A Taste of a White Christmas.On The Galtees

 

On Christmas Eve I headed to the Galtee Mountains for a long overdue visit. It had been ages since I was last here. What with loc-kdowns and covid restrictions, coupled with a renewed re-discovery of sea angling, I hadn't had the chance to visit them. I was actually quite excited on the drive down. It had been quite cold these past few days and a good amount of snow had fallen on the mountains. The forecast for the day was good so it seemed I would get a taste of a winters day. I arrived at the fine new carpark on the north side of the mountains and I was on the move by 10.15. It was quite cold leaving the car, (just 3 degrees), and I was soon debating removing my light down jacket. Once I reached the open mountainside the breeze became evident so I kept the jacket on. I had decided to do the beautiful Clydagh Valley Horseshoe and it is nearly always my preferred way to do it by climbing Cush first. This makes for an easier descent and gets the hard climbing out of the way in the first half of the walk. There was a fair bit of snow on the mountains down to around the 500 metre level but a layer of cloud clung to the tops. I didn't mind about that. It simply felt great to be back on the hills. 

The summit cross looking rather chilly

Things looking icy heading up Galtybeg

Welcome back..half way up Cush

As I neared the summit of Cush the breeze became a stiff wind. Add to this the snow and rimed up rocks and it suddenly began to feel like a proper winters outing. On the top the wind sucked at any exposed skin and it felt wonderful and exhilarating. Next up comes the drop to the col and the 400 metre climb to Galtybeg. This in interminable at the best of times and today seemed to go on for ages. When I reached the final steep 100 metre section to reach the summit, the temperature seemed to plummet further and the grass was seriously rimed with ice. It was bitingly cold in the strong wind. It was also quite icy in the scoured, grass less sections and I began to wonder if I had made a mistake by leaving my crampons at home. Thankfully progress was safely made and I soon reached the summit. I didn't linger and headed immediately towards Galtymor. Did I say it was cold??. The climb to the summit of the highest inland mountain in the country went well, but again in places I would have found crampons useful, and I began to wonder what the descent at the far side of Dawsons Table would be like. The icy, windswept summit, was a properly fierce winter-scape. With no views to be had, I wasted no time in continuing on my way. Thankfully, the descent from the summit was a breeze. There was a lovely bank of firm snow that made it safe and easy to progress. The next section, above Lough Curra, provided easy going as the boggy sections were frozen. I stopped for a bite to eat at the low point and sheltered behind the wall. Next came the easy pull over Slievecushnabinnea before an easy descent off the mountain and back to the car. Just over 4 hours of invigorating winter fun made it a wonderful outing. 

As an aside, it has been wonderful to get back to sea angling. My success (or rather lack of it) has been patchy but my enjoyment is constant. The hills have some competition. I will have to find a balance.

The Slieve Mish Mountains. Caherconree and Baurtregaum

 

August 18th 2020

After enjoying wonderful weather for the few days I went to Ballyferriter, things returned to worse than normal after that. Dull, wet and dreary would sum it up nicely. To top things off, we have a full fledged storm arriving today so things don't look like improving anytime soon. Yesterday however, was the one good weather window that was available, so I grabbed the chance with both hands and set off west once again.

I wasn't after a big day, just one that would get me on the hills and give me a chance for a dip in the sea. Over the last few years I have become quite a fan of going for a soak in our seas. It is a bit strange for someone who is not a fan of cold water, but for a couple of months the water is bearable for me, and I have come to enjoy it. The weather was looking very nice. Not super warm, but pleasant, and it was still a shorts and T shirt day. I decided that a visit to the Slieve Mish mountains just west of Tralee would offer me a good mountain day, as well as being close to the beach. I drove up the little bohereen at Derrymore, where there is careful parking for several cars, and soon I was out on the open ground. The Derrymore river cuts through a deep valley that divides Baurtregaum from Caherconree. Both spurs on either side of the river are steep and neither offer an easy way to top. I normally do the round in a clockwise direction and climb the spur that leads to the NE top of Baurtregaum first. I thought about changing things today but I stuck to the norm. It meant that the climb held no surprises for me and the steep 300 metre slog up through heather was as expected...hard. Sweat flowed freely but height was steadily gained. Finally at the 400 metre contour there is an easement and you can catch your breath before another 150 metre pull is climbed. This is thankfully on easier ground as the heather is left behind.

Some cloud clung to the tops but I was mostly in the sun until I reached the 700 metre contour when I was enveloped in the mist. A few spatters of rain arrived and I briefly thought about putting on a jacket. As I was contemplating, the rain stopped and I just had a cool breeze and cloud to contend with. I reached the NE top and easily followed the ridge to the bleak main summit of Baurtregaum (851 metres). With nothing to see I just kept going towards Caherconree. I was lazy and decided to just wing it and walk without checking the map or compass. After a while I thought I was heading too far to the north so I decided to contour around the hillside to try and find the col below Caherconree. I walked for a while and saw no col, so I decided to stop my stupidity and check my position. My Suunto watch is very handy, and soon I had my position fixed on the map and I realized that I had contoured way too far to the south. Indeed I had actually been bang on course at the start. I set off in the correct direction and soon found the col. To my delight, the mists parted and I was offered some views again. As I rose easily to the summit of Caherconree (835 metres) I was once again in the mist but very shortly after I passed the summit the mists cleared and I enjoyed gorgeous views for the rest of the hike. It was a real boost for the spirit. I sat and enjoyed a bite to eat on the adjacent top of Gearhane (792 metres) where I enjoyed the views in every direction, but especially to the west. I decided on a whim to descend to the lake in the coum under the col between the Baurtregaum and Caherconree, and follow the river back to my car. It worked out beautifully and there was a reasonable trail to follow the whole way. It was especially handy near the end, as it allowed me to avoid the steep descent through heather at the end of the spur. I arrived back to the car four hours after setting off and  wasted no time in driving the kilometre to Derrymore beach, where I enjoyed a long soak in the very pleasantly warm sea. It was simply lovely to stand in the lapping waters and admire the fine mountain scenery that framed the shore. I drove the 90 or so kilometres home a very happy boy.

A weekend in Ballyferriter. The best of the Dingle Peninsula.

 Friday August 7th;

When the weather plays ball, the west coast of Ireland is really hard to beat. When you throw in one of the most beautiful areas on the west coast, then you are on to a winner. When I visit the Dingle Peninsula, I usually head to the northern shores, but this time I headed to the furthest western reaches and headed to a campsite near Murragh, not too far from Ballyferriter. The well appointed campsite was, unsurprisingly, busy but I was ushered to a semi secluded spot that proved perfect for the three nights I was booked in for. 

As the day was so fabulous and it being only about 5pm when I was all settled in, I decided that a nice short cycle would be just the ticket before dinner. I should perhaps make some effort to describe where I was. The campsite is situated near the inner curve of Smerwick Bay. The iconic Ceann Sibéal and the Three Sisters are on one side and Ballydavid Head rises on the other. The beautiful Wine Strand lines the shore. As a backdrop you have a hill, behind which, the Brandon massif soars. It is a wonderful complex juxtaposition of sea and mountain that is famous the world over. Indeed, some of the scenes from the final Star Wars movie were filmed on Ceann Sibéal and the Three Sisters. As I readied for my ride, I realized that it was a fair few years since I was last here, and I was really looking forward to rediscovering the area. What better way than a bike ride. My route went along the shore for much of the way, ending up at Brandon Creek. The traffic was light and the scenery wonderful and I loved every minute. From the Creek the road headed inland under Mount Brandon. I rejoined the outward section about 5 kilometres from home and arrived back an hour after setting off. It was just 25 kilometres and didn't have much climbing but it felt good to do something after the drive down. To finally round off the day I walked the kilometre or so to the beach and wallowed a while in the surprisingly warm sea. Watching the sun go down beyond the Three Sisters, as the little waves gently reached the shore was lovely. I felt fortunate indeed.

A terribly overcrowed and overdeveloped beach

Saturday August 8th;

If the weather was idyllic last evening, then that word would serve again this morning. A calm, warm, sunny morning greeted me, and it promised to remain so through the day. Having had a wee taster of a cycle last evening, today I intended to enjoy the main course. The plan was to cycle the Slea Head route to Dingle and then climb to the top of the Connor Pass before returning to Dingle and the tent, by the main road. The cycling is pretty easy for the first stages as you round Smerwick Bay and head for Clogher Head. I mean what's not to like?. Mountains on one side, rocky headlands on the other and a shimmering blue sea. And of course, not forgetting the beautiful hedgerows. They are a riot of colour right now,  with fuchsia, montbretia, meadowsweet and loosestrife (among others) lining the roadside. I was in heaven. Things actually get even better after that. The pull to the top of Clogher Head was excuse enough to stop and enjoy the expanded views. Now the stunning Blasket Islands were added to the mix and it was heady. Downhill into Dunquin and then the road narrows and climbs up and around Slea Head. Here you are high above the ocean and the road in like a winding ledge cut into the mountainside. These few kilometres are simply stunning. It was such a thrill to cycle there on sucha beautiful morning. Once you cross a ford where a stream runs over the road then more "normal" seaside scenery can be enjoyed. As I neared Ventry the road got a fair bit busier but it is wider as well so there was no problem all the way to Dingle.

Not bad views at Clogher Head

What a road..at Slea Head

At the Connor Pass

There is a road that by-passes the busy town on the northern flanks but it also gives means you have a steep hill to climb. Oh dear, I felt it in the legs and once again I was wondering why I was going to try cycle the Connor Pass. It was only a few weeks before that I went up there and it was something of a suffer fest then. I was hoping for better today. I didn't have the following breeze today but it wasn't against me either. It was equally warm however, so I took it nice and easy in the initial stages. To make a lng cycle short, it was still tough, but I managed it a bit better. I arrived at the top and after a brief rest and a drink I turned and returned the way I had come. What a delightful descent it is. The road is good, with plenty of room for cars. It is not too twisty and you can mostly see when there is anything coming. I wasn't in the mood to really go for it but if you were of a mind, you could have quite the adventurous descent. It is still a complete freewheel all the way back to Dingle. The hill up the bypass had to be done once again but after that it is pretty straightforward all the way back to the campsite. There is a sting in the tail however, when a final 100 metre climb has to be done before a freewheel back to the tent. I arrived back to the tent at 12.15 after covering 56 kilometres, climbed 825 metres in 2 hours 54. I was well pleased.

I relaxed for a while and had a brew before returning to the beach for another refreshing swim. It was still early so I whiled away some more time before deciding to drive to Mount Eagle and climb that. Its claim to fame is that it is the most westerly mountain in Europe. Even though it is well short of 2000ft (516 metres to be exact) it was the expected views that attracted me, and it didn't disappoint. I drove to the saddle between it and the altogether more shapely hill Croaghmarhin (403 metres) and set off at 15.36. I had hoped that there would be an obvious track to be seen but the slope looked overgrown with long grass, some heather and gorse. Down the hill a little I saw a gate and a grazed field that went about a quarter the way up the slope so I opted for that. The field was okay but once out of it on the open ground, it proved to be just as horrible as I had feared. I sweated and swore my way up the slope until suddenly I came to a well made stony track. I was too grateful to question where it had come from and I gratefully followed it up. It went almost all the way to the summit which made the going so much more pleasant. The final steep pull to the top was on a grassy trail and soon I  was on the broad boggy summit. The views were as wonderful as I had hoped, especially towards the Blaskets and in the other direction towards Dingle. I relaxed a while and gazed all about before retracing my steps back to the car. That is until I saw a reasonable trail through the horrible ground that led to the car. It would have been so much better if I had found it first time. It had taken only just under 100 minutes and was only 6 kilometres long. Less than 400 metres of ascent was done but it had packed in much in the way of interest and views. I was glad I had done it.It also gave me the excuse to go for another swim before dinner.

Mount Eagle summit views

Not a bad spot for the tent.

Sunday August 9th;

After my baby hike of last evening, today I was going to have a good outing on Mount Brandon.It promised to be another stonking weather day and I was really looking forward to it. I planned to head to the car park at Ballybrack on the south side of Mount Brandon and try to include as much of the main ridge as I could. It was 09.45 when I parked my car at the already busy car park. It was clear that the normal route would be a very busy affair so I set off across the bog to reach the large valley below Gearhane and Brandon Peak. This had the advantage of immediately leaving the crowds behind and it gave me a nice easy kilometre to start the hike. At least it did until I neared the floor of the valley when I had to cross a deep mire of long grass and gorse. That didn't last long thankfully as I soon reached the farm track that leads deep into the valley. This is a blessing as the ground on either side is wet and rough. At the end of the track it is easy to ford the river and nearby the steep spur that rises to the southwestern shoulder of Gearhane is reached. The end of the valley is backed by a few large coums that form a spectacular backwall to the glen. It was really quite warm and when I started up the steep ground at the base of the spur I was soon sweating profusely. Horseflies were also taking a shine to me and several had a feed before I spotted them.

That coastline always draws the eye

Wonderful and inviting views. Heading into the valley below Gearhane. Went up the steep spur.

A steep 200 metres had to be negotiated before easier ground is finally reached. This did offer some short little scrambling options, which I enjoyed. Once on the easier ground there was finally a puff of air to cool me down. I was feeling very good and enjoying the wonderful views all about. Eventually I reached the 803 metre summit of Gearhane, where I paused for a long drink. That was the hardest of the climbing over with, and I now had the glories of the main ridge to enjoy. And enjoy it I most certainly did. Normally I follow the track from Brandon Peak to Brandon but this time I stuck close to the edge. While this adds to the climbing a little, it most certainly adds to the views. All the while I was completely alone and I had these wondrous views to myself. That is until I reached Mount Brandon, which was strewn with people. I had a bite to eat here and left quickly to continue along the ridge. Once I was beyond the main paths I was again all alone. I am always surprised and ever grateful that people generally tend to stick to the main summit. Once you leave the honey pot it is always much quieter, and in my opinion better.

Once beyond the Faha Ridge the views are again wild and wonderful. An Sás is always a joy to see and the final top Masatiompán is now not too far away. Perhaps it was the wonderful weather, or perhaps it was that I was very careful to drink plenty, but whatever the reason I was feeling strong and great. I relished every step for the remainder of the ridge and before long I was atop Masatiompán and relaxing. I was surprised to discover that I could see the mountains of Connemara away in the distance. There was much to rest the eye on. I descended and joined the |Dingle Way and this gave a good trail all the way back to the road near Brandon Creek. A lengthy 6 kilometres followed on the road, which was quite tough in the heat, but it passed and I was delighted to arrive back at my car 6 hours 35 minutes after setting out. I had covered 22.5 kilometres and climbed 1450 metres. What a contrast in days to the last time I was on this mountain. Then I had done a quick up and back from Cloghane in continuous driving rain and no views. It certainly hadn't felt like summer then. It most certainly felt like summer a little while later when I washed the rigours of the hike away in the pristine waters of Smerwick Harbour.

Monday August 10th;

All good things have to come to an end I suppose, and today I had to return home and to night-work. It was somewhat cloudier this morning but still warm and I was hopeful that the cloud would burn off during the morning. I was in two minds as to what to do today. I could do the Slea Head cycle again or I could walk Ceann Sibéal and the Three Sisters. As it was greyer weather I forsook the cycle and opted for the walk. Not that this was in any way second best. The walk is without doubt one of the most lovely coastal walks in the country. I was all packed and on the move by 09.20 and I set off on the short drive to the roads end under Ceann Sibéal. A fine track gives easy access to the higher ground. It was put there a few years ago, when they were filming for the final Starwars movie. At its end it is just a matter of climbing the final metres across a field to reach the crest. A trail them leads up to the nearby summit at 206 metres where a ruined lookout tower. What a spectacular place this it. A vertiginous 600 foot cliff drops into the ocean and to the south the rugged coastline and the Blasket Islands draw your eye. There is a nice flat grass patch near the lookout and I really must pitch my tent there some night. I turned my attention to the continuation of the ridge that leads to, and over the Three Sisters and I set off. Initially I walked but the going is so easy and as I was wearing my trail runners I broke into a gentle trot.

It takes about three kilometres to reach the first of the sisters but the whole way is wonderful and spectacular. One lovely surprise along the way was at a broken cliff and grass section where, just about 20 foot below me, I saw a beautiful fox. We eyed each other for some seconds before it wandered on down the steep ground. Another fox could be seen nearby curled up and enjoying a good sleep. Frequently gannets flew in small groups heading off for some fishing ground or other. What a sleek beautiful bird they are. As I said, I took it nice and handy on the run, and I didn't try to wear myself out too much on the uphill sections. It was all about enjoying myself this morning. The SW, Middle and NE top of the sisters give equally beautiful vantage points along the way. I enjoyed a pause and rest at each one. The NE top is the highest at 153 metres (and perhaps the best viewpoint) and I lingered a while here, somewhat reluctant for the adventure to end. A steep-ish descent on good ground saw me head to near the shores of Smerwick Harbour. One delightful surprise awaited, when I looked to my left and spotted a sizable pod of dolphins bobbing along, just a few hundred metres from shore. I watched awhile enchanted before resuming my run. I soon reached a farm track which became a tarred lane. Then I followed the Dingle way as it went around the busy golf links and I ran the final kilometre upto my car. In all it had been just 2 hours 20 minutes of an outing and I had covered 14 kilometres and 550 metres of climbing. A quick change and drive to the almost adjascent Ferriters Cove allowed me to have a final swim in splendid isolation at this beautiful beach. Sometimes it is worth going to the furthest reaches of a peninsula to find the most unspoiled areas. It won't be as long before my next visit.