The Healy Pass-Caha Pass Cycle and a hike in Glengarriff.

A couple of days off gave me the green light for a flying visit to Glengarriff. As is usual I managed to pack the car full with everything I might need for camping, hiking, cycling and fishing. 

Monday April 18th;

 

A leisurely start to the day saw me head for Bantry at 11am. The plan for today was simple. Fishing. After digging sufficient lugworm for a few sessions I headed for the steep stony beach near the airstrip. The tides were big right now and I hoped that this might bring some fish to this hit or miss venue. Well, to make a long story short, it didn't. The only thing that paid any attention to the baits were spider crabs. On several occasions the traces came back with the hooks nipped off. Add to that, the strong breeze and lots of weed, it was difficult fishing. In the past I have enjoyed great sport here but most of the time it has been very poor so I think I will give this spot a rest for a while. I packed it in at 18.30 and drove to Glengarriff and booked into the small little campsite a couple of kilometres from the village. It was very quiet and I enjoyed a relaxing peaceful evening. 

 

Tuesday April 19th;

Today promised to be cool but dry and with little in the way of wind. Perfect cycling weather. It was true to its promise and I enjoyed my breakfast on a sunny calm morning. It wasn't going to be confused with warm though, so I donned an extra layer for the ride. What breeze there was, was coming from the north west so I decided to cycle my planned route in a clockwise direction. This would mean I would have the breeze against me as I climbed the Healy Pass but I hoped it would be with me for the final 30 kilometres or so from Kenmare. Right from the start the going is tough as the road climbs for the first few kilometres until it crests after a short very steep climb at about 130 metres. The reward that follows is a joy. Several gently downhill kilometres follow as you head towards Adrigole and the views get better and better. Next comes the climb of one of the most famous road passes in the country the Healy Pass. The six kilometre climb is never too steep and again the scenery is stunning. In the second half of the climb the road has a series of switchbacks that make it resemble an alpine road. A brief rest on top to catch my breath and have a drink of water and I was recovered enough to relax and enjoy the descent. I was glad to have put on an extra layer as it was quite chilly now.

There is no respite from the climbing however, as once you finish the descent in Lauragh, another climb awaits to surmount the Lauragh Pass. This is again not too steep but over 170 metres is gained so it it not to be sniffed at. Once again the views are wonderful and help to distract from the rigours of the climb. Once over the crest another enjoyable descent follows and easy cycling follows all the way to Kenmare. A right turn here and you head for the final challenge of the day..the Caha Pass. The first couple of kilometres is flat and the road is very rough. It is a bone shaker of a section. Some height is gently gained over the next several kilometres until finally after Bonane the real drag begins. Remember when I said I hoped that the breeze would be behind me here?, well it was not to be and as I got higher the breeze only made itself more manifestly into my face. That said the climb is not steep and i was able to make steady progress. My back was giving me my biggest problem and was quite painful by the time I finally reached the tunnel that marks the highest point of the day. Another rest here and a drink and it was simply a joy to coast the remainder of the route all the way down to Glengarriff. The final couple of kilometres to the campsite passed easily and I arrived back to my tent very satisfied and pleased with the outing. A total of 79 kilometres in 3 hours 10 minutes with 1050 metres ascent thrown in.

The less said about the fishing that afternoon the better, except that I did get sun burnt.  

Wednesday April 20th;

It was another fine weather day and once again it promised to stay good for the day. I decided that a hillwalk would be just the ticket to end this little trip before I headed home to begin another round of nights. One of my favourite things is being able to leave the car where it is and starting a hike without having to drive to the start. Today was like that as I was able to leave the campsite on foot and after a few metres on the road I turned onto a quiet little lane that morphed into a farm track that entered a beautiful open valley that led towards Sugarloaf. The first three kilometres were a delight as easy walking saw me draw ever nearer to the base of the hill. After consulting the map it showed the trail continuing right to the base of the steep climb but things became very different as the trail entered a plantation. It was actually a very pleasant change and  the route became quite enclosed and the world shrunk to the dark undergrowth. The forestry was more extensive that it first appeared and the trail I was following became more difficult to navigate due to fallen trees and encroaching rhododendron bushes. I reckoned I was gone beyond the ridge I wished to climb so I made a break for it up steep ground through the trees until I reached open ground. I had indeed gone too far, so I was faced with a steep climb directly up the side of the mountain. I guess I could have traverses back across the mountain but the way up seemed doable so I set off up. I found myself progressing up a series of mini gullies up the face that provided some scrambling and route finding kept the mind busy. It was pretty straightforward really but I wouldn't have enjoyed it as much if the day had been wet. The call of a cuckoo in the woods below made me smile and was a sure sign that summer is just around the corner.

 

Like a scene from "The Field"

Straight up the face.

A  wonderful walk in..and out

After 300 metres of steep ground I reached the crest of the mountain and now I was able to enjoy a glorious 360 degree panorama of this most special of areas. The breeze was a little chilly but an extra layer allowed me to relax and soak in my surroundings for a while. I looked at the possible continuance options of the hike and it looked very possible to continue all the way around Barley lake and make my way back to Glengarriff through the beautiful woods of the national park. I set off and after a drop of just 80 metres another climb of 80 metres followed before I came across the way markers of the Beara Way. On a whim I decided to turn and follow these and return that way. It is a pleasant enough way down, sometimes mucky and boggy and sometimes on a good track. When I reached the point where the trail descends in a more direct manner to the valley floor I once again changed course and decided to climb the rugged top of Derrynafulla and perhaps descend back to the valley I walked in. It was a steep climb to the top and the descent on the far side was no cakewalk as I had to at times pick my route carefully so as to avoid the steep slabs of rock that barred the way. It kept me entertained until finally I was past the worst of them, then the ground underfoot became very pitted, wet and rough. The next kilometre was something of a battle until I finally emerged onto a surprisingly dry, grass paddock, right in the middle of all the boggy rough land all around. A little was beyond this and I was able to join a track that returned me easily back to where it all began. 

It had been an adventurous 17 kilometres over sometimes very rough and steep terrain, but it's fair to say I really enjoyed the whole thing. Just shy of 5 hours in total and just shy of 900 metres of climbing was a fitting end to this little trip. Glengarriff has soooo much to offer.

A Wonderful Couple of Days In Cloghane..Benoskee and Brandon

Saturday April 9th;

 Saturday finally arrived and after 11 days in a row at work I was very glad when a couple of days off, and I could head away. I couldn't make my mind up where to go and I had kinda decided that I would head to The Reeks and Rossbeigh, however as I drove back I decided to head to Cloghane instead and I booked myself into the excellent Brandon Hostel for the night.

It was a beautiful morning and it promised to stay fine all day. Tomorrow was supposed to be windswept and rainy, so I was determined to make the most of today. As is usual the sight of the wonderful mountains in the Brandon area was breathtaking. I formulated a plan as I drove back and decided to do a hike up Benoskee first, check into the hostel in the afternoon, and once I had dug sufficient bait, to fish Fermoyle beach until after 10pm. It promised to be a full day. I parked at the junction for Cloghane and after a three kilometre walk along the road I was able to finally gain access to the beautiful valley on the western flanks of Beenatoor, an outlier of Benoskee itself. A good track enters the valley and in the sunshine everything looked wonderful and the nearby woodland was full of birdsong. I was immediately enchanted. The easy going didn't last for long before I turned and commenced the long, steep near 500 metre pull to the top of Beenator. This certainly got the blood pumping but I was feeling quite strong and I made good progress. The calm of the valley was replaced by a chill breeze as I got higher and this added incentive to keep moving. From the broad boggy top there is a gentle drop of 70 metres before a gentle climb of 90 metres saw me reach the next top Coombane at 610 metres. This offers a great place to relax a while and take in the super vistas on display around you. The Brandon massif looks stunning, jagged and spectacular as it rises from the blue shores of Brandon Bay. The Maherees stretch out into the deep to the north and of course the bulk of Benoskee looms large nearby. Next up came the 300 metre climb to the 820 metres summit.This is not too bad as it isn't too steep and the ground is pretty solid underfoot. The odd patch of snow and ice was to be found in shady nooks and that, coupled with the strong cold breeze, told that winter hadn't fully retreated just yet. I found a sheltered spot at the summit to have my lunch and savoured much more than the food. Up here the views were to be found in a full 360 panorama. Loop Head in Clare speared the ocean way beyond the Maherees in the north. Baurtregaum and Caherconree looked majestic as they buttressed the eastern side of the peninsula. The mountains of the Iveragh Peninsula were neatly arranged over Dingle Bay and I could even make out Mount Hillary away in the distance.

I have seldom enjoyed myself more on the mountains and it wasn't over yet. I now had over 950 metres ascent done, so the bulk of the climbing was done for the day, but there was still a few climbs in the offing as I planned to cross over each top that lay between me and Slievanea. The descent to reach the long boggy area between the hills that overlook dingle Bay and the tops I was doing that looked over Tralee Bay is straightforward. Down here, over 400 metres lower down, it was once again warm in the sunshine and the breeze was light. The recent good weather had dried somewhat the normally drenched ground, and it was easy enough to head towards the first top Beenbo at 477 metres. This offers a new perspective on the valley below and actually has some nice rock ridges if you climb from the valley. An easy drop and another rise saw me reach Slievenagower at 486 metres. The hills here drop spectacularly to the lakes in the valley floors and are proof positive that hills don't have to be super high to be mountains. Time was shoving on and if I wanted to avoid having to rush the remainder of my day I would have to forego Slievanea and descend from the next top, the beautiful Slievenalecka 458 metres. The initial 50 metres of descent from this airy top requires some care as it is quite steep. A fall here would be serious. The difficulties are soon past though, and the remainder of the descent is easy. I dropped to the track at the end of Lough Adoon and this actually led directly to the car. I arrived back after taking 5 hours 10 minutes to cover the nearly 19 kilometres and all in all had climbed over 1300 metres. I was delighted.

A short drive saw me reach Cloghane, where I checked into the hostel and collected the room key. I returned to the lagoon at the back of Fermoyle beach and dug lugworm for over an hour. Once I had sufficient, I drove the kilometre or so to the beach and readied myself for some beach fishing. I wasn't too hopeful given my recent rate of success, but it transpired to be a delightful session with plenty of small bass being caught and one fine specimen landed. The rod tips were hopping into the darkness and I was a happy chappie when I finally called time at nearly 22.30. It had been a simply great day.

Sunday April 10th;

I wasn't expecting this morning to be anything other than wet and windy, so it was actually quite pleasing to find that, while the sun was hidden behind a layer of cloud, there was no rain and it was only the highest tops that were veiled in mist. I decided that I would go for a straight up and down Mount Brandon and that it would be a bonus outing for the trip. I left the car where it was and walked up from the village. The first kilometre follows the Dingle Way and is a delight as it rises from the village through grassy paddocks and alongside a stream before then joining a narrow road that rises to the car park near the grotto. The views are lovely and the elegant triangle of Brandon Peak is the star of the show. I also looked across the bay and admired the peaks I had been on yesterday. The breeze was quite stiff and it promised to be windy on top, but the bulk of the route is fairly sheltered. After the grotto the trail rises fairly gently on the flanks of the spur that rises towards Benagh and the Faha Ridge. I would have liked to do the ridge, but with the wind as it was, it would have been too dangerous. At around the 600 metre contour the trail rounds the shoulder of the mountain and heads into the back of the savage ground below the north face of Mt Brandon. This is always a spectacular place to be and as I walked in I reminisced on the time I walked in here in the fierce winter of 2010, when I needed crampons from just above the car park.

After completing the steep 150 metre climb to surmount the back wall of the coum, all that was left it the easy pull to the summit of Mt Brandon itself. I was now in the mist but fleeting breaks in the fog gave misty views towards the wonderful coastline near Ballyferriter and Slea Head. The wind was buffeting but not too bad so I decided to continue along the ridge as far as Parias Mor and descend towards Teer before crossing back over the spur of Benagh and returning to the main trail once again. It was a lovely addition to the day and allowed me to enjoy the superb views of the huge coum that rests on the north side of the ridge. Some rough ground has to be crossed to treach the crest of the ridge again but thereafter the descent is easy. Today had been a short day but it still gave me a lot of satisfaction and ended the trip nicely. 15 kilometres in 3 hours 40 mins and over 1000 metres climbed...nice

Mangerton Knocknadobar and Coomasaharn

 Last week I headed west for a few days camping, fishing, and hillwalking. Spring has well and truly sprung and the forecast promised blue skies each day. Normally I would have taken my bike as well but it was in for a service so that option was denied to me. 

Wednesday March 23rd;

I set off nice and early Wednesday morning and the weather was as promised. However, as I drove West I could see clouds still clung to the mountain tops. It was a little disappointing but I was still in good spirits as I left the car and headed for Mangerton. Low tide was about 14.00 and as I needed to dig some bait for fishing that evening I needed to be in Caherciveen by then. Since it was now just 9am I reckoned that I had time enough to include the Horses Glen in my hike. It had been a fair old while since I was last there so I was looking forward to rediscovering the area. As well as benign weather, I was also feeling really strong and I really enjoyed the walk across the rough ground before entering the Glen. Once at the shores of Lough Garagary the beauty of the entrance to the glen was revealed. Normally when I come in this way it is to avoid high winds and bad weather, so it was lovely to walk in on mostly dry ground and rock. I was simply loving being there.

The wonderful entrance to the Horses Glen

Steep ground leading the Mangerton North

Looking down from the arret

The easy going ends when you reach the rocky ramp that climbs up into the inner part of the glen. Once above the ramp the glory of cliffs that form the northern face of the glen are fully revealed. It has a wild and remote feel. I turned right and faced into the near 400 metre climb to Mangerton North top. This is steep and unrelenting but it offers great views and allows height to be gained quickly. Some scrambling is also available early on if you wish. Once on the summit crest the wind was actually quite strong and definitely on the cold side of chilly but I was loving it. The cloud was doing it's best to clear and I was able to enjoy views down into the glen and away to the north the fertile lands of north Kerry stretched to the horizon. I wasted no time in heading across the arret and climbed the final pull of the day until I reached the spectacular ground of the summit plateau that rims the edge of both the Horses Glen and the bowl that holds the Devils Punchbowl.A little bit of mist still clung to the plateau but it was atmospheric and wonderful and the going was all now gently down hill. The remainder of the walk passed quickly and I was soon basking in warm sun and glorious views all the way down. I was back at the car just 3 hours 10 minutes after setting off. It had been a stunning start to the day and I was in great spirits as I headed west to Caherciveen. When I arrived there I went as far as the Kimego forest recreation area to check out what it would be like to pitch a tent there that night and I was pleased to find one spot that wasn't too rough where I could get the tent up. With that sorted I went and dug my bait and fished happily into the night.

The Devils Punchbowl

Thursday March 24th;

The forecast for today was excellent so it was somewhat of a disappointment to emerge from the tent to a quite overcast morning. It was however dry and calm and that is acceptable any day. As I was again going to fish during the evening into darkness I had planned on doing a hillwalk once again this morning but there seemed little point if there would be no views. After breakfast I enjoyed a 40 minute walk around the Kimego Loop. At the start there is an old stone built tower that is all that remains of a peat briquette factory from the middle of the 19th century. It was something I had previously known nothing about and it was very interesting to learn about it. The walk was pleasant and passed a little time and afterwards I went to the nearby Cuascrom pier and wet a line for an hour or so. I then went into Caherciveen and got a bit of shopping before deciding to head to one of my favourite hills, Knocknadobar.

The tower from the peat factory

Disappointingly overcast but still a lovely view from the tent

The day had moved on nicely and it was just gone 1pm when I left the car. I had left the boots in the car and decided that today I would give running the pilgrim trail a go. It is a good well marked trail that is never steep and twists and turns it's way up the side of the mountain. I set a gentle pace and managed the first kilometre or so at a jog and for the rest of the way I ran when I could and walked when I had to. I didn't set any records but I was able to enjoy the experience and the views, which had thankfully started to really open up as the sun won the battle with the cloud. It was getting quite warm but I tried to drink enough water from the ladder in my running rucksack. Once on top I turned and ran the easy ground for the kilometre or so to the north top and then I turned and began the descent. I have to say that the views as you trundle down towards Coonanna harbour are simply world class. On a day like today with little breeze and now warm sunshine, a simply stunning vista is laid out before you. Blue sea, cliffs, wild hills and fairly easy ground underfoot make it a delightful descent. I took my time and trundle along and savoured the entire experience. Lower down I descended to the northern (seaward) side of the spur and returned to the road along the spectacular shoreline. It is then a simple matter of jogging back the final couple of kilometres on the pretty lane. I arrived back at the car just 1 hour 43 mins after setting off and I was delighted with my outing.

10 kilometres, 720mtrs ascent in 1hour 43 minutes.

A relaxing evening at Kells Bay followed and that night I camped near Rossbeigh beach.

Nice view while fishing at Kells Bay

Friday March 25th;

This morning the forecast lived up to its promise and I emerged into a blue sky calm day. Today I was going to do a hillwalk around Coomasaharn or the Glenbeigh Horseshoe, a hike I hadn't done in a long time and I was really looking forward to it. I wasn't pushed for time so I enjoyed a nice leisurely morning before packing up and driving the short distance to the end of the lane near Coomasaharn Lake. It was almost 10am when I was starting my hike.

What a beautiful day in a beautiful place..Starting out.

What a stunning morning it was. Not a cloud in the sky, no breeze and warm sunshine coupled with lots of birdsong made it idyllic. I set off back the lane for a couple of hundred metres until I reached a small plantation of forestry and a good track seemed to allow access to the expanse of bog beyond. Alas this didn't quite work out as I hoped and I had to do a bit of searching to find a spot where it was possible  to cross the river without getting wet feet. I should have walked back a few hundred metres more and the lane would have crossed it. Anyway, I managed it and soon I was free of any obstacles and heading up across the gently sloping bog towards Beenreagh (495mtrs) from where I could attain the main ridge. What a morning to be out. Warm sun, skylarks singing and wonderful wild landscapes all around. The final 250mtrs to reach the multi topped crest of Beenreagh is a stiff pull and certainly got the heart pumping but what a view there is to reward the effort. From the Reeks across to the hills above Sneem the array of mountains is stunningly arrayed. Nearby the splay of coums with their cliffs swing round to Drung Hill and of course the sea competes for the eye. This area is proof positive that by the Reeks area you are losing nothing in the way of wonder and majesty.

I dropped easily to the saddle under Macklaun and was now faced with nearly 400 metres of a climb. I wasn't looking forward to it but the ground is firm for the most part and I progressed nicely until before I expected it I reached the broad summit dome. Those views again gave ample excuse for a rest before I turned and headed across the wide expanse of bog towards Meenteog whose summit was 3 kilometres away. With the bulk of the climbing now behind me I relished the remainder of the outing. A series of wide, almost plateau like tops follow, whose northeastern flanks drop dramatically into a spectacular series of coums at the base of which lakes glisten. The largest and most spectacular is Coomasaharn lake, which today was as blue as the sky. Meenteog at 715 metres came first before Coomacarrea at 775 metres and finally (on my round) Teermoyle at 760 metres. I had debated with myself whether to continue my outing as far as Drung Hill but the delightful descent along the spur that bounds the western shores of Coomasaharn Lake proved too tempting so I left Drung Hill for another day. I was delighted to be treated t the sight of a Peregrine Falcon standing on a rock a mere 30 metres from me before it opened its wings and dropped into the deep. The descent went well and before I knew it I was down in the valley and near the car. It felt really warm down here and the sting on my forehead was a reminder that for the next outing I really should remember to bring sunscreen. I arrived back at the car just over 5 hours after setting off and had covered 17 kilometres and climbed over 1100 metres. 

I drove back to Rossbeigh and wasn't surprised to find it was fairly busy with people out enjoying this harbinger of summer day. The sea itself was also nearly flat calm, which isn't the best thing for a storm beach, but I determined to fish that evening anyway. I decided to relax and while away a couple of hours before commencing fishing at around 6pm. By then most of the people had left and it proved to be a beautiful evening as I watched the sun set into the sea. The fishing proved as productive as I feared but I wasn't bothered and was well happy with my day when I retired to my tent that night. When the weather is a glorious as this there are few places to beat west Kerry.