...oh dear. He climbed up to the corner and found the hand hold that is higher up above the corner (which I cannot reach) and he was up. He finished off the pitch and I followed up. I wasn't climbing well but I was okay. Craig continued up to the base of the slab pitch but he couldn't figure out the start so I joined him to have a look. I found the start (on the right side) and I was off. This is a superb pitch with continuous interesting top quality climbing and while I was not really comfortable I got up to the top and brought Craig up. Next comes the crux pitch and I led this as well. I was less than stylish but I got up it and again Craig followed me. We moved together until we reached the "pinnacle" pitch and again I went first across this short but interesting little arret. Again we moved together until we reached the next awkward step which I just couldn't figure out. I knew there was a stretchy step but I wasn't spotting it so Craig again took over. He was just out of sight when he made the moves and climbed up but once I followed it was again a struggle for me and it was a disgraceful shuffling desperate couple of metres for me. Bollocks. Just below the top there was another step and once again I struggled there but once Craig went up I found the bomber hand hold that made it easy..another bollocks moment. I need to make a final decision soon on my climbing future.

Topping out to an alpine landscape

Craig

Back near the car in the evening light

 Anyway all that aside it felt great to top out into an alpine landscape and we were in great spirits as we enjoyed a late and well deserved bite to eat. We descended back to the valley via Bwlch y Marchog and hot footed it back to the car. It was nearly 7pm by the time we were back and Craig then dropped me around to the campsite at Capel Curig. Craig had been a real gent throughout the day and is excellent company and a fine climber and while there was a half hearted agreement to see each other the following day, I wasn't expecting much after my poor performance and frankly it would be a relief if things ended there. Besides I was too tired to be too bothered as it was 8.30pm by the time I was cooking dinner and I went straight to bed when done. A long excellent sleep followed.

Sunday April 7th;

After a fine sleep I emerged into another promising weather morning. While it was cloudy on the tops there were patches of blue sky about. I was full of aches and pains from having used muscles yesterday that were obviously sorely underused and feeling a bit sorry for myself as well, as once again I had to deal with my increasing lack of climbing skills. I hadn't heard from Craig so I decided to walk from the campsite to the Glyderau plateau. The cloud hung at around 700 metres but I was hopeful that things would clear. Leaving the village past the new Joe Browne shop ( the old Pinnacle Stores shop is gone) I crossed the stile at the farm and headed up the craggy ground towards Cefn y Capel. The next couple of kilometres are very boggy and then you climb steeply for nearly 300 metres towards the twin topped Gallt yr Ogof. Now I was in the cloud and visibility was absent and once again I was bemoaning the fact that I hadn't brought any maps. I followed the trail over Y Foel Goch and here there was some snow cover that made following the trail more difficult. I was on the point of turning back when the cloud lifted and like Saul on the road to Damascus I was shown the way.

A cloudy start

Otherworld

The view towards Snowdon

Tryfan

On the 200 metre pull to the summit plateau I tried to avoid the slushy snow patches where possible and progress was steady. The other good thing was the weather. Clearances became frequent and by the time I was at the top of the rocky almost alien landscape of Glyder Fach it was mostly clear most of the time. I decided to continue on to the summit of Glyder Fawr and by then I was mostly in sunshine. What a treat it was, with this gorgeous otherworldly landscape looking great and now expanding views to the other mountains nearby coming into view. The views across to Snowdon from the top were a delight. As it was now so nice and having missed out on the views as I ascended I decided to return the same way to the campsite. Back near YFoel Goch the vista of Tryfan (clearly very busy) and Bristly Ridge rising to Glyder Fach was a real treat and of course the glory of the Snowdon Horseshoe also drew the eye. It was warm and sunny all the way back and another senior moment was the fact that I also had left the sunscreen back in my tent. I got a good scalding. Back down and a good shower and change of clothes went some way to restoring me and after a refreshing cuppa I hitched into Betws for some provisions (Pinnacle Stores is missed). A very pleasant evening ensued and my spirit was restored.

Monday April 8th;

I wasn't sure what I was going to do today, whether to head home early doors or go for a hike. The weather forecast was uncertain and promised cloud and rain in the afternoon but when I emerged from my tent it was pretty good with some high cloud but plenty of clear skies as well. I decided to head for the Pen y Pass and do the Snowdon Horseshoe. I was too early for the bus so I walked into the village and hitched a lift towards the pass. I quickly got a lift as far as the junction near the hotel. I walked from there up the path as far as the pass and then joined the hoards. It was cool and a little breezy but the cloud seemed to be lifting and Crib Goch was in full view. I enjoyed the scramble to the summit but it was disappointing that the cloud arrived as I neared the crest of the ridge. The wind was quite strong up here as well but it wasn't buffeting so crossing the ridge was fine. I enjoyed the pinnacles as usual and some of the best climbing is reserved for the final slopes before you reach Garnedd Ugain. With only the very occasional breaks in the cloud there was no reason to stop and I turned and rejoined the masses once I reached the track that comes up from Llanberis. The summit of Snowdon was the usual massing of hikers of all ages and abilities and I quickly passed beyond it so as to find relative peace for an early lunch. I was very conscious of my lack of a map and in the clag and with some snow laying about I decided not to try and find the correct continuation path and instead returned to the pass via the Pyg track. I walked back down the path to the Roman Camp and once again tried my hand at hitching back to Capel Curig. No joy this time but I was able to catch the bus anyway. It was a little disappointing not to complete the horseshoe but Crib Goch is always a pleasure and is ample compensation for missing the rest. The only pity is that Snowdon itself is so so busy. Don't go there expecting solitude.

I enjoyed a relaxing couple of hours back at the tent before beginning the long journey home. Three days in one of my favourite places...no rain...some excellent rock climbing (at least an excellent route) and getting sunburned on the Glyderau...life is good.