The Coomloughra Horseshoe..Winter Perfection

On Tuesday I went back to Kerry with my old friend Connie Looney for a long overdue outing together. It had been years since we were last out and this meeting was a sudden last minute arrangement (as Connie is busy with cows calving etc just now) but we decided to meet in Rathmore early doors and take it from there. This winter has been a series of "almosts" and "nearlys" with fairly frequent cold snaps that are quickly followed by warm rainy fronts that wash away any chance of good winter climbing. Last night seemed to have been another one of those occasions when some recent snowy cold weather promised a wintry outing but during the early night heavy rain could be heard on the roof as I went to bed. Ah well such is the lot of a winter climber in Ireland. It was therefore a delightful surprise to find that the rain had turned to snow overnight and as I drove back to Kerry the hills were looking wonderful under a decent coating of the white stuff.

The north face of Caher

Towards Coumasaharn

Mullaghanattin and beyond

Connie..three-sticks 😆

Towards Skregmore and Beenkeragh

Connie is a delightful warm character and we immediately left the long gap since our last outing behind and fell easily into chat and banter. We had a lot of catching up to do and the time just flew by as we headed towards The Reeks and our chosen outing for today the Coumloughra Horseshoe. This is one of the finest horseshoe walks in the country, taking in as it does the three highest peaks, Carrauntoohil 1039mtrs, Beenkeragh 1009mtrs and Caher 1001mtrs. It isn't overlong (just about 12 kilometres) but it has a decent amount of climbing (over 1200mtrs) and has some excellent scrambling as you cross the Beenkeragh ridge. It promised to offer a wonderful outing in winter conditions. If the route has a downside it is the unavoidable slog you face immediately from the carpark up the "Hydro Road" which certainly gets the blood pumping. Connie's fitness certainly hasn't diminished and I was struggling to keep up with him as we climbed. There was a fair bit of ice on the roadway which wasn't too bad on the way up but it would have been quite difficult to go down. We reached the spectacular viewing point at the end of Lough Eighter where the huge magnificence of the coum is fully revealed and it looked all the better as it was surrounded by the snowy giants. Not that this was the only view to be enjoyed.. Further afield the delights of the Glenbeigh mountains and the mountains that stretch along the Everagh Peninsula looked wonderful as well. The next thing we had to decide was which was to approach the round. We decided to do it in a clockwise direction as this gets the steeper climbing done first and offers the gentlest descent so we set off to the left towards Skregmore.

The ground was now covered by a good dusting of powder snow which made the going a little more ponderous but we were loving it none the less. There was little or no wind about and with the sun hitting the snow it felt almost like an alpine day. The climb to the first top (Cnoc Íochtar 747mtrs) is always surprisingly long and today was no exception but it is a great feeling to arrive on this airy top and soak in the surrounding sights. Another delight of winter walking in Ireland is the colour that is still to be seen in the surrounding valleys. From here we could see blue seas rolling onto long beaches, green fields, plus the russets and golds on the lower boggy slopes. It all added to the spectacle and the enjoyment of the day. As we crossed next couple of tops (Skregmore 848mtrs and Stumpa barr na hAbhann 851mtrs) the wind arrived and suddenly it felt a lot more like a proper winter outing. Snow covered rocky ground slowed progress and when we reached the slopes of Beenkeragh the wind had scoured away much of the snow and rimed up icy ground and rocks had us wondering if crampons would be needed. We decided that it was still just about okay and we climbed the rest of the way to the top. Once at the summit crest we seemed to leave the wind behind again and we enjoyed a bite to eat here before crossing the ridge.

The East Reeks..it doesn't get much better

Up here at over 3000ft things were very wintry indeed and the rocks were well rimed up. As we crossed the ridge some care was needed and finally we decided that crampons were necessary before we tackled the crux of the ridge. The ground on the west side of the ridge was mostly scoured by the wind but the east side was heavily coated with snow and the Coumeenoughter basin was well buried. After putting on the crampons we were careful as we climbed over the narrow rocky crest as a fall from here would be pretty disastrous but we were soon past any difficulties and tackling the final slopes to the summit of Carrauntoohil. We left the crampons on as we headed to Caher and we were glad to have them as some hard nevé was encountered in places. Caher presents a beautiful shark-fin profile that always looks great in the snow. I have never done any winter climbing on it but I'm sure it would offer some wonderful outings. We crossed the west peak and dropped easily down the long spur back towards the lake, glad now that we had done the hard work first. All that was left then was to descend the now ice free Hydro Road and to our car. It had been a wonderful outing and the company was a match. We couldn't have picked a better day or place to get out again. It won't be so long before the next one. Thanks Con.

Attychran Horseshoe on the Galty Mountains

I was lucky enough to have a gander again today on the mountains with Kevin. Some wintry weather had arrived and there was a nice dusting of snow on the Galtees so we met up in Mitchlestown and headed to Kings Yard where we started our route. We were super optimistic and brought crampons and ice axe but it came as no surprise that in the end they were superfluous to requirements. Still it was great to get out and with a forecast of rain arriving before the afternoon we wasted no time in setting off.We opted for the Attychran Horseshoe but instead of the normal anti-clockwise option of heading up Knocknagalty towards Galtymore first we decided to head into the glen between Monabrack and Knocknagalty as far as the footbridge before climbing the steep 300mtr+ pull to the summit of Monabrack. Then we dropped to the boggy saddle before the long slog to the crest of the main Galty Ridge. Even though it was just a dusting on the lower slopes the mountains always look better when covered in their icing and as usual the craic and company was mighty.

The normally mucky peat hags were very navigable today as they were mostly frozen and by the time we were up over 800mtrs on the main ridge things looked very wintry indeed. In the practically still air and under the increasing cloud cover things were delightfully mild despite appearances, so much so that I didn't even put on gloves until we turned towards Galtymore where the breeze picked up a little. The climb to the roof  of the range was nicely frozen and we had a look at the steep ground over the coum of Lough Curra which looked like several short single pitch mixed winter routes might be had. Perhaps a little explore might be called for if we get the opportunity in the future. The cloud actually lifted with us as we headed up Dawson's Table (for a change 😃) and we even enjoyed some views from the nicely rimed up summit. On the descent towards the Black Road we even managed a little bit of glissading before we dropped easily alongside the Attychran river and then followed a forest road back to the car. Coffee and a pastry back in town (I blame Kevin) finished off a very nice outing. I for one am already looking forward to the next one.

Beenkeragh to Carrauntoohil. A Winter Walk

With a dusting of snow above 600mtrs I took the opportunity to head back to the Magillycuddy Reeks today for a blast of fresh winter air. I had nothing too ambitious in mind as it was more of a chance to get some exercise in but I took my crampons and axe back just in case. As I suspected it was just a precaution but it's better to have them and not need them as for the opposite to be the case. I wasn't too sure exactly what to do but as I walked into the Hags Glen I on a whim decided to climb up the slopes to the right of the grassy gully that gives access to the east ridge of Beenkeragh. This makes for a stiff pull initially followed by a traverse of the steep ground above the gully until you reach the easier wide bay above the Hags Tooth. It was nice to thread somewhere different and it had the added bonus of giving some spectacular views of the toothy ridge with Carrauntoohil's north face rising beyond. I hadn't intended it but I ended up climbing the crest of the ridge as it rises towards the summit. While there was a nice dusting of snow there was no ice so it was straightforward enough to make progress. Eventually I reached the top of Ireland's second highest peak but it was a bit chilly to tarry so I headed off down and enjoyed crossing the beautiful and sometimes exposed Beenkeragh Ridge as I headed for Carrauntoohil. A nice scramble to the summit where I took advantage of the shelter and enjoyed a nice lunch and great wintry views. Down the Heavenly Gates and back to my car finished off a very enjoyable day. Hopefully more winter outings can be enjoyed soon.

Nice to get a different perspective

A nice wintry scramble

The views are always a bit more special when a bit of snow is about.

Coumeengeragh to Carrauntoohil

Yesterday I went once again with Frank for a climb on the Kerry Mountains. An early start saw us meet in Killarney at 07.40 and after a brief chat we settled on a visit to Coumeengeragh gully on the northwestern flanks of Beenkeragh. The weather promised to be pretty good so we were looking forward to having a good day. It was quite a surprise to see, once sufficient daylight arrived, that there had been some snowfall down to around the 600mtr mark. I was already regretting bringing my cheap Karrimor boots that are as waterproof as a cheese grater and I was resigned to the fact that chilly feet would be guaranteed in the snow. A swift drive around to Lisliebane followed and after a short wait for a passing shower to depart we set off on the long rising traverse across the boggy ground. At around the 500mtr contour you finally crest the shoulder of Knockbrinnea and enter the deep recess and the gully rises at its end. The scenery is quite spectacular with steep rocky ground on either side but especially on the left where black cliffs guard another steeper short gully which was complete with waterfalls. At the base of this gully there was something orange to be seen and I went across to investigate and to ensure that it wasn't some unfortunate climber after coming to grief. It was with some relief that I saw that it was a storm shelter that had probably blown away in the wind. I gathered it up and brought it with me as I didn't want anyone else to think that there had been an accident and it would have been an eyesore anyway.

Nice day for it

Looking keen

Finally in view

The tricky step at the start

Exiting the gully

The fun starts straight away when you enter the gully when you are faced with a wet slimy step with a big old stone jutting out at the top which forces you to climb the left side. It is only perhaps eight feet but it is tricky and I was glad when it was behind me. This is the crux of the route and we sailed up the remaining 200 or so meters of Grade 1 scrambly ground. It was quite lovely at times when the snow started to fall in silent windless slow motion all around and it made for a nice atmospheric scene at times. Windless it certainly wasn't when we crested onto the ridge below Beenkeragh and it certainly felt like proper winter conditions as we were pelted with horizontal snow and a little hail. It eased as we gained height and soon enough we reached the deserted summit. We didn't delay and dropped down and crossed the ridge towards Carrauntoohil and it wasn't until we were almost at the top before we saw anybody else out. A nice spot of lunch on a windswept summit and we descended back to the Hags Glen via the Heavenly Gates. The weather improved as we got lower and at times it felt positively balmy in the sun down below. It had been a nice outing and gave an unexpected glimmer of winter conditions. Alas back to the rain and wind again this week.

Posing at the Heavenly Gates

Looking into the Hags Glen

Coomloughra Horseshoe. Winter arrives on The Reeks

I set off in the predawn back to Kerry again for what would hopefully be a snowy winter walk on one of the best rounds in the country the Coomloughra Horseshoe.

Quite the sight.

A nice dusting of snow down to about 600mtrs and clear skies promised an early taste of winter so I was really looking forward to getting out in it. Driving towards the start of the route was special also as the views across towards the Sleive Mish mountains glowing pink in the first rays of morning sun was really lovely but I didn't have time to be stopping and taking a photo as I was on a mission.
 Leaving straight from work meant I was nice and early in the almost deserted carpark and it was 08.20 as I set off up the rather unappealing hydro road. This stretch is never a pleasure but the expanding and glorious views were a delight in the crisp morning air. Soon enough I arrived at the huge and spectacular coum that is encompassed by the three highest mountains in the country and what a lovely sight it was this morning with snow covered the steep slopes. Now all I had to do was choose which way I would do the round. I chose to climb Caher first as I prefer to cross the Beenkeragh ridge from Carrauntoohil as this gives nicer scrambling.

Looking across to the mountains of the Dingle peninsula

Towards Coumasaharn

Looking East

The East Reeks. Wonderful clarity with the Galtees and Knockmealdowns very clearly seen

The long slope up to the east top of Caher is fairly gentle but get a little steeper towards the top but this is more than compensated for by the delicious views across the void towards Skregmore and Beenkeragh. Finally I reached the top and on a day such as this the feeling of delight is hard to beat as I stopped and looked around at the beauty that lay in all directions. The ridge that links Caher to Carrauntoohil is pleasantly narrow in places and I enjoyed the airy feel as I stuck to the crest all the way. There was just two others on the summit when I got there and it was a real pleasure to sit and enjoy an early lunch in the sunny almost windless day. I looked down towards the Beenkeragh ridge and found I was really looking forward to the challenge it would offer. I didn't think that crampons or axe would be necessary as the snow was soft powder and there wasn't any ice to be found (I did have them in the bag though, better safe than sorry) and so that proved to be the case. The steep descent to the top of O'Sheas gully was easy in the soft snow and once I reached the ridge I stuck to the crest once again. It is always more challenging when the rocks (and holds) are covered with snow but with a little patience I found everything I needed for safe progress. Once past the initial difficulties (which is the best bit) I stuck to the path and reached the summit of Beenkeragh. A short rest here and I went carefully down the snow covered boulders towards Skregmore and eventually reached the hydro road again. So around 13 kilometers and 1200mtrs of climbing done and I was back to the car in just over five hours. In the car my face was burning from the heater but also I suspect glowing with satisfaction after a smashing winters day. Here's hoping that there will be many more throughout the season.

The playground of a couple of weeks ago..Mullaghanattin

Back to Skregmore