The Wild And Wonderful Dunkerron Mountains

 

I was down visiting Sneem for a week and taking advantage of great weather I decided to do mostly cycling while there. It would have been a shame not to include a mountain day as well so I decided to do a hike on the Dunkerron Mountains that I have been wanting to do for a while. When you are in Sneem there is a beautiful wall of mountains curving around the towns northern hinterland. The peaks stretch from Coomcallee all the way to Finnararagh and offer some of the wildest and roughest walking to be found in Ireland. 

On the ridge to Coomnahorna

I drove in the lovely little lane that goes ever deeper into the valley under the mountains and a little beyond the water treatment plant I found a parking spot. I walked back along the lane until I reached the Lomanagh Loop and I followed this up into the forestry. I was able to follow this road until it eventually reached open ground under the northeast ridge of Coomnahorna. I had a delightful encounter with a deer and her fawn just before exiting the woods and it buoyed me up no end. The going isn't steep and I was able to gain height steadily on the wide boggy spur. The views are as you can imagine sumptuous and the weather was perfectas well. Mostly clear skies, light winds and temperatures just slightly on the chilly side made it a perfect day for hiking. I had been tempted to forego Coomnahorna and head instead for the rocky buttresses of Slievenashaska which promised some scrambling action but I saved it for future days. As I neared the top of Coomnahorna some cloud billowed up the coum and obscured the ground that headed for Slievenashaska. Bugger and dam it I thought that my luck was out. As it happened when I began my descent it cleared and I remained cloud free for the rest of the day.

Rough ground towards Slievenashaska S T

The descent from Coomnahorna is rough but okay and once down I was on a wide expanse of super rocky and rough ground that curved around the large coum, at the bottom of which nestled a lovely lake, before rising to the next top Slievenashaska South Top. This stretch really displays why these mountains are so special. Though the elevations are modest, the ground is super rough and progress is a constant twist and turn and up and down as you avoid the rock strata that always seems to run in the direction you least want. Though it was only about two kilometres to reach Slievenashaska and only one hundred and thirty metres of ascent was shown on the map, the reality was very different. It presented an engaging series of obstacles and route finding options and on a nice sunny day such as this I found myself grinning and loving every step. The final climb to the summit offered some rock buttresses and I enjoyed a little scrambling which only added to the joy of the outing. There are around six little loughlans in the area (more may be hidden) and some didn't reveal themselves until you reached the edge. 

Feeling a little erratic

Curved rock strata

Once on the top ( a  wide plateau like area that held a few small loughs) I headed to the next top Slievenashaska main summit about a kilometre away. The going was easier here but still not easy. Over the rather indistinct top I went and dropped the two hundred metres to the wild and rugged pass alongside the beautiful Coomavarhanniha Lough and faced into the two hundred metre climb to Cnoc Breasail. This climb offered a lovely scramble at the start but it was all to short and there was a long slog to follow. Finally I reached my penultimate top of the hike and I could see across Knocknagantee not too far ahead. I could also see that the ground was a lot easier and I was looking forward to enjoying easier strides. After losing about 50 metres I reached a fence and there was actually a trail alongside it. The next kilometre and a half saw me reach the broad summit of Knocknagantee 676 metres (the highest point of the day) where I enjoyed superb views of the rest of the range and all the way to the wonderful Macgillycuddy Reeks. I dropped down to the track that offers an easy descent back to the valley and before too long I was back at my car. It had taken me six hours to cover the twenty one kilometres and there was twelve hundred metres ascent included. I had loved the day and delighted in the wildness of these mountains. Don't let the modest height fool you. These are challenging mountains.

Easy ground finally towards Knocknagantee

A Good Route on the Galtee Mountains

 Sunday July 13th;

 After a week of stellar weather where a fresh breeze was coupled with temperatures in the high twenties I decided to head on Sunday morning to the Galtee Mountains. I was confident that these normally wet and boggy mountains would offer a much drier experience today. Yesterday temperatures had hit the low thirties (a rarity in Ireland), but it promised to be about five degrees cooler today before low pressure and the usual mix of cool Atlantic air and showers too over and we could once again complain about the rain rather than the heat.

Towards the Knockmealdowns from Monabrack

I arrived at Kings Yard before 8am and I was on the move by eight. It certainly was cooler than yesterday and, with a nice breeze on offer, it felt very pleasant as I set off up the sunken track that eventually reached the open mountains. It felt great to be back. I followed the trail into the deep valley towards the spot where a footbridge used to span the river (it was removed by the landowner who was driven to distraction by people bringing their dogs onto the mountains) and once I was across I set off up the steep slope towards Monabrack (630 metres). I should point out that while the river was quite easy to cross today after the very dry weather, it would normally offer a more challenging prospect and a climb to a point much higher up the glen would be needed to find an easier crossing. Anyway, all I had in front of me now was the 300 metre climb to my first summit of the day. Straight away the going is steep and it only gets steeper until after climbing 200 metres things ease back as you near the broad slopes that rise gently to the top. What a wonderful morning to be out. Despite it being cooler than yesterday it was still warm and I made sure to regularly drink some water. The views were a delight. I was immersed in the heart of the mountains now. Galtymor loomed large to my right and Knockaterriff rose across the deep cut to my left and behind me, beyond the Suir Valley, the Knockmealdowns looked wonderful. I was in heaven.

From Temple Hill towards Galtymor

After a brief stop I set off down and headed for the next top of the day, Knockaterriff (691 metres). On the way down I passed through a cloud of flying ants, quite a few of whom managed to get inside the neck of my t-shirt. They weren't happy about it and let me know in the best way they knew how, ouchy. Anyway once down in the remote glen under Knockaterriff I took a direct line up through the rocky outcrops towards the top. This was steep but it enabled height to be gained quickly and before too long I was up over 650 metres and walking along the broad crest to the top. What a morning it was. Cruising along in shorts and T-shirt, a nice breeze keeping it pleasantly cool and conditions underfoot wonderfully dry. I also had the whole area to myself and I didn't see another soul until I neared the summit of Galtymor later on.

I had been debating with myself whether I would include Temple Hill (783mtrs) in my day as it is a bit of an outlier and requires an out and back trek to include it. Of course, when up on Knockaterriff it looked too good to leave out and I headed for it. Easily down to the wide boggy saddle that was simple to cross today in the super dry conditions, before climbing the 180 metres to the summit. I always get a bit nostalgic when here, as this was my first mountain hike more than quarter of a century ago. Back then I was in the wind and rain and totally bereft of views, but I had still loved it. Today the world lay at my feet and I lingered to soak it in. I returned to the saddle again before a gentle rising traverse saw me reach the climb to Lyracappul (825mtrs). I was starting to feel a bit tired by now but I consoled myself that once up on top, I would have nearly all the climbing done for the day. To be fair it isn't too bad and soon enough I was on one of my favourite spots in the range. The views to the north are spectacular as the ground drops steeply for 2000 feet to the green plains below. There were lots of wasps buzzing about the summit so I didn't stop and continued for several hundred metres and stopped for a bite to eat.

The only place where I saw any other people all day..Galtymor

It it easy walking along the gently undulating ridge until I reached the col above Lough Curra. Now the final climb of the day looms and I set off towards Galtymor. Once again it isn't too bad and before long I was on the top of Dawsons Table enjoying the wonderful views. There were a few others milling about and as I preferred the solitude I didn't stop and began my descent straight away. I headed directly south towards the place where three streams meet. It is a fairly steep drop and 500 metres height is lost but eventually I reached the stream. I found a nice little pool and wasted no time in shedding everything before immersing myself and enjoying the cool water. Reinvigorated, I enjoyed the remaining few kilometres back to  the car. It had been a lovely outing and I had really enjoyed it. It had taken just less than six hours to cover the 19 kilometres with nearly 1500 metres of ascent. I wonder when I will enjoy such dry underfoot conditions again on the Galtees given the amount of rain that has fallen in the intervening few days.

Sorry, no pics of me in it.

Crohane Bennaunmore and the Cappagh Glen

 

Friday June 20th;

I visited the Cappagh Glen several weeks ago in poor weather with Jerry, and discovered, in spite of my fears, that walkers were still welcome, I was delighted to return today in glorious sunshine for a more extended visit. I planned to do an old favourite of mine by climbing Crohane and including a climb of Bennaunmore before exiting through the rugged Cappagh Glen.

Leaving the car with Crohane ahead

A short but magical time in the wood

The forecast was for it to be a hot one with temps up to the high twenties. I was a little disappointed to see some cloud and a stiff breeze when I left the car. Still it was glorious. After a few hundred metres through the sheep paddocks I exited to the left and headed into the woods and made my way through the steep rocky bluffs and bracken until I reached the lower slopes of Crohane. Now a steady pull up through the boggy hillside eventually saw me reach the shoulder of the north spur. Now as well as the delicious views of the nearby mountains that stretched away to the west I was treated to a wonderful view of The Paps and more as the high ground stretched to the east. A stiff 100 metres pull saw me reach the summit shoulder and a final 50 metres and I reached the elegant top. I always enjoy this airy spot. The views in all directions are a delight and usually you will have the place all to yourself. The ground is a little unusual in that the lower you go the steeper and more rugged it gets. After a brief rest and pause to enjoy my surroundings I descended to the south and headed for the southwest top.

Looking towards Mangerton

On the shoulder looking towards The Paps

Starting the climb and the views to Bennaunmore and the entrance to the Cappagh Glen are great

After an initial steepish descent the going is easier as you swing around on the broad boggy ridge. It can be very wet at times but today, after the sunny few days, the ground was nice and dry. I soon reached the southwest top and I enjoyed a bite to eat before I continued on the steep descent to the notch between Crohane and Bennaunmore. Care is needed in places on the descent. Steep heathery slopes between rocky outcrops twist and wind their way down. It is always a little bit of a relief to reach the bottom. Mind you, the relief is short lived as now a steep 200 metre climb is required to reach the top of Bennaunmore. The heather on this slope is longer than I remembered and it was tough going initially pulling and wading up through it. Once I reached rocky scree patches things improved and before too long I was approaching the top. After the top I turned and made my way down the rough ground to reach the back of the Cappagh Glen. This wonderful spot , with its petrified ancient oak woods, rivers and cascades is a joy to visit. It draws the eye as you make your way down and before too long I reached the level shady floor of the glen. It was a much tamer prospect today than a few weeks before. Then there were waterfalls everywhere and the streams and river were raging torrents. Today things were very serene and the river was but a shadow of its former self. It was still wonderful to be there and I delighted in my walk through this wild and wonderful place. Before too long I was exiting the glen and I reached the farmland again. It hadn't been a bit outing, just 3 hours 30 minutes to cover the 10 kilometres and 800 metres ascent. After a quick change of clothes, I was away. It was such a delight to revisit one of my favourite places.

Looking up to the top of Bennaunmore

Lough Nabrooda

In the ferny glen

HAG'S TOOTH RIDGE HOWLING RIDGE CARRAUNTOOHIL AND BEENKERAGH

Friday May 16th;

 We have been enjoying a wonderful spell of weather recently and today I decided to venture back to the Reeks and enjoy some of the best scrambling and climbing that the country has to offer. I actually cannot remember if I climbed Howling Ridge last year and I know that it is seven or eight years since I did the Hag's Tooth Ridge so I decided to do both today.

To say it was a stunning morning wouldn't do it justice. Warm, blue sky and just a hint of a breeze promised warm rock and an ideal hiking day. It was just 10am when I left the car and it was already warm. I was feeling good and looking forward to the outing .Entering the Hag's Glen is always a joy and with unrestricted views it was especially nice. I turned right and crossed the normally wet (but now crispy dry) ground and headed towards Coumeenoughter. When I crossed the almost dry stream I turned right and enjoyed some great climbing on the rocky outcrops that presented themselves as you head to the Tooth. These steps vary from five to ten metres and you can test yourself and make things as hard or easy as you like. I made enjoyable progress and before too long I reached the point where the rock becomes narrow and more consistent as it soars to the tiny top. It was a joy to climb. I stuck pretty faithfully to the crest except for one overhang which I passed on the left. When I reached a hole in the rock I climbed above it and continued up to the summit. To say I had enjoyed the route would be an understatement and it won't be so  long before I repeat it this time. A steep drop from the airy top and I descended steeply towards the first level from the notch just just beyond the Tooth. This isn't too bad and once a little care is taken it offers a swift way to access the first level. 

Always a joy.

Looking down some of the rock steps

Superb sustained quality scrambling

Once down I wasted no time in heading for the Heavenly Gates and Howling. I was still feeling strong and once I reached the Gates I wasted no time in turning and starting up the route. Careful and steady was the motto and I must say it was a joy to climb. The rock was warm and sticky and I stuck to the true route and enjoyed quality climbing all the way. Once I passed The Finger the nature of the route changes. A sharp slab is negotiated until a sharp crest is reached and a series of pinnacles bar the way. Care is now required as there is some loose rock in these but once you avoid these there is some of the best climbing of the route to be enjoyed. All too soon the last of the difficulties is passed and the steep slog to the summit is endured. Well perhaps that is too harsh a word as today, with such gorgeous weather and views to be enjoyed, there was pleasure to be enjoyed all the way. A good  feed on the summit sustained me for the remainder of the outing. I dropped to the top of O'Sheas Gully and crossed the Beenkeragh Ridge. An initial narrow and spectacular crest provided some excitement but it ends all too soon. The remainder of the ridge provides an easy but still spectacular passage until the final 100 metre climb to Beenkeragh reminds you of all the climbing you have done. I had the spectacular summit all to myself and I relaxed for a little while and soaked in my surroundings, both near and far. The descent over Knockbrinnea went well and finally I crossed the dry expanse of bog that led back to the car. It had taken four and three quarters hours to complete the route and I had enjoyed every minute. Ten kilometres covered and twelve hundred metres climbing made it a worthy outing. 

Looking up at the pinnacles

Looking down towards The Finger

Two Days in Cloghane. Running An t'Sais and Hiking Brandon via The Faha Ridge

 

Thursday April 3rd;

I love spring time. It is my favourite time of year and generally my spirit surges with the new growth and life. Add in the fact that I was heading to Cloghane near Mount Brandon with the promise of stunning weather and yes, I was excited.

The approach to Cloghane is always a joy. If some of the finest mountain scenery in the country isn't enough to get the pulse going then add into the mix beautiful beaches and a blue ocean and it is easy to understand my joy. My plan for the couple of days was to either run or hike these mountains (or both) and to do a spot on beach fishing as well. As I neared the village I decided that a run from the village to Brandon Head and An t'Sais would be just the job. I parked at the church and once changed I started my run. I was immediately enjoying myself. Warm spring sunshine bathed everywhere and everywhere looked amazing. The initial kilometres are along the road but this time of year it is quiet and the few cars I met weren't a problem. I then turned off the "main road" and joined a quiet lane that led to the beach near Brandon pier. A quick pause for a photo and I began the gradual climb to Brandon Point. I took my time and enjoyed the experience rather than trying to set a good pace.

The beach near Brandon Pier

The view to the main ridge. Brandon in centre----Brandon Peak on left

Another pause at the point to catch my breath and enjoy the view and I left the road behind and headed on an amazing trail to An t'Sais. The first kilometre is steadily uphill and I was quite pleased that I managed to stay running. You also leave the coast behind and head more inland. The ever improving views of the spectacular main ridge of the Brandon massif are truly inspiring. I was even toying with the idea of climbing up there today. After a hundred metres are gained a delightful downhill section follows where most of the gains are lost. This section can be quite boggy but today it was springy and dry and a joy to gambol down. Alas after the downhill comes a steeper uphill section and this I had to walk most of. It doesn't last long however and soon I was trotting along all the way to the edge of An t'Sais. This is another amazing viewpoint. This giant sunken coum offers a semi circular scoop that drops precipitously to the ocean some four hundred meters below. Throw in the glorious mountain scenery and weather and it simply takes the breath away. Another good reason to pause for a while.

Over 1000ft below---no easy way down or up---The Trap

The trail continues easily around the rim of the coum before turning and after a short downhill section it joins a track that eventually leads to a roadway. I decided to forego the summit ridge and save it for tomorrow. Once on the track I enjoyed watching a few sheepdogs gathering some sheep. Unfortunately they then proceeded to walk them along the track with their master and my running was delayed for a bit. I managed to get past them on a looping section and I once again gamboled along downhill. Once I reached the road I knew I had the bulk of the run done. Once past Teer I re-traced my route back to the village. I was tired but delighted with my effort. Twenty kilometres and 575mtrs ascent is definitely a good outing in my book. I checked into the nearby hostel and after relaxing for a bit I headed to Fermoyle and spent an hour digging bait before enjoying a nice few hours on the beach.

Just six kilometres left

Friday April 4th;

Two days is really too short a time to spend in this wonderful place but it was all I had and I was determined to make the most of it. There had been some rain last night but this morning it was mostly clear skies, although some clouds still clung to the higher tops. After breakfast I set off from the village and headed towards Mount Brandon. I could have driven as far as the car park near the grotto but as I intended going as far as Brandon Peak and doing a horseshoe outing, that would have meant an uphill finish. The plan was to cross the Faha Ridge and then enjoy the splendid summit views from the main ridge. I was feeling quite strong and I set a steady pace up the trail. It was breezier than yesterday and certainly felt chillier and I kept my shell jacket on. Once I eventually reached the airy top of the ridge I paused to soak everything in. Binn Fhaiche sits at 822 metres and standing as it does, removed from the main body of the mountain it offers an outstanding viewpoint. The north face of Brandon with it's cliffs, ridges and lakes looks rugged and wonderful. Add to the mix Masatiompan, An t'Sais, Cloghane bay, Benoskee an Stradbally and much much more and it is hard to know where to look first.

Spectacular ground on the north side of the ridge

Leaving Cloghane looking to Benoskee

What a place to be--in the middle of the ridge

Now comes the wonderful Faha Ridge. It starts off innocuously enough and immediately becomes narrow and engaging. Things were a little slick after the clouds from earlier (now cleared👍) but with a little care safe easy progress is made. Little rocky crests can be taken direct or sometimes a path bypasses them  It is your choice how easy or hard you want it to be. One thing that is certain is that the crux cannot be avoided. Two steep sections require back climbing so as to bypass the final rock buttress of the ridge. These require good concentration and can prove a little awkward. By taking your time and choosing the right holds and moves progress can be safely made. I would say it merits a Grade 2 scramble. Now all the difficulties are behind you and you can enjoy the steep 100 metre climb to gain the main ridge. I was feeling good and this passed quickly enough and soon I was atop and enjoying new vistas. And what a view it is. Below the stunning coastline of the Ballyferriter-Slea Head region in truly glorious and the Blasket Islands are a spectacular sight a few miles offshore. I enjoyed the view for a few moments and then set off on the final easy stretch to the summit. I had it to myself and I relaxed a while and had a chocolate bar and a drink. Next up comes the easy trail to Brandon Peak. It was lovely to amble along and enjoy at leisure those views. The stiff 200 metre pull to the airy summit gets the full attention but after this the crossing to An Gearán is an easy delight before I turned southeast and started the steep descent that loses over 600 metres and eventually reaches the outflow of Lough Avoonane. The coum behind the lough becomes more spectacular as you descend and is a mighty sight by the time you reach the lake. Now I was on a good track as as I had just worn my trail runners again today I broke into an easy trot here. This I maintained for the four remaining kilometres back to the village. I had covered the 17 plus kilometres in 4 hours 50 mins and it had included 1250 metres ascent. A very good outing.

Slea Head--The Three Sisters--Ballydavid Head

The beautiful ridge to Brandon Peak

Looking east towards Tralee

Lough Avoonane

 Boy it was warm down low and I had also gotten my first sunburn of the year. After a change of clothes and a bite of lunch in Castlegregory I went to the nearby beach for a couple of hours fishing. This topped off the day when I got a couple of fine bass. It had been a wonderful action filled couple of days.

A run on Seefin Mountain Glenbeigh and A Hike up Cnoc an Chuillin North Spur

A fleeting visit to Glenbeigh was available a couple of days ago when I hoped to do a spot of fishing at the nearby Rossbeigh beach and hopefully get a hike in on the way home the following day. I was working until 11am so it meant that it would be the afternoon before I could get there. I was keen to get something done before I went fishing so a run was the obvious choice. A quick look online and I settled on a circuit of Seefin mountain which wasn't too long and started right in the middle of the village. I arrived a sunny but chilly Glenbeigh at 14.50 and after a quick change I was off. I followed the Kerry Way along the quiet lane until it became a track that rose towards the aptly named Windy Gap. Now I had a choice to make. I could continue on the track and do a circuit of the mountain or I could cross over the top and drop down the far side and re-join the trail as it returned to the village. I opted for the high way. The views were amazing in all directions. It is always lovely to be somewhere new, and while I was very familiar with all the places I could see, it is great to see them from a new vantage point. Once at the gap I had managed to run shuffle most of the way and had gained over 300 metres in height. A steep pull out of the gap was followed by a couple of kilometres across boggy ground. Did I say that the views were great??. A final pull to the broad top saw me arrive at  the windswept chilly summit where the view down to Rossbeigh and Dingle bay and the Blasket Islands was particularly lovely. A steep drop through long heather was a bit of a pain but eventually easier ground is reached and I followed the excellent running trail back to the village. It had been a delight. Not too long at just over 9 kilometres and 500 metres of ascent but I was happy I had done something. I will definitely do it again.

Heading up to the Windy Gap and what a view towards Coumasaharn

I fished Rossbeigh beach but unfortunately the fish didn't oblige but when done I camped behind the dunes. I rose the following morning to occasional rain and cloudy mountain tops coupled with a chilly breeze. I wasted no time in packing up and I was on the move by eight. A coffee from the local supermarket and my overnight oats saw me ready to head to the Reeks. I parked at Lisliebane and put on my waterproofs and set off into the Hags Glen. Rain filled the back of the glen and the cloud was down to about 600mtrs so it didn't really look too inviting. The forecast promised that it would clear in the afternoon and I hoped against hope that it might come sooner but I wasn't optimistic. As I walked in I decided that I would prefer to do something other than O'Sheas Gully on Carrauntoohil and opted instead to head towards the north spur of Cnoc an Chuillin.

The ridge climbs the skyline in the centre

I crosses the river at the outlet of Lough Callee and gained height gradually on the slopes above the lake until I reached Coumeenmore, a spectacular coum that nestles between Maolán Buí and Cnoc an Chuillin. I couldn't see very much of the ridge to the top as it disappeared into the cloud not too far above me but from here on the going is steep. A very impressive rock buttress is on the right edge of the ridge and the route climbs up just to the left of it. With little to distract me I just put the head down and pushed on. Unrelenting ground means height is quickly gained and I was quite pleased with how I was progressing. Higher up the ridge becomes pleasantly narrow and allows little sections of nice scrambling. Finally after the scrambling ends I reached the summit slopes and the cairn loomed out of the mist. It was windy and misty so I didn't delay and headed off the top towards Maolán Buí. Alas no views were to be had so I decided to descend the Bone. This allowed for a rapid and easy descent and before too long I re-emerged under the cloud. I followed the Black Stream to lower ground and after crossing over the Gaddagh I followed the track back to the car. It had been a very enjoyable outing despite the lack of views and it was nice to go somewhere a little different. I hadn't seen another soul all morning. I was back in the car 3 hours twenty minutes after starting. 10 kilometres covered and 900 metres ascent. Mind you by the time I finished eating a spot of lunch at the car the sun had emerged and the tops were bathed in sunshine. Thems the breaks.

Carrauntoohil beginning to clear