Friday 17 September 2010

Climbing wall

   I went to the Killarney climbing wall last night for the first time of the new season. I climbed fairly ok, a bit like you would expect I suppose. Perhaps it was because it was the first time in ages that I met most of the crowd but it felt like hard work. Maybe I will rediscover the fun in it. I must take the boots and crampons back soon and get a bit of dry tooling in.

Thursday 9 September 2010

Snowdonia September 2010






 Saturday 4th,

Neil leading pitch two
I headed over to Wales last weekend for a spot of climbing. This time I took all my rock climbing gear and I had arranged to meet an English guy called Neil Nand. I travelled overnight on Stena ferries and arrived by train in Betws y Coed at 6am. A short walk to the campsite and I pitched my tent and lay down for a spot of shuteye. Neil had arrived the night before and rang me at 7.30 and we met. We had breakfast and decided to climb Amphitheatre Buttress on Pen yr Hegli Du in the Carneddu. The morning promised good weather and we drove to Tal y Bont on the B 5106 and turned left up a narrow steep road to arrive at a large open plateau. We continued to the end of the road where there is good parking and walked on the good track past Lyn Eigiau reservoir with it's broken dam walls into Cwm Eigiau. This is a large U shaped valley which contains a disused slate quarry. Having passed this you are facing straight at the imposing crags on the northern side of Pen yr Hegli Du. Amphitheatre buttress is on the left of a large gully. It is a full 1000 feet long and is graded at VDiff.



Amphitheatre Buttress

There is a steep climb up to the base of the climb and Neil found it tough going. When we arrived there was two other parties before us. We rigged up and waited for our turn. We decided to do alternate leads and I took the first pitch. I also chose to climb in my boots as opposed to rock shoes as I would see this type of route as more a training exercise for Alpine climbing. The first pitch starts very straight forwardly up laid back rock until you arrive at a large notch where you have to move left on to another slab. This is quite awkward and involves some delicate moves. Up this slab and you arrive at a good stance with a spike belay, we were off. Neil led up the second pitch without any bother and we then came to the best section of the route. This is a long steep slab with adequate holds and loads of exposure. Up around a block and left onto the slab which it climbed via a series of cracks up to a ledge with a thread belay. You are now well up the crag and the situation is great. Steep drops in all directions, warm dry rock and great views meant that I was really enjoying the day. This is what I went there for.

Neil climbing the slabs




Shortly thereafter we came to the so called crux. This involves climbing up and around a short corner over to a large stance. This passed very easily and is very easily protected. A couple of more short rock sections and we came to a long scrambly section. This we moved together on until we came to a very narrow arret which I crossed and protected with slings. Above this we continued to move together, using friction belays where necessary. In this way we soon reached the top. There was a group of walkers there who were taking pictures of the climbers and seemed impressed with the effort. After a good bite to eat we continued up and over Carnedd Llewelyn (at 1064mtrs the second highest in Wales) and a long easy descent across the broad expanse of Gleddrfford and along Cefn Tal-Llyn-Eigiau and back to the car. We were both glad to sit into the car but were well satisfied with the day.

Sunday 5th,


The forecast for today was good and after a good nights rest we arose quite optimistic for the day ahead. After a very leisurely morning we headed for Tryfan and the target for the day was First Pinnacle Rib on its east face. This is another VDiff route and 185mtrs long. I was really looking forward to this as it is supposed to one of the best routes at the grade in Wales. Unfortunately the day was showing signs of deterioration and the air was pregnant with moisture. Still we set off up the steep climb and gained the heather terrace. Neil was really struggling on the steep ground so progress was slow. Still this was no bad thing as when I arrived at the base of the climb the threatened rain arrived. Very quickly the rock turned as slick as ice and the decision not to proceed was made.






We retreated down to the car. As the forecast for the following day was really poor Neil decided to return to Salisbury. We said our goodbyes at the campsite and I went for a 9k run up and over a 700ft hill to get rid of the excess energy. By now the day had cleared up nicely and I had a pleseant evening at the campsite.





Monday 6th,
I was almost afraid to stick my head outside the tent this morning, however the promised bad weather had not as yet arrived.I enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and wandered into town with the intention of catching the sherpa bus to the Ogwen Valley and climbing the Glyderri. After waiting for a full hour it became apparent that the bus wasn't going to come so I stuck out my thumb. Lo and behold the first car stopped. As we progressed up towards Capel Curig my eyes were drawn to the lovely flanks of Moel Siabod. A sudden change of plan I asked to be dropped off and headed its direction. Easy walking up a metalled road led to a disused quarry, on past this into ever wilder ground under the imposing southeast face and I soon came to a large Cwm with a nice ridge at its rear which led directly to the summit. Some nice scrambling along this ridge and I was soon at the summit.




Here I met a gentleman dressed in the style of the early climbers replete with green tweed plus fours and a flat cap. You just have to love the English and their eccentricities. I decided to walk back to Betws y Coed across the vast expanse of moor into the forest and down to the campsite. This went well until I reached the low point before the incline up to the woods. Here I had to go through a marshy section with bog myrtle and deer grass. This was very tiring and I was relieved to reach the higher ground. This however proved a false dawn as when I crossed a fence I entered virgin ground with chest high heather, grass and scrub which was exhausting to traverse. After a few hundred meters of this I decided to head for the forest. This was going from the frying pan to the fire and proved the worst yet to get through. It was with considerable relief that I eventually came to a road and I relaxed for the remainder of the walk back. The day had remained dry but shortly after reaching the tent it started raining. I had to cook inside the tent and it rained right through until I went to sleep at around midnight. As I had no climbing partner for the following day and the forcast was again iffy I decided to return home the following morning. Still although things didn't work out perfect I am really looking forward to my next visit.

Monday 30 August 2010

Primroses Ridge Carrauntoohil





Getting ready

Frank

As the weather looked promising and being off for the weekend I contacted my good friend Frank Kluzniac and suggested we give Primroses ridge on Carrauntoohil a go. This is generally accepted as being the hardest route up the mountain and is graded as VS. I did it a couple of years ago with Tim Long and that day he led the route. I was anxious to do it again and this time to lead it myself. So Frank and I met in Killarney and headed for Lisliebane on Saturday. There was some cloud on the tops but it wasn't really threathening rain when we left the carpark at 11.10. There was a large number of people heading for the mountain, most in Tshirts and runners. The unpreparedness of people (many with small children) never ceases to amaze me. Anyway off we set and after a leisurely walk were at the base of the climb at 13.10. Here we donned our climbing gear and suitably suited and booted we began.

             It wasn't exactly the most auspicious start. I almost immediately came to an awkward step with only sparse grass and heather to pull up on. I really didn't fancy it and was contemplating coming back down. I moved to my right and saw a line up clean rock where I was able to place some protection. Having found this we were off. We made steady progress on mixed ground and fairly soon came to the crux of the route. This is a vertical face of good rock, about 20meters high with an overhanging roof which requires a delicate move to exit over. It is well protected but is still a daunting spot. The drops from the ridge are serious so the exposure is considerable. Still there was no point in looking at it too long and I started up in a determined fashion. It looks worse than it is and I was soon at the roof. Here I placed a double bit of protection and clenching the buttocks I went for it. It is a sensational situation, leaning back on fairly small holds one is very conscious of the air beneath. A swift reconnescence of the holds available and a couple of moves and I was over. There is a lovely sling belay  to be had here and I quickly secured myself. I leant out and took a couple of pictures with trembling hands and enjoyed my spectacular surroundings. Frank being a really solid climber made short work of any difficulties and quickly joined me at the belay.



View down

We didn't delay too long and continued up surmounting any difficulties easily. There is an awful lot of loose rock in places on the route and at times it is really hard to find something solid to pull on . We arrived at the junction with Howling Ridge and continued from there moving together. We passed another party who was pitching the end of Howling. We completed the slog to the summit and enjoyed a very welcome bite to eat, well satisfied with our efforts. Decent was via O'Sheas gully. An outing with Frank is always good fun and we were soon saying our goodbyes at Killarney. I think a future trip to Wales or Glencoe is called for.
Side view of ridge
Starting up the crux
View from hanging belay