Bookending Christmas..Tomies and Purple...A Fine Round in The Galtees

December 22nd;

The mighty Gap of Dunloe...famed far and wide for it's rugged splendor and spectacular scenery. One can only wonder at the power and size of the glacier that gouged out this huge cut in the mountains. Two distinct mountain areas are thus created but both are classed as The Magillycuddy Reeks. To the east of the gap lies Tomies, Shehy and Purple and to the west lie the many tops that make up the rest of The Reeks.
I had intended to go for a quick up and down Carrauntoohil but at the last minute I turned and headed into Kate Kearneys where I parked up and suited up and headed for Tomies. There are two main ways to reach Tomies...One.. head into to gap until after the skew bridge and head up to The Chimneys. This allows more direct access to Tomies North Top (568metres) but it is steep. Two..use the north spur that allows more gentle access to the mountain but it is longer and you begin by walking back out from the gap for half a kilometre before turning onto a lane, passing some houses before a mucky wet track allows you to reach the crest of the spur and here you follow the trail upwards. This was my route of choice today.

Early views into The Gap

Height is gained gently but the rewards are immediate as the views into the gap and towards Lough Leane and more are wonderful. Cruach Mhór peers above the shoulder of "The Bull" and looked moody and menacing in the black clouds that swept across its top. It wasn't long before I was suffering the consequences of those black clouds as frequent showers of horizontal rain swept through and as I got higher, hailstones, ensured I didn't forget it was winter. It was invigourating.Before long though the gradient steepens as you near the North Top and a steep 200 metres is needed to reach the bleak broad boggy summit. The views are amazing though and the full grandeur of The Reeks, The Gap, Lough Leane and more is a sight to behold. Mind you the strong chill wind ensured I wasted no time before heading for the main top of Tomies. This arrived and the wind up here was really strong. Not enough to blow you sideways but not far off. Easy going for a while before the next drag up to Shehy. Again the strong wind kept me moving so Purple wasn't long in coming. The 100 metre climb passed easily enough and I was able to keep in the lee of the wind right to near the summit. Not so on top though and here the wind was inclined to sweep me sideways. I retreated into the summit shelter and ate a bit here. All was sheltered except for the top of my hat which buffeted comically in the wind.

Getting better

Away to the east

Once out of the shelter the assault resumed but it wasn't long before I was descending rapidly towards Lough Glas. The descent went easily and well and it wasn't too long before I reached the head of the gap. As I went down the view into the Black Valley was simply gorgeous and as if that wasn't enough once I reached the road I had the beauty of the spectacular gap to come. The walk back to the car was really nice except for the frequent heavy showers that ensured I arrived soaking at the car. I changed in the public toilets into my dry clobber and drove home one very happy bunny. Incredibly I had only met one family group on the entire mountain walk. Twas all the better for that.

Spectacular or what?

15 kilometres 1100 metres ascent and 4 hours 25 minutes.

 

December 26th;

Overindulgence on Christmas day meant it was all too easy to curl up in bed on Stephens Day morning and listen to the rain. It was a pretty miserable morning (what I saw of it) and I was seriously thinking of ditching my previous plan to head to Galtymore today but eventually I resigned myself to a drenching and shook off my lethargy and left home at 10.30. Drizzle and low cloud shrouded the whole of the landscape all the way to Kings Yard where I parked up before setting off on my walk. It was after 11.30 by the time I started so I couldn't be too ambitious with regards to the length of outing I could tackle (not that I really felt up to too much anyway) given the short days but there was still enough time left to do a decent horseshoe. Another good thing was the weather was showing signs of real improvement and some of the tops were clearing.

The weather lookin up

I walked into the glen under Monabrack and crossed over the river before climbing the steep 300 metres to reach its summit. While it was still pretty grey it was wonderful to be out and as it was dry and I had views I felt fortunate indeed. This is one of my favourite areas in this compact range and in here you feel quite remote and removed from anything. It was a mere stiff breeze today and it was also very mild and frankly could have been an autumnal or spring day. After Monabrack a 100 metre drop to the col before the long slog towards the crest of the main ridge adds another 270 metres to the outing. Up here the breeze was a little stronger but still not too bad and it was still mild. One of my most favourite spots in the Galtees is Lyreacappul and on a whim I decided to to include it in my day. It is in truth only a short diversion and I was very glad I did it. Now it is a simple matter of following the Galtee Wall to its end at the base of Dawsons Table and this I did. The views down to the rich agricultural land on the north side of the ridge is always a treat and I really enjoyed my jaunt. The climb to the roof of the range was quite easy and I even had the wind at my back. Alas a little cloud closed over the top as I arrived but I didn't mind. I debated heading in a direct line back towards Kings Yard but I was having fun and I had enough time so I decided to throw in Galtybeg as well. The last time I was here it was in the grip of winter and the top of the descent was icy and slippery. Today it was merely saturated and slippery. The 200 metres to the col went quickly and the views down to Lough Diheen are spectacular and in places a slip would not be recommended. Now all that remained is the 80 or so metres to the final summit of the day. This soon came and I turned and made a direct line into the glen in which the fledgling river Attycharaan flowed. I followed this to the beautiful spot where three streams meet in a clutter of little waterfalls. A small little climb on the shoulder of the following hill and I reached the old ruins and track that led back to the car. The rain arrived for the last twenty minutes of the outing but I was frankly thrilled to have had such a decent weather window in what was a pretty bleak day. It is an easy thing to get changed in the yard as they offer excellent facilities. It really should be utilized more. 

Towards Lyracappul

Just follow the wall..nearly all the way

It had taken me 4 hours 14 minutes to cover the 16.5 kilometres. 1200 metres of climbing made sure my muscles got a good workout and remarkably I hadn't seen a soul all day. Great

A Winters Round Of The Coumloughra Horseshoe

On Sunday I decided to treat myself to another winters outing. This time I opted for a traverse of the three highest mountains in the land which makes for an excellent grade 1 winter route.
When snow lies on the mountains the landscape takes on a magical quality that makes hill goers far and wide salivate at the prospect of spending time on them. The experience can be sublime. Hours traversing sunny wonderful scenery in crystalline crisp air tends to create memories that last a lifetime. Sometimes though it can be a real test of physical and even mental resolve and when you reach lower ground you can feel like you have been put through the proverbial wringer. This time it was a little bit of both.

It was dark until I was beyond Killarney so I couldn't see the conditions on the mountains but when I was passing Fossa I could finally see the majesty of the scene and the Reeks looked stunning with snow lying to around 600 metres. The tops were mostly clear at the moment but plenty of dark menacing cloud lay elsewhere so I expected to have some showers while I was out. I had toyed with the idea of trying for an easy winter climb, something like "The Step" (a grade 2 route) but conditions were reported to be still a little thin so I decided that the Coumloughra Horseshoe would give the best chance of good conditions. I drove the extra miles to the deserted carpark at the base of the hydro road and, as heavy sleety rain arrived when I did, I put on the rain gear and off I went. There is something lovely about being warm and well protected while you walk in bad weather and straight away I was enjoying my day. Cloud had covered the tops and to the west the blackness of approaching squalls looked menacing but it promised to be at the very least an invigorating trip.
The sleet had turned to snow by the time I reached Lough Eighter and the breeze had turned to a wind but it was thrilling. I decided to head towards Caher first as this allows for a more enjoyable scramble as you cross the Beenkeragh Ridge. Finally I reached the snow line as I rose up the long easy spur that swept up into the cloud towards Caher. The wind wasn't too bad. The snow had stopped and the hint of a clearance was also in the air..life was good. Once I was up at around 750 metres the clearance finally arrived and it was a glorious sight to see the snowy spectacular landscape finally revealed. Across the coum Skregmore looked great but it was the distant Caherconree on the Dingle Peninsula that caught the eye. It was just a brief clearance however and I was soon enveloped in the mist again and I resumed my upward journey. At around the 850 metre contour the rocks became coated in snow ice but my boots were still able to get a good grip so I didn't require crampons. The West Top was a bleak winter wonderland with everywhere plastered in icy snow. Looking into the abyss on the left was exciting but a cold stiff wind ensured that I kept moving so I dropped to the wild col and headed to the main summit of Caher which just passes the 1000 metre mark. A very enjoyable walk along the airy ridge followed and sometimes fleeting glimpses of the bottom of the coum could be seen. Next comes the climb to the summit of Carrauntoohil which passed quickly and here I stopped to put on my crampons and got the ice axe out before tackling the steep descent to the top of O'Sheas Gully. While I was putting on a warmer pair of gloves the clouds parted and the glorious views all around were revealed. I took a few pictures quickly before setting off for the Beenkeragh Ridge. On the way down to the ridge the view to Caher took on an otherworldly appearance as it was suddenly backlit by the sun while dark clouds beyond looked menacing. It was wonderful but you will have to take my word for it as it was too much of a faffle to try and take off my gloves and root my phone out of its protective wrapping so I could get a picture. I probably wouldn't have been able to do it justice anyway.

Across to Skregmore

Caher always looks great

Summit views

The first section of the ridge is the best and it gives an airy exciting scramble on good rock to the point on the ridge called The Bones. It requires some care using crampons but I took my time and soon all the good stuff was over. I stuck to the path for the rest of the ridge until I reached the summit of Beenkeragh at 1009 metres. Suddenly the wind, once I reached this point in the journey increased dramatically in strength and basically from here all the way until I arrived back down at Lough Eighter I was pummeled and battered by what must at times been 70 mph gusts that made progress very difficult and at times very treacherous. Add to this frequent blasting by spindrift and hailstones and lets just say I was glad to have brought my goggles but sorry I hadn't included a balaclava as any exposed skin was stung by the hail. I stayed in the lee of the slope for much of the way but always the wind found me and by the time I was at the lake I felt like I had been in something of a battle. It was tiring but equally engaging and thrilling. The walk back to the car was straightforward and the weather was also on the up with mostly blue skies allowing for stunning vistas. I arrived back at the car 5 hours 40 minutes after setting off and it is fair to say I was thrilled with my day. It had been a totally full on winter battering and I was delighted to have come out on the other side. The Reeks delivered yet again.    

Back down..phew

The Clydagh Valley Horseshoe on The Galtees

Winds from the northwest meant a forecast of snow on high ground so as a last hurrah before I returned to work I decided to head to The Galtees in the hope of a blast of winter. Setting off from home in the middle of a heavy shower of sleety rain it certainly felt wintry enough and I must say I was looking forward to it. The drive down was as much in rain as not but some clear skies meant I was hopeful that I might get some views as well. Finally as I approached Mitchelstown I could see a dusting on the mountains down to around the 600 metre level...game on 😊.

I decided to do the Clydagh Valley Horseshoe as this would give a decent outing without being too long and still crossing over Galtymór. I set off at 10.20 and decided to head for Lough Curra first as this would hopefully mean the stiff wind would be at my back. A heavy sleet shower meant I was fully suited as I set off but when it cleared I took off the hard shell and packed it away and this is where it stayed for the rest of the trip. Perhaps it was the sight of snow but I found myself really excited by the trip. I suppose it is only natural to feel a little jaded at times but today I I was really excited to be here. The walk up to the wonderful coum in which nestles Lough Curra went well and I was at the snowline by the time I reached the dark waters. I headed around the lake to the far right corner and climbed the broad easy gully that leads to the crest of the main Galty ridge. Once out of the shelter of the gully it was definitely full on winter. This was emphasized by the arrival of a squall of horizontal snow which thankfully was being blown by a following wind. I was also in the cloud but I didn't mind as it was simply invigorating to experience this wild winter weather in this wonderful landscape.

Across to Cush

The easy gully

Suddenly clearing

As I neared the summit of Galtymór I was delighted to find that the cloud was opening up and soon I was able to enjoy views as well as the weather. The summit was quite icy and when I started the descent towards Galtybeg I had to exercise some care so as to avoid a slip. Any notions that I was "hard core" by being out in this weather were dispelled when I was passed by a hill runner dressed in shorts, a very lightweight jacket and runners as he made his way to the top. I was well impressed. When I reached the col above Lough Diheen I was suddenly assaulted by another squall and by spindrift as it was blown up the slope. I had reason to regret not bringing any goggles as well as forgetting crampons. There are few things more unpleasant than a speeding bit of snow or ice hitting your eyeball...ouch. The wind seemed to be getting a little stronger and on the top of Galtybeg it was buffeting. I didn't delay before setting off down the icy slopes and heading for Cush. The clearance brought wonderful light and views and it was delightful all the way to the top and back to the car. It had taken 3 hours 25 minutes to cover the 13 kilometres and included over 1000 metres of ascent. It was a lovely outing.

Summit of Galtymór

Wonderful light

Cnoc an Chuillinn via the Northeast Spur

Monday December 9th;

With storm Atiyah having spent itself overnight and another bout of wild and wet weather due to arrive tomorrow it was an easy decision to make to head to the Reeks and get in a quality hill day during this weather window. It was a clear chilly morning with a mere breeze blowing instead of the gales of yesterday and as I parked the car at Lisliebane I could see only a few bits of cloud blowing across the tops. I had thought to just do a straight up and down Carrauntoohil but as I walked into the glen I decided to head for Coomeenmore and climb the north spur of Cnoc an Chuillinn. This is a fine route that leads directly to the summit from the spectacular coum. It is also one of the least visited places in the range. Getting to the coum is a nice walk in itself as you cross the outflow of Lough Callee before contouring gradually into the coum. The spur is fronted by an imposing buttress that could offer some serious broken scrambling but it is wet and difficult and perhaps best avoided unless using a rope. The route climbs the steep left flank of the spur and while it looks a bit intimidating it isn't too bad and only in a few places is it necessary to use your hands. Eventually you reach the top of the buttress and now it is a matter of following the crest of the spur as it rises to the top. A few little scrambly steps can be enjoyed but these can also be avoided if you wish.

Great view across Lough Callee towards Carrauntoohil

Up steeply to the top of the buttress then easier to the summit

Finally the summit arrived and in the stiff chill breeze it didn't feel very welcoming today. This is one of my favourite places in the range and the views it offers into the Black Valley and the Brida Valley are airy and wonderful. Today things were a little moodier as cloud brushed the summit and semi restricted the views but it was moody and still undeniably beautiful. It still being quite early I turned and headed towards Carrauntoohil. After passing Cnoc na Toinne I reached the Devils Ladder and then faced into the long slog to the roof of Ireland. I was actually feeling quite strong and it passed quickly enough and after about 25 minutes I found myself alone at the cloud swept top. A quick bite to eat in the rather grim summit shelter was "enjoyed" before I retraced my steps back towards the Ladder and then descending via the Heavenly Gates. This airy route passes through the most spectacular side of the mountain and is always a pleasure to use. Things went well and I found myself back at the car in just under 5 hours. Needless to say the cloud had lifted by the time I was back in the floor of the glen but I had had some lovely views and a blast of mountain air at this time of year is always a good thing.

Summit views

Brandon Peak around to An t'Sais

December 1st and a stellar frosty morning were to coincide so the decision to get up early and head for Mount Brandon was an easy one. Leaving home at 7.45 I was somewhat surprised to find that there was hardly anything in the way of frost but the skies were cloud free so I was hopeful that the mountains would be crisp and clear. The temperature gauge actually dropped to zero as I drove west and when the dawn arrived the mountains looked wonderful in the clear morning sky. The drive from Tralee to Cloghane was simply wonderful and the mix of sea and mountain once again stirred the spirit.

Normally I head up the left side..today on the right

 I parked beside the church and I was on the move by 09.25. I had decided to head for Gerhane via Lough Avoonane  and to perhaps go across the ridge all the way to Masatiompán. I covered the nearly four kilometres along the narrow lane quickly and then turned onto the trail that headed into the wonderful wild. As I headed up to the lake my eye was once again drawn to the east ridge of Brandon Peak. I had never actually been on it and I suddenly resolved that today I would change that. At the lake I turned right and then crossed the fence and took a direct line for the easternmost point of the ridge, where it reached the top of the steep buttress. I know that the true route climbs a rock rib up the buttress but what I really wanted to explore today was the narrow crest that leads directly to the summit.
A steep slog was followed by some scrambling on large rocks and up through some long heather before eventually at around the 600 metre contour I reached the crest. What a joy it was. The clear summits were suddenly being brushed by cloud that rolled over the ridge higher up. While I was a little disappointed, things were still beautiful and if anything the ridge looked even more spectacular as it rose into the mist. The ridge itself is quite easy and more of a walk  really but it does offer some excellent airy positions where the drops to the right are serious. Nothing is compulsory though as the ground on the left is quite amenable for those of a nervous disposition. Soon I was enveloped by the cloud and I finished my climb to the summit. No views and a cold biting breeze made for a swift exit and I headed straight away towards Brandon.

The descent was at times a little slippy on ground and stones made slick by the mist but it was soon on a good track and there follows an easy passage all the way to the final pull to the summit of Mount Brandon. Most of the way there I was treated to misty views to the stunning coastline with its rocky headlands and bays and beyond the glory of the Blaskets could also be seen. Despite (or perhaps because of) the cloud these views seemed precious and I was really so glad I came. I reached the chill and claggy summit after three hours and here I sat in wonderful solitude and enjoyed a welcome bite to eat. Once I was beyond the summit and a couple of hundred metres lower down I was once again treated to those views. This time the rugged north and east side competed with the west and once more I was spoiled for choice. The ridge flew by and it is mostly easy walking all the way as far as the bleak col under Masatiompán. The steep 100 metre pull to the broad top dispelled any chill in the bones and then I started the descent towards Arraglen and one of the few bothies in this country. Once I was back under the cloud this was a pure and easy pleasure. Ahead lay the wonderful An t'Sáis and I decided to include a visit to this glorious viewpoint to round off the day.

Looking west to Mount Eagle and The Blaskets

The rugged east side

Heading for An t'Sáis

Once I reached the metaled road-head I turned right and walked to the crest of the hill and once through a gate I followed the fence uphill to the left. A short boggy traverse was needed to reach the edge of the coum and this I followed to its highest point, all the while enjoying the majesty of the ground as it swept 400 metres to the ocean below. It is a jewel in the coastline and a real bonus so late in the day. I passed over the nearby Faill an t'Sáis (431 metres) and then it is an easy descent to the point where the metaled road reaches the tarmac and once down here I walked the remaining 5 kilometres on quiet roads. The evening light was beautiful and the Faha Ridge at times glowed golden. Across Brandon Bay, Benoskee and more were a constant delight. I made it back to the car just before 4pm. I was soon relaxing into the long drive home and this also was a delight as the russet sky and landscape just got more and more spectacular as dusk approached. To crown it off, the sight of a black silhouette of The reeks stood proud against a deep crimson horizon, was a final treat before the light died. Brandon is always well worth the effort. It had been a great day.

The views kept coming right to the end

24 kilometres..1500 metres ascent and 6 hours 30 minutes.