Thursday 1 September 2011

Mount Brandon Bivvy

From Brandon Head towards Benoskee
On Monday I decided on a whim to head for my favourite mountain massif in Ireland and pointed the car for Mount Brandon. In recent days for some reason I had been a bit down and was lethargic and  unenthusiastic about the outdoors. Even on the road back I was doubting my decision and I was not really looking forward to the trip. As the weather was set fair I had decided to pack the bivvy bag and food for a day and make an over-nighter of it. In keeping with my mood I actually didn't arrive in Cloghane until 13.30. I intended to traverse the full ridge so that meant that a 5mile road walk was needed to get to Brandon Head from where the walk proper would start. Now road walks are not something that I generally enjoy but this time on this day in this place it was magic. The narrow lanes were a riot of colour. Fuschia, montbretia, meadowsweet and much more were carpeting the hedgerows. This, coupled with the glorious views and clear blue skies was just what the doctor ordered and I found that I was enjoying myself immensely. As I neared Brandon head I was delighted to see a pod of common Dolphins moving along just offshore. This was just wonderful to see and raised the already great spirits even more.
Dolphins down below
Rocky shore and blue skies



The beautiful An Sas

After a nice rest looking down at the Dolphins I left the road behind and headed on to the open mountain and headed in the direction of An Sas. This was still about 5K away and on the was I followed a stream down an glen to the rocky cliffs below. This meant that I lost an unnecessary 200mtrs of height but I was determined to approach this trip in a leisurely fashion and the beauty of the blue sea crashing onto the shore more than made up for it. I continued up the ridge, keeping the sea in view the whole way. Eventually I reached the wonderful amphitheatre that is An Sas. This sunken Coum is a two thirds circle that sweeps over a thousand feet down to the sea. It never fails to inspire and I felf I made the right decision to stop and have a bite to eat here. So rested and refreshed I gloried in the airy walk around the cliff edge and headed down to the col under Masatiompan. I wasn't looking forward to the 450meter slog to the summit but on this day nothing was going to spoil the mood. Eventually I gained the rounded summit and now the vista changed again. As well as the georgous views to the north and east I could now gaze down to the magnificent panorama that streatches from Slea Head and the Blasket Islands away south over the Iveragh Peninsula and beyond.

Slea Head and the Blasket Islands

Sunset


Sunset
 It was now after six in the evening and was time to search for my home for the night. I chose the nearby Parias Mor as there was a trickle of water to be found about 100mtrs away and the view from there wasn't bad either. I really enjoyed my dinner and wasn't bothered too much by the midges. My biggest problem was deciding where to look and I was constantly turning to enjoy the varied vistas. After grub I settled down to enjoy the stunning sunset and it didn't dissappoint. All too soon it was time for bed. I had left my sleeping bag at home but was fairly confident that with my belay jacket I would be warm enough. It was a mistake. As darkness engulfed me and I was confined in the bivvy bag it grew colder and colder. Eventually after midnight I put on my hard shell and put my boots on as well. This helped a little but the chill ensured that I didn't get any sleep. Still there were compensations. When I turned to one side the few lights that sprinkled the Ballyferriter area and the faint lights from trawlers at sea were to be seen. On the other side the lights of Tralee and the other nearby towns reminded one that civilisation was not far away. Straight above the sky was a carpet of stars. Still eventually the night passed and I rose to a perfect dawn.


Dawn over Tralee Bay
Rosy glow on Mount Brandon
I didn't tarry as I was anxious to get going and warm up so I was packed up and on the move at 06.30. Soon the light show that was the sun rising over tralee bay was inspiring the soul and as I approached Mount Brandon its east face was bathed in a rosy glow. I was now warm and moving well. No aches and pains were in evidence after yesterdays exertions and it felt great to be out on the mountain and have the whole place to myself. I was now on familiar ground and the ridge passed in comfortable relaxation. After Brandon Peak the nature of the terrain changes again to a series of broad boggy saddles. Easy ground allowed the eyes to constantly scan the views and good progress was made. Another bite to eat was required around 10.30 and I was ready to push on across the Conair Pass. From here I went up Slieveanea. Down steeply to the rough ground above Coumanare and up to the sharp little peak of Slievenalecka. From here there is a short steep drop to a broad ridge and then down to Lock an Duin and enjoyed the views of the impressive waterfall under Slievenagower. A pleasent stroll along a good trail and another three kilometers on the road saw me back at the car. I was tired but well happy with the experience and most of all re-invigourated about the outdoors.



Fabulous and complex Barndon

Slievenalecka

Lock an Duin
 Day 1; 16K and 1100mtrs and Day2; 23K and 1200mtrs.

Thursday 25 August 2011

Great Burren Run


Waves breaking against the rocky shore
The setting sun.
On the spur of the moment I decided to head to the northwest of Clare and take part in the Great Burren Run. This is a half marathon that is held in the beautiful village of Fanore. I had never run a half marathon before so it was something of a trip into the unknown. So I packed my tent and headed off after work on Friday afternoon. It is about a hundred mile trip but it soon passed thanks to the new motorways that are all we have to show for the so called "Celtic Tiger". As I was nearing the Burren I was keeping my eyes open for a possible wild camping spot. Things weren't looking too good until I rounded a bend and there by the sea was a flat expanse of grass that several others were already camping on. I was able to use the car as a shelter from the stiff breeze and I had the tent up in no time. After a leisurely bite to eat I went for a little walkabout to explore my surroundings. It was a wonderful spot where the rough seas pounded the rocky shore and there was a constant thunder of breakers crashing against the nearby cliffs. A good nights sleep followed and I awoke to a beautiful calm sunny day. A good breakfast and a short stroll and I was ready to head for the run.

Unique and bleak landscape
Limestone pavement
The village of Fanore consists of no more than a pub, a shop, a cafe and a few houses. It is situated in a beautiful spot hard up against the sea and the rocky Burren rising gently behind. After registering for the run I warmed up by taking little jogs. They were expecting about 100 to take part and these were split between a half marathon and a 10K run. There was a great atmosphere before the start and the rousing sound of a ceili band blaring from loudspeakers saw some even practice some jiggy moves. Soon we were lined up at the start and we were off.

There was a bit of a mad dash from the start and the super fit and super ambitious set off at a fast pace. After just half a mile on the road we went off down a dirt track and from there on to a beach. The soft sand made for hard going but I didn't push it and concentrated on keeping in my comfort zone. From the beach we were up another track where we passed by a herd of Alpaca. Not too many of them to the square mile in this neck of the world. Anyway another short road section was followed by a stiff climb on a waymarked trail where 400ft was gained. Another road section for a couple of miles alongside a delightful little river and we were climbing again on a green road. This was a long steep climb where over 600ft was climbed. A long run along the top of the mountain afforded wonderful views which helped to take the mind off the aching body was finally followed by a long downhill section to the finish.

The beautiful Burren

Ancient Dolmen
 I managed to come in eight in 1hour 53mins. I guess my hill walking and occasional hill runs stood me in good stead and I seemed to suffer less on the uphill sections. Anyway I really enjoyed the route which was really varied and went through beautiful scenery. After several large glasses of water and soup and sandwiches  I was ready for the journey home. I came back a different way via Ballyvaughan and Corofin. This travelled right through the high Burren and gave a great flavour of the magic of the place. I stopped and had a look at the famous Dolmen near Ballyvaughan. This is a really impressive tomb which is all of 5000years old. I wonder how much the landscape has changed since then. I was well happy with my efforts and the trip and as I headed home I was already thinking of my next trip to the area which I vowed would not be too far in the future.

Tuesday 9 August 2011

Galtee Mountains Ridge


The Knockmealdowns looking lovely


Lough Muskry

 

James Moore and myself decided to do the Galtee Mountains Ridge today. As I was working nights, I decided to start out, straight after my shift. As James is in training for Gael Force, he felt he needed a big mountain day to boost his hill fitness. He suggested that we do the full Galtee ridge, and I readily agreed. We went for the minimalist approach, and decided to do it as a hill running exercise. We needed a car at each end, so I left my car at point 336mtrs Grid ref 889 197. James drove towards Cahir, and our biggest problem, was trying to find a track through the forestry, that would lead us out onto the open mountain. We drove out the Tipperary road, and initially, we couldn't find the track marked on the map. We asked a guy in a haulage yard, and he pointed us to an overgrown trail, that led up into the woods. We left the car at 08.15 and started up the trail. The gradient was quite easy, and we jogged along at a steady pace. Our biggest problem was one of route finding, and several false trails, lengthened considerably the time it took to gain access to open ground. Even then, we had to force our way newly planted forestry for about 500mtrs, which was very rough. All this meant that over an hour had passed before we reached our first top at point 449mtrs. We had at last gained the start of the ridge, and it was obvious that there was a very long way to go.


Towards Galtymore
The day was lovely, with clear skies, and the promised to stay dry and sunny. We set off for Slieveanard across rough heathery ground, but we soon had a good track to follow, which lasted until just under point 541mtrs, nearly 4 kilometers further on. We made good progress, and followed the broad twisting ridge to Feabreaga, and up to Greenane. Up until now each top was higher than the last, which meant that there was a fair amount of climbing involved, in order to make headway. Now, we were down hill for a kilometer, to the tor that is called O'Loughlans castle, and after a short rise, another near two kilometer downhill stretch follows, to the col under Galtybeg. A stiff 160mtr climb and the summit was ours, and we continued down to col above Lough Diheen, from where there is another 200mtr pull to the summit of Galtymore mountain. James was starting to realize just how ambitious his suggested route was, and his legs were starting to give him some problems. Still, he soldiered on, and we were soon down at the wall, that runs along the western section of the ridge, all the way to Lyracappul. This we followed, and despite some cramping up by James, we made reasonable time to this summit. Here a much needed rest was enjoyed, along with some energy bars.

Para glider

 

We were surprised to see a para glider over by Temple Hill. I have never seen one in our mountains, and they are a sight I associate more with Chamonix and the Alps. Still, he was enjoying good conditions, and was effortlessly gaining height on good thermals. He soon drifted in our direction, and we got a really close look at him. He drifted swiftly along the ridge in the direction of Galtymore. We loosened out seizing muscles, and commenced our jog down to the col under Temple Hill. There was no way we could rush the 185mtr climb to its summit, but we trudged gamely, and we were soon enjoying the panoramic views this top has to offer. It offers great views over towards Galtymore, and has a remote feel to it, as it is quite separate from the rest of the ridge. We didn't tarry long and we ran down the broad spur that leads gently down towards Pigeon Rock Glen, from where we could access the track up to the car. In keeping with the start of the day, we again encountered difficulty finding the track, which meant we went a kilometer in the wrong direction, and had to retrace our steps, before we found the right trail. At this juncture in the day this was something we really could have done without, and we were very glad to arrive back to the car. A grand total of 34 kilometers, and a total ascent of 1700meters, in just over six hours, meant that these old bones were in dire need of a good rest. A most enjoyable day.