In the last couple of months I have experienced Carrauntoohil in very different guises. In the middle of January I climbed Curve Gully when it was at its very best for ice climbing. A little while after that I went back and climbed up O'Sheas Gully on a wet cloudy day, when things could best be described as atmospheric. We had a good dump of snow on the mountains the previous few days and I decided to head back once again and see what was on offer. I was hopeful of climbing The Step or having a rummage around in The Grey Area but it was not to be.
As I drove back I was a little disappointed to see that the temperature was up at 8 degrees and heading higher. Since there hadn't been any meaningful frost overnight I suspected that the snow that had fallen would be slushy and soft. Indeed it came as a surprise to see that only the tops above 600 metres held and traces of snow at all. That is when I could see any tops, as the cloud and frequent heavy rain showers obscured my view most of the drive back. The forecast promised a fine weather day so I was hopeful that things would improve. It was a relief to see that by the time I was heading out of Killarney the skies were clearing and now I could also see that there was still a lot of snow on the mountains above 600 metres. When I left the car it was a really pleasant morning, 8 degrees, with only a slight breeze and mostly clear skies.
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| Cloud clings to Carrauntoohil |
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| The East Reeks in the clear |
Entering the Hags Glen is always special. Modest in height by international standards these mountains may be but the punch above their weight and always look impressive and they form a formidable barrier as they loom in front of you. Today with snow covering the upper half they looked even better. As often seems to happen, the East Reeks tops were clear of cloud but Carrauntoohil was shrouded and some rain/snow was falling in Coumeenoughter. As is usual on a Sunday there were lots of people about. Thankfully most of those I saw were suitable dressed and equipped. I followed the trail as it rose into the ever more impressive mountain scenery ahead. The cloud was lifting and I could see the impressive north and east face of the mountain. The Grey area looked steep and intimidating in its alpine sugar coating but the ridges were clear of snow. This indicated that the thaw was well underway and I had little optimism that the snow would be firm or that any useful ice could be found. The snow line started at the first level but it was soft and slushy. It didn't improve as I rose up to the second level. Indeed the only difference was that there was more of it. When I could see The Step it looked great, but I knew it was an illusion and to climb it would have meant a torturous procession up deep slush and black rock. I decided to turn instead to Curve Gully and climb that until I reached the second half of it from where I could perhaps access the Grey Area if conditions up there proved better.
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A spectacular place to be
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| More snow on the second level |
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| The gully well banked out. Glad to see the steps |
To be honest I was expecting the gully to be a torturous wallow. It was banked out with snow and presented a much easier proposition than the last time I was there when some delicate Grade 2 ice climbing was to be had. I could see that a pair of climbers were after starting up as I approached so I knew that I would have some steps in the snow. I debated whether to put on my crampons or not when I reached the gully as the snow was not exactly icy, but I reckoned that if things got better higher up then it would be easier and save time to have them on now. I was delighted to find that the steps in the gully were reasonably solid and not too deep. Clearly they had been made before today. Progress was therefore easy and rapid. When I got up near the upper section of the gully I did a brief detour to see what the conditions were like on the open ground to the left. What looked like promising snow-ice was soft and cruddy and slid off the rocks in sheets. I stuck to the gully. Winter conditions make Curve a spectacular place to be. It was a simple joy to climb up through the deep upper section and feel secure in the good conditions. I saw a bit of video of rivers of Graupel flowing down the gully the previous week and I was grateful for the conditions today.
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| Looking up in the upper section. |
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| Looking down. |
I topped out to a calm snow covered summit that was trying hard to break through the wispy cloud. With no views and it still being too early for lunch I decided to head down straight away. The track down towards the Devils Ladder was, as expected, well trodden and the going was rapid and easy. I decided to descend via the Heavenly Gates and this went very well. This route can be quite intimidating when it is banked out with heavy snow as the path is covered and the ground is steep. I remember once doing it with full snow cover and with the added spice of blizzard conditions. I was very relieved to reach the KMR hut that day. Today however was a different story and it was a pleasure to cross the spectacular ground. The views down to Lough Gouragh and Lough Callee were almost aerial and of course the East Reeks were spectacular beyond. I kept the crampons on until below the Heavenly Gates and thereafter it was easy going back to the car. It had been a very enjoyable outing. I was perhaps a little disappointed not to have done the Step but Curve delivered once again. Maybe winter will provide another chance before it ends.
