The Wild And Wonderful Dunkerron Mountains

 

I was down visiting Sneem for a week and taking advantage of great weather I decided to do mostly cycling while there. It would have been a shame not to include a mountain day as well so I decided to do a hike on the Dunkerron Mountains that I have been wanting to do for a while. When you are in Sneem there is a beautiful wall of mountains curving around the towns northern hinterland. The peaks stretch from Coomcallee all the way to Finnararagh and offer some of the wildest and roughest walking to be found in Ireland. 

On the ridge to Coomnahorna

I drove in the lovely little lane that goes ever deeper into the valley under the mountains and a little beyond the water treatment plant I found a parking spot. I walked back along the lane until I reached the Lomanagh Loop and I followed this up into the forestry. I was able to follow this road until it eventually reached open ground under the northeast ridge of Coomnahorna. I had a delightful encounter with a deer and her fawn just before exiting the woods and it buoyed me up no end. The going isn't steep and I was able to gain height steadily on the wide boggy spur. The views are as you can imagine sumptuous and the weather was perfectas well. Mostly clear skies, light winds and temperatures just slightly on the chilly side made it a perfect day for hiking. I had been tempted to forego Coomnahorna and head instead for the rocky buttresses of Slievenashaska which promised some scrambling action but I saved it for future days. As I neared the top of Coomnahorna some cloud billowed up the coum and obscured the ground that headed for Slievenashaska. Bugger and dam it I thought that my luck was out. As it happened when I began my descent it cleared and I remained cloud free for the rest of the day.

Rough ground towards Slievenashaska S T

The descent from Coomnahorna is rough but okay and once down I was on a wide expanse of super rocky and rough ground that curved around the large coum, at the bottom of which nestled a lovely lake, before rising to the next top Slievenashaska South Top. This stretch really displays why these mountains are so special. Though the elevations are modest, the ground is super rough and progress is a constant twist and turn and up and down as you avoid the rock strata that always seems to run in the direction you least want. Though it was only about two kilometres to reach Slievenashaska and only one hundred and thirty metres of ascent was shown on the map, the reality was very different. It presented an engaging series of obstacles and route finding options and on a nice sunny day such as this I found myself grinning and loving every step. The final climb to the summit offered some rock buttresses and I enjoyed a little scrambling which only added to the joy of the outing. There are around six little loughlans in the area (more may be hidden) and some didn't reveal themselves until you reached the edge. 

Feeling a little erratic

Curved rock strata

Once on the top ( a  wide plateau like area that held a few small loughs) I headed to the next top Slievenashaska main summit about a kilometre away. The going was easier here but still not easy. Over the rather indistinct top I went and dropped the two hundred metres to the wild and rugged pass alongside the beautiful Coomavarhanniha Lough and faced into the two hundred metre climb to Cnoc Breasail. This climb offered a lovely scramble at the start but it was all to short and there was a long slog to follow. Finally I reached my penultimate top of the hike and I could see across Knocknagantee not too far ahead. I could also see that the ground was a lot easier and I was looking forward to enjoying easier strides. After losing about 50 metres I reached a fence and there was actually a trail alongside it. The next kilometre and a half saw me reach the broad summit of Knocknagantee 676 metres (the highest point of the day) where I enjoyed superb views of the rest of the range and all the way to the wonderful Macgillycuddy Reeks. I dropped down to the track that offers an easy descent back to the valley and before too long I was back at my car. It had taken me six hours to cover the twenty one kilometres and there was twelve hundred metres ascent included. I had loved the day and delighted in the wildness of these mountains. Don't let the modest height fool you. These are challenging mountains.

Easy ground finally towards Knocknagantee

A Good Route on the Galtee Mountains

 Sunday July 13th;

 After a week of stellar weather where a fresh breeze was coupled with temperatures in the high twenties I decided to head on Sunday morning to the Galtee Mountains. I was confident that these normally wet and boggy mountains would offer a much drier experience today. Yesterday temperatures had hit the low thirties (a rarity in Ireland), but it promised to be about five degrees cooler today before low pressure and the usual mix of cool Atlantic air and showers too over and we could once again complain about the rain rather than the heat.

Towards the Knockmealdowns from Monabrack

I arrived at Kings Yard before 8am and I was on the move by eight. It certainly was cooler than yesterday and, with a nice breeze on offer, it felt very pleasant as I set off up the sunken track that eventually reached the open mountains. It felt great to be back. I followed the trail into the deep valley towards the spot where a footbridge used to span the river (it was removed by the landowner who was driven to distraction by people bringing their dogs onto the mountains) and once I was across I set off up the steep slope towards Monabrack (630 metres). I should point out that while the river was quite easy to cross today after the very dry weather, it would normally offer a more challenging prospect and a climb to a point much higher up the glen would be needed to find an easier crossing. Anyway, all I had in front of me now was the 300 metre climb to my first summit of the day. Straight away the going is steep and it only gets steeper until after climbing 200 metres things ease back as you near the broad slopes that rise gently to the top. What a wonderful morning to be out. Despite it being cooler than yesterday it was still warm and I made sure to regularly drink some water. The views were a delight. I was immersed in the heart of the mountains now. Galtymor loomed large to my right and Knockaterriff rose across the deep cut to my left and behind me, beyond the Suir Valley, the Knockmealdowns looked wonderful. I was in heaven.

From Temple Hill towards Galtymor

After a brief stop I set off down and headed for the next top of the day, Knockaterriff (691 metres). On the way down I passed through a cloud of flying ants, quite a few of whom managed to get inside the neck of my t-shirt. They weren't happy about it and let me know in the best way they knew how, ouchy. Anyway once down in the remote glen under Knockaterriff I took a direct line up through the rocky outcrops towards the top. This was steep but it enabled height to be gained quickly and before too long I was up over 650 metres and walking along the broad crest to the top. What a morning it was. Cruising along in shorts and T-shirt, a nice breeze keeping it pleasantly cool and conditions underfoot wonderfully dry. I also had the whole area to myself and I didn't see another soul until I neared the summit of Galtymor later on.

I had been debating with myself whether I would include Temple Hill (783mtrs) in my day as it is a bit of an outlier and requires an out and back trek to include it. Of course, when up on Knockaterriff it looked too good to leave out and I headed for it. Easily down to the wide boggy saddle that was simple to cross today in the super dry conditions, before climbing the 180 metres to the summit. I always get a bit nostalgic when here, as this was my first mountain hike more than quarter of a century ago. Back then I was in the wind and rain and totally bereft of views, but I had still loved it. Today the world lay at my feet and I lingered to soak it in. I returned to the saddle again before a gentle rising traverse saw me reach the climb to Lyracappul (825mtrs). I was starting to feel a bit tired by now but I consoled myself that once up on top, I would have nearly all the climbing done for the day. To be fair it isn't too bad and soon enough I was on one of my favourite spots in the range. The views to the north are spectacular as the ground drops steeply for 2000 feet to the green plains below. There were lots of wasps buzzing about the summit so I didn't stop and continued for several hundred metres and stopped for a bite to eat.

The only place where I saw any other people all day..Galtymor

It it easy walking along the gently undulating ridge until I reached the col above Lough Curra. Now the final climb of the day looms and I set off towards Galtymor. Once again it isn't too bad and before long I was on the top of Dawsons Table enjoying the wonderful views. There were a few others milling about and as I preferred the solitude I didn't stop and began my descent straight away. I headed directly south towards the place where three streams meet. It is a fairly steep drop and 500 metres height is lost but eventually I reached the stream. I found a nice little pool and wasted no time in shedding everything before immersing myself and enjoying the cool water. Reinvigorated, I enjoyed the remaining few kilometres back to  the car. It had been a lovely outing and I had really enjoyed it. It had taken just less than six hours to cover the 19 kilometres with nearly 1500 metres of ascent. I wonder when I will enjoy such dry underfoot conditions again on the Galtees given the amount of rain that has fallen in the intervening few days.

Sorry, no pics of me in it.

Crohane Bennaunmore and the Cappagh Glen

 

Friday June 20th;

I visited the Cappagh Glen several weeks ago in poor weather with Jerry, and discovered, in spite of my fears, that walkers were still welcome, I was delighted to return today in glorious sunshine for a more extended visit. I planned to do an old favourite of mine by climbing Crohane and including a climb of Bennaunmore before exiting through the rugged Cappagh Glen.

Leaving the car with Crohane ahead

A short but magical time in the wood

The forecast was for it to be a hot one with temps up to the high twenties. I was a little disappointed to see some cloud and a stiff breeze when I left the car. Still it was glorious. After a few hundred metres through the sheep paddocks I exited to the left and headed into the woods and made my way through the steep rocky bluffs and bracken until I reached the lower slopes of Crohane. Now a steady pull up through the boggy hillside eventually saw me reach the shoulder of the north spur. Now as well as the delicious views of the nearby mountains that stretched away to the west I was treated to a wonderful view of The Paps and more as the high ground stretched to the east. A stiff 100 metres pull saw me reach the summit shoulder and a final 50 metres and I reached the elegant top. I always enjoy this airy spot. The views in all directions are a delight and usually you will have the place all to yourself. The ground is a little unusual in that the lower you go the steeper and more rugged it gets. After a brief rest and pause to enjoy my surroundings I descended to the south and headed for the southwest top.

Looking towards Mangerton

On the shoulder looking towards The Paps

Starting the climb and the views to Bennaunmore and the entrance to the Cappagh Glen are great

After an initial steepish descent the going is easier as you swing around on the broad boggy ridge. It can be very wet at times but today, after the sunny few days, the ground was nice and dry. I soon reached the southwest top and I enjoyed a bite to eat before I continued on the steep descent to the notch between Crohane and Bennaunmore. Care is needed in places on the descent. Steep heathery slopes between rocky outcrops twist and wind their way down. It is always a little bit of a relief to reach the bottom. Mind you, the relief is short lived as now a steep 200 metre climb is required to reach the top of Bennaunmore. The heather on this slope is longer than I remembered and it was tough going initially pulling and wading up through it. Once I reached rocky scree patches things improved and before too long I was approaching the top. After the top I turned and made my way down the rough ground to reach the back of the Cappagh Glen. This wonderful spot , with its petrified ancient oak woods, rivers and cascades is a joy to visit. It draws the eye as you make your way down and before too long I reached the level shady floor of the glen. It was a much tamer prospect today than a few weeks before. Then there were waterfalls everywhere and the streams and river were raging torrents. Today things were very serene and the river was but a shadow of its former self. It was still wonderful to be there and I delighted in my walk through this wild and wonderful place. Before too long I was exiting the glen and I reached the farmland again. It hadn't been a bit outing, just 3 hours 30 minutes to cover the 10 kilometres and 800 metres ascent. After a quick change of clothes, I was away. It was such a delight to revisit one of my favourite places.

Looking up to the top of Bennaunmore

Lough Nabrooda

In the ferny glen