Once again, taking advantage of my long weekend off work, I headed to one of my all time favourite places...Mayo.
Sunday January 27th;
Rather than just do hillwalking on this trip I decided to start off with a run..and what a run. After perusing the maps I settled on a run along the shores of Killary Harbour. The decision to "just" go for a run today meant that I could enjoy a relaxing morning at home before setting off on the long drive to the west. Despite leaving at 10.30 it was still almost 13.45 when I finally parked the car just over a kilometre along the road that heads towards Lough Fee and Rinvyle. It had been a very nice weather morning all the way up until I passed beyond Oughterard. Then cloud settled on the mountain tops and a light rain began. I could see that it was falling as snow higher up, so it promised to be a bracing outing. I got changed and set off on my run in less than ideal conditions.
One of the advantages( or disadvantages) of starting where I did was that it was uphill for the first kilometre, but at least I would be spared this at the finish. The road is quiet, and the scenery wild and wonderful. I was immediately enthralled. Nice and gently does it, and soon I was on the main road (only for a few hundred metres) before I then turned onto the little road that winds its way towards the shores of Killary Harbour. To say this is wonderful is to do it a disservice. It is easy running and the views are stunning. Across the water the bulk of Mweelrea rose into the mist and looked impressive and beautiful. Below was a little wooded glen that reached down to the waters edge. Ahead, a long winding track, that stretched for another seven kilometres along the waters edge, was a tantalizing prospect.
For the next couple of kilometres the going is on a tarred surface, but then it becomes a rough farm/green road, before eventually it turns into a stony rocky trail. Some tricky footwork is required along here, as the chances are, you will be distracted by the views. Eventually the trail ends at a little pier and harbour, and here you rejoin a tarred lane that runs around the little bay before heading inland. A substantial steep hill awaits, and it was tough to just maintain a shuffle as I climbed the 90 metres. I had decided to head to the gorgeous beach at Glassilaun, where I had swam many times in the past, and this would add about three miles to the run. After the hill, came the reward, as I trundled downhill until I neared the shore. It was lovely to revisit this magic spot, but I must confess that I was beginning to feel fatigued and I still had a long way to go to get back to the car. Out and back to the beach, and then I shortly thereafter, reached the "main " road. Easy running follows as you first run alongside Lough Muck, beyond which, the Bencoonas rise, and then you reach the shores of Lough Fee. The end was now in sight, and I wasn't sorry. The next three kilometres were tough but I got there and once I had changed and warmed up, I was delighted with my outing. Just shy of thirteen miles of invigorating scenery and weather, was a delight, and I was very pleased with the achievement ,and my choice to go for a run.
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Roughly the start and first few kilometres |
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Second section.. |
Despite only being a few kilometres as the crow flies to the Delphi Resort, it was nearly a twenty kilometre drive to get there. I was fairly spent after the efforts of the day, and as I had booked into the newly opened Wild Atlantic Hostel for a couple of nights, I was looking forward to settling in and having a shower and a bite to eat. After checking in I discovered that the hostel was all locked up. I returned to reception and they decided to put me up (at no extra charge), in one of the hotel bedrooms instead. I wasn't overjoyed as it meant I would have to buy all my food instead of cooking the meat etc I had brought with me. Still the room was nice and the view from the capacious balcony was stunning. A soak in the bath went a long way to restoring me, and the rather superb fish and chip dinner was a lovely end to the day. A super quiet, peaceful night followed.
Monday January 28th;
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Views from the room balcony |
Today was forecast to be a cold day with showers of snow possible. I certainly dawned chilly, but mostly clear, and it was lovely to exit onto the balcony and soak up the view. With the belly bustin after an excellent breakfast I put on my outdoor gear and left the hotel. That is the beauty of staying here as you can literally start several hill walks direct from the hotel. The route of choice today was to climb Mweelrea and do a circuit around to Ben Lugmore and return to the hotel. This is one of the finest outings to be had anywhere in the country and I was really looking forward to it. The last time I had done this route I included the nearby top of Teevnabinnea, which although it doesn't quite reach 400 metres in height it is a rough tough pull up over very wet ground to it's long summit ridge so I left it for today. Instead I aimed to head to the col under Mweelrea's south east spur. There are a couple of forest roads that stretch into the long glen and needless to say I picked the one that ended at a dead end about two thirds through the woods. I then "enjoyed" 20 minutes of twist and turn in ditch and bog as I struggled through the trees until I made for the light and emerged onto the track I could and should have taken. It was relatively easy to then reach the bleak pass where Killary Harbour (and more) came once again into view.
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Final climb to Mweelrea |
Next up came the 300 metre plus climb to climb to the summit of Mweelrea SE Top at just under 500 metres. As I gained height the views got more expansive. A near 100 metre drop follows before another near 400 metre climb brings you to Mweelrea summit (814 mtrs). Up here the wind was strong and winter held a firm grip. The spectacular drops had come into view as the cloud continued to lift. I was treated to fleeting summit views but it cleared completely as I set off towards the broad pass under Ben Bury. Here 200 metres below the summit there was no snow but the wind was very strong and I didn't delay before heading up the gentle but blessedly warming climb to the broad stony plateau like summit of Ben Bury (795mtrs). The views to the north and west were lovely and ranged from Clare Island across to Croagh Patrick and to the to the east the Sheefry Hills and Ben Creggan rose above Doo Lough. An easy stroll to the shallow col before setting off over the three tops of Ben Lugmore (803 mtrs) which form the rim of the massive and impressive coum that frames the landscape above Doo Lough. Airy in places and with amazing vistas along the entire length, it was with a little disappointment I reached the east top and started my descent. Normally I continue along the main ridge and drop to the exit of Doo Lough but today I continued easily along the southeast spur and near its end I dropped left towards the river in the valley floor. I followed the river out and across the boggy valley until I could head towards the hotel and I crossed the main river via a steel beam. A short stroll later I was back in my room and filling the bath. Just five hours to cover the 15 or so kilometres and 1200 metres of climbing..
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Summit arrives |
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To infinity and beyond |
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Before starting up Ben Bury |
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Towards Croagh Patrick |
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Wonderful views into the Inagh Valley |
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Along the coum towards Ben Creggan |
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Down along the spur on the right and back to the hotel near the forestry..tomorrows walk on the top left |
As a lovely finish to the day, when I went for a short stroll up the road from the hotel a little later I was delighted to see an eagle flying high in front of Ben Gorm and I watched it all the way until in landed about half way up Ben Creggan.
Tuesday January 29th;
It had rained quite heavily through the night but it was nice and clear, well a bit better, when I emerged this morning. The rain had fallen as snow higher up and things promised to be quite wintry on top, especially when the stiff wind was added into the mix. I was driving home today so I opted for a short outing and a circuit of Ben Creggan and Ben Gorm was the route I picked. Again I was able to walk directly from the hotel to the start of the route. Just a short walk up the road and I was able to enter the open mountainside. Now there followed a long steep 650 metre pull to the summit. The rain shower before I started had passed but more were likely and probably before too long. As I gained height the wind increased in strength and snow covered the ground. It was dry initially but I could see some weather coming from the northwest and it duly arrived shortly before I reached the 693 metre summit. I was engulfed by cloud and when you couple the wind..spindrift and cold I was in no doubt that I was enjoying a full on winter outing. It was exhilarating.
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Snow to lower levels today |
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Straight up into the mist |
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Doo Lough showing the wind |
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Some weather coming but amazing views and light |
I didn't delay on top and set off for the next top (Ben Creggan South Top 687 mtrs). A 90 metre drop is followed by an 80 metre climb and by now the squall had passed and I emerged into a wonderland. Even though I wasn't much above 2000ft winter had a firm grip all around. Thankfully the strong wind was to my back so it was a pleasure to make progress. Once I was over the south top it was straightforward walking down and up to the broad summit of Ben (Gorm 700mtrs), I had never been on these hills before and I found them a delight. As will come as no surprise, the views were stunning. Over towards the Twelve Bens was particularly beautiful but all around was a delight. Ben Gorm itself has some spectacular ground on its northern flanks. On reaching the summit I turned and made a direct descent towards the hotel. Some care is needed in places as it is fairly steep but it isn't too bad. Soon I was down at easier ground and again it was just a short walk back to the hotel and my car. Less that three hours all in and about 850 metres of climbing didn't make for a too taxing outing but it set me up for the journey home.
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Doesn't really capture the ferocity of Ben Creggan summit |
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Easy walking ahead |
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Ben Gorm |
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Those Bens..wow |
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Above Leenaun |
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Yesterdays outing. |
All told it had been a short but super enjoyable trip in one of my favourite places, It is also such a pleasure to reach somewhere and be able to let the car untouched for a few days. The Delphi Resort is certainly a great place to base yourself and world class walking starts right from the front door. I'm looking forward to returning before too long.