I had a week off work and I wanted to head away for three or four days but I struggled with my usual indecision on where to go. After much mulling things over I headed back to Castletownbere and decided to sample the delights of the Beara Peninsula once again.
Sunday May 1st;
I'm not a huge fan of heading away on bank holiday weekends, as I tend to prefer the quieter less busy times, but needs must and the good weather that was forecast was too god to miss. Not only do I struggle with making the decision about where to head, but I also struggle with the choice of what to do when I get there. I kept nearly all my options open and packed up my hiking, cycling and fishing gear and set off west. The forecast for today was less than stellar, with light rain promised for much of the afternoon. I had kinda decided to fish for the day, but on the way down the day was actually quite nice so I decided that a bike ride around the beautiful Sheeps Head would be just the thing. Decision made , I was now looking forward to it. Alas as I neared Bantry dark low clouds filled the skies an it started to rain. It was however a brief affair. I drove to the far side of town and donned my cycling gear and readied for the off. Once again some rain made an appearance but I was ready now so I set off anyway. The route starts off nice and easy and undulates along a quiet road on the northern shores of the peninsula. Even in the gloomy conditions it was lovely and, as the rain had once again stopped I was thoroughly enjoying the trip. The first major difficulty is when a steep climb of the hill before Kilcrohane needs to be surmounted. It is not over long but at times it is in double digits in gradient, plus it was into the breeze. My heart was certainly pumping as I gratefully reached the crest.
If the ascent was tough, the descent was rapid. Perhaps a little too much so as the back of the bike fishtailed while braking when I met a car on the narrow road. No harm done however and once I reached Kilcrohane I turned right and headed along the ever more wild and beautiful road as it headed for the western extremity of the peninsula. Soon the landscape and the seascape become wild and even more delightful. By the time you surmount the steep short climbs to reach the roads end at Ballyroon you definitely feel that you have reached a special place. Today though I was relying on my memory for the sea views as here, the cloud had descended and all was enveloped in mist. Strangely it was none the less special because of that. A short rest and drink of water and I turned and headed back along the way I'd come. Now I was with the breeze and the road all the way to Durrus promised to be faster and easier. It was a very enjoyable return and it felt good not to have to struggle with the breeze. There are no hills on the route as you mostly follow the shoreline to the little village of Durrus which nestles at the eastern end of Dunmanus Bay. A steady climb from here followed before a fast return to Bantry and the car. Remarkably I had stayed dry the whole way and the rain returned once I had gotten changed. A total of 65 kilometres and 750 metres of ascent eased me into the holiday nicely. The Sheeps Head is wonderful.
I went and pitched my large tent in the little campsite on the golf course.The rain eased again in the evening and I spent a couple of hours of less than productive fishing at the adjacent pier but it had been a good first day.
Monday May 2nd;
The next few days were supposed to be very good weather wise and emerging from the tent to a calm sunny morning was certainly a good start. I decided that such weather merited another cycle. First up was a quick visit to the little lug bed in Castletownbere, where I spent an hour digging a good supply of bait. Once back at the tent I donned the old man in Lycra kit and headed off at 10.45. I decided to do a decently long cycle today and set off initially for Allihies. It is a nice easy start until the first climb at Gour, which got the heart pumping, but it was early doors and I was feeling pretty good. The weather was wonderful. Sunny, a light breeze and while not warm, it wasn't cold either. Add to this, absolutely stunning scenery and it's easy to understand why I was having a great time. Another climb to the gap before Allihies gave a good excuse for a little rest and drink while I took in one of my most favourite views. The road from here to the top of the climb out of Gortahig is narrow, twisting, undulating and equal parts wonderful and exhausting. It includes a couple of particularly tough climbs and once at the top of the final one, another rest was required.
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| Always worth a stop to look at Allihies |
Next up is the long relatively easy stretch as far as Lauragh. Major roadworks had closed the road outside Eyeries but I ventured ahead anyway and with some care I was able to get through. Indeed, where they had finished the road offered an improved surface and the section before Ardgroom was it's usual gorgeous self. Not that the rest was too shabby. Views were wonderful all the way. As I neared Lauragh I was starting to feel a bit tired and the looming Healy Pass weighted heavy on the mind. I wasn't over confident of flying up it. I turned onto the narrow road and faced into the 5 kilometre climb. It started well enough and the first couple of K went pretty well. I knew however that I was beginning to struggle. Once I reached the higher section I was beginning to bonk, and let's just say cresting the final section was pretty awful. I didn't pause for a rest and instead tried to use the long descent to recover. I wasn't feeling too bad once I was down in Adrigole and I turned for the final 11 kilometres. The first few kilometres went reasonably well but the short hill at Derreny finally did for me and it was a pure struggle to complete the final stretch. Strangely, it was as much my arms and chest muscles that were spent as it was tired legs. I guess I stood on the pedals during the climbs too much. The hour digging probably hadn't helped either. A good feed and a warm snooze in my sleeping bag went a long way to restoring me.
I ventured to a new fishing spot for me in the afternoon, just a couple of hundred metres from where I dig the lugworm.. It was a short and unproductive session. It was still a delight to bask by the water and soak in the sunshine and the views.
Tuesday May 3rd;
It was once again a lovely weather morning and after my struggles yesterday on the bike I decided that a hillwalk would be just the ticket for today. The delights of Hungry Hill lie about 6 kilometres from the golf course and I mostly decide to drive to the base of the west ridge and begin my hikes from there. Today, I decided to start from the tent and this meant a three kilometre hike up a quiet narrow little lane to start the day. Normally I'm not a fan of walking on roads but I have to say, with the hedgerows bursting into life, wildflowers in profusion and an accompanying score of birdsong, I loved every step. The three kilometres is also all uphill so by the time I was able to join the Beara Way and turn towards Hungry Hill I had gained 200 metres. It was a joy to be out and I must say it felt so much more relaxing than yesterday. Three more kilometres followed along the way until I reached the base of the mountain. The view of this wild and rugged mountain always inspires. I decided to miss out on the bottom section of the ridge and joined it about one third of the way up where the largest cliff section is to be found. I picked my way up the steep ground and at times enjoyed some fine scrambles and other times avoiding the hardest bits. This is a route that offers something for everyone. After climbing up through a narrow chimney the hardest bits are all done and soon I reached the easy ground of the south top. This offers an incredible panoramic view and I basked a while in the sun and enjoyed a bite to eat.
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| Heading for Hungry Hill |
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| Summit views. |
The main top is easily reached and then I turned towards the rough ground that leads to the next top of the day Knocknagree. In the past I have found this section harder than it should be as it is easy to get drawn too far to the left too soon. The way isn't always straightforward, but the secret to an easier traverse is to stay high on Hungry Hill for about 500 or so metres north of the summit and then begin to track west to the ridge from there. The recent dry spell had made the going considerably easier and it was possible to walk directly across areas that at times would be very wet. The 200 metre steep pull to Knocknagree is a good test but once up here then most of the hard climbing is over. I paused for a short while to again soak in the views before I headed for the final top of the day, Maulin. There is some steep ground to be negotiated before you reach the col under Maulin but again the secret is not to try and go down too soon. Walk easily northwest for around 500 metres and then it is much easier to reach the col. Once again I appreciated the dryer than normal underfoot conditions as I crossed to the slopes of Maulin. Now a straightforward 160 metre pull saw me reach the broad top. A really easy descent to reach a bog road that led easily back to the lane I started on. This I once again enjoyed strolling down and I arrived back to the tent a very content boy with my day.
A respectable total of 22 kilometres in 5 hours 45 minutes with over 1200 metres ascent.
Once again I went for a short fishing session before dinner. Once again I didn't catch anything for dinner. It was however a beautiful place to while some time away..
Wednesday May 4th;
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| You can't beat a sea voyage to start the day. |
The weather was again excellent this morning and I got up a little earlier so as to catch the 8am ferry, from the jetty adjacent to the golf course, to Bere Island. A place I have long thought to visit. The very pleasant 20 minute trip saw us dock at sheltered Lawrence Cove on the eastern side of the island. I wasn't sure what to expect, but it seemed a little busier that I expected, with more cars about. Perhaps I overstate it a little but I was passed by six or seven cars in the first few minutes of my walk. I planned on doing a loop of the western end of the island and this meant I had to do the first couple of kilometres along the road. Not that this was a hardship, as once I was away from the village of Rerrin, all I had for company was birdsong and flowers. The road initially went through some shady scrubby woodland before climbing along the hillside until I arrived at a wide pass between two hills. I went up to my right to have a look at the impressive Martello Tower that sits atop the first hill. This old British fortification is one of five on the island that were built so as to guard the strategic Bantry Bay against a French invasion in the early 19th century. Indeed the whole island bears the marks of history, and old barracks and gun placements can be found at the extremes. From the tower I followed the Beara Way markers across the pass and climbed easily to the large cross that stands on Knockanallig (267mtrs), the highest hill on the island. I stopped a while and gazed across the sound and I could see my tent and car at the golf course, and above that lay the delightful vista of the ground I had hiked yesterday.
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| Looking across at yesterdays hike. |
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| Looking East |
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| Standing stone |
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| Martello tower. |
From here on things become ever wilder. I wasn't really sure what to expect, but I was a little surprised and delighted at the expanse of remote hilly ground that swept away to a series of bays and headlands. It invited me on and I didn't hesitate. I dropped towards the rather lovely Doonbed Head and then turned and crossed pathless ground towards the twin heads of Shee Head. It was so beautiful. With blue skies and seas, bathed in warm sunshine, and not another soul in sight, I was in heaven. I climbed up the hillside and joined the trail once again and followed this easily to the spectacular Arnnakinna lighthouse. I stopped here for a little while and gazed across the channel where the wild extremes of the Beara Peninsula stretch away to the west. There is a delightful green road from here that you follow towards Derrycreeveen and once again return to inhabited land. Now, after 8 wonderful and wild kilometres, I was once again on the road. It was about 7 kilometres back to the ferry so I decided that it would be as easy to run it as walk, so I set off at a very gentle jog. I felt good and enjoyed the return route and the road went across the northern side of the island. It went through a couple of little hamlets and was mostly shaded and lots of while and blue bluebells adorned the hedgerows and more. I arrived back in Lawrence Cove a comfortable 20 minutes before the ferry was due to depart and it felt great to sit and relax and dwell upon a delightful outing on a magical island.
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| The wild and wonderful west |
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| Shee Head and Doonbeg Head with the Sheeps Head and Mizen Head beyond |
20.5 kilometres, 600metres ascent in 3 hours 45 mins.
Since I was back at my tent by lunchtime, I had plenty of time to once again do some fishing. This time I went to Dunboy, where I have had less than good success, and try my luck from there. It was great to relax and look across the water at the lighthouse where I had been a couple of hours earlier. This time I managed to catch some fish, the best being a beauty of a pollock which was almost 60 cms long. Great sport.
Thursday May 5th;
I was heading home today. The morning was cloudier that the previous few but it was dry and there was only a light breeze, so I decided that a cycle would finish off the trip nicely. After struggling so much near the end of the cycle on Monday I decided to take it a bit easier and do a shorter cycle. A circuit of the western end of the peninsula in the opposite direction to which I went Monday route of choice. Even though it is less than 50 kilometres in length, the hills were still as steep, so it wouldn't be a piece of cake.
An easy intro into Castletownbere to start, before a steady pull to the pass before Eyeries follows. The climb was interrupted when I came up behind a few stopped vehicles because a van had hit the ditch. It was only a minor shunt and after a few minutes the road was clear and I was able to continue on. The going is straightforward until you reach the climbs either side of Gortahig. The first one isn't too bad but the second, though only a kilometre in length, is pretty brutal and reaches a gradient of nearly 20% at one point. The remainder of the way to Allihies is not easy. Steeply up before steeply down and constant twists and turns meant that if I wasn't pumping up the hills I was hard on the brakes. The scenery is however gorgeous and helps to distract from the rigours. Another steep climb out of Allihies follows before a delightful section where I was able to relatively relax. Another climb, this time more gentle, to Gour and then it is straightforward all the way back to the tent. It was an ideal end to the trip.
49 kilometres and 720 metres ascent.
I packed everything up before a shower of rain, good timing, and drove to the beach near Bantry for a final spot of fishing. It was once again not very productive but in enjoyable none the less. I drove home a happy chap.