I've been on my travels again. With the promise of a good weather window and with a bus traveling to Cloghane on Friday morning, I decided to do a traverse of the wonderful Dingle Peninsula over three days.
Friday May 28th;
After a train to Tralee, I got on the 9am bus which deposited me in a quiet,sunny and beautiful Cloghane at 09.50. So, backpack loaded with all the necessary equipment and food, I strode along quiet lanes until I reached the roads end at Brandon Point. Now, normally I'm not a great fan walking on the road, but with the hedgerows blooming, and the scenery so beautiful, it was easy to forgive the intrusion of the odd car. It took over an hour to reach the point, and since breakfast was back at 6am, I enjoyed a bite to eat at this wonderful vantage point. Blue sea, warm sun and no breeze made for a wonderful rest. I relaxed and watched the gannets flying below me and enjoyed the spectacle of them diving for fish. I had a long journey ahead of me, so I almost reluctantly left the spot, and began to climb towards An Sas.
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An Sas and Masatiompán beyond
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Looking up at the main ridge
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View to Brandon Creek and the Three Sisters
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This section, in weather such as this, is simply divine. The views to the sea and back to Cloghane and beyond open up, and are wonderful, but the gnarly skyline of the main ridge of Mount Brandon is truly special. It thrills and excites, but first I had to get there. The glory of the spectacular sunken coum of An Sas is always special, but up next comes the near 500mtr climb to Masatiompán. It is a brute with the heavy bag, but it does pass. The rewards, in terms of views, are more than ample compensation. On top of all that, there before you, you now can gaze down to that majestic juxtaposition of hills, coastline and islands, that is famous the world over. Not that all the climbing is over. Far from it, but the worst bit is done. There follows several wonderful kilometres as you approach and pass Brandon itself. After the big pull up to Brandon Peak, I could begin to think about reaching Ballysitteragh, where I hoped to camp for the night. I filled my water bottles from a young watercource near the boggy flat below Gerhane. Now, laden with the extra few kilos, all that was left was the 200mtr climb to the broad summit. Once there, I found that right beside the cairn was perfect for camping. It was a delight to drop the bag and I wasted no time in setting up my home for the night. Dinner soon followed and a delightful evening was enjoyed. It had been a very worthy start to the trek. 25 kilometres covered, 1900mtrs of climbing in 8 hours. I slept well.
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Looking at Ballysitteragh and that final 200 metre pull to the top.
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The rough glory of the ridge as you approach Brandon
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Saturday May 29th;
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Nice view to wake up to.
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I was feeling tired this morning. It was an easy thing to snuggle in my warm sleeping bag and idle away some time. It was after 8am when I finally persuaded myself to get up. I emerged into another beautiful weather day. There was a little bit more cloud about and some extra breeze, but it was still near perfect. The plan for today was simple. Just head east. Once I passed the Conor Pass I had a choice to make. I could head for the line of hills that run on the southern edge of the broad bogland that stretches to Annascaul lake, or I could climb Slieveanea and Benoskee on the northern side. I chose the first option, as it gave, what seemed, the most logical and linear route. Neither option is easy. The southern option gives an easier route for the hills but entails a long, rising, semi circular traverse of trackless rough ground before you can continue over Dromavally Mountain. A good track rises from the Conor Pass and offers easy access to the first top of the line at Croaghskerda. This involves a short out and back but it is a superb viewpoint. Next comes An Cnapan Mor with its wonky summit cross. All nice and easy so far, but there is a considerable climb to reach Cnoc na Banoige. The final top of the ridge is Knockmulanane, after which a steep drop is needed to reach the aforementioned expanse of bog.
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View as I near the Conor pass
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On the ridge heading towards Anascaul
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There is no easy way to get across this, but perseverance eventually pays, and I started the gradual climb to Dromavally. My legs were tired starting out this morning and they really didn't improve. I persevered but it felt hard. Boggy ground really saps the energy so it was a relief to reach the crest where easier ground was to be found. The huge megalithic cairn and standing stones were a lovely reminder of the ancient history of the place. I enjoyed a brief rest on the summit before setting off on the next leg of the journey. Even though the next section is the lowest of the traverse, it certainly isn't the easiest. For the next several kilometres the ground is wet and constantly crossed with peat banks, and the inevitable sodden holes between. The time was shoving on and I began to look for somewhere to camp for the night. Eventually, after I passed Knockbeg, I spotted a likely gully where I dropped down and filled my water bottles again. Shortly thereafter, I spotted a dry grassy knoll and I headed for it. I once again had my home for the night. The evening wasn't as idyllic as last night, as just after dinner, the midges emerged in force, so I had to retreat into my tent. It had been another worthy effort with 28 kilometres covered, 1200 metres climbed in 8.5 hours. The rest was most welcome.
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Towards Benoskee. A big traverse of the bog needed to avoid the gap above Anascaul Lake
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Still a log way to reach Caherconree
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Brandon being left behind.
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Ancient cairn and looking back the ridge I'd travelled
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The next hills are lower but not any easier to cross. The Slieve Mish beyond
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| Day 1 map |
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| Day 2 map |
Sunday May 30th;
I didn't sleep as well last night but, strangely, I felt better rested. I got up at 6am so as to ensure sufficient time for the walk to Tralee. It was yet another wonderful morning. A nice breeze ensured that the beasties allowed me to breakfast in peace, and I felt in great form as I set off on the final leg of this trip at 7am. The couple of kilometres to the crossing point of the busy Dingle road soon passed, and after another easy couple of kilometres on a quiet lanes and forest track, I reached the first climb of the day. Nothing too desperate, but the 150mtr pull got the blood pumping, before a rough boggy descent saw me reach the road under Caherconree. This beautiful mountain looks its best from here. It rises impressively to the ridge high above, before rising to the lovely viewpoint and ringfort not far below the summit. There were several cars at the trailhead and I could see a couple of groups up ahead. I wasn't really looking forward to the 600 metre climb, but I consoled myself with the knowledge that after it was done, so was most of the climbing for the day.
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Approaching the first climb of the day
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Caherconree nearing and looking great
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As is often the way, once you manage to keep putting one foot in front of the other and keep plodding along, ground is steadily gained, and I soon passed the groups when they stopped for a rest. One group, Indonesian or some such, actually had one person carrying a music player, so that for some time before and after I passed I had to endure its intrusion. I left them in no doubt about my displeasure. Anyway, to better things. As I got higher things only got more spectacular. The glories of the Iveragh Peninsula become more apparent and of course the immediate surroundings aren't bad either. Once I reached the remains of the ring fort, high on the shoulder of the mountain, the wind became quite strong and when I shortly thereafter reached the summit, I had to put on my jacket against the chill. Next up came Baurtregaum, which at 851mtrs, would be the high point of the day. The 150 metre climb is gradual enough and soon passed and I stood on the broad stony summit. From there I headed for Glanbrack mountain where I rested and enjoyed a nice early lunch.
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Looking way way back to the start.
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Next up Baurtregaum
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Being a couple of hundred metres lower than Baurtregaum, it was now less breezy and quite warm. The next few kilometres give easy walking, as you gently progress along the broad serpentine ridge. Since I had made good progress after the early start, I was confident that I would reach Tralee in good time for my train home. I could have descended towards Blennerville from several spots along the ridge, but I wanted to stay on the mountains for as long as possible. With that in mind I didn't turn from the ridge until after I reached the col beyond Baranageehy. The descent along the eastern side of the stream was initially pleasant enough, but the second half was a horrible, rough, super boggy, trackless mess, that had me regretting not choosing an earlier spur. Eventually I reached the Dingle Way trail and a blessedly easy descent followed to the road. Down here it was really warm, but the end was in sight and I was looking forward to coffee and cake in Tralee. A nasty kilometre on the busy main road soon passed, and then I was able to enjoy the remaining few kilometres into town alongside the canal. I reached the station at 14.45 so I had timed it pretty perfectly for the 15.10 train. It had been another substantial day. 28.5 kilometres covered, 1100 metres climbed in 7 hours 45 minutes. The coffee went down a treat.
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Easy walking beyond Baurtregaum
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The Killarney mountains ans the Reeks look great
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A fair way to go but the end (Tralee) in sight
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In Blennerville..Looking at the distant start
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Overall I had covered 82 kilometres with just over 4000 metres of ascent in the 3 days. Stunning weather surely helped to make it a memorable experience. The sound of the cuckoo and the ever present delight of the song of the skylark was wonderful. I had been tired at times but overall the body is still strong. When it was all over I certainly felt a good sense of satisfaction and accomplishment. And it was so nice to relax on the train. Perfect.
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| Day 3 map. |
