Monday 28 October 2019

4 Days in Glorious Connemara

After a very nice family trip to the Riviera and the Mercantour National Park in the south of France it was back to more familiar landscapes for me again. As I still had a week left before I had to return to work I decided to head to Connemara for a four day break just a day after returning home.
First a few words on the France trip. We flew into Nice and enjoyed the delights of this beautiful vibrant city for a couple of days before hiring a car and enjoying the delights of the wonderful mountain villages and mountain scenery of the Mercantour National Park. Our hotel in Nice was right by the airport but the new tram to the city centre makes getting around really easy. One of the highlights for me was getting up each morning and running along the wonderful Promenade des Anglais at dawn before going for a refreshing swim in the warm waters. It was a wonderful way to start each day. We drove up into the surrounding hills and saw several villages perched atop rock bluffs and exploring their myriad convoluted alleys and little shops was a delight. Personally though I found them a little too touristy and I preferred the slightly down at heel charm of Gilette, St Martin Vesubie and Sospel more. People lived in these dark alleys and it was an authentic and charming experience to explore these places. We got a terrific thunderstorm on our second night and morning in the mountains and this created some difficulty in driving as rockfall and some landslides occurred. At one point we just pulled over off the road during a particularly torrential spell of rain and while waiting some spatters of mud and water started to hit the window of the car as a new rivulet of run off started. Thankfully I was able to move the car out of the way and I feared it was just the precursor of a much bigger slip but it came to nothing and soon the weather cleared and we were back in Mediterranean weather once again. It did mean however that the following day out access to a high mountain road where the full glory of the highest in the park could be enjoyed was still blocked by a landslide. At St Martin Vesubie I went for a run up through the village and along a trail to above the town before returning into the village and back to our accommodation and it was a bit surreal to realize that some of what I had run I had walked a couple of years before as part of the Gr52A route. That time I was completely enchanted by the autumn colour in the forests and I had hoped that Margaret would get to see this for herself on this trip but I guess we were too early. Still it gives us an excuse to return.
The wonderful Promenade des Anglais in Nice

who is going to be top cat



CONNEMARA

Friday October 18th;

I must be getting old. My enthusiasm for another trip was not great as I guess i was still a little fatigued after the French trip and the weather for the weekend was, while okay, not riviera standsrds either. I prevaricated during the morning as to whether I would go or not. Then I oscillated between a hotel, hostel or camping stay until finally deciding to take my trusty Terra Nova Voyager tent and head to the wonderful Clifden Eco Beach campsite. A flurry of last minute packing meant it was nearly 12.30 by the time I finally left for the long (265 kilometre) drive into the wild west. Heavy downpours marked the first hour of the trip but as I got further beyond Limerick then it became much much better and suddenly I was really looking forward to the trip.
The long drive was uneventful and eventually I pulled in to the wild and wonderful campsite that as the name suggests is right beside a beautiful beach. Once I had  checked in and my home was sorted I wasted no time in setting off on a run but it was still almost 17.30 by the time I began. Of course sods law meant that I almost immediately got drenched by a rogue shower which, considering it was just 11 or 12 degrees anyway meant it was while before I warmed up. I ran along the quiet lane right to the end of the headland and around a lake before retracing my route to the tent. It was a little longer than I had thought (over 16 kilometres) and it was getting quite dim by the time I got back but it felt great to be out and active in this wild and wonderful place.

Saturday October 19th;

One of the major attractions of Connemara is its mountains and today I planned is doing one of the finest walks in the country. The Owenglin Horseshoe is a big round in the Twelve Bens that takes in six main summits as well as a few other subsidiary tops so it is not to be taken lightly. The forecast for today was for rain in the morning before a clear in the afternoon. It had rained quite heavily during the night and there were still lots of showers on the go as I drove to the start of the route. I put on the full raingear and was on the move by 10.15. I opted to do the route in a clockwise direction today and as I had parked near the quarry at the end of the lane I was very shortly on the sodden boggy ground. The lower flatter ground was running with water but once I reached the steeper slopes heading towards the crest of the broad ridge it became easier to find better underfoot conditions. Once I reached the ridge new vistas opened up and to the west Tully mountain and Diamond Hill looked stunning . To make things even better, the weather was showing signs of improving as well. Some showers still dotted about but I stayed predominantly dry. The tops were mostly free from cloud as well so I was  able to enjoy these wonderful mountain views throughout.



First up in the way of main tops comes Maumonght. This is up over 600 metres but has a big feel as low ground lies in all directions except east. In that direction three more mountains stood proud before the cloud capped Benbaun provided the turning point. The dropship and consequent climbs are substantial so by the time I reached the summit of Benbaun I had climbed over 1000 metres. One rather sad encounter I had was with a blind sheep on the summit of Benfree. It stood facing me as I approached before fleeing uncertainly in random, sometimes circular bursts. I could see its milky eyes and I didn't fancy its chances given the nature of the terrain and of course the approaching winter.  On a more positive note the weather continued to improve and the odd ray of sunshine added to the glory of the views. After Benbaun I descended to the low gap below Benfree not and enjoyed a bite to eat in this wonderful spot. The true rugged majesty of these mighty little mountains is fully realised here and I believe that metre for metre there is nothing to compare with The Bens in these islands.










After my repast I climbed to the rugged rocky convoluted ridge and here the full extent of that other great round on these hills the Glencoaghan Horseshoe is fully revealed. On top of all that there views south over Benlettery and beyond to Roundstone Bog and the chaotic mix of lake, sea and bog near Carna was stunning. One final big drop and climb saw me on Bengower before I dropped, turned and climbed over Bengliniskey before descending easily down to the road and back to the car. The sun had long since won the battle for supremacy and it was now after crisp beautiful autumn day. I arrived back at the car quite delighted with my day. Such a quality outing had made the long journey well worth the effort.
I returned to the campsite and despite the lateness in the year I decided to chance a dip in the sea. Despite it being a chilly 12 degrees I was hopeful that the sea still had some residual hear from the summer...I was wrong. I managed only a few paces into the chill waters before my legs started to pain so an ignominious and rapid retreat ensued. I guess the sea will still be there next July.


Sunday October 20th;

Today was supposed to be the best weather day of the weekend so I decided to go for a cycle. Mind you it was a little bit of a disappointment to emerge to less than a blue sky morning and some rain was still to be seen and there was a stiff chilly breeze. My plan was to head through Cleggan, onto Letterfrack before pedaling through the wonderful Inagh Valley and returning via Clifden. If I was feeling super good I might extend the trip by including Roundstone and Ballyconeely. I put on plenty of clothes and I set off into the wild countryside along the damp quiet lanes. After Cleggan I turned inland and after passing a lake, beyond which the mountains looked great, I joined the main road and turned towards Letterfrack. It was at times tough going when I was into the wind but I was in no hurry and I was enjoying the ever wilder scenery as I went. Beyond the chocolate box pretty Kylemore Abbey and lake I turned into the incomparable Inagh Valley which runs between the Twelve Bens and the Maumturk Mountains. I was really looking forward to this section and it was made all the sweeter as the wind was now at my back.


If you are going to go for a cycle it might as well be somewhere like this
The mountains were at times getting a good drenching from frequent showers and they looked all the more spectacular for that. I enjoyed the entire passage and eventually I reached the main road again and turned for Clifden. As the last section had been down wind I wasn't feeling too bad so I decided to head for Roundstone and so extend the trip. By the time I reached the pretty seaside village I was perhaps regretting my enthusiasm but a nice coffee and chocolate biscuit eased the hardship. I wasn't feeling too bad when I recommenced and the wild open land and sea views were delightful. At least that was until I got about half way to Ballyconneely when I once again turned into the wind and my fatigue was back in force as I struggled to make headway. I was into the wind most of the way back and it is fair to say that I was well and truly spent by the time I eventually reached the campsite. It had taken me 4 hours 40 minutes (including breaks) to complete the 62 miles and there had been some 800 metres of ascent. I was a quiet  boy for the rest of the evening and after a shower it was straight into my sleeping bag for a long sleep.

The GPS died.
Monday October 21st;

I was heading home today but before the long drive I wanted to get one more hillwalk in. A few hours on the Maumturks would fit the bill nicely. It was a gorgeous morning and the wonderful landscape was looking its splendid best as I drove to the carpark below Mauméan. The route I opted for was to climb the section between Mauméan and Maumahoge which traverses the highest in the range, the rather oddly named Binn idir an dá Log. I left the car shortly after 10 am and headed up the easy track towards the pass. In my rush to leave home I had forgotten to bring a lock for my bike so I felt it was vulnerable to being taken as it was just tied onto the rack on the back of the car. I tried to dismiss my fears but they continued to nag me throughout. Aside from that the outing was great. The long steep pull to Binn Chaonaigh (633 metres) seemed to go on and on. Just when you are sure the top is near you crest a steep bit and more is revealed. That said, when you finally reach the large flat area at the top the effort is so well worth it. The ground is now wonderfully rocky and the views aren't bad either. Across the Inagh Valley the Bens looked great but there is so much more to see. Lough Corrib stretched into the distance in the west and to the north Joyce Country and the Mayo mountains look wonderful. To the south the silvered sea stretched to infinity and Carna and Roundstone still looked great. The way ahead is rather serpentine and after a 100 metre drop the ridge rises gradually until finally you reach the wild summit of Binn idir dá Log.







I didn't delay and I took a direct line northwest to the easier ground far below and then I crossed the boggy ground until I reached the road. This I followed for the few kilometres back to the car. I had myself completely convinced that my bike would be gone so I was delighted to see everything was as I left it when I arrived. I sat in the sunshine and enjoyed my lunch before setting off on the long journey home. It had been a fitting end to the trip.
Just about 11 kilometres 860 metres ascent in 3 hours.


  

Thursday 3 October 2019

The Quiet Side Of The MacGillycuddy Reeks

Yesterday I decided to get another fix of the wonderful range that is the MacGillycuddy Reeks but this time I went to the "secret side" in search of relative peace and quiet.
I don't often venture onto the Reeks from this side for a couple of reasons...one it is a long awkward drive to reach the trailhead that adds considerable time to the trip and two, this road can be a nightmare to get through when the leeches, sorry I mean Jarveys are plying their "trade" and during the tourist season when too many cars can be met en-route. Now however things are getting quieter so I drove back and parked by the sheep pens not far from the end of the road and set off. A long tricky drive it may be but the effort is so well worth it. I suppose I should describe the drive a bit first. From Killarney go to Kate Kearneys Cottage and then drive through the beautiful Gap of Dunloe. Continue down into the Black Valley and turn right before you reach the little church. This super narrow lane requires a little care and forget about the higher gears for the next six or seven kilometres. After a kilometre or so turn left and basically follow this road to near its end. The drive is beautiful and really there is no point in trying to rush it. Take your time and savour the journey into some of the finest mountain scenery to be found in these islands. When you finally exit the car you feel very small as here, you are surrounded by the mountains which rise steeply all around.
Broaghnabinnea looms nearby

Up ro the right after the house andn then straight ahead to skyline then up to right


Once on the crest the views back are lovely

A super easy start is enjoyed as you follow the road in as far as the farmstead before following the track up as far as the broody Curraghmore Lough which darkles under the cliffs of Caher. Cross the lake outflow and climb gently to the west across the bog towards a steep shallow gully that faces you on the spur that descends from Caher. This provides a straightforward way to access the crest of the spur. Left of the gully a ramp rises up through a broken buttress and at the top of this some grassy scrambling is to be found. This was the way I opted to go this morning and it proved very enjoyable. It was a gorgeous morning with little or no breeze and clear skies. A thin layer of very high level cloud weakened the suns rays and ensured that there was a distinct chill in the air.As you gain height the views back only get better and better but it is when you crest the spur and the views in all directions are opened up that you have one of these "wow" moments. It is amazing what a slightly different perspective does for a view. Everywhere from the Beara Peninsula to the Dingle Peninsula is laid out before you and whatever direction you look mountain and sea nourish the spirit. Up here at over 800 metres there was a chill breeze but I had to linger and soak in the scenery. It is easy to follow the spur as it turns and heads for the third highest mountain in Ireland Caher (1003metres).

The Iveragh Peninsula continues on and on

Over Counloughra towards the Dingle Peninsula

Heading for Carrauntoohil The East Reeks beyond

The narrow crest of this mountain offers unrivaled views down into Coumloughra and it is very enjoyable to stick to the airy crest as you head towards Carrauntoohil. Once off Caher the slog to the summit of Carrauntoohil is a bit of a chore but soon enough I was enjoying the stunning panorama from the top. It was blessedly quiet as well and none of the hoards of high season were in evidence ( but perhaps I was just there before they arrived). I then dropped to the top of the Devils Ladder before climbing Cnoc na Toinne. The half kilometre or so walk along the flat top of this mountain is one of my favourite parts of the Reeks. Here you are below the higher tops and Caher and the east face of Carrauntoohil look superb while the coums and crest of the East Reeks invite you on. I next climbed the near 200 metres to the summit of Cnoc an Cuillin where, while enjoying my lunch, I decided to continue on the ridge as far as Cnoc na Péiste (988 metres) before retracing my steps to where I could descend towards Brassil and then my car. This added perhaps another 200 metres ascent to the day but it was worth it just to be able to stay high on the ridge for a while longer on a day such as this. The descent is easy with long stretches of grassy soft ground that eases the strain on the knees etc. As is usual it seemed to get much warmer as I went down and it felt balmy once back at the car. I wasn't in any rush to get changed once back down and I lingered in this wild and wonderful place and enjoyed the afterglow of a great outing. I must return here again soon...perhaps when snow covers the tops...winter is coming.
15 Kilometres...1550 metres ascent...5 hours 20 mins
Into the Brida Valley...nice

Across the Hags Glen
The wonderful Conc na Péiste Ridge



Friday 27 September 2019

Millstreet to Knocklomena. A 4 Day Hike on the Cork And Kerry Mountains

I have long held the ambition, of doing a five or six day hike from Millstreet (not too far from my home), to the sea at the western end of the Iveragh Peninsula and crossing over the mountain tops en-route. I didn't have the required time at my disposal, this time, to finish the route, but I had the most of four days, so I resolved to start on Friday afternoon, and just see how far I would get. I was being picked up by Margaret on Monday afternoon and we were commencing a holiday in the delightful village of Sneem.
The forecast was pretty good as well so I was really looking forward to the trip.

Friday September 13th;
Starting up the wooded slopes of Claragh

I had all my packing already done, so it was simply a case of leaving work and going home to collect my bag, before Margaret drove me to Millstreet, where I could start my hike. It was 15.25 when I left the car, so I had only about four hours of trekking time before I would have to fine a spot for my tent for night one. My plan was simple, climb Claragh mountain, before then heading to Caherbarna, and just see how far I would get. Now at just 452 metres Claragh isn't too demanding, and indeed it is one of my favourite trails to run, but with a rucksack fully laden with my camping equipment, food etc, running wasn't in the plan today. It was a beautiful weather day. Blue skies, warm sunshine and not a puff of wind, made for very very pleasant hiking. After walking up the shady wooded lane at the start, I turned into the forest track that leads to the open mountain. After a level traverse there is a stiff climb to reach the summit. It doesn't last too long, and soon I was enjoying the wide expansive views. The agricultural land stretched away to the north, east, and west. I could also see the continuance of the walk and the broad ridge that curved away towards Caherbarna. It didn't look too far, but previous experience told me that appearances can be deceptive, and I knew that there was a good distance to cover to reach it. So, with time being in short supply, I wasted no time in setting off on the next leg of the trek.
Slopes to Claragh summit

Millstreet
 A couple of kilometres of easy walking follows, before you cross a little road, and start to climb up towards Curracahill. Once on the flat top, the problems of the next section become apparent. While from a distance, it seems that you can take a direct line towards the higher top of Gortaveghy, once you reach this point, it is clear that you have to do a wide traverse around a deep wild glen, and this traverse crosses wet trackless bog that is no bargain. It isn't too bad though, and once you reach the slopes that stretch up to Gortaveghy, the going becomes easier underfoot. The giant wind turbines that cover the expanse of bog and forestry to the south, were completely still in the windless evening, and they stood like silent sentinels from "War of the Worlds". I was totally enjoying the whole experience. It felt great to be on another mini adventure. Once back on the crest of the ridge, it is easy going to reach Caherbarna. I was pleased with my progress, and I was now confident I would reach a camping spot I used several years before, which nestles in the boggy pass between Caherbarna NW Top and Knocknabro NE Top. This tiny patch of short dry grass, beside a stream, was a fortunate find at that time, as everything all around is super rough and wet and really unsuitable for the tent. I found my spot and dropped my bag at 19.35 so it had taken almost exactly four hours. I was well content with the first day's effort.
Towards Caherbarna from Claragh

Not producing much power today

Looking west not long before my first camp
Day 1--4 hours--14 kilometres--827 metres up--494 down.

Saturday September 14th;
About the only little spot for a tent for a fair way around. Leaving no trace

The giant TV mast on Mullaghanish
The weather forecast for today was for a sunny, warm, calm day, and it certainly was a lovely morning to emerge into. I enjoyed a midge free breakfast, and I was on the move once again just before 8am. A gentle rise up and over the broad boggy slopes of Knocknabro NE top, and the main summit followed. The views across the deep gap the glory of The Paps was lovely, and the vista to the west was also a delight. The Reeks stood guard beyond Killarney and Lough Leane, and Mangerton's broad summit plateau resembled a sleeping whale. I have, in the past, descended into the gap, by heading towards the lake in the valley. This had quite a bit of long heather and bouldery ground, (not my favourite), so this morning, I took a line more to the left towards some forestry. This proved much better, except for the final fifty metres or so, which was quite rough. It was calm and warm down in the gap, and I was certainly warm as I climbed up the steep, near 400 metre climb to the summit of the East Pap. Finally I reached the summit and enjoyed the wonderful views to the west, but only after I had put on my jacket, as up here the wind was strong and carried a chill. I continued on over the West Pap, and then set off in a direct line west towards the semi hidden glen, that contained a road that led to near the village of Glenflesk. This was across nearly six kilometres of mostly pathless, rough wet bog, that at times made for challenging progress, but eventually, I reached some grassy paddocks and then reached the lane. This was a delight, as in gently descended through shady hazel woods, in which a tumbling stream provided soothing music. Once I reached the main road, I had to walk about 600 metres to reach the village, but this is quite safe, as there is a hard shoulder all the way, so no traffic comes too near.
A nice morning for it


The giant cairn of the East Pap


Straight on to Glenflesk with Crohane and Mangerton beyond
Once I reached the village, (just a crossroads with a church and shop really), I enjoyed a bite to eat and some coffee before setting off on the next leg of the trip. This had been presenting me with some anxiety, as there is no normal route to the summit of Crohane from here. I asked in the shop about access to the mountain, but they didn't know, so I just winged it. I walked a further 100 metres along the road, crossed a couple of grassy fields, before going through a fenced ditch. Now I was entering open boggy ground once again. I had seen from afar, a track rising up through the expansive bracken that covered the slopes, and I aimed for this, and things worked out beautifully. I was able to easily reach the broad spur that leads all the way to the 650 metre summit. As I rose higher, the rough valley to the left, was wild and beautiful, and it was lovely to get a good look at another facet of this beautiful mountain. It was a near 600 metre climb to the summit, but I felt good, and after enjoying the airy views, I set off towards Bennaunmore and the Capagh Glen. A nice downward traverse around to Crohane SW Top, before a steep 200 metre descent to the narrow gap on the north side of Lough Nabroda. Next comes the steep 200 metre climb, up the shallow gully that leads up to near the summit of Bennaunmore. This is a real leg burner, but once you reach the delightful summit, then the effort is well worth it. This wild spot is a great eerie, with views over Lough Guitane and beyond, and below lies the wonderful Cappagh Glen. The descent to the glen isn't long but it does descend some rough ground, particularly near the bottom. As I descended, I contemplated whether I would camp in the glen or continue on up towards Stoompa, for perhaps another hour. It was still just 1600 and there was plenty of daylight left and I was feeling pretty good. However when I reached the glen, I immediately spotted a camping spot of such quality, that I just couldn't pass it by. A level, dry, green oasis, alongside a stream that was sheltered from any breeze, yet enjoyed full sunshine, was the stuff of dreams so I immediately dropped my bag. To make things even better, it was practically midge free, so I was able to sit in peace in the sun, right into the evening, and simply enjoy the peace and joy of this special place. Later I had visits from deer and owls, and I have to say it was one of the best wild camps I have ever enjoyed.
The way up Crohane




The Reeks looking wonderful

The way ahead..down left to hump on centre left..down and up gully on Bennaunmore..Capagh Glen beyond
Lough Nabroda

Basalt columns on Bennaunmore

Looking down into the glen

It really doesn't get much better


Day 2--8 hours 20 mins--20 Kilometres--1565 metres up--1855 metres down

Sunday September 15th;

After a peaceful night I emerged to a still humid morning. The weather was to change a bit today, with cloud forecast, and the possibility of light rain. I could already see that some low mist drifted on the higher slopes, and the air held the promise of rain. I should qualify the stillness claim, by adding that the midges, that were absent yesterday, were back in force, and lets just say I regret emerging from my tent without the protection of a full set of clothes😳. The buggers were abundant and in biting form, and breakfast and break camp were done indoors.
I was on the move by 7.45 and setting off up towards the wooded glen that rose to the open ground higher up. The first rays of sunshine were hitting the mist tendrils, and mini rainbows decorated the edges. It was, at times, magical. Today promised to be a challenging day. I was heading for Molls Gap, and I was under no illusions as to the difficulty of the ground that had to be covered. A fair few years ago, I walked from Mangerton to Molls Gap with Killarney Mountaineering Club, and was impressed by the wild and rugged nature of the ground. I remember at the time noting that it would be very difficult to navigate in bad conditions. I was looking forward to the challenge. The weather, I felt, could go either way. The drifting patches of misty cloud could coalesce into a cloud base, or as I hoped, gradually burn off once the sun hit them. I was enjoying myself for now, and to be fair, once I was enveloped in the mist on the open mountain slopes, things took on a mystical quality and this I really enjoyed. Once I neared Stoompa I once again emerged into the clear, and from there to the higher slopes above the Horses Glen, I was able to enjoy those beautiful views. Unfortunately once I neared the summit of Mangerton I was once again in the cloud. Then it was a case of map and compass out, and taking a bearing, to ensure I set off in the correct direction.
Looking out the glen

There is moisture in the mist

Leaving the glen



Maybe it might actually clear up ??...ah no Ted
It had taken me 3 hours to reach the summit of Mangerton, and I knew that it would still take a fair old while to cover the remaining kilometres to Molls Gap, but I wasn't too worried, as I had all I needed on my back. Wet, trackless, but easy bog, was the norm for the next couple of kilometres, until I finally re-emerged under the mist. It seemed easiest to continue towards the small lake ahead, but when the mist lifted a little bit higher, I could see I was a few hundred metres below the ridge line, so I turned and returned to the crest. I could briefly see the ground ahead, as I was just at the level of the cloud base...drifting in and out of the haze.It made the jumble of hill, bog, and many little lakes, look lovely and interesting. Alas, that was the end of any views I had, and the clouds got denser and dropped lower. For the rest of the day I was enveloped in the mist. As I alluded to, the ground ahead, is a complex mix of lake, bog, rock and peaks, and on a good day is a challenge. In the mist, it offers a very difficult navigational and route finding challenge, and it is fair to say, I was fully absorbed for the next (almost) seven hours.
Yes I did say seven hours, as that is how long it took me to reach my camping spot for the night...and that was still short of Molls Gap. I made some errors in navigation, and sometimes, I endured crossing  horrendous ground, in the effort of trying to regain, or stay, on roughly the correct course. In the mist, drops can look long and severe and so can the ascents. They usually aren't as long as they first seem, but the steepness is still to be respected. Several times I reached a summit, and no obvious descent route could be seen. A compass bearing would head to a severe drop, but a search usually found a way, but then it becomes more difficult to return to the correct route. Lakes were usually the best markers en route, but they were not always easy to see, and they could be hidden by ribs of rock, and be just a few metres away. From the top of Knockrower there was a semi respite from the route finding, as I could take a more or less direct line towards Coumeenslaun Lake, but no respite was to be found in the roughness and wetness of the ground. It wasn't until I was down by the lake that I was under the cloud, but all I could see was the lake and the steep ground rising beyond, that led to Knockanaguish.
Back up in the mist, this mountain presented a seemingly impregnable buttress, but as I reached the buttress, I could see a possible way to to top up a steep, narrow, vegetated ramp. I decided to give this a go. Almost immediately it presented more difficulty than first appeared, as the ramp itself sloped downwards, steeply, at the narrowest points. I pushed on, but at about two thirds the way up I reached a notch, hidden from below, which had a ten foot drop beyond with a climb on the other side. This presented a step too far for me, so I reluctantly turned, and gingerly retreated to the base of the buttress. I looked on the right hand side of the crag, and lo and behold, a simple way to the top was found. It was stuff like this that ate up the time. Another drop saw me reach the "Windy Gap" where the Old Kenmare Road crosses the route, before another straightforward climb saw me reach Peakeen. Once again, the route finding problems presented themselves, but finally I reached Eirk Lough, which sits under the final peak before the Gap. I had thought (hoped) I might mind somewhere by the lake to camp, but that notion was quickly dashed, as it was clear that the water was completely surrounded by extremely boggy, rough grassy ground, that indeed presented difficulties in reaching the waters edge so that I could fill up my water bottles. Now, fully laden with enough water for the rest of the night, I resolved to pitch my tent at the first available opportunity. Thankfully I found a rough but flat spot just after the summit of Derrygarrif which sufficed, and I wasted no time in getting my home up for the night. It was after 6pm. I was able to store my sodden gear in the tent, (the mist often turned to drizzle and wading through waist high wet vegetation left little dry,) and once changed, I was soon getting dinner on the go. I was as tired mentally as physically and it felt great to finally relax. It had been a full on day.
Approaching the rough stuff


Camping spot for night 3...These 3 pics are the sum total of what was taken for last seven hours

Day 3--10 hours 20 minutes--24 kilometres+--1800 metres up--1500 metres down.

Monday September 16th;

 The morning came slowly, and with it, it brought more cloud and mist. It was calm, the rain had stopped, and the forecast promised improving conditions in the afternoon. Despite the gloomy conditions, I was not downbeat, as today, Margaret was meeting me on the Sneem road, and we were commencing a five day break in the excellent Sneem Hotel and apartments. I was really looking forward to a power shower, fine food, and a cool beer. I knew that the distance I would be able to travel, in the time available to me, was limited, so I enjoyed a leisurely start, and it was nearly 9am before I was on the move. Mist blanketed everything, but it was fairly straightforward to reach the road..or so I had hoped. I descended to the left a little too early, and I found myself going down a 45 degree grassy gully, where I managed to slip and have a rather rapid fall. The slick grass meant I immediately started  to gain speed, but thankfully, a rock intervened early enough to stop me, and my rucksack took the force. Chastened, and a bit pissed off, I reached the road not long after, and even down here, I was still in the clag. I opted to walk along the road as far as Barfinihy Lake, from where I could climb my next peak Boughil. As I passed Molls Gap, I exited the fog, and misty views into the valley on the right, and fleeting glimpses of the slopes ahead, gave me hope that the better weather might just be arriving.
Finally some views..into the Black Valley

Towards Boughil


Normally when I climb Boughil, I do so via the steep gully in the face of the slopes behind the lake, but this morning, I chose to climb the more gentle northeast spur, which leads directly to the summit. After the very testing conditions of yesterday, this proved to be a very simple and enjoyable climb. All the more so, as the cloud was inclined to disperse more and more as I rose. Once I reached the top I was even able to see the route ahead to the next top, Cnoc na gCapall. The going is again easy and this was just the ticket after yesterday. After this the clearances became longer, and soon I had to "endure" some warm sunshine. It was a pure, uplifting, delight. Next up came Bascadh and more easy walking across to the the west top, before descending into the valley under Knocklomena. Now I had a choice to make. I could walk from here down to the road, and the rendezvous point with Margaret, or I could rush, and try to climb Knocklomena, and descend from there. I was was feeling strong, and frankly, could have kept going for hours yet, but I reckoned that things would have been very tight, time wise. As the day was now so good, I opted instead to have a dip in the beautiful Lough Fadda, that nestled under the steep flanks of Knocklomena. The water was certainly bracing, but it felt great after four days on the trail. It was then a simple thing to descent, along first, a rough farm track, and then a quiet country lane, to reach the road. The next several days promised warm sun and an Indian summer and this proved to be the case...Life is good.



There are few things more uplifting than when the mists clear

Looks inviting no?


Day 4--5 hours--14 kilometres--650 metres up--1100 metres down.

It had been a great wee adventure. Over the four days, I hadn't seen another person while on the mountains. I hadn't had the time to complete the journey as far as the sea, but I now feel confident, that if I had five full days, I would be able to complete the full traverse. It would make, I believe, one of the finest multi day outings in these islands. Variations could be done in the middle by heading to the Reeks from Mangerton instead of Molls Gap, and towards the end, you could opt to head towards Glenbeigh or Waterville. Whichever was is chosen, a superb quality outing would be guaranteed.