Hiking in the Dingle Peninsula

 

I haven't really being doing much hillwalking of late, I've been using running and cycling in the main to try and keep fit. As I have a trip upcoming to the Alps in June I reckoned it was high time to get in a few hill days. A great weather forecast coincided with a few days off work so I took the chance to head to one of my favourite places, the Dingle Peninsula.

Thursday,

After finishing a run of nights I needed some sleep so I didn't leave home until 2pm. I was going camping at the Green Acres campsite near Castlegregory and the plan for the evening was to get in a spot of fishing. There was a stiff easterly wind blowing so as it's a big old four man tent and not the easiest to set up when alone and its windy, I opted for the sheltered corner near the games room and play ground to pitch the tent. Once the tent was up I went and dug lugworm for bait and fished at Castegregory beach until 10pm. It was a very enjoyable and busy session as the bass were plentiful and on the feed. I returned to the quiet campsite and enjoyed a lovely peaceful night.

Friday,

Today the plan was to get a good hike in. I had a leisurely morning and I caught up on some sleep and relaxed a while with good coffee and breakfast before deciding to  do a fine outing that would take in Bensokee and several tops that stretch west towards Cloghane. I drove to the junction for Cloghane off the Dingle road and parked there. Up next comes a three kilometre walk along the road until, after crossing the river at a bad bend, easy access is gained to the beautiful valley between Gob an Iolair and Binn an Tuair. The morning was perfect weather wise. The stiff wind of last nght had died down to a breeze and there wasn't a cloud in the sky. I have developed yet another injury, this time the back of my right knee giving trouble and I was apprehensive as to whether it would be problematic during the hike. Once into the valley I turned and started up the steep 500 metre climb that leads to the broad boggy summit of Binn an Tuair, which although it is just 592 metres high, requires a stiff effort to reach it. I thankfully needn't have worried about my knee, as while I could feel it, it didn't hold me back. 

Looking towards Gob an Iolair

The views to the Brandon massif are wonderful

Finally on top and looking towards Benoskee

I paused a little while to enjoy the wonderful views before setting off to the top An Com Bán just a kilometre away before dropping to the col before the final 250 metre climb to the summit of Benoskee 826mtrs. What an amazing viewpoint this is. Situated right in the middle of the peninsula, there are superb views to both the massifs of Bartregaum and Brandon. The Brandon area in particular looks stunning.  I enjoyed a bite of lunch here and I sheltered from the chilly breeze before setting off down to the boggy expanse that separates the hills on the northern and southern sides of the peninsula. 500 metres is lost and the ground gets progressively wetter but there is a delicious sense of remoteness and isolation here. A stiff 150 metre climbing saw me reach the craggy Gob an Iolair. A traverse of the slopes of Sliabh na nGabhar comes next before after another descent and river crossing sees you reach the final climb of the day. 150 metres of ascent and finally I was on the sharp and delightful An Starraicìn. Now this top is just 458mtrs high but don't let the modest height fool you. It is a superb viewpoint, perched as it is atop a steep spine that drops between two valleys filled with lakes and framed by cliffs and waterfalls. It is a truly  magical place. One advantage of the modest height is that it doesn't take long to descend and before too long I was walking alongside the lake shore and soon I was back at the car. One thing to note however is that the start of the descent is quite steep and a good head on steep ground is essential. 

So just under 19 kilometres covered in just over five and a half hours with a respectable 1250 metres ascent thrown in. I was delighted.  Mind you I was less so when I returned to the campsite to discover a few families, each with several small children had arrived and pitched up near me. My quiet time was a thing of the past.

Saturday, 

The breeze of yesterday was after easing off and it was another mostly blue sky day.  The mountains however were veiled in cloud down to around 700 metres. I wasn't too bothered and decided that today I would do a round on the Brandon range. One of my favourite rounds is to start in the delightful village of Cloghane and walk in along the quiet lane that heads towards the wild ground under Ballysitteragh before turning and climbing Gerhane first. The lane is a dead end so it is very quiet and the views become ever more dramatic the further you go. After nearly four kilometres on the lane I turned onto the track/roadway that passes a couple of farmhouses before climbing gently to reach Lough Avoonane. Wow, what a spectacular place this is. The lake nestles under a series of cliffs and cascades that rise over 600 metres to the ridge above. Not that I could see the ridge as it remained hidden in cloud. I was ever hopeful it would clear but the day was calm and dry so I couldn't complain. Now I started up the long, steep and unrelenting climb of the east spur that would eventually see me crest out at the summit of Gerhane 803mtrs. I took it steady and was pleased to find I made good progress. Once in the cloud there was little to distract me and once I reached the top I simply continued on towards Brandon Peak, less than a kilometre away.

Gerhane hidden high above

While following the easy ridge I reminisced on the time I crossed it during the severe cold snap of 2010. Then the entire massif was covered in snow and the ridge had formed a pleasingly sharp snow crest that provided an airy and spectacular passage. When I reached  Brandon Peak (840mtrs) the usually spectacular views were absent so I turned without pause for Brandon itself. The next three kilometres passed easily and only the final bit provided a stiffish pull. I actually had the summit to myself but once again I simply walked on and descended the normal route towards the grotto. Once I re-emerged under the cloud I enjoyed a very pleasant passage, all the way back to my car. I hadn't had the uninterrupted views of yesterday but I had still enjoyed myself immensely.

Finally re-emerging under the cloud

17kilometres today in 5 hours 20 minutes with 1320 metres ascent.

Sunday,

I enjoyed another leisurely start and I was in no hurry to pack everything up and turn for home. It was warm calm and sunny again today but there was more in the way of loud on the mountains, which were veiled down to around 600 metres. By the time I was ready to leave it was almost noon. I decided that I would climb Caherconree from the road that rises from Camp village on the western side of the mountain. There is a marked trail that rises to the old promontory fort that is spectacularly situated at over 650 metres. It was just a short drive to reach the trailhead and I was ready to start by 12.30. Things got off to a great start when I heard my first cuckoo of the year when I got out of the car.  Straight away my eye was drawn to the elegant spur/ridge that rose directly to the fort. I decided that this would be my way up, so I walked down the road a bit until I reached a gate that gave access to the open ground. Right from the start it was steep but do-able and I made sue and steady progress. On a fine Sunday afternoon I expected to see others out on the mountain but I seemed to have the place to myself. The going gets steeper the higher you get until finally the final 100 metres rise up through crags and bluffs when hands are sometimes required.

Looking up towards the fort...steeper than it looks here

Above the fort and Dingle Bay beyond

I crested out in the middle of the fort and it was glorious. The cloud was dissipating all the while and now only the very top had a veil and the views were gorgeous. The remainder of the climb to the 835mtr summit is quite laid back and passed easily. Since I was feeling pretty good I decided to include Baurtregaum 851mtrs in m day as well. This would mean an out and back addition of nearly four kilometres and add an extra 260 metres ascent. As it had taken just 1 hour 20 mins to reach the summit it would still only be a short day. The descent to the wide stony col between the two tops is easy and at times pleasingly narrow. By no the remaining cloud was in retreat and I ambled along in warm sunshine. The pull to the broad stony summit of the fourth highest mountain in the country outside of The Reeks is easy and before long I was enjoying the views from it's top. I simply retraced my steps and I was back on the top of Caherconree an hour after leaving it. I descended back to the fort and then made my way back to the road via the marked trail. This becomes increasingly wet and boggy the lower you get and as luck would have it I managed to have a fall while jumping across a watery patch. Ah well, I had only a few minutes to endure before a welcome change of clothes.

Looking across to Baurtregaum

It had been a lovely hike. Not too demanding as it had only covered 10 kilometres but there had been a respectable 950 metres ascent. All done in just under three and a half hours. I was also pleased that I had visited the three main mountain areas of the peninsula.