Sunday July 14th
It can be strange to revisit your home mountains after visiting somewhere like the Alps. After 13 wonderful days hiking in the finest of mountain scenery, I was a little apprehensive that I might go to The Reeks, and find them somehow lessened, or diminished, in my esteem. I needn't have worried. When I went back on Sunday, in a glorious weather day, I was enchanted and excited, even as I drove into Cronins Yard.
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| Starting up towards Cruach Mhór |
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| Always an inspiring sight Carrauntoohil |
The way Cruach Mhór towers over the valley as you drive in, never fails to inspire. It definitely is the best way to approach these mountains. It being such a nice day, I was determined to make the most of it, so I decided to have a go at doing the "Three Ridges". This, as well as offering one of the best hiking experiences in the country, can, I guess, be classed as a mountaineering day, as in the middle of it, you climb Howling Ridge, a classic VDiff route. I parked up at the super busy Cronins Yard. Carrauntoohil has become something of a circus these days. The numbers climbing it on a fine summers day, can now be numbered, I would guess, in the thousands at the weekend. There is a booming industry surrounding the mountain, with guiding companies being kept very busy year round. Cronins Yard has been at the centre of life on this mountains for many decades...first as a place that offered access and sanctuary to the mountain rescue, whenever they went about their vital work, and also, as a place to park and meet old friends. They have been expanding their facilities over the years, until today, wonderful tearooms, toilets, changing facilities, as well as self catering and camping, can all be enjoyed. Parking costs just €2 per car, which is super value, and this is in stark contrast to parking costs in Wales and the Lake District.
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| I was tempted to go for a dip |
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| From the summit across the glen |
After a brief chat with John, I set off towards the Hags Glen. Once I passed the Black Stream, I was able to leave the crowds behind, and I set off up across the boggy slope, towards Cruach Mhór. It was sunny and warm, and soon the sweat was flowing. The climb up to the lake goes on and on, and the energy sapping ground, make it a challenge every time. The relief to finally stop, and enjoy a long drink of cool water from the lake, was the reward, before setting off again, on the steep climb to the summit of the first of seven 3000ft peaks. Now the fun begins. As Tom Hutton once described it, in a magazine article he wrote, ( for a British audience), "this is the best ridge you never heard of", and of course he is right. While the Beenkeragh Ridge gets more attention, as it is part of a route to or from Carrauntoohil, the Cnoc na Péiste Ridge offers a more exciting, narrower, more sustained outing, and if you opt for all the best bits, I would say it is a solid Grade 2 scramble. Warm rock made it a pure joy to cross the ridge, and I made sure to stick faithfully to the crest. Once on the summit of Cnoc na Péiste (988mtrs), it is easy going all the way to Cnoc an Chuillinn (958mtrs), and I was loving every step. I have good hill fitness, and with the walking easy, and the situation so spectacular, it is easy to have a good time. I wasn't completely alone, but the East Reeks were very far from crowded, or even busy.
This all changed of course, when after a quick lunch stop on Cnoc na Toinne, I reached the Zig Zags, which is fast becoming the descent route of choice from Carrauntoohil. As I neared the Devils Ladder the large number of hikers heading up the eroded trail to the summit could be seen. It is not a place for quiet reflection. I headed towards the Heavenly Gates, and I was once again in quietude. I always feel a sense of excitement as I near the base of Howling Ridge. It is set among a series of spectacular ridges, and there is definitely a high mountain feel to the place. As I reached the base, I could see a group higher up that were pitching the route. I hoped they would be easy to get by when I reached them. In my less than practiced state when it comes to climbing, I was feeling a bit of self doubt before I set off up, but I reminded myself to take my time..be sure of each hold, and I would be fine. This I did, and indeed, I was. Soon all that matters is the rock before you, and I was once again engrossed in, and enjoying the climb. I reached the group and climbed up past them. They were being led by two seasoned campaigners from Killarney Mountaineering Club, who I used to climb with in the past. I pushed on through, and all too soon I was up at the pinnacles, and then it was all over. The ensuing 150 metre climb to the summit was tough, but passed soon enough, and I was once again in the hoards, as I stopped on the summit for another bite to eat.
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| The Cnoc na Péiste Ridge |
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| Big crowds out...people lining the track all the way to the top |
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| A group heading up Howling Ridge |
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| The group at "The Finger"..Spectacular place |
After that I set off across the Beenkeragh Ridge, and again I stuck to the crest. The best scrambling is at the start, but it is short lived, and soon I was on the point on the ridge called The Bones. The view back to the north face of Carrauntoohil is great. I was surprised to see two guys heading down very steep ground towards O'Sheas Gully. It seemed that they had decided to take a direct line down towards the gully, shortly after passing Tripod Gully. One fella disturbed some rocks, and these crashed down into O'Sheas gully, not far from where another group were descending. It was a fraught situation. I shouted over at the guys, and after several attempts, I got there attention. I indicated that they should head to their left, and to be fair they complied straight away, and soon found a route to safer ground. My good deed done for the day, I set off for Beenkeragh, and enjoyed the rest of the route. On the descent you cross over the twin topped Knockbrinnea (854 mtrs), where the wonderful view of Carrauntoohil, offers yet more eye candy, before the long descent to the valley. This went smoothly, and before too long, I was back in Cronins Yard, enjoying delicious coffee and apple tart. It had been a wonderful day.
16 Kilometres...1780 metres climbing...6 hours 25 minutes.
Monday July 15th
I had camped overnight in the village of Glenbeigh, and my aim today, was to to the Coumasaharn Horseshoe. The amazing weather of yesterday, with the clear blue skies, was absent, and a warm, muggy, cloudy morning greeted me, when I exited my tent. I drove to near the shore of the spectacularly situated Coumasaharn Lake, and started my hike from there. Starting so far into the glen, limits the range of routes you can do, as to do an extended hike from here, would mean walking a fair old way, on the road, at the end. Today, I decided to keep it simple, and just do a circuit of this lake. Thankfully, all but the highest top was cloud free, so navigation would be simple. Straight away the climbing is steep, as I took a direct line up through the craggy ground of Knocknaman. This got the blood pumping, and I even managed to pick out a few nice scrambly bits on the way. After 400 steep metres, the gradient eases right back, and easy walking follows as you head towards Meenteog. The broad spur offers fine views across the huge and complex coum towards Drung hill. The Reeks were shrouded in cloud, and distant views were hazy at best.
After Meenteog, the route follows the ridge, as it swings west towards Coomacarrea, which at 772 metres, is the highest in the area. The views down to the lake, and the convoluted mix, of steep cliffs and gullies, is wonderful. I must venture in as far as the back of the lake sometime, to get a view of all this from below. The 170 metre pull to the high point, is really the end of the climbing, and easy walking follows, as you basically follow the rim of coum, until you can cross the narrow ridge to Teeromoyle Tooth, after which, a super easy descent of the northwest spur, sees you reach a farm road. Follow this, until you pass above the first few houses, and when you reach an old farm shed, turn right onto the road, and then easily back to the car. After the rigours of yesterday, today was a much easier outing, and that was no harm. Less than 12 kilometres...710 metres of climbing, in a leisurely 3 hours 30 minutes.
It is a lovely place, and is definitely worth the effort to get to. Wild coums, in which nestle sparkling lakes, all surrounded by wide boggy ridges, and views, from the nearby sea, to the mighty Reeks. Whats not to like?. To finish off the outing, I went for a dip in the sea at Rossbeigh beach. It was the first time this year, and I was bracing myself for a frigid experience, but I was delighted to find, the water was not too bad at all. Dunking myself in the breakers was thrilling, and I was loving it. Now, that I know the water is good, I hope to combine more mountain days with a dip in the sea..Perfec
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