Friday 14 August 2015

A Two Day Bike Ride In The Southwest. Glorious !

Wednesday August 12th;

With a good weather forecast and a newly serviced bike I set off from Killarney just before 11am with a vague plan to cycle west and see how far I would get over a couple of days. Its fair to say that I'm no great cyclist and my normal bike rides to date have tended to be in the 25 to 45 mile range so it would be interesting to see how I would fare on longer days. As I was planning to spend two days out I brought a change of clothes, shoes etc and some food and my cookset and gas (I just can't seem to let go of the camping habits). Indeed it was a last minute decision to leave my tent behind and I would stay in a B&B overnight. So not only was I venturing into the unknown with the longer cycles but I would have a fairly laden rucksack on my back which would add to the load. On the plus side was the weather which had remained true to the forecast and looked set fair. I originally had thought to go into Killorglin and go around Caragh Lake to Glencar and from there to Waterville via the Ballaghisheen Gap but as Puck Fair was on I decided to give Killorglin a miss and went directly to Glencar instead. Right from the start the route delivers, with the majestic scenery of the Magillicuddy Reeks rising ever more spectacularly on my left.

Benkeeragh rising into the cloud

Across Lough Acoose towards the Coomloughra Horseshoe

Wild ground looking towards Mullaghanattin
Soon the hustle and bustle of the ring of Kerry is left behind and the road is much quieter all the way to Waterville which allows one to relax and take in the views. I was also pleased to find that the backpack was quite comfortable (well I am very used to carrying it on the hills) and causing me no problems. After passing Glencar the landscape becomes even wilder and as you cycle through the expanse of bog on the way to Ballaghisheen Gap it is easy to feel that you have entered another world. I found the pull up to the Gap a struggle but boy is it worth it when you get there. The view back to the Reeks is truly spectacular and must be one of the very best in these islands. After a suitable rest there comes the reward of a long downhill section on the other side and then the mainly flat run all the way to Waterville. I was feeling quite tired here as I had covered nearly forty miles so I stopped and enjoyed a bite of lunch in the sun. The only downside now was that I was back on the busy Ring of Kerry route so as it was now the height of the tourist season I would have to contend with lots of traffic. The next big pull up the the spectacular viewpoint of Coomakista actually went well and I felt quite strong. My oh my what a wonderful place to be on a day such as this. Even the hoards of tourists couldn't spoil my mood and it was actually great to see their evident joy at the scenery. On a day such as this it is easy to understand why people come from all over the world to visit here. The descent to Caherdaniel was a joy and my strength stayed with me all the way to a very very busy Sneem where another coffee was enjoyed. I hadn't been sure how well I would fare but I now felt confident that even though I had done almost sixty miles I would be able to get as far as Kenmare this evening which would make a total of 78 miles with over 1200 mtrs of climbing. It is mostly a flat road so I made good progress and after a couple of house full scenarios I found a reasonable B&B just outside the town. I slept very well.
The view back from Ballaghisheen

Scariff and Deenish Ilands

Over Derrynane

Whats not to like

Thursday August 13th;

After a full Irish breakfast I almost felt ready for the day ahead. That is until my backside tried to settle on the saddle and the aches from a (for me anyway) long day the day before made themselves felt. Oh dear, I hoped that things would settle down soon but the rough road on the way to Glengarriff didn't help matters. Eventually though my mind became more occupied with other things ( like the climb up to the Caha Pass) and I settled into the rhythm of the day. Once you pass Bonane the land becomes once again rugged and wild and the astonishing scenery of the Beara Peninsula envelopes you. The pass itself is quite spectacular and you have to go through a tunnel at the top but it is when you emerge on the other side the glory that is the valley that flows down to the village of Glengarriff is breathtaking (that is if you have any left after the 300 mtr climb). Lakes, mountains contorted my convoluted rock and ancient oak forests are framed by a brilliant blue sea. It it amazing stuff and I made sure to savour the views on the excellent and long descent. Four miles pass without having to pedal so I was well rested by the time I reached the pretty village. I still wasn't sure how far I would go today and I had the option of going over the Healy Pass to Lauragh and back to Kenmare or continuing along the peninsula as far as Ahillies and around to Eyeries and then to Kenmare. The long (second) route would make it an 86 mile outing and I would then have to get to Killarney another 20 miles further but I had often thought how great it would be to cycle the whole peninsula so I think the decision was already made.
Top of the Caha Pass



Typical mountain fare on the Beara Peninsula

Hungry Hill looms over Adrigole

Once you leave Glengarriff it isn't too long before you have to start climbing again and the steep final pull up to Derreenacarrin comes as something of a shock but the gentle glide on the other side with the mighty bulk of Hungry Hill directly ahead is more than enough compensation. It really is an impressive mountain and one I must explore more. When I reached Adrigole I didn't have to think long before opting to continue on the longer route. The weather was so great and it might be some time before I would get such a glorious chance again so it was an easy decision. The road on to the busy fishing town of Castletownbere is again mostly flat and I made good progress. This is again at the 40 mile mark so I had a rest here and enjoyed a coffee by the waterside. Once beyond the town you really get the feeling of being at the remote western tip of Europe. The sea dominates the horizon and the land is wild and rugged. A breeze had sprung up and it made progress on the uphill sections (and there were a couple of them) on the way to Ahillies difficult for my tiring body. Yet again the views continued to be stunning and I drew inspiration (if not strength) from them. Suddenly you arrive at Bealbarnish Gap and almost surreal beauty of the bay that holds the picturesque village of Allihies is laid out before you. If you didn't enjoy this view there would be something seriously wrong with you. It is amazing. Swiftly downhill through flowering verges and up into the colourful village before continuing tortuously up and down for the next 7 kilometers before finally reaching the hilltop at Caherkeen where I rested and ate my lunch.

Castletownbere nestling under Hungry Hill

Towards Dursey Island

Allihies bay

Steep hills

If you are going to have lunch its not a bad spot.

Kilmakilloge Harbour

Climbing up from Lauragh

Glentrastel
That short stretch was for me the hardest of the whole route. Several short but brutally steep sections sapped what little I had left in my legs and I wondered how I was going to get as far as Kenmare, never mind Killarney. Now I was on the northern shores of the peninsula once again and new vistas were to be enjoyed. The mountains of the Everagh Peninsula stretched away to the east. Scariff and Deenish Islands looked great and in the further distance the Skelligs rose from the azure sea. After a good rest I was pleased to find the road to Eyeries was flat and easy and this easy roadway continued all the way to Lauragh. The almost semi tropical Kilmakilloge Harbour basked in the sun and helped distract me from the looming climb ahead which came the form of the almost 200 mtr pull up and around the lovely little peak of Knockanoughanish. I was really pleased to find that I was able to handle this quite well and reached the top in reasonable fettle. I now knew that Kenmare was within my sights and indeed the return went very well so after another coffee I set off for Killarney. The long climb up to Molls Gap would be the next and final obstacle of the route but I took it fairly gently (like I had a choice) and eventually was able to enjoy the familiar downhill section towards Ladies View and on to Killarney. Once again the Reeks were dominant and the sweeping views from the Black Valley to the Gap of Dunloe is always a joy. I arrived back into a thronged Killarney and caught my train back home very very tired (after almost 110 miles and over 2000 mtrs of climbing) and very very satisfied. I must do more biking trips in the future.
After Molls Gap looking at the Gap of Dunloe

From Ladies View looking towards journeys end Killarney

Saturday 8 August 2015

A Round Of Mangerton And Stoompa

Saturday August 8th;

Today I went back to Killarney again with Frank to re-acquaint myself with my home mountains after my short trip to Wales. I didn't have a huge amount of time as I had to be at work for 19.00 so we opted to do a hike around the Horses Glen over Stoompa and Mangerton. The weather forecast was for rain to arrive in the early afternoon but we were on the track before 9am so there would be a good chance we would be down before it arrived. It was disappointing however to see cloud clinging to the summits and even some misty rain about. Normally for some reason people do this round in an anticlockwise direction (probably because it is normally with the wind) but today we decided to head for Stoompa first and this would get the rough wet boggy three kilometer trudge to reach Lough Garragarry out of the way first. This passed well enough and once we were across the river flowing out of the lake we climbed onto the spur that leads towards Stoompa. The strength of the wind came as a bit of a surprise and there was precious hint of high summer temperatures in the air but things were far form unpleasant. Eventually we reached the 705 mtr summit and here hat and gloves were required to stave off the chilly temperatures. The wind made sure we didn't linger so we set off gently downhill towards the low point on the eastern slopes of Mangerton before climbing the gentle slopes to the broad bleak boggy plateau at over 800 mtrs. Here we enjoyed a quick bite to eat before setting off for the ridge that leads to Mangerton North. Now the strong wings were to our backs and we positively glided the 80 odd mtr climb to its 782 mtr top. Lovely easy ground saw us quickly down to the pony track and then back to our car. The wind made it refreshing and the rain stayed away so all in all it was a good day.





Wednesday 5 August 2015

TRAVERSING THE RHINOGS AND CADAIR IDRIS

Sunday August 2nd;

I did my by now customary train and boat train ride and caught the bus from Bangor at 09.18 to Tan y Bwlch and alighted at 10.45 with the plan to traverse the Rhinogs and ultimately climbing Cadair Idris as a fitting finale for what I hoped would be an enjoyable few days. I had brought my tent and enough to eat for a few days so my bag was a little on the heavy side as I set off along the road towards Maentrowg where I left the busy A road and climbed uphill along a little lane before shortly afterwards setting off along the Wales coastal path and then trying to find my way to the dam at the outlet of Llyn Trawsfynydd from where I could finally reach the open mountainside. At least that was the plan but my usual route finding skills were once again to the fore and I went wrong almost immediately and I found myself at a dead end from where I had to backtrack for a fair bit before I could once again regain the course. On the plus side, the weather was pretty good with the odd spit of rain about but nothing too much and it was quite warm and muggy. Even here in these low open hills the views were lovely back along the tidal valley floor whose sides were blanketed in deciduous woodland. To the north the hills rose ever higher where the "giants" further north could be seen with their tops still shrouded in cloud. A long and sometimes convoluted trek eventually saw me arrive on the lake shore just east of the dam which rose above a deep wood gorge. Finally I was ready to strike out for Craig y Gwynt some two kilometers away. That was if I could find a way through the vast swathe of bracken that barred the way. Thankfully a very fine bike track cut right through until it reached some woods near the shore after nearly a kilometer from where I was able to start climbing on steep mostly grassy slopes.
Looking north from near the start

The first job was to cross all that to get to the hills

Moelwyn Bach

Wooded gorge below the dam

From the first top,,,the way ahead

Disused nuclear power station nestles comfortably in the landscape...not!

Even though I was only at just over 200 meters I had walked over eight kilometers and I must have climbed over 400 meters so I was well into my day before I even stepped into the wild. And even though this first top was only 431 meters it was a rough and rugged place that was only to prove a foretaste of what was in store for the next couple of days. On the plus side the weather was just getting better and better and now blue sky and sunshine were the dominant features and even the summit of Snowden was now clear. Not wanting to waste a minute of my good fortune I set off across the rocky/boggy undulating ground towards the next higher top Moel y Gyrafolen at 535 mtrs. From here on some steep rocky drops and rises started to bar progress and some care had to be taken on some of the steps. It was never dull or boring and there was seldom a lengthy stretch where progress was easy. Eventually after a few ever higher and more rugged tops I arrived at the highest point so far Moel Ysgyfarnogod 623 mtrs ( even as I read these names I cannot begin to think of how they are pronounced). Progress got ever more difficult from here as what wasn't covered in rock was covered in heather or billberry with the occasional section of bracken thrown in for good measure. The ground was mostly trackless or at least it was difficult to find and stick to what faint trails there were in this rough ground. Here as well on the crest of the (for want of a better word) ridge the wind was quite strong and sometimes a little care had to be taken on awkward spots (especially with the heavier bag) lest it unbalance one at just the wrong moment. As I said progress was a little on the slow side but I wasn't worried as I had everything I needed on my back and time was my friend as I could choose to settle whenever and wherever I wanted.

Beautiful views towards Porthmadog

Snowdon makes an appearance


Starting to get a bit rocky in places
After several more tops I reached Bwlch Gwylim where I headed in a southeasterly direction towards the little lochlan  of Llyn Twrglas. Around now I was getting a bit weary and my mind started to turn to finding a good spot to pitch my tent for the night. I was also beginning to realize that it mightn't be all that easy to find one as the ground was getting rougher and wetter if anything. My tent was another consideration ( an Alpkit Delta) as it really isn't the best in the wind and I was beginning to regret leaving my Voyager tent at home to save a kilo on my back. This little lake was surrounded by boggy ground and the wind was whipping across it so headed for the nearby LLyn Prefed and while this looked more promising the sheltered spot I needed wasn't to be seen so I elected to continue. A rough tough 2 kilometers followed during which I passed some fairly impressive rock bands that would be of much interest to some of the "rock jocks" I know before I spotted Llyn Morwynion nestling below me. On the northeastern side of this teardrop shaped lake there looked to be a likely camping spot so I backtracked a ways until I found an easier way down to it, all the while praying that the little patch of what looked like grass wasn't actually boggy moss in disguise. It was with considerable relief that I stepped onto dry firm ground beside the waters edge and gratefully dropped my bag for the evening. It was now almost 18.30 and I was a bit weary and hungry as well. The wind wasn't too bad here and I was confident that the tent would be okay. I always love arriving at a new camping spot and the next while was a busy blur of sorting out my home for the night and getting some food on the go. As I had only managed a scanty couple of hours of dozing on the ferry overnight I was anxious to catch up on some sleep so I wasted little time after dinner before ensconcing my myself in my sleeping bag and setting off for dreamland. At least that was the plan until it transpired that the spot wasn't quite as sheltered as I thought and throughout the long long night my tent was pummeled by ever increasingly strong gusts that at times threatened to either flatten it or lift some of the pegs (which actually happened a few times). This coupled with some squally rain ensured I got little or no sleep throughout the night.

Plenty of ups and downs yet to come

Impressive walls to match the landscape

Typical tough walking ground

Some good rock climbing to be had here

Please let that be a patch of dry grass

Home not so sweet home.
Monday August 3rd;

Between gusts of wind I actually managed to doze a little bit around dawn and at just after 6am I decided to get up and face the day. I was bone weary but there seemed little point in staying in my rickety home so I had a quick wash in  the lake and set about making my porridge. The clear skies of the previous day were gone and cloud scudded across the rocks little more that seventy meters above. Still it was dry and I enjoyed a nice bite to eat. Just as I set about making a brew the rain arrived and I hurriedly retreated into my tent. I don't know if it was the sound of the rain or what but the next thing I knew it was almost 10 am so guess exhaustion had finally had its way. I was quickly up to finish making my brew and I was packed up and on the move by 10.30. It was a double blessing to have had the extra rest as the cloud had lifted a fair bit and the top of Rhinog Fawr could now occasionally be seen. I climbed back up to point 490 mtrs and made my way down to the track that crosses through Bwlch Tryddiad from where another clear trail wend its way around and up to Llyn Du. It was nice to finally be on a defined track after the predominantly trackless ground of the previous day and it continued all the way to the summit 720 mtrs. The wind was definitely stronger today and as the views weren't extensive I had little reason to linger so I set off for the next peak, Rhinog Fach at 712mtrs. There wasn't a track marked on the map so, fearing (if the ground of the previous day was to be an indicator) that there would be considerable rock barriers in my way I set off in a southwesterly direction where gully/fault line headed southeast towards the pass some 370 meters below. This proved to be somewhat of an error as once the cloud cleared and I got lower to get a better view I could see it would have been easier to head east and then south from the summit. Still I got down all right and now all I had to do was follow the trail to the summit 360 meters above which passed surprisingly quickly.
Looking back from the slopes of Rhinog Fawr

Looking ahead to Rhinog Fach



In a perverse sort of way the going was easier today than yesterday even though the climbs were longer and the ground higher. Rough pathless ground really saps the energy both physical and mental so I was I guess more relaxed today. I followed the impressive stone wall (one of many magnificent constructs throughout the area) to the gap just 170 mtrs below where I replenished my water supply from the picturesque Llyn Hywel. Above to my right I could see a very nice looking ridge that would make a very nice line to the summit. Ahead of me the path continued to what would be my highest point of the day Y Llethr 756 mtrs where the nature of the terrain changed considerably. Gone was the rough boulder strewn rocky ground and replacing it was more gentle peat uplands.It made for a wonderful change and it was nice to stretch the legs on this easy ground. The weather had remained mainly dry with just occasional short bursts of rain and the cloud stayed predominantly clear of the tops. I was really enjoying myself and I think I benefited from the unplanned extra sleep earlier. I had covered only about six kilometers but had climbed almost 1000 mtrs but I was now buoyed by the knowledge that almost all the climbing was over. The next few kilometers to my final summit Diffwys 750 mtrs was a delight of easy ground and great views and passed all too quickly. All that remained now was to get down towards the broad tidal Afon Mawddach river far below and find myself another place to call home for the night. After my experiences of the previous night I was resolved to find a low and sheltered place tonight. Before I could do that however I had to get down. I followed a wall/fence down a fair ways before I set off down steeper ground so I could join a trail in the valley to the east. I quickly found myself negotiating horrible leg breaking ground of rocks covered by bracken and heather which really slowed progress. It was with great relief that I finally reached the track and I ambled down until it reached a road at Hendre forion where I turned east intending to pass over the nearby hill with its disused mine to reach the next glen which I could follow right down to the river. I would then see how far I would go that evening. Shortly after turning east I came across an excellent stop to pitch my tent which was sheltered and alongside a stream so I decided not to pass it up even though it would make for a longer day tomorrow. It proved an excellent choice and I enjoyed a peaceful evening followed by a long much needed nights sleep.
Easier ground ahead

Looking back at Rhinog Fach with the interesting ridge on it.

Suddenly lovely easy walking

Towards Diffwys

All I had to do is get down to the valley

Pretty but difficult ground

And more to come

Cadair Idris offering promise for tomorrow

Beautiful countryside

A more sheltered home tonight

Nice evening sun

Tuesday August 4th;

Well rested I arose to the worst weather day thus far. Strong winds drove frequent showers of heavy rain and the cloud looked settled at around the 500 meter mark. Ah well perhaps it would improve. I managed to eat in a dry spell and almost managed to get packed before some heavy rain arrived again. I followed the wet boggy trail up a 100 mtrs or so over bleak ground and descended to a delightful hazel and oak wood and followed a little lane until it joined the A496. After the seclusion of the previous couple of days the busy road was not somewhere I wanted to linger but thankfully respite was literally just across it as I joined the little road that led to the delightful Penmenpool Bridge which I had to pay a hefty 20p to cross. There is a trail that leaves the road from here and climbs up into the woods and eventually joins the road that leads to Kings hostel. This is a bit longer and has a bit extra climbing so I opted instead to walk the two and a bit kilometers on the road. This was also a mistake as the road is pretty busy and has no margins so I often had to edge to the sides as two cars passed. Thankfully it was soon over and I turned onto the lane to Kings and the trail that led towards my final destination for this trip Cadair Idris. I had often heard about this popular mountain and had resolved to visit it some time ago but alas today it was completely blanketed by cloud. Still I was here now and despite the weather I was going to climb it anyway. I followed the trail as far as the hostel and another trail led to Ty Nant which is the starting point of the pony track that leads to the summit. It is well engineered lower down and heavily cairned higher up and as the name would suggest it offers an easy route to the top. I wish I could be more descriptive of the landscape but it was heavily veiled from view and I was too busy keeping my balance in the strong wind that carried the kind of rain that sometimes gives you a clatter in the head even through the hood.

Beautiful wooden surface and booth

I just can't seem to escape the railways.

Who said enterprise is dead

Even the sheep had more sense than to be out in the weather

High summer on Cadair Idris

Beautiful once again below the cloud

That's better
 Before I even reached the start of the pony path I had covered about 9 kilometers but the four kilometers that led to the 893 mtr summit passed quickly and I arrived at the very civilized hour of 13.00. The only creatures I had for company in this very inhospitable spot were a couple of sheep that had the good sense to take respite in the summit shelter. I didn't disturb them and left immediately to begin my descent down the trail that drops to Llyn y Gadair. This is a horrible mish mash of loose scree and rubble that requires care to safely navigate and I wouldn't recommend it as a way up. That said I didn't get anything except the most ghostly glimpses of the rock cliffs that are to be found on the northern flanks of the mountain so perhaps the views would compensate. Soon enough the grey waters of the lake appeared alongside me and easier ground followed to the lower lake Llyn Gafr. Here a very swollen stream had to be crossed but it was do-able by the outlet of the lake. Shortly thereafter a much more considerable barrier was reached another river. I was beginning to think that this would prove too much of an obstacle but after walking a few hundred meters upstream where there were a couple of grassy islands mid stream I was able to carefully cross. It was something of a comfort to have my walking poles to use as balance for a couple of the steps. After that there were no more nasty surprises and the track offered lovely views to the wooded valleys below. The weather was also on the up and by the time I was on the road and walking the three kilometers into the pretty village of Dolgellau the sun had made an appearance and down here the winds were gentle.  It felt great to change out of my sodden clothes in the village public convenience. While I waited for my bus connection to Bangor I was able to reflect on the previous few days. I had gotten to see some new areas of the wonderful Snowdonia national park and over this time I almost had the hills exclusively to myself. The Rhinogs are wilder and rougher than their bigger neighbours further north. Cadair Idris I won't comment on until I get the chance to actually see what it is like close up. It only brought home to me just how much more there is the this area than the 3000ers. I must explore some more. Now all that remained was the bus-train-ferry-train home.