A Tour of Torridon and Assynt.

Saturday April 6th;

 After my climbing trip to Torridon in late February I went back with Margaret to share with her the unrivaled beauty of the area. Once again I took the sleeper train to Inverness and we set off on Saturday morning in our hire car for the west. The weather forecast for the three days available to us wasn't great but we were delighted to find ourselves enjoying bright sunshine and views of snow capped mountains. I had feared that Margaret might not get to experience the majesty of the scenery but at least today it seemed would be good so she could see for herself what I had been waxing lyrical about for the past five weeks. As we reached Achnasheen I was reminded of my mis-adventure, geographically speaking, and here we got our first views to Liathach and Bienn Eighe. After stopping to take some photos at Loch a Chroisg we continued to Kinlochewe and turned onto the single track road to Torridon. Here we stopped at Loch Clair and enjoyed the famous views towards Liathach from here. Time slipped past and we decided that Margaret would visit Inverewe Gardens on Sunday morning instead of this afternoon as originally planned and we explored the area at our leisure for the rest of the afternoon.

Liathach

View from Achnasheen

Slioch

We arrived in Poolewe about five in the afternoon and once we were settled in our B&B I took advantage of the proximity of a ready made run and did a circuit of Loch Kernsary before dinner. This was a joy as the first half was along an estate road where I soon entered the wild spectacular landscape with views back along Loch Maree towards Beinn Eighe and Beinn Airigh Charr. Then you suddenly arrive at the lake and the return is along a delightful trail that wends and winds its way along the lake shore back to the village. So after an hours worth of trail running heaven I was ready for dinner which was a tasty fish and chips in the local hotel. The forecast for the next day wasn't good but at least we had had a great day today and we would take whatever tomorrow would bring in our stride.

Sunday April 7th;

We awoke to a winter landscape of snow this morning. Cloud was hovering at only 200mtrs or so and it was snowing steadily and there were already several centimeters resting on the ground. It didn't look good for either of our planned activities today. There didn't seem much point in Margaret visiting Inverewe Gardens or in m,e trying to do a long trail run through the snow. By the time we went down for breakfast the snow had stopped and an imperceptible lightening of the sky was in evidence. As we lingered before we had to leave there arrived a little thaw and the snow retreated slowly up from sea level and conditions looked like they were on the up so we were all set and Margaret headed for the gardens and I readied myself for my run. I was now regretting eating a prodigious breakfast but I set off at lets just say a gentle pace. The plan was to head along the estate road from the evening before and when I reached the point of the trail along the lake I could extend my route all the way to the road end about five kilometers further on and retrace my steps and them follow the trail along Loch Kernsary. This I did and it was a treat. What a great feeling it was to be running through such a beautiful landscape with not a care in the world and where all I had for company were deer and what was perhaps an eagle soaring over the hill to my right. I arrived back at the car after two and a quarter hours tired but very happy.

Looking across Loch Maree towards Torridon

Loch Kernsary

We had a nice sweet treat in a little cafe in the village and then headed north. By now the day was lovely with big patches of blue sky and only a chill breeze to remind you of the snow of early morning. We were both delighted with our respective mornings and we were looking forward to the new scenery and landscapes that were ahead. First up was Dundonnell which sits at the head of Little Loch Broom and is towered over by the iconic An Teallach which unfortunately kept a blanket of cloud on its summits. Still there was much to please the eye and once we passed the village we climbed and crossed the vast expanse of bleak wilderness to its south before we arriver over the more verdant valley that reaches out from Loch broom. Soon we were in Ullapool and we had a little wander around here before we set off north again towards Assynt. It wasn't long before I had to stop the car and look in wonder at some of the most beautiful scenery I had ever seen. A succession of stunning vistas which framed some of the most iconic mountains in Scotland made for frequent interruptions but each delay was so worth it. Stac Pollaidh was like something captured from Lord of the Rings. It could have been Mordor itself. As if that wasn't enough next came Suilvan, followed by Quinag and many more. I was hooked and could only agree with all the great things I had heard about this wild and wonderful part of Scotland. We now had to turn our attention to finding somewhere to stay and after calling at a couple of places that were full we found a lovely B&B in the interestingly named Scourie which nestles at the head of its own little bay and here we enjoyed a lovely sunset after  I had my first dinner of Haggis Neeps and Tatties.

Stac Pollaidh

Towards Ullapool

Suilvan

Typical scenery

Quinag

A couple of the locals

Monday 8th;

Once again blue skies were the order of the day and we emerged to a sunny and decidedly chilly morning. I went for a run after breakfast and the plan was to cross the rough ground from the village to the little cove of Tarbet and then return via the road. There was supposed to be a track across the wild ground but as is my wont I couldn't find it and I had to try and make my way through bog and heather and rock outcrops. It was unrunable so I found myself having to walk a lot of the time and I was relieved to be able to join the road before the village and run back to the car. We set off north for a short while before we turned finally in a southerly direction and began our return to Inverness. I suppose that today Ben Stack was the star of the show and proved yet again that a mountain doesn't have to reach Munroe status to be either impressive or beautiful. We drove at our leisure along big impressive lakes from which mountains reached skyward. As we went further south the landscape became less wild and eventually agriculture and I suppose what you could call civilization became the norm. We stopped awhile in the charming and pretty town of Tain and then returned into Inverness and enjoyed a nice dinner and had a little stroll around this nice little city. Soon the time arrived for us to catch the south and we begun the long journey home. Once again Scotland had delivered and I can only recommend that you visit its extraordinary northwest region. I look forward to returning and continuing to explore.

Sunset over Scourie Bay

Ben Stack

Towards Foinaven

Ben Stack

The Cappagh Glen Killarney Easter 13

A swim anyone??

Yesterday I went back to Killarney to meet Frank. We decided, as the day was wet and windy, to visit the Cappagh Glen near Lough Guitane. It had been a while since either of us had been here, and we were looking forward to seeing again, one of the most beautiful places in the area. Once we had negotiated the obstacle course, that is the road to the trailhead, we set off into the biting wind and rain. For a change, instead of heading directly into the glen, we opted to climb the steep northeast flank of Eskduff Mountain. Fortunately the rain had eased off, and we were able to enjoy the flat walk past the productive pastures, before we reached the wilds of the inner glen. Here, we had to cross the Cappagh River, which today, after the dry spell of weather, presented no problems. At our crossing point, there was a glorious pool just below a little waterfall, which we were briefly tempted to have a plunge in, but good sense prevailed, and we vowed to return when better weather arrived.

We are going that way??

The face of exhaustion

Wonderful views

What a trooper

The slog up Eskduff has little to recommend it, but at least we gained height quickly, and soon the views opened up, and afforded us good reasons to stop and rest. The wind was pretty fierce, and at times it was a struggle to maintain balance, as it tried to blow us this way and that. The clouds that blanketed the top, were fairly scudding by, and promised that conditions weren’t going to get better as we got higher. Eventually, we reached the summit plateau, and we briefly toyed with the idea of turning west and heading for Stoompa, but the wind, and now snow, that was hitting us, made up our minds, and we opted to traverse across and descend to the back of the Cappagh Glen. Here, we entered the beautiful wild terrain, that remains one of Killarney’s best kept secrets. Even though the heights reached here, are low in comparison to the larger neighbours nearby, there is a truly wild and remote feel to this place, that is rare to find in Ireland. Rugged rocky bluffs and boggy basins, make it tough ground to cross, and you are unlikely to see another person to disturb you. Even the red deer we saw, seemed startled by the intrusion into their domain. After we sheltered behind some rocks for lunch, we had to head straight into the wind to reach the valley, and here the snow, that was hitting us in a horizontal assault, made it tough going, especially when it catches you right into the eyes.

Head down into the wind

Having fun really

Corkscrew oaks

Fairy Glen

Eventually, we reached the sanctuary of the ancient oak woods, that straddle the river in the glen. This is a magic place, where trees are gnarled and twisted into strange formations, and everything is blanketed by a generous coating of moss. Sheltered from the elements, it is easy to linger here, and imagine fantastic adventures with a child’s mind. Soon, we reluctantly left the wood, and entered the flat open ground at the back of the glen. |Here, the eye is drawn along the glen, that is flanked on the west by Eskduff, and the east by the rugged Bennaunmore. We followed the river out through the rocky narrows, and all too soon left the untamed landscape behind, and re-entered farmland. It had been a fairly short outing, but what it lacked in distance, it more than made up for in ambiance. We even enjoyed the harsh weather, as it all added up, to make the experience feel even wilder. I had had two very different mountain days in succession, with different conditions and goals. The one thing that links them is the great company I was fortunate enough to enjoy on both days. 

Bennaunmore

Ice on Carrauntoohil and the Hot Aches

Today I went to Killarney and met up with Kevin and we headed to Carrauntoohil. We hoped to get in some ice climbing as the weather over the previous week had been cold and dry. I had hoped that there would have been some snow on the mountains as this would have given us further options but it was clear on the way back that no snow had fallen on the hills.With that door now closed to us, there being good ice was now our only chance of a good climb. Mountaineers, especially in winter are a hard bunch to please and I felt kinda silly bemoaning the fact that the day was sunny so it might get too warm and there had been no snow so we wouldn't get any mixed routes in. As I said, hard to please. Anyway I also knew that a day with Kevin would be a good one regardless. We set off after me getting my usual coffee and headed for Cronins Yard where there is secure parking and great facilities and started out from there. Kevin was feeling in top form and it showed as despite carrying the rope he set off like an express train and I was literally having to break into a jog to keep up. Fair to say that we made rapid progress.

Feeling better after the aches

As we gained height we were delighted to see that there was indeed lots of spots of ice to be seen but the quantity was sparse and none of the lines looked really complete. I was reasonably confident/hopeful that "The Lick" would be climbable but I was to be disappointed when we arrived at the second level of Coumeenoughter and could see that the bottom two pitched were almost non existent and high up things still looked thin. We had no choice but to turn away and after a little disappointed discussion we headed for Curve Gully. There was enough ice here and the bottom thirty meters had some decidedly tricky sections. I had brought the wrong gloves with me and at the bottom of the climb I couldn't fit them on and had to rely on my thin liner ones. Predictably in short order my fingers were frozen and I lost all feeling and started to feel a little queasy. Then I started to feel the beginning of the dreaded "Hot Aches" and that queasy feeling got worse. I had to go and sit down and when I eventually got the liner gloves off I put my hands into my arm pits and waited for things to run their course. It had been a while since I got a dose like this and it was dreadful .At times I wasn't sure whether I would faint or get sick or possibly both at once and I just sat and waited. All the while Kevin was like a mother hen who fussed about me and tried to keep my mind occupied until the worst passed. He sorted out my gloves for me and when I had sufficiently recovered to try and get the gloves on they were toasty warm from him blowing into them. A small bite to eat and a drink and eventually I was able to continue.

Some nice ice about half way up.

Not exactly "technical" but at least the axes and crampons were out.

Up near the summit

My minder.

Slowly at first I was soon back into the groove and there was some nice little sections as we got higher. The ice was at times bullet hard and the front points weren't exactly digging in deep but it was all fairly straightforward. Eventually we were above the ice and we had a nice ribbon of neve to the summit. Here we rested a while and enjoyed the wonderful views in all directions. I had expected the wind to be strong on top but we were curiously sheltered as we enjoyed a sip of coffee. It was still chilly and we didn't linger too long and we set off down in the direction of the Devils Ladder. Now the wind found us and it was a vicious one that cut right through into the sinus'. Thankfully we weren't exposed to it too long and by the time we turned for the Heavenly Gates we were out of the worst. By the time we were back down I must confess to being a bit tired as the effects of an eight mile run on Bweeng Mountain the evening before and Kevins blistering pace of earlier took its toll. Still it was a good tired and we were both in good spirits despite not really getting the type of route we had hoped done. Its always good to be with someone who simply loves getting out and about and makes the most of the day regardless of what conditions bring. We both realize that we are fortunate indeed to be able to visit these wonderful places.

Caher from the summit of Carrauntoohil

Another Run On The Kerry Way.

March 23rd;

Yesterday myself and Kevin took the opportunity to have a run in the wilds of Kerry. It had been a while since our last outing and I was really looking forward to it. We had hoped to have a run along a section of the Kerry Way, starting in Couneemduff in the shadow of the mighty "Reeks" and running over the gap between Broughnabinnea and Carrauntoohil into the Bridia Valley and incorporate a climb of Caher on the way before returning to the start via the "Lack Road". Alas the weather was rubbish and while the rain wouldn't have been a problem the gale force winds that were forecast would have made traversing the high ridges on Caher too dangerous, so we were forced to rethink our route. Fortunately a ready alternative was available so we were able to start at the same place and opt out of Caher and run via the "Lack Road" and Lough Acoose into Glencar and from there to the Bridia Valley and back to the car. All told this involved a distance of 30 kilometers and still involved over 900 meters of climbing despite leaving out Caher.

If you say you can run up a hill that steep I believe you

The Bridia Valley

The start of the Lack Road

You want the zip lower yes??

What a dynamo, not.

We met in Killarney at 10.20 and after picking up some supplies ( sweeties) we set off for the start of the route. This is still quite a journey an bad roads so it was bang on 11.30 when we left the car. There was no incentive needed to get started as the wind and damp ensured that we were anxious to get moving to stay warm. Despite the cloud covering the mountain tops and the inclement weather this is still a wonderful place to be so we were in great form as we set off. The route starts along a rough road and then goes around the back of the isolated farmhouse that rests in the end of the valley before it crosses the rough, stoney, wet ground and winds its way gently to the gap. Care was needed here as it would be really easy to have a fall on the slippery rocks. Along the way we were discussing the merits or otherwise of using Gore Tex in trail runners and I think we quickly dismissed the idea as a bad one when we frequently found ourselves sploshing through deep puddles and bog. While there are occasional efforts made to make a proper track on the route the norm is that there is only a succession of marker poles and the route follows the best possible way between them. By the time we reached the gap we were well into our stride and our first views down into the Bridia Valley were a joy. Not that we could stay looking up for too long as the steep descent was rocky and slippy and required our full concentration.

Eventually we reached the little road that winds its way into the back of the valley and we ran easily to the start of the "Lack Road" where our next climb awaited us. There is on the lower section a vague track that winds back and forth up the steep slope before petering out and once again you have to hop, skip and jump, if you are able, along boggy rough ground. Eventually after a 300 meter pull we crested the ridge and it was from here we had intended to climb the long ridge to Caher but the wind which at times was really buffetting ensured we had no regrets in heading instead steeply down into the beautiful Derrynafeana Valley. Again great care was needed here but eventually we reached flatter ground and we ran along by the stream in the valley. It was our first time here and I was struck by the beauty of the place. Soon we reached another little lane that twisted, rose and dipped before eventually reaching the Glencar road. We had been on the go for nearly ninety minutes by now so we stopped briefly for a rest and a bite to eat. The weather was showing some signs of improvement and even the odd ray of sunshine appeared. The road here while a bit wider than the others is still twisty and later in the season can be busy with tourist traffic. Today however we only encountered a few cars on this stretch and the four or five kilometers to Glencar were quite pleasant  Along the way Kevin showed off his deep knowledge of all things equine when he pointed out the extremely rare "Horsey Pony Thingy" standing in the rough paddock alongside the road. Astonished and excited I turned to get a look and was disappointed to only see a sad looking donkey looking back at me.

The beautiful Derrynafeana Valley

Typical scenery near Lough Acoose

Perhaps it was this that brought on the "Paula Radcliff" moment.

Heading back with the end in sight

My excitement must have gotten the better of me because the Climbers Inn arrived none too soon and I only just avoided having to do a "Paula Radcliffe". Still the chance to sit and rest for a while was welcome and I emerged refreshed and ready to face the return leg of our journey. The route now leaves the road and follows a "green road" for a couple of K. Here Kevin was determined to redeem himself and showed off his "Cow Whispering" skills by stopping and stroking the nose of an unsuspecting young heifer. Suitably impressed I pressed on. We soon reached the little road that stretches into the Bridia valley and begun the final section of the trip. My lack of long runs and the fact that we were now running directly into the wind told against me and as the nine kilometers to the roadhead passed I struggled more and more. Short sections where I walked helped and eventually we arrived at the stile that marked the start of the climb that would lead back into Coumeenduff. Surprisingly I didn't find the 200+ meter pull too bad and when we eventually crested the gap I was able to enjoy the next downhill section and the return to the car. We were back at 15.05 and while we were tired we were elated with our efforts. It had been a great experience in one of the remotest and wildest places in the country and while there were long sections on the road, these didn't take in any way from the overall feel and experience. Its always such a pleasure to be out and about but when you have good company with fun and laughter added to the mix, lets just say I am looking forward to more.

Mallow 10 Mile Run 2013

Yesterday I ran the Mallow 10 mile road race for the third time. This year due to injury and a trip to Scotland I hadn't really done much in the way of meaningful training before this one so I was quite apprehensive before the start. The sum total of my runs in the previous month amounted to two 10 Ks the week before. So I guess you know where this post is leading, I struggled big time in the race.
Anyway,  there was a superb entry of 1200 runners and the weather was perfect and as everybody gathered at the start there was a mounting sense of occasion and excitement which was infectious. I left the nerves behind and started to look forward to the challenge. My best time was done last year when I just went under 70 minutes. I had trained well for that but I was determined to try and emulate that time again this year. So from the off I stuck with the 70 minute pacers. This was a bit of a shock to the system as I found the pace really quick. Still I persevered and after the first mile there is a lengthy gentle downhill section and I was able to relax a bit more at the pace. The two, three and four mile markers passed and I was still with them but then I found that I just didn't have it in me to keep up anymore.

Feeling the pain.

 Slowly and almost imperceptibly the balloons bobbing above the pacers moved further and further in front of me. At around five and a half miles I made an effort to try and bridge the gap to the pacers who were now two hundred meters ahead and I did a little bit but the effort put in jeopardy my ability to actually finish the race and I had to just concentrate my efforts at just keeping going. Slowly and increasingly painfully the mile markers passed until I returned to the town and I knew I would actually get to the end. In the last mile I was passed by many runners as they were able to put on a burst of pace while I was getting ever more sluggish. Still despite the pain I couldn't help but feel a certain satisfaction that I had kept going and I had persevered. About four hundred meters from the finish a small child shouted out "Look there's Santa" and I couldn't help but have a big grin on my face for a while, I still do now. The finish line at last arrived and I was a bit gutted to pass through in 72 mins 40 seconds. Now I see that it wasn't really such a bad time considering the lack of training I had had but I am determined to break the 70 minute barrier in another run this year. Finally a big thanks to everybody for organizing such a great event. I have no doubt that it will go from strength to strength in the future. Well done to all.

Curve Gully Ridge in Winter

Yesterday I went with Frank to The Reeks in Kerry in the hope of having a possibly last hurrah winter climb. It had been quite cold  the previous few days and there had been a dumping of snow so I was hopeful that high on the mountain there would be decent winter conditions to be found. Alas when we left the car at 09.15 it was quite warm and it was evident that a substantial thaw was under way. Still we were in good spirits and looking forward to exploring. I reckoned that the best option and chance of good conditions would be Curve Gully Ridge IV 4 high on the north face of Carrauntoohil. The route is a really nice summer outing graded at HS and this would be my first attempt at it in winter so I was a little apprehensive but excited as well. It is always a pleasure to climb with Frank and on an outing such as this it felt good to have someone as solid as him for company.

Looking tempting but soft and cruddy.

Frank looking keen but the mountains east side disappointingly  snowless

At the start of Pitch One

Looking good higher up.

As we got higher we reached the little snow that still lay and what was left was soft and sugary. Still we persevered and eventually when we reached the third level things started to look more wintry. The route starts at about about 800 mtrs and finishes almost at the summit. We arrived at the start and I set off up the first pitch. This was black and provided a stiff opener to the route. Blank rock and precarious foot and axe placements made for some tough going but soon enough I was past the difficulties and up to easier ground where I set up a belay and Frank followed. This set the pattern for the day and the next test came on Pitch 3 which gave some vertical sections and required some committing axe hooks and placements in barely frozen turf. It kept us entertained and time flew by. We opted to keep the pitches short as there were plenty of decent belays to be had and it also meant communication was easier. We entered the cloud and continued in lovely atmospheric conditions. At the start of I think pitch four I checked a sizable rock near my right foot to see if it was loose and it immediately tumbled off and fell  fifteen feet before hitting a rock and bounced out and flew through the air for a couple of hundred feet before landing in the gully and bursting spectacularly with a loud bang and spraying the ground lower down with smaller stones like shrapnel.Sobering.

Heading up Pitch 3

A true Scot.

Some quality climbing

Add caption

Definitely having a good time

Nice conditions

We were enjoying ourselves immensely by now and each pitch got better as we rose higher. In the occasional clearing I could see the icy summit cross getting nearer and nearer. Eventually we arrived at the crux of the route. This is a wide corner just above the belay  that give two exit possibilities. Both are tough and its this section that gives the route a HS summer grading. From the belay it is possible to go straight up the vertical wall for about eight meters before you reach easier ground or take the right hand side (which I did) where a shorter but no less committing option presents itself. A couple of easy moves and then a slightly overhanging shift to the right and then pulling on hopefully bomber axe placements up and over and then followed by a short vertical couple of steps before the exit. Short as I said but I was pleased to be over it and we were left with easy ground to the top of the route on which we moved together. We enjoyed a bite of late lunch and descended the Heavenly Gates. It was amazing to see how much of the ice had disappeared  by the time we had reached lower ground. The thaw was doing its worse. Still we didn't care and we were really pleased with our day out. It is rare to get any winter climbing done in these parts and we were delighted to have experienced a proper climb so late in the year. Who knows what the next few weeks will bring.

After the tricky section of the crux

Up and over.