A traverse of the Dingle Peninsula (The Haute Route)

A good weather forecast and a few days off coincided so I headed to Tralee on the train with my fully laden rucksack and set off on a three day quest to do a full traverse of the beautiful Dingle Peninsula.

Friday May 3rd;

 I alighted from the train in a sunny Tralee at 11am and boarded the bus heading for Dingle. I went as far as the nearby village of Blennerville where I left the bus and treated myself to a coffee and the biggest slice of "Rocky Road" I have ever seen. So suitably overdosed on sugar I set off on my long walk at 11.45.

Back towards Tralee

Rough ground all the way to the ridge.

Initially I walked the kilometre or so along the busy road (this can be avoided) but then I joined the lane that rises gently up towards the open mountain beyond. The weather was glorious, with a gentle breeze and plenty of sunshine. By the time I reached the end of the road I was sweating from carrying the heavy bag and still wearing my jacket. I took off a layer and had a drink and set off into the wild. My plan was simple. To reach the crest/spine of the mountains and basically follow this, crossing over the mountain tops all the way to the furthest extreme of the peninsula. This would take me three days and should offer a proper wild mountain experience. First up though I had to reach the crest and this involved a lengthy slog up gentle but boggy ground. I was aiming to reach the crest at around the 450 metre contour and this was about a kilometre west of the communication masts. Straight away once the laneway is left behind there is a wild feel. This only increases the further up the mountain you progress and very quickly the only noise I could hear (besides my laboured breathing) was a distant Cuckoo and the trill of a Skylark. The sun had retreated behind some clouds and with arctic air flowing over the country it was suddenly decidedly chilly. Back on went the coat which was later joined by hat and gloves. Winter wasn't that long ago after all.

View towards Iveragh

The way ahead is much more serpentine than appears from below

Despite the late start I wasn't worried about time as there was a long evening ahead and sunset wasn't until after 9pm. That isn't to say I was taking it easy and I kept up a good pace on the climb to the crest. As I neared the crest the wind increased further and it was now at times buffeting. A layer of cloud clung to the highest tops but elsewhere the views were wonderful and extensive. Now I know I have been here before but it is always exciting to reach the crest of a ridge when suddenly your views are doubled and the landscape beyond is revealed. Here the delights of the Iveragh Peninsula with its wild mountains is a joy to behold as it stretches out into the Atlantic on the other side of Dingle Bay. Indeed I could see further and the mountains stretched away to the east as far as my local hill Mount Hillary some fifty miles away. Behind me the delights of Tralee bay and the myriad of sandy beaches stretched into the north Kerry landscape. I was loving it. Now I had covered about 6 kilometres and climbed nearly 500 metres and I was well and truly into the outing. Easier walking on better ground followed as I passed over the tops of Barnanageehy, Knockauncorragh and Glanbrack on the serpentine ridge. Height is gradually gained and finally I reached the 200 metre slog to the stony summit of Bartregaum (851 metres). With cloud scudding across the chilly bleak summit I didn't delay and I set off towards Caherconree. Briefly I emerged under the clouds at the col between the summits and next up came the gentle 130 metre pull to the top. Again cloud spoiled the view so I turned and headed towards the ancient promontory fort on the shoulder of the mountain. I was soon under the cloud again and the views towards Inch and west towards Benoskee were gorgeous. I had now covered 16 kilometres and my thoughts were turning towards finding somewhere to camp for the night.

Descending Caherconree

Stunning views to the last hills of the day

Back to Caherconree

Starting the final descent. Camped near the small patch of forestry on the right.

I dropped easily along the boggy path towards the little road that rises from the village of Camp and once across this I headed for the outlier of the Slieve Mish range, Moanlaur 566 metres. Though more modest in height this is still rough wild ground and the climb up through heathery ground to Knockbrack and then to the main summit added another 300 metres of climbing to the day. Fatigue was becoming more of a factor so once I had dropped down the 250 metres on the northern flanks to the flat boggy ground below I was fully focused on finding a spot for my tent. This I found a couple of kilometres further on beside a metalled bog road and soon my home for the night was up. It was now nearly 19.30 so the day had taken over seven and a half hours. I had covered 24 kilometres and climbed nearly 1300 metres. It had been a worthy start to the trip. I enjoyed a hot meal and the remaining evening light before retiring to bed in the gloom. I hadn't seen another soul once I left the road and the only sounds to be heard was the call of birdsong. I slept well.

Room with a view for night 1

My old Alpkit Delta enjoying a rare outing

Saturday May 4th;

An insomniac skylark woke me before dawn but I was soon off into lala land again nice and snug in my down sleeping bag. I emerged at 6.30 into a beautiful calm bright morning and what a joy it was to breakfast in the wild and wonderful place. I was all packed up and ready to go at 07.15 and it was just a short walk along the road to reach the main Tralee to Dingle road and once across this I was once again on open ground and I followed the gently rising ridge that headed for the hills above Annascaul. This made for a delightful gentle start to the day and the views to the sea on either side were wonderful. Things gradually get tougher as the terrain gets boggier and going up and over Knocknakilton with its myriad of peat hags and holes makes for tiring progress. The breeze was quite strong and chill so it was another coat and hat day, despite the sun. Finally I reached the col under Dromavally Mountain where I left the worst of the ground behind and started up the 250 metre pull to the 552 metre summit. Time was slipping by quite quickly and it was already after 11am so I had to stop here for a bite to eat in the shade of the large and complex bronze age cairn. As I rested I surveyed the ground ahead and decided that today I would take the tougher continuance and climb Stradbally and Benoskee instead of heading along the ridge that rises from the southern side of the wide expanse of bog that stretches west.

The locals weren't too bothered

The way ahead..towards Benoskee

The way way back

Pastoral foreground with The Reeks and Iveragh beyond

The walk above and around the back of Glanteenassig is lovely but soon I was down at the wide pass and I had to start my climb of Stradbally 798 metres. I would love to be able to say that the 350 metre climb flew by but it seemed in fact interminable but boy oh boy was the reward of the views worth the effort. It is a stunning viewpoint. Here you are basically in the very heart of the peninsula and the views back to the start are great but it is the majesty of the Brandon massif that takes the breath away. It seemed to beckon me on and reinvigorated me for the journey ahead. A short drop from the stony summit and it is an easy climb to reach the higher Benoskee (826 mtrs). Here I enjoyed my lunch and relaxed before dropping easily to the boggy plain below. Now some 500 metres lower I was faced with the energy sapping gradual ascent towards Slievanea. There is no easy way to do it as the wet ground saps the legs and seems to go on for ever. Eventually though, I reached the point where, after I had crossed the sizeable river before Slievenalecka, I had to contour around to the edge of the little lake and and then commence the very steep 250 metre climb to Slievanea. It was very tiring and when I reached the top (another amazing viewpoint) I rested awhile and once again my mind turned to finding somewhere to camp.  I contemplated going all the way to the lake under Fallaghnamara but that would take another two hours or so and I had already been on the move for nearly 9 and I was tired so I decided to pitch up at the nearest possible spot. I walked around to final top above Peddlars Lake and basically headed due south across the gently boggy slope and before too long I had found my home for the night. I had lovely views down to Dingle town and harbour and beyond to the Blasket Islands. I whiled away a very enjoyable evening in the quiet landscape and soaked in the views until the sun had set. Approx 25 kilometres covered with 1350 metres of ascent in just over 9 hours and I hadn't seen another soul all day today either.

Stradbally rising above Glanteenassig

Benoskee and the Brandon massif from Stradbally

The Maherees

The long bog slog with Slievanea on right...easier to follow the left crest

Campsite number two

Sunday May 5th;

There had been a frost overnight and I emerged into a bright clear morning with not a puff of wind. I quickly ate and packed up as it was quite cold but it was a lovely gentle start to the day as I descended to the Conner Pass. I was nice to be here before the masses arrived to enjoy the views but I must give a special mention to the total gobshite that left a few beer cans strewn in the carpark..what a despicable cretin. Anyway to better things.

A chilly start

I climbed away into the wilds again and soon my mind was more engrossed with the wonderful place I found myself in. The broad boggy summit of Ballysitteragh (623 metres) was a wonderful place to pause and enjoy the wonderful 360 degree panorama. Next comes the drop to the pass below Fallaghnamara and then more climbing as I headed towards Gearhane and Brandon Peak. The 400 metre climb is broken in the middle by the level ground beyond Fallaghnamara but it is fair to say I was warm by the time I crossed the "highest gate in Ireland" to reach Gearhane. It was just a stunning morning with warm sun and uninterrupted views in all directions. Things only get better as you head to Brandon Peak and here I stopped for a bit of sustenance.

What a morning. 

I still hadn't met another soul since I started out but I could see other hikers approaching as I headed towards Mount Brandon. Most of the climbing was done for the day except for the near 300 metre pull to the summit of one of my favourite mountains anywhere. It came as something of a shock to find myself in the midst of a group of fellow hikers after so much solitude so I didn't linger. I enjoyed some lunch and soon I was mostly on my own again as I headed along the beautiful ridge towards Masatiompán. A final push to this rounded top and then it was an easy thing to follow the Dingle Way down for a while before I crossed and followed the cliff edge. From the edge the views are predictably spectacular and I couldn't help but marvel at the place where people lived in the famine times. Living among the sloping stony paddocks, situated above the roaring seas and a full 1000 foot climb to exit the area, must have required incredible ingenuity and no small measure of desperation in order to survive. We are indeed fortunate to live when we do. Anyway a final drag saw me reach the 350 metre top at Breennaman and I then dropped to reach the trail that leads easily to the roadside. I briefly debated hitching to Dingle but instead I rang for a taxi which duly arrived and whisked me into the super busy town. Today's effort took me just 7 hours, covered over 21 kilometres and had over 1000 metres of climbing in truly spectacular scenery. I had time for a coffee and delicious cake before I caught the bus back to Tralee. It had been a delightful few days and I basked in the glow of having completed one of the finest wild walks in Ireland.  

Coastal walks to die for

What an extraordinary place to have to had to live

Puts it in context