A RETURN TO THE PYRENEES JUNE 2024

 

Okay, I'm home for a while now so I guess it is time to recount the story of my latest trip before the details become lost in the fog of memory. 

Last year I had a very successful trip when I hiked the GR10 from Cauterets to Hendaye over fourteen days. That had completed the GR for me. I had done it over several trips, from Banuls Sur Mer to Hendaye. Me being the contrarian I am I travelled from east to west instead of the normal west to east. This year I wanted to return to climbing more peaks. In years past I didn't stick slavishly to the GR. Instead I would detour so that I could include a couple of peaks in each trip. On my very first trip I climbed Serra del Roc Negra in a week long trip in December, reaching a very frigid 2700 metres. On my second trip, in more normal summer times, I climbed Canigou, Pic del Gegant and one of my favourites Puig Carlit. On my return a year later I nearly summitted Pic de Rulhe, I did climb Pique d'Estats and Pique Rouge de Bassies. A year later I climbed Mont Valier and Perdiguere and by now I had reached Luchon. My next two trips I stuck to the GR 10 and reached the sea. Now it was time for something different.

June 18th 2024

I was mightily impressed by Cirque de Lescun on my trip last year. I had resigned myself to leaving the high mountains behind before I reached Lescun so it was a delight to see this beautiful collection of 2000 metre plus rugged peaks. This year I had formulated a plan to start my trip in Lescun, hike the HRP through the cirque and head from west to east as far as the Grande Fache where I would hopefully climb my first peak of the trip. I would then continue as far as Gavarnie, climbing Vignemale on the way. Well sometimes things don't go to plan. I arrived in Toulouse train station slightly earlier than I had expected and saw that there was a train heading to Lourdes very shortly and on a whim I took it. I reckoned that I could reach Cauterets early enough to get a hike in and so start my hiking a day early. I knew that there was a fine outdoor sports shop in Lourdes and  I would be able to get gas there. I'm am awful idiot. Once again I was a puddle of indecision and while walking to the store I decided that I would stick to my original plan and head to Lescun after all (it is straightforward to get to Pau from Lourdes). I enjoyed a nice lunch at a bakery across the road from the shop and once it opened after lunch I went in to get my gas. It came as a big shock to discover that they were out of stock, so I now had a new quandary. Should I go to Lescun and hope that they had the right gas canister for my needs ?. If they didn't I would be in trouble, so I decided that heading to Cauterets was the safest bet after all.

So with the decision made, I caught the bus at 15.20 to Cauterets. I walked up through the village to the sports shops and got some gas no problem. After getting a fresh baguette and stowing all my extras in my rucksack I was ready for the off at 16.45. My plan for the first few days was simple. To get to Gavernie. With limited time available today, I aimed to reach Refuge Russell. This is an open, unmanned refuge and would provide a doable target for today. It was warm going on hot as I went up to the church and just behind it I spotted a likely path heading up into the woods above the village. I was hopeful it would reach the GR 10 higher up and to my relief it did. Boy did I feel the weight of the bag. Food for five days, full bivi kit, clothes and axe and crampons, meant it was as heavy a bag as I had carried for a while. I was coping, but only just. Once I reached the GR I had gained about 100 metres but things eased considerably as the trail contoured the slope and headed towards La Raillere. I felt great to be back on the trail. Before long I reached the junction in the trail where I left the GR 10 and followed the trail towards La Fruitiere and the Lutour Valley.

Up above Cauterets

The Lutour Valley

After a while you leave the forest and enter the open pastural valley. This was a delightful section as the trail rose gently into ever more spectacular and wild scenery. Peaks of almost 3000 metres rose on either side and formed an impressive alpine scene at the valleys end. The going was pretty easy but over 200 metres height is gained until finally my route turned left and followed a trail that wound its way up the steep hillside. I can't say I was looking forward to this final section. The refuge was over 400 metres higher and I wondered how I would cope. Thankfully the trail wasn't too steep and eventually the rustic refuge came into view. I was surprised to see several people milling about and a total of seven others were also staying there. It was okay though as there was ample room and they had a welcoming fire going when I entered. The cloud had been building steadily as the evening passed and a couple of minutes after I arrived the heavens opened and a lightning storm boomed into the night. Welcome back to the mountains. 

Starting up towards the refuge

Day 1...11 kilometres...1300 metres ascent in 3 hours 40 minutes.

June 19th 2024

They were saying in the refuge last night that the forecast for the next two days was pretty grim, with lots of rain and lightning. It was therefore a pleasant surprise to exit the hut at 07.50 and find mostly blue skies. I decided to try and make the most of it. For some reason I had it in my head that the pass I had to go over this morning  was just over 2200 metres so I thought it would be a fairly easy proposition. In fact Col de Culaus is up at 2565 metres so there was a climb of nearly 600 metres to reach it. Add to the difficulty, the fact that the final kilometre to the col was up through a boulder field, and it wasn't the pushover I had first thought. There was no discernible path through the boulders, just some cairns in places and in order to proceed you had to twist and turn and clamber up and down. With the heavy bag it was certainly tiring and slow. I was relieved to finally reach the col and I looked forward to easier progress ahead. I was to be sorely disappointed as the next four kilometres was a continuation of the boulder filed theme and even going downhill, it was exhausting. Things weren't helped by the fact that I continued the descent through the ravine du Lac Noir when the trail was higher up on the crest of the ridge. I have seldom struggled as much and I had to stop for frequent rests until finally, when I reached the small Lac d'Anttarrouyes I reached a proper trail.

Leaving the refuge. Lovely morning.

Not easy to cross.

After the col and the boulders continue on and on and

It had taken me two hours to reach the col and almost two and a half hours to cover the four kilometres to the lake. I was pretty whacked and I just continued on for a further kilometre before I decided to stop for lunch. Oh what a relief to sit awhile and relax. I was pooped but it was still too early to stop for the day. I was just above the small Lac de Cestrede which lay in a large mostly flat area which offered the potential for some great bivy spots. It was a beautiful area. The lake was fed by a river that descended from a beautiful cirque, backed by rocky giants that almost reached the magical 3000 metre level. Even though it was so early I was tempted to remain here. Tomorrow wouldn't be a big day as it wasn't that far to Gavarnie but the thought of lounging around for five or six hours before I could pitch my tent finally decided me and I set off once again on the trail. The trail contours around the steep hillside for a while before losing a few hundred metres as it heads down to Granges de Bué. Here I once again joined the GR 10 as it rose up through the woods to reach Crete de Pouey Boucou at about 1900 metres. I continued on for about another two kilometres when I spotted a possible spot for my tent about 100 metres below the trail. I didn't hesitate and headed for it. It proved to be ideal. Level and grassy and a water source only about 150 metres away. As the cloud had filled the valley a little earlier I was enveloped in the mist all evening. I spent most of the time lying in my bed trying to recover. It remained dry until gone 10pm but then the rain arrived with a vengeance. It was accompanied by lightning and it basically rained and stormed all night ( at least it was whenever I was awake).

Lots of boulders still to negotiate

Cloud rising from the valley. Eventually won the battle.

Oule de Cestrede

It had taken me 8 hours to cover just 17 kilometres and 900 metres of ascent. 

June 20th 2024

I guess my experience of so much thunder and lightning last year made me a lot more chilled this year. I won't say I was totally relaxed but I wasn't huddling in my tent in fear either. I relaxed. There was no rush and I was warm and dry in my sleeping bag as I listened to the rain and the roaring rumbles as cell after cell passed by. Eventually at around 10am the rain stopped and I wasted no time in getting out and packing everything up while I could stay dry. It is always better to de-camp in the dry if you can. The tent was soaking of course but everything else was nice and dry in the bag as I set off. I was still in the cloud so there was nothing in the way of a view to distract me as I followed the trail easily towards Gavarnie. The rain returned a few minutes after setting off but I was fully suited and booted so I didn't mind. The going was easy. Almost all downhill and on a good trail. After an hour and a half I came to split in the trail. I could opt to reach Gavarnie via Holle or take a more direct route and drop to the valley floor. I chose the more direct way. The trail went down through the woods until eventually I reached the valley floor. The route followed a trail alongside the river but, given that it was very swollen and thunderous, I wasn't sure staying near it was a good idea. I chose instead to simply walk the road up into the village. When I arrived in the village there was a sports store open and I enquired if there was a gite in the village. I was delighted to discover that there was one just 100 metres away and I headed straight for it.

 Gite Le Gypaéte was a nice rustic stone building nestling between two lanes. As it was just 1pm I wasn't sure what to expect and I must say it didn't look too promising as I approached. There was no light to be seen and to be frank, it looked like it was closed. It was a relief to find that the front door was unlocked. The hallway beyond was in darkness but I found a light switch and walked into the dimly lit main room. This big room had several big tables, a small office area and a large sofa, beyond which was a large wood burner which was lit and giving off a warming welcoming glow. There was no sign of anyone about so I dropped my bag and sat down to wait. I relaxed for a bit and rummaged around in the bag for my torch and maps. Suddenly a man, who had been asleep on the sofa sat up and fixed me with a glare. Once I got over my fright I said hello and asked if I could stay. His reply was less than welcoming and I guess I was lucky not to have been able to understand most of it but I got the gist. He lay back down and I sat back down and after another couple of minutes he rose and beckoned for me to follow. He let me into a room upstairs and it seemed I was set sorted. In the afternoon, once I was sure my man was finished his siesta I booked myself in for two nights. Later on I was joined by a couple, one from Chile and the other half Finnish and French who lived in Madrid. There was a total of six others in the gite that night and I opted for half board the first night. The dinner was really quite good. It is a place I would highly recommend.

June 21st 2024

It had rained yesterday up until 9pm. It was a relief to look out this morning and see a sunny blue sky morning. I was quite excited about today. I had been reading the HRP guide book and one of the tops that it recommends climbing in Le Taillon which at 3144 metres is the westernmost major peak of the stunning Cirque de Gavarnie. There are a couple of routes to take that reach the Refuge de Sarradets from where you can climb the peak via the spectacular Breche de Roland. I decided to climb up by the route that enters the cirque and climbs steeply to the refuge. My oh my what a stunning sight the cirque made as I left the village and headed in the track that took me ever deeper into one of the great alpine sights of Europe. A fresh dusting of snow had fallen to about the 2000 metre level and it only made things look even better. The river was still quite swollen from all the rain but it had lost the stain it carried last evening and was once again clear. I was feeling strong this morning. The combination of an easy day yesterday and a light bag made it a pleasure to be out. Once I passed the hotel that sits spectacularly at the entrance to the wild cirque I soon reached a torrent coming down from the left. This was still higher than usual and all the stepping stones were under water. I managed to cross and stay dry and soon after I saw that the footbridge that crossed the main river was gone. I wasn't going to try and cross that raging river so I found myself in a quandary.

What an extraordinary place for a hotel...5 star prices mind.

Cirque de Gavarnie. The main waterfall is over 400 metres high...for scale

I decided to turn back and explore options new. I had seen a sign for a refuge back at the hotel so I headed for there. As I crossed back over the torrent I very nearly came a cropper as I slipped off a rock and had to suddenly wade knee deep in water to rectify myself. To make things better I saw that I needn't have gone as far as this stream to reach the missing footbridge. The refuge was called Refuge de Espuguettes and it was situated at over 2000 metres so I would have a 500 metre climb to reach it. It would do for a start. The trail was good and in places quite spectacular as it cut across overhanging cliffs before it eventually reached pastoral ground at Challet de Pailla. I reached open ground here and wow, what a spectacular view. Up here I was looking up at Pic Rouge de Pailla (a mere 2780metres) and to its right the giant Grand Astazou soared to over 3000 metres. Left of the pass Hournette d'Alan 2430 metres rose the ridge that reached up to Pimene at just over 2800 metres. It was simply wonderful and my disappointment at not being able to climb La Taillon was forgotten. I climbed up as far as the refuge and here I stopped for a rest and, after a look at the map and the ridge decided to head for Pimene.

Pic Rouge de Pailla and Grand Astazau

Refugedes Espuguettes

There was quite a few people milling about and why not. This refuge is on the HRP route and the area in general is a walkers paradise. Once I left the busy hut area I was almost immediately alone again. I followed the HRP trail until the point where my route cut off to the left and traversed under steep ground before zig zagging up the steep slope to reach the crest of the ridge at point 2487 metres. Unfortunately the cloud, which had been building slowly, enveloped the mountainside and I was in a misty snowy world. There wasn't too much snow but it did make me a bit more careful as I scrambled up the pleasingly narrow crest of the ridge. I stuck to the crest until suddenly out of the mist I reached the summit cairn. I didn't delay and simply about turned and returned the way I had come. Once I was off the crest I re-emerged under the cloud and easily followed the trail back to the hut. I didn't stop and continued the descent until I was able to take a different route that led back to Gavarnie. I reached the gite and enjoyed a long leisurely afternoon. Later on the clouds cleared and I was able to look up at where I had been. While on the crest of the ridge I had simply reasoned that when I had reached the cairn that I had reached the mountain top but I was mistaken. I had turned around at the Petit Pimene (2667 metres) which was little more than a bump on the ridge to the main summit. The drop was only 20 metres from the top and the ridge continued on to the main summit, only 500 metres further on. All of which I couldn't see at the time. 

Summit selfie...ah no Ted

Reaching the ridge.

Still I wasn't too disappointed. It had been a great day. 22 kilometres...1500 metres ascent in  hours 20 minutes.

June 22nd 2024

The forecast for the next few days was good so I decided climb La Taillon over the next two. I had booked myself into the Refuge Sarradete for tonight so I had the option of going for the summit either today or tomorrow. As I was checking out of the gite today I had agreed with the campsite that I could leave a bag with them and pitch my tent the following evening. That meant I wouldn't have to carry everything up to the refuge. With the footbridge gone in the cirque I decided to get to the refuge via the trail that leaves the village and heads up to Plateau de Bellevue. It was just a 300 metre climb to reach the plateau and it passed easily. Once up and out of the trees, the views were glorious. The Cirque was of course the main attraction but across the valley, yesterdays hike was on show. Pimene soared over Gavarnie and I could really see how where I had reached was just a bump on the way to the summit. Up ahead the trail contoured around above the deep valley and headed ultimately towards Port de Boucharo.

On the right the ground rose steeply to tops over 2300 metres but across the valley La Taillon soared and looked wonderful. Mind you, it also was a long way above and I was in no doubt that it would take a good effort to reach it. When I passed through a narrow section the valley opened out again and here lots of cattle grazed. There are two options available to reach the refuge from here. One heads to the Port before contouring back under the northern slopes of La Taillon. It then climbs up to Col de Sarradete and the nearby refuge. The other takes a more direct line up to the col. I opted for the direct route. After the lovely friendly gradients of the trail so far, this route was steep in places. Another factor was the amount of snow that was still on the mountain. Extensive snow fields reached right down to around 2200 metres. At least I could now justify bringing the axe and crampons.

Before long I reached a snow field that reached right up to the col. I wondered what the snow would be like. I feared that I would be sinking to my knees but it was a pleasant surprise to find it was quite firm. I didn't follow the tracks that went away to the right and I presume zig zagged up to reach the track from the Port. Instead I just went up on a direct line. It was never too steep and averaged about 35%. Before I reached the main track I had to contour across a steeper section but soon I was on the busy main route. And busy it was. Lots of people were headed in both directions. Clearly La Taillon was a popular outing. Before long I reached the col and the refuge was just a few hundred metres away. Once I reached it I relaxed for a short while and wondered what to do next. It was just 12.45 so it was really too early to stop. Add to this the fact that the refuge really didn't look too inviting so it was an easy decision to try and head for the summit today.

I must confess to struggling. I don't know whether it was lack of fitness or simply carrying a heavier bag than yesterday ( I couldn't leave everything below in the campsite in one bag) or the fact that I was climbing up through snow with crampons on my feet but it became a stop start affair as I headed up the slopes towards Breche de Roland. I was really looking forward to seeing the Breche. It is break in the spectacular 40 metre high wall of rock on the crest of the ridge. I had seen photos but in real life it is a truly spectacular place. It seemed to take forever to reach it but it was awe inspiring. Once through the gap the path rises and contours on steep snow on the Spanish side of the rock. This section of rock is seriously overhanging and in places the melting snow from the top gave a chill shower even though the track was 20 metres or more from the base. A little easy scrambling is needed to pass the final rock barrier on the ridge before straightforward ground is reached that stretches to the summit slopes. As is not unusual cloud had been increasing in the afternoon but now the summit became veiled and spots of rain came with a chilly breeze. I looked to the northwest and could see a weather front approaching and Vignemale and the rest were no longer visible. Since I was quite tired by now and the weather promising to get inclement I decided to give the summit a miss and turned back about 500 metres from the top.

Bad weather coming.

I returned to the breche and descended towards the refuge. It was still staying dry but looking increasingly gloomy and the cloud continued to close in. The refuge still looked as unwelcoming as ever and I decided that I would give it a miss and descend to the valley. When I reached the Col de Sarradets however, I could see that rain was pretty imminent so I turned about and returned to the refuge. The cloud enveloped the refuge as I arrived and the rain began soon after. I checked in and discovered that not only was bottled water all there was to drink but that there was no water in the taps for washing etc. In the main room the tables were actually sticky. Now I'm not a complete stickler for hygiene but sharing a confined place with 40 or 50 other people with no sanitary facilities other than the dry toilets isn't my idea of fun. Dinner was quite good but a few of my fellow diners weren't too happy with the situation either. It didn't come as a huge surprise to me to discover that I had developed a nasty dose of diarrhoea by the morning. I was feeling pretty queasy so I decided to return the valley.

13 kilometres....1700 metres ascent in 6 hours 15 minutes

June 23rd 2024

The details of my morning are best left to fade into memory but suffice to say that even if I felt strong enough to venture up to the summit, the thought of being caught short while on open snow slopes with lots of people about, most certainly didn't appeal. A special mention must also be made to the group of numpties with whom I had the pleasure of sharing the dorm. Loud and boisterous from the afternoon until late made it a chore.

When most people were headed up I headed down. The rain of the previous night was gone but the cloud persisted. Instead of returning the way I came up, this morning I decided to head towards Port de Boucharo. It is a very straightforward route and height is very slowly lost. Once at the rather bleak (at least it was this morning) Port the trail drops into the beginning of the valley I climbed up yesterday. If the morning was clear I had thought to stay high and go to Col de Tents and climb Pic de Tents 2262 metres and Pic de la Pahule2292 metres from where I could descend to the village. However things being like they were, a direct descent was probably for the best. Once down into the valley the going was easy. As I got lower the cloud was starting to break in patches and I could get glimpses of sunkist summits. 

The further down I got the better I started to feel and by the time I was approaching the village things felt good. I went to the campsite straight away. I was really looking forward to having a shower, getting my tent up and crashing for a while. It was disappointing to discover that the campsite wouldn't let me register or put the tent up until 2pm. Bollocks to it. It was just 11.45 now. With little other option I went into the village shop and bought myself a baguette and cheese and went into a little park by the river and made some tea and had a very leisurely bite to eat. The wait made the shower when it came all the sweeter and the long afternoon was spent resting and lazing around. Hopefully by tomorrow I would be back to normal.

June 24th 2024

I had a plan. Today I would climb to the Refuge Bayssellance from where I would climb Vignemale the following morning. After that I would go as far as Refuge Wallon, from where I could climb the Grand Fache. That would take care of the next four to five days. I could then finalise a plan of action for the last couple of days available to me. The forecast was looking good as well. 

I was feeling normal today. No stomach problems was a great relief and I hoped that that issue was behind me. I had the day long to reach the refuge, so I enjoyed a leisurely morning and didn't leave the village until almost 9am. It was a beautiful morning. Sunny but not too warm. I had actually been on this route before when I walked from Luchon to Cauterets several years ago. I knew what to expect and I knew it wouldn't be easy. After leaving the village you soon pass the refuge at Holle and then a steep climb up past the road that heads up to the ski lifts. At around the 1800 metre contour you arrive at a plateau and it is easy going after that. The next 10 kilometres are a joy. The path undulates along the mountain side and in a few places cuts into a few side valleys that offer new views, until finally you reach the Barrage d'Ossoue. The next kilometre is through the stony flood plane behind the dam before you finally begin the long climb towards the refuge. I'd love to say that the near 900 metre climb to reach the refuge flew by but I can't. I made steady progress but I confess to flagging for the final couple of hundred. The weather stayed great and the views got better and better. This is proper high mountain stuff. Vignemale, at just a couple of metres shy of 3300 metres is the highest mountain in the French Pyrenees. It boasts the biggest rock face and, on this side the biggest glacier. It looks big and intimidating, especially when you are feeling as tired as I was.

What I'm leaving behind

Where I'm going. Easy walking as you contour above the valley.

Delightful side valleys.

Eventually the hut came into view and from the numbers of people milling about it was clear it was going to be a busy night. I had booked in but I was tempted by the plentiful bivy spots littered about near the hut. In the end I decided that the hut would offer a better rest and hopefully recovery so I checked in. The hut is compact and and a little dark inside, but it was clean (it even had running water) and flushing loos.  The dorm was quiet and clean and I whiled away some time there and outside before dinner. There was 12 people at our table. A group of three sat at one end, I was at the other and in between a group of eight men and women, all of whom were in their mid sixties. They made the rather unfortunate assumption that I was English but to be fair were profuse in their apologies when they discovered I was Irish. I forgave them. One young guy arrived shortly before dinner and I was surprised to see he only wore sneakers on his feet. Mind you he did have rock climbing shoes on the outside of his bag. I got chatting to him and it transpired that he was from Sweden and hoping to do a big loop over a couple of days. He had come from Cauterets but he planned on trying a massive loop of around 40 kilometres the following day which included three high cols. I think I dissuaded him and instead he was going to head to Gavarnie, possibly climb Pimene and get the bus back to Luz in the evening. 

The start of the Glacier d'Ossou

Petit Vignemale in the front

Looking towards Gavarnie

After dinner I whiled away the evening enjoying the glorious weather and views. At 9 pm about 35 army guys came over the nearby col and when they reached the hut they busied themselves taking the unoccupied bivy places and looking for places for the rest. They were a tough looking bunch. One of their sergeants was particularly fearsome looking. Before I went to bed I visited the loo and was alarmed to discover that everything was liquid. Things didn't improve and I spent a long night with many visits to the toilet.

June 25th 2024

When dawn arrived everybody got up for breakfast. I went down but I could only manage a few sips of coffee and little biscotti pieces. I was queasy and weak. The chance of climbing Vignemale was gone. I looked at the nearby Petit Vignemale which would give me a 3000 metre peak and was only a 300 metre climb, but it was all an open snow slope and once again, the prospect of having to go to the loo in such a busy route made it a no go. I sat around after "breakfast" and eventually set about the task of packing up and setting off. My new plan was to go down to Cauterets for a couple of nights and hopefully recover. 

What a beautiful morning

The walk to nearby Hourquette d'Ossoue was easy. Even though the pass is at 2734 metres it was just a one hundred metre climb from the hut. There had been a good frost overnight and the snow was quite icy. Once at the pass I stopped and put on my crampons and got out the axe. Given the extensive snow on this side I was very glad to have them. A Spanish trio who were ahead of me were soon struggling on the icy snow and they stopped at the first rocky section they reached. I made easy progress and before long I was able to remove the hardware and continue on the stony trail. Lots of people were coming up from the refuge in the valley below and some were asking if the snow was icy. 

The impressive north side of the mountain.

The rock face is 600 metres high.

I was feeling less queasy and felt better to be moving. Still the wide flat valley that housed the refuge seemed to take an age to arrive. It had been my intention to bivy there in the afternoon after climbing Vignemale. What a place this is. The view of the massive 600 metre north face of the mountain is awe inspiring. It would have been nice to while away the evening looking at it but thems the breaks. Once past the hut the next section heads to the lovely Lac de Gaube. This section I knew would be tougher than it appears on the map. Initially the trail is a delight as it loses height very gradually and keeps the river company. After a while it gets rougher and steeper and the lake is a long time coming. Finally when you get near the lake the path is over boulders until you reach the outlet. Feeling better I might have been but I was still very tired by the time I got that far. On the plus side the weather was wonderful and lots of people were about enjoying this beautiful place.

Finally reaching Lac de Gaube

There were so many people that I was sure it must have been a public holiday. As I descended to Pont d'Espagne there was an almost constant stream of people coming up against me. Finally, after I passed the spectacular pont, I reached the trail that dropped to la Raillere and Cauterets. The crowds were left behind thankfully but my fatigue remained. The river that descends alongside the trail is spectacular and thunderous. Swollen as it was with snow melt it was a constant succession of waterfalls and cascades. When I reached la Raillere I took the most direct route to Cauterets. This is a quiet and pleasant trail that soon enters the top of the village. It avoids the GR10 and means so avoids the climb out of La Raillere. It was very warm down in Cauterets and I was really looking forward to reaching the apartment I had rented for a couple of nights. It came as a shock to discover when I rang the number, to be told that this was the wrong number and the apartment had nothing to do with him. He had very little English and I have very little French so I went up to the tourist office and they rang the number. It seems that the apartment was owned by a couple who had recently gotten divorced. Thankfully he gave them the correct number and I soon had the access codes. It felt so so good to drop the bag and I enjoyed a long long refreshing shower. I did little else but eat and sleep for the rest of that day and the following one.

21 kilometres....150 metres ascent....1900 metres descent in 7 hours 30 minutes.

June 27th 2024

I have to say I enjoyed my time off. I ate two humungous dinners and generally chilled out. Today wasn't going to be too big an outing but I was really looking forward to getting back up into the mountains. The plan for today was to get as far as Refuge Wallon, from where I could hopefully climb the Grand Fache tomorrow. After my experience before Vignemale I wasn't going to take anything for granted. It was another lovely weather day when I set off once again for Pont d'Espagne. The bag felt heavy but I was feeling okay and I made decent progress. Not that I was in any great hurry. It was not my intention to try and climb the mountain today so I had loads of time to get to the refuge.

It took me just over two hours to reach the pont. Not bad considering it was almost eight kilometres and 600 meters ascent. I relaxed here for a while before heading into new territory for me. The Marcadau valley is supposed to be one of the most lovely in the Pyrenees and I was really looking forward to seeing it. The introduction to it is very gentle and the route follows a quiet lane that rises gently near the river and pastures. After about four kilometres the pastures end and a steep climb up through the woods gains some height. After a couple of kilometres you cross the river and the views become more alpine as you get near the refuge. Here you reach the confluence of no less than five routes that cross five different passes in the impressive wall of mountains ahead. After rounding a corner suddenly the refuge comes into view. It is huge and modern and an intriguing design. It was still quite early, just about 13.45, so I briefly considered heading for the summit. Sense prevailed however and instead I went to have a look at the nearby bivy area.

The mightily impressive Refuge Wallon

The Grand Fache is the one on the right

I don't know if it was too close to the crashing river or that I was getting soft but I decided to stay in the refuge instead. The very friendly guardian soon had me sorted out and I must say that I was glad I had decided to stay. The refuge is large, spotlessly clean with spacious airy dorms and lots of space to store your stuff. I had plenty of grub with me so I was just paying for the dorm. I enjoyed a long afternoon and evening exploring the surrounding area and chillaxin. At one point there was a tiny spit of rain and the cloud build up on the mountains looked ominous. The expected thunder storm never materialised however and I was amazed at how quickly the cloud dissipated. There weren't many people bivying but a few arrived after nine thirty and wearily set up house. They either had had really long days or had set off later from Cauterets.

Space really is not a problem

It had been a good day...16 kilometres...1000 metres ascent in 4 hours 40 minutes.

June 28th 2024

I left most of my gear in the refuge and I set off for the Grand Fache at 07.30. It was a beautiful weather morning but the guardian had warned that strong winds were forecast for above 2600 metres. It was just a gentle breeze down here and the few small clouds didn't show any signs of strong winds but I would just have to wait and see.

The trail heads gently into the valley until you turn right and cross two footbridges and reach steeper ground. The trail zig zags up the slope until a higher valley is reached. I should say that down by the footbridges there are some excellent places to bivy. Anyway, up here at around the 2300 metre contour I reached the first snow patches. I expected that it would be mostly snow all the day to the col (still some 300metres higher up) but the trail avoided most of it as it climbed into ever wilder mountain scenery. I wasn't exactly flying along but at least I didn't have any stomach issues. The Col de Fache at 2664 metres felt wild and remote. There seemed to be more snow on the western side and things had a real high mountain feel. All that was left to do was climb the steep 350 metres to the summit.

The Col up ahead...Climbing the skyline

It looked steep, rocky and a little intimidating. I must confess to having a little crisis of confidence. On the plus side the wind was light so I set off up. There was a path that wound its way up through the rock that was marked by cairns. I followed this in the beginning but at times it was a pain to distinguish so I opted to stay on the crest and climb the rock. This was great fun and soon I was engrossed in the simple task of route finding and climbing. The ridge offered lovely scrambling at around Grade 2, possibly tougher in spots but anything difficult could easily be avoided. The ridge narrows near the top and would be dicey if the winds had been strong but no such problems today. I reached the airy summit (3005 metres)at 10.45. Three and a quarter hours after setting off and an hour from the col. I chilled out for a while and soaked in the stunning views. To the east Vignemale stood well above the rest. To be south Picos del Fierno (3076 metres) looked very impressive and alpine and to the west, across the landscape of snow and lakes loomed the huge Balaitous at 3144 metres. Beyond Pic du Midi d'Ossou looked gnarly in the misty distance. 

Final section to the summit.

Towards Vignemale

Picos del Fierno

After a little while I turned and started the descent. Now I searched for the path and stuck to it. I took my time but it soon passed and I returned along the trail back to the refuge. I stopped here and enjoyed a celebratory beer and a bite of lunch in the warm sunshine. I contemplated staying in the refuge once again but it really was too early so I gathered up the remainder of my stuff and set off towards Plateau de Clot which wasn't too far away from Pont d'Espagne. The descent went well. I was concerned that tomorrow would be a very short outing if I went all the was to the bivy area near Chalet du Clot, so, as I neared the place where the valley opened out and the river slowed, I started looking for a possible place to pitch my tent. The trail splits here. I had followed the road to this point going up, so this time I crossed the river and started to follow that trail. I had only gone a few hundred metres when I spied what looked like a flattish area up to my left near the trees. I went to explore and I was delighted to find a small flat clear spot with just enough room for my tent. It had the added benefit of being out of sight of the trail and a stream descended 20 metres away. I was sorted. I wasted no time in getting the tent up. It was really warm now and as it was still just 4 pm it would be quite a while before things cooled down. I guess things are seldom perfect. As it was so hot in the tent I tried to stay outside. I gave myself a wash and brewed some tea and read for a bit but eventually the mosquitos became too much. The buggers were even biting me through my t-shirt and I had lots of itchy lumps later on. I had to retreat into the tent again. Thankfully some mist rose up from the valley and obscured the sun and things cooled considerably around six.

Bivy spot.

19 kilometres....1200 metres ascent...1500 metres descent...7 hours 20 minutes. It had been a good day.

June 29th 2024

I slept pretty well. There had been a couple of spits of rain before dawn but nothing much and the forecast was for a fine morning with rain arriving around 11am. As I snoozed in my warm sleeping bag in the half light of dawn I was surprised when a flash of lightning lit up the tent. An immediate blast of thunder got rid of any lingering sleep. Rain arrived at the same time. It seemed that the fine weather wouldn't materialize after all. The storm lasted for about an hour and strangely I found myself enjoying it. There really isn't any point in worrying as what will be will be and I enjoyed the sounds of the crashing thunder that rolled and rumbled around the steep walls of the valley. I was in no great hurry and I settled in to wait out the worst of the weather. When things quieted down I peered out and saw that things didn't look too bad and there seemed to be the odd break in the cloud. While I had a weather window I breakfasted and packed up and set off on the final leg of this trip. The return was very straightforward. All I had to do was follow the easy trail as far as Pont d'Espagne and then trail alongside the cascading river once again. It was a pity to have to cover the same ground again but there was really no option, as to return a different way would have meant climbing another pass from Refuge Wallon and, after climbing the Grand Fashe it would have been a bit too big an undertaking. When I reached La Rallliere  I opted to stick to the GR 10 and climbed up into the woods on the far side. There was a trail race on at the same time and from there to Cauterets the trail was very busy. Once I reached the village I went to the bus station and settled in to wait the two hours for the bus to Lourdes. The heavens opened literally when I reached the shelter of the station and it rained into the evening. I was really lucky to avoid the rain.

The impressive Pont d'Espagne

12 kilometres...900 metres descent...3 hours 20 minutes

So ended another trip. I didn't get all I wanted done and I was particularly disappointed to miss out on Vignemale. It was the first time that illness played a part in any trip I've been on, so overall I have been very fortunate. I still really enjoyed the trip and I think I would like to return to climbing more peaks in future outings...or maybe I'll stick to the trails...decisions decisions.