The Knockmealdowns and Three Mountain Days on the DIngle Peninsula

Saturday January 6th;

After working from Christmas through the new year I was determined to try and make the most of my long weekend off. So with that in mind I headed to the Knockmealdowns on Saturday morning for a hike before continuing to Youghal where I fished till past midnight in the search for the illusive cod. The fishing was less than wonderful but my hike on the mountains was great and I enjoyed a nice circuit from The Vee to Knockshane. Then up along the broad ridge to reach Knockmoylan before a final push to reach the highest point in the range, Knockmealdown itself at 794 metres. The views were extensive and great. To the east lay the Comeraghs and beyond them Slievenamon and the Blackstairs could be seen. To the northwest, the Galtees stretched out and to the south the coastline of east Cork and Waterford gleamed like silver. It was a beautiful day but it was cold, and the strong biting wind on top made it no place to linger, so I wasted no time in turning for the final top of the day Sugarloaf 662 metres over three kilometres away. The climb to the top warmed me up again and it was a straightforward descent from the top directly to the car. It had been a short outing of just eleven kilometres and almost 900 metres of ascent in just less than three hours.

From Sugarloaf towards The Galtees

Looking east from Knockmoylan

Monday January 8th;

After my climb on the Knockmealdowns on Saturday I went to Youghal for a spot of fishing. I had limited success but stuck at it till half past midnight. I then camped by the beach at Caliso bay and while it was quite cold, it was worth it to rise at dawn on Sunday and enjoy the sunrise while I shook the ice from my tent.

On Monday morning I decided to head west and enjoy the delights of the Dingle Peninsula. I checked myself in to the excellent Mount Brandon Hostel in Cloghane and decided that a hike up Bartregaum and Caherconree would be ideal as they were the nearest hills to me and I could then settle into the hostel before another fishing session at Fermoyle beach. 

Looking towards Beenoskee and Brandon

As the hike wouldn't be too big I didn't have too early a start and it was a leisurely 11.40 when I started off from the car. There was a little cloud clinging to the top but I was confident of enjoying great views on the way round. The route climbs the  the broad spur that descends from Baurtregaum North East Top. The hardest part of this is the initial steep climb up through long heather until you finally reach the crest after a punishing couple of hundred hard won metres. Now the going is a bit easier, as the ground is less steep, until an easement is reached at Scregg up over the 600 metre mark. I should say at this point that it was quite cold. The ground was frozen solid and out of the wind the temps were probably hovering at freezing. Throw in the stiff wind and things felt quite wintry indeed. Unfortunately the cloud had actually increased by now, and by the 700 metre contour I was enveloped in the mist and all views were gone.

Add in the wind and it felt very wintry indeed.

Glad to be lower...looking towards Fenit.

I was still enjoying myself. By the time I reached the broad stony summit 850mtrs), things had taken on frozen look, as all the rocky were coated in hoare frost. The wind was quite strong by now so I didn't delay before setting off towards the next top of the round Caherconree at 837 metres. There is a drop of 150 metres to reach the wide col and down here I was briefly under the cloud. Dingle Bay could be seen below me, and it gleamed silver in the low sun. I was soon on the very nice ridge that rises towards Caherconree and before long I could see the cairn loom out of the mist. The wind was now very strong indeed and I was at times being blown sideways as I curved around the rim of the corrie. I suspect it was a combination of lack of concentration, the mist, and the very strong wind, but I somehow contrived to do a complete 180 turn, and walk in entirely the wrong direction back past the cairn, and down the wrong side of the mountain. I descended to about the 700 metre contour and once again emerged under the cloud and I knew that I had gone very wrong. I had of course neglected to bring a map and compass, but I knew the lay of the land, and I climbed to once again reach the summit of Caherconree, and this time I paid more attention to my route and descended correctly. The strong wind continued all the way down until I was back below the 300 metre contour. It was a super relief when it eased as I was getting quite cold, especially my hands as I only had light gloves on. All and all not my finest hour. 

12 kilometres; 1000 metres ascent in 4 hours. 

I returned to the car and continued west and a long warm shower and a change of clothes restored me. After having a bite to eat, I went and fished Fermoyle beach from 18.00 until 22.30. All I got was lumps of weed, one of which snapped my new rods tip section. Oh Dear.

Tuesday January 9th;

After a good nights sleep I emerged from the hostel to a beautiful crisp morning. Being ever the optimist, I went and spent an hour digging enough lugworm for another couple of fishing sessions, before returning to the hostel, and after another bite to eat I set off on my hike. I love being able to walk to the mountains from my accommodation, and when the views are as good as they are in Cloghane, even a few kilometres on the road is a pleasure.

Looking across to Beenoskee

If views like these don't entice then what will.

I decided that a climb up the steep spur that rises above Lough Avoonane and climbs to Gearhane, was the perfect way to reach the main ridge. This involves a four kilometre walk in along a quiet little lane, that extends to the end of the valley beneath Ballysitteragh. The views were just sublime as some wispy cloud played along the ridges and tops of the main ridge. Across the wide expanse of bog, the glories of the mountains from Slieveanea to Beenoskee we a delight. I was like a kid in a sweetshop.

Up the spur left of centre...Brandon Peak the highest point.

After leaving the road, a farm track rises to the lakeside, and once you cross the outflow, then the climbing begins. The next two kilometres are pretty unrelenting, and six hundred meters are gained. I was feeling strong and I kept up a nice steady pace. Once near the summit I was treated to the stunning scenery of the western side of the massif. There, Slea Head, the Blasket Islands, the Three Sisters and more, are laid out in a wonderful display that is rightly famous all over the world. There was also less wind today, and while it was still cold and breezy, it was easy to pause and take it all in. 

Towards Slea Head, The Blaskets and so much more.

Spectacular ridge to Brandon Peak

The ridge to Brandon..wearing its cap.

A nice airy walk from Gearhane and soon I reached Brandon Peak. This is a spectacular place and I enjoyed a couple of minutes here before setting off towards Mount Brandon itself. The next three kilometres were a delight and I kept to the rim of the ridge the whole way. This added a bit of climbing to the route but it was worth it. I was able to enjoy the views of the spectacular northeast face of the mountain the whole way. As is so often the case, a cap of cloud covered the summit, but this didn't take from the experience, and I was soon back under it as I continued past the top. The drop into the spectacular coum below the Faha Ridge was straightforward and soon I was walking along the track that shirts around the shoulder of Binn Faiche and descends easily back to the village. It was a simple joy for every step. Frozen frosted cliffs descended to icy little lakes and below and across the valley lay Cloghane bay and Beenoskee. The route ends literally across the road from the hostel and it was lovely to walk in and shower and change the clothes in the warmth. 

Down below the summit into the coum. Faha ridge on the left.

I went fishing once again later on to the beach near Brandon Pier. While there was no disaster like a broken rod, all that was on offer from the fishing was lots of tiny whiting. Still it kept me entertained for a few frigid hours.

The hike had been wonderful. I had covered about 18 kilometres, climbed 1400 metres in 5 hours 15 minutes.

Tuesday January 10th;

Beenoskee beckons

Well if I thought the previous morning was good then this morning was just about perfect. There wasn't a cloud in the sky and not a puff of breeze to disturb the perfection. The tide was out and even the shoreline seaweed was frosted. I decided to head to Beenoskee this morning. After checking out of the hostel I drove the few kilometres to the start of my chosen route, which started at the junction of the Cloghane-Connor Pass road. There is parking here for several cars and the route ends right there.

Glorious. In Glenahoo valley at the start of the climb. Beenbo beyond.

Leaving the car...The Brandon Massif.

It was 09.30 when I left the car and set off along the road for the almost three kilometre walk before I could exit and begin to climb towards the beautiful Glenahoo valley under the western slopes of the mountain. This road can be quite busy in the tourist season but on this frosty January Tuesday I only had a couple of cars to spoil the silence. After turning off the road you follow a farm track into the valley until just after a plantation of forestry you begin the climb to Binn an Tuair 592mtrs. This 500 metre climb is unremitting and only gets steeper until finally the broad summit slopes arrive. Despite it being minus 2 starting off I was sweating heavily before too long. My legs were feeling the effects of yesterdays outing, but I managed to keep up a decent pace but it was a big relief to the top. Now the going was easy across the frozen bog and before long I was on top of An Com Bán 610 metres. The view from here to the Maherees is great. After a short descent the remaining 250 metre climb to Beenoskee passes quite well. It was a delight to rest a little while on this excellent airy summit. Situated as it is in the heart of the peninsula, the views to both Caherconree and of course Brandon are superb. To the north the Maherees jut out into Tralee bay and to the south Dingle bay cuts inland and the mountains of the Iveragh peninsula stretch away.

Summit views....towards The Reeks

Towards Brandon

The Maherees

Towards Caherconree and the Slieve Mish

I didn't delay for long though, as up here the calm air of the valley was replaced by a frigid breeze, so I turned and headed down to the wide basin of bog that stretches for six kilometres towards Slievanea. After losing over 300 metres I reached somewhat flatter ground. Normally the pitted and rutted bog is very wet but today it was merely pitted and rutted so traversing the frozen ground was a little easier. Once I crossed the fledgling river called Abha Mhacha na Bó at the 300 metre contour somewhat easier ground is reached for the climb to reach Beenbo at 477 metres. This is an excellent spot to survey what you have done so far but I turned without delay and headed towards the nearby Slievenagower at 486 metres. Once down, a track that skirted the flanks of the mountain proved too tempting, so I forwent the summit and instead headed for my final top of the day, Slievenalecka at 458 metres. I crossed the river that flows from the triumvirate of lakes that nestle at the end of the valley and climbed the final 130 metres to the top. What a gorgeous eerie this place is. To the left the cliffs of Slievanea drop to the beautiful Loch Chom Callain, and nestled below and to the right Lough Adoon looked equally good. I sat here and ate a late-ish lunch before beginning my descent. One word of caution here. The initial forty or so metres are very steep and do require some caution. The ground is good but a slip would be very painful at best. The difficulties are soon over and thereafter easy ground stretches to beyond Lough Adoon and the going is easy. I dropped down to the outlet of the lake and there is a track that runs from there all the way to the road. When I reached the lake side I was surprised and delighted to see an eagle fly past me coming from the end of the lake. I watched its serene passage as it headed out the valley and it just put a wonderful seal on the day. The last kilometre and a half passed easily and I arrived back at the car before 3pm. 

Lunchtime view...towards Slievanea

Looking back over Lough Adoon

Balmy back near the car.

It had been another wonderful day out. I covered 19 kilometres, climbed 1350 metres in 5 hours 20 minutes.

So, over the three days I had covered much of the main mountain areas of the peninsula. Each had been different and challenging for different reasons but the one thing they had in common was the majesty and beauty of the scenery. The Dingle Peninsula is special.